From personal experience, I ALWAYS cut and lift all my signals if possible (trust me, any bypassing of the gene 1 board taught me this, and the same for gene 2s to a lesser degree) cutting the dins traces for from r,g,b,c-sync are 5v are pretty good ways to just not worry about any signal pickup
Sorry if I'm dumb for asking, so SNS 1Chip 02 is a one chip? I ask because I see another video of SNS 1Chip 01 is the 1Chip. Also for the Super Famicom you just need that silver box ? I cant read the print on mine where yours says SHVC but mine looks like yours.
I don't get 9v right at the input jack pin like you did. Does that mean I have a short? I've been tearing my hair out for days trying to get power to a Genesis 2. The power supply reads 9v output when tested there. I just get nothing to the console when plugged in, though.
If I take what you say to be true, then yeah that kind of makes me think you have a short on the board. However, make sure you're measuring in the right place and also make sure your power supply is the correct polarity. On a Genesis 2 the center of the plug should be positive and the outside is negative.
I have continuity at all 3 solder points at the power jack, can't get no power thru it. Power supply shows 9-10v. Think I need new power jack? I do get about 5v at the voltage reg, but idk how, considering I can't get power past the input jack
It sounds like you're not measuring it quite right. When you say you get 5V at the regulator, is that the input or output side of the regulator? (Many of the boards are helpfully labeled I G O for input, ground, output).
Was just pillaging at the junkyard tripping on why mine was so different on my 95 to the 99 that is here,same bracket too haha thanks so much man makes clear sense now !!
Thanks for your guide. I am doing the Neptune mod using Zaxour board and VA1.8 board. Also using HD retro-vision cable. I am only getting sound and no video out. I followed Zaxour's guide specific to the model VA 1.8 board. On Zaxour's board S75 , 2, C, E, and sync are soldered in. On the VA 1.8 Pins 20-23 lifted. RGB lines are sourced from the bottom of the VA board as you shown in your video. What is not similar to common 3BP installs for the neptune mod is that the board is not directly soldered to the main VA board. I know the neptune mod (combing 32x with model 2) is not widely known to many so finding any info on this very hard. The only guide I am using is this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oz_8-sqxLjs.html But he skims through many of the intricate steps I am so far getting very clear sound. I guess am having a sync issue? What do you think? I am willing to send it in to someone who can try and diagnose it.
SEGA put a black sticker over the back of Sonic & Knuckles in North America since they wanted to use the same cart design everywhere. They molded in “Made in Japan” and had to change that for NAFTA compliance. I guess final assembly was done in North America so they didn’t want to pay the import duties. ;)
I would guess the reason this happened with Sonic & Knuckles specifically is that it had its own specially-shaped cart shell, so it's not like they could just use them for other games. Also it's one of the few games where the cart shape is the same across regions--for most games, US/EU and Asia/Japan have very different and incompatible cart shells.
@@rfmerrill yes, it was genuinely made in Japan for most of the world but for North America they had them assembled in Mexico to qualify for NAFTA import tax exemptions. Because they used the same shells, they needed to sticker over the “Made in Japan” bit.
I just installed this mod on my VA1.8, and drove myself nuts figuring all this out for myself. Great, comprehensive video! Only major difference I made was keeping composite by trimming and masking that pin on the din before install. Keep composite without feeding it into the 3BP.
@@rfmerrill Yep. I haven't noticed a difference pre/post install in the brightness, but I wouldn't recommend the change if you are aiming for perfect video.
@@QuantumKraken Hey, I still haven't made the mod but I know now that I want to leave the composite working. What you meant what trimming and not connecting the composite pin that comes out of the din? Like not connect it to the 3BP board? If so then what other steps do I ignore? Doesn't that mean I need to leave some components as be? Sorry for so much info, I just want to gather info and just already move on with the install :D
Like you mentioned, there's no solid place to go for this info. I'd love to do this mod for like 3 or 4 consoles, but its the most daunting mod I've done (aside RGHing a 360) all because there's no guide.
