Fantastic! Thanks so much. I’m tired of not ever being able to get a hold of the modified cases (how can these be so hard to mass produce?!!) and your tips are great Sir. Very informative and descriptive. Thank you!
The distance from the bullet (ogive) to the barrel (crown or Lands & Groves) is important. Where is a gap, come call it clutch. There is no resistance to the explosion. When the ogive hits the crown pressure spikes. The gap is measured for an example .054 for a 22-250. 50 BMG .020. You run a test to see what your rifle likes. Shoot groups of 5 or so at different measurements. The tightest group is you number for that bullet. BULLETS have different profiles so you can not measure to the tip of the bullet when changing BULLETS. So you can not buy like a wildcat. So as part of my hobby I make my own. I had to learn. I hope this helps.
Nice video...thanks for sending me the link on Facebook....very helpful....I have drilled and tapped plenty of aluminum, brass and stainless Doing Custom glass work in So.Cal....your Video gave me the insight and confidence to make my own modified case
In circumstances where I don't want cutting oil getting all over, I wipe automotive grease on the tap. Best to pull it out every revolution to wipe the chips/grease off. Re-apply grease and go back at it. End up with a nice clean tapped hole and clean everything.
You didn't discuss how to open the case mouth after resizing the brass. I have found that using brass that is not resized is sometimes hard to push into the chamber
Great video Mr. George, thank you! I just bought a 6x47 (wildcat of the 6.5x47) and will be doing this at home with the help of your video. I've read where using a once fired case (not resized) will give you a more accurate reading for the jump, plus modified cases are hard to find for this round. Thanks!
A good video, and thanks for sharing. Am i right in thinking you said a "sized case"? If so, then a factory built bullet head will not slide down inside the neck so the gauge won't be able to push the bullet head out so the Ogive touches the rifling.(If the bullet is long enough obviously) Do this 4 or 5 times, measure the average then seat your bullet heads accordingly. With that in mind, I would have thought a "fire formed" case, and the use of a decapping die would be what is needed. If that makes sense?
issue is binding in the chamber on the case body. it needs to be sized an shoulder bumped. then use an expander die for mouth. or spend the $ an get a body die for fire formed case.
Thanks for the video! I just checked the case length of Lapua full length sized brass and the hornady modified case is .0064" shorter. I know that I could still use it and do math with each use for these cases, but I would rather not. You didn't mention how to relax or size up the neck to allow the bullet to slide concentric and with ease. A friend of mine who is a reloader and who I would consider a genius, mentioned sacrificing one of the heavy bullets (previously weighed and sorted) By clamping small vice grips to a seated bullet on the the ojive and working the brass while in your woodblock or in the drill head, until it alows minimal neck tension and allows an unsacrificed bullet to move freely. Anyone else used this or another method that worked well.
Thanks for the response Elijah. With my mentors help, I have figured out that fireforming is best for getting the neck expanded and keeps all dimensions perfectly concentric to the specific chamber it was formed to. I pretty much threw the first attempted brass away. I didn't bother with making another because the Hornady modified case was (ifI remember correctly) .003" off from full length size. When I have my next batch fire-formed, I will make a modified case and properly develop the load using Dan Newberry's method.
@@miketipton1456 , you’re welcome. GunBlue490 posts a lot on RU-vid. He is a wealth of knowledge and information. His posts are free. He talks a lot of sense. I’ve been reloading off and on for 20 plus years. This guy on RU-vid is spot on with everything he talks about. Many would pay him for his knowledge. They are quite long. But lots to learn. Check him out. On a side note: I’ve developed a plastic version of the rod. It fits and glued into the primer pocket. You only have to drill out the primer pocket with a 3.5mm drill bit. As the rod holds only one brass case its specific to that gun. But it’s a quarter of the price of anything else currently on the market. I’m selling it in NZ early next year. Cheers
I learned a lot from this video and for that, I thank you Sir! I really appreciate the time you took to make this video and share the knowledge. However, I do have a few comments. If you just don't want the bother, go to Hornady's website and search for modified case. You will find an address to send Hornady two pieces of fired brass to, along with $15 and they will drill and tap it for you and mail it back in around two weeks. Now having said that, if you want to do it yourself and you want to do it for multiple calibers and save a bunch of money in the process, you can order the drill bits you need with these links (I get nothing from Amazon, I am just sharing what I had to buy to do this myself with the instruction I received here). Here are the links for what you will need and what it will cost: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A18HF1S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4PSBA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 I do believe it is much easier to apply a little oil (doesn't have to be cutting oil, just any kind of oil) to the tap before you begin the tapping process. I tapped mine in half the time we see here by hand. Thank you again Mr. George for this video and your instruction!
He’s making a modified case. He uses brass sized specifically for his gun then he’s able to measure how deep to set the bullet when he loads his ammo. This isn’t how I would do it but it seems to work for him.
@@johnnybwildered505 It's how I have been doing it, and it works fine for me , except he didn't address how he gets the proper neck tension to hold the bullet but not being to tight, i sized it down , then found a proper size bit to slightly ream it out , works perfect
wrong George. saw one person use the Hornady bullet puller. puts the bullet into the bullet puller and tightens it down. then brings the case up into the bullets. doing it till the bullet is loose. Trying this this weekend. he had no trouble getting the bullet to move in and out
