The one thing I needed to see they did not show. 😢 There's a power wire going through the passenger side fire wall they did not show that being disconnected therefore on my engine install I don't have any idea where it goes to. I thought it would go to the fuse box but there's only one positive wire that goes there. I've looked everywhere and it's like a freaking ghost wire but I have no dash, headlights nor will it start and I'm guessing that one wire is the key to make that happen. Anywho thanks for nothing, but for what you did show you did a good job, I was just waiting for them to pop that wire when they dropped the engine however they ffw through that part
Hi @ubergear5979 This vid resonated. I have a '65 MK2 with a head gasket leak toward the back as well as the pushrod tube leaks on 6 of my 8 tubes. I don't have an uncle who makes nice tools like yours did for this purpose. What do you recommend for guys like me with this problem? I could buy new tubes, but I'll still have to flare their ends but won't have a tool for that. Any ideas? Thanks! JD
idk if you need it, but Amazon sells a product that you wire in, and it tricks the car into thinking both struts are there and working properly. Bout 13 bucks.
Just changed over my transfer case fluid and a nice cheap tool to get at the fill plug is to just use the middle section of a 3/8 drive universal. Also known as a swivel attachment. They're polished so they slide in super easy, they're small so not much of a pain to get in with a pair of Needle nose pliers, and a 1/2 inch open end wrench works perfect. Cheers!
I noticed you put the wrong fluid in the transfer case. You're supposed to use AC Delco 4044 transfer case fluid. The gm part number is 888 something. It's basically dexron III trans fluid I've heard. The major difference is viscosity. The AC Delco 4044 fluid is heavier than the trak 2 stuff and is designed for the friction disks in the borg warner 4477 transfer case in these cars. Super easy mistake to make and by all means I'm not sure if it that matters, but changing the fluid is cheaper than buying an 800 dollar transfer case.
First attempt at replacing my MK3 67 Spitfire head gasket and these videos were really helpful, good work and thanks! BTW same issue with small oil leak at the back of the engine, plus a weep on the push rod side (bolts seemed too loose under the cam).
Awesome video I have a Pontiac and when u turn the key u can hear ticking ..wonder if that was normal until I heard it on ur car if u know y or what ticks n would like to share I’d appreciate it 🤙🏼
Thank you guys very much for uploading your videos. I don’t think I would have tried to replace the head gasket on my 2001 Deville. I took the engine out through the top in my garage. I just removed the front head. My number one cylinder was pumping exhaust into my coolant. I have 21 videos so far.
I’m removing my 2001 Deville engine now. I was wondering how did the power steering line get to the driver side of the rack. I have 6 videos and the motor is still in the car.
You have to want a cargo net really bad to go through this pain in the a$$ installation process. Actually an OEM net can be installed on existing clips shown at 21:47. All you have to do is install the 2 lower clips (P# 08U20-TVA-100) and you are good to go with the OEM cargo net (P# 08L96-TVA-100). Just sayin.
I had an 02 Deville like this one and besides being a bit leaky the engine was good. The problem was it just had a lot of little things that made it not worth messing with plus it was always in the back of my mind I could never trust that engine it was always going to be a ticking time bomb.
A little late to the party but you do not want to touch any electrical connection with your finger because of natural skin oil. You also want to clean the fingers in the plugs. You should always clean the file spotlessly or use a new fine fingernail file board. Creating more pressure by raising the solder is a bad diagnosis and a poor fix. The solder did not evaporate over the years. The contact points simple oxidized. SprayClean and Q-Tips first, then fine polish and solder LAST.
I love the engineering of Hondas, but having to uninstall your trunk in order to install a cargo net definitely shows a lack of foresight by the engineers.
This was a pretty good video except it does not mention removing the wiring harness that wraps around the engine in various directions. For what it’s worth, the harness is most easily removed after the car body is lifted off the engine. This allows easier access to all the sensors, grounds, etc. I took off the front motor mount to get to the plugs underneath easier. A floor Jack under the engine/trans connector place allowed me to lift the engine after the motor mount bolts were removed so the motor mount and bracket could be removed as one piece.