1CHIP has sharper video but glitches in some games (only a handful are unplayable, notably Super Turrican). Aside from that, the other revisions just vary slightly in audio/video quality and reliability for the most part.
Making it CSYNC is pretty dumb idea, do not disconect composite video because CSYNC is not a part of SCART standard (well it is for SECAM, but not for PAL TVs), it does not make the picture any better if you use a good cable but it will cause compatibility issues on plenty of TVs, especially on CRTs!!
I didn't design this mod. The 3BP by design disables composite video since the RGB lines get disconnected from the encoder. If you want to keep composite video you can use Zaxour's updated 3BP board, which this video doesn't cover.
@@rfmerrill I went with some written tutorial kinda blind as long as composite video line is not cut it will work as a sync - I mean if you try using AV you will only see a very dark faded picture but it is enough for a TV to detect it as AV signal and it works no problem :D
@give_me_my_nick_back Um.. but if you don't have RGB going into the encoder, what it's outputting is basically csync. It's not any more of a compliant composite video signal anyway. A properly attenuated csync signal is basically equivalent to a monochrome composite signal with a solid black image. If there are compatibility issues with the signal that the 3BP puts out on the composite pin, I'd be interested to know about them.
@@give_me_my_nick_backThe more important thing is that you don't want the 3BP and the encoder to be "fighting" over the composite output. You have to disconnect one or the other.
@@rfmerrill My educated guess is it's an issue caused by s-video auto detection, s-video was never meant to be used with scart, it has always been a hack and some "smart" IC might be using the video/sync pin to determinate if you feed s-video or RGB. Since I'd rather avoid people complaining about the console no longer working with their CRT TVs, I avoid CSync. As for the mod, the tutorial calls for the composite vido line going out of the original encoder to be cut off but if you keep it as it it will still produce some week signal that gets detected as a propper composite video by a tv solving the uncompatibility, if you cut that pin then you will get a CSync. CSync was required by the original SECAM SCART spec but PAL SCART has replaced it with composite vido so it's officially out of spec.
I get about 10.6v on one side of the diode but nothing on the other side of the diode near voltage regulator. Obviously voltage regulator is reading 0 on all 3 pins as well. Thoughts?
I got a VA1 that I was planning to do this mod too but your video is scaring me. Your recommendations are different then all my research and now I'm lost
@@Fahrenheit38 It's really not *that* hard. The problem is mostly that since it's a community project, everyone comes up with their own method of installing it so it's hard to just pick a single guide to show people.
Thanks for the info. I bought a VA1.8 pre modded & when using a Csync scart cable the color red wasn't there & the power jack was wobbling. SInce doing a resolder on the power jack I no longer have video or sound, but the power LED does come on. I made sure to remove the rf shield as well. I'm not sure what to do at this point with this model, but I might try it on a different model.
Great video, but more than a few will get lost when you say “negative lead to ground” if they don’t know what you mean by “check the voltages.” They might not know that ground is essentially everywhere… or even which is the negative lead on their inherited or free meter. Might be good to explain that almost any plated screw holes or shielded switch/port is going to be connected to ground.
@@rfmerrill I totally understand. Just saying that we might take it for granted that people know these things but if they don’t know what we mean by “check the voltages” then there’s a good chance they don’t know this. I was specifically recalling someone who I had to walk through this with on a Neo Geo AES. :)
Do you need to add 5.6k pull ups to RGB if you've removed R62, R63, and R64? I ended up adding the 5.6k pull ups and removed R62, R63, and R64 without realising this, and wasn't sure if this would cause issues? If so I'll remove them. Or maybe cutting the RGB traces would be a workaround if I wanted to leave the 5.6k pull ups that I added, since this would bypass R50, R51, and R52... I think? Edit: I didn't need the 5.6k pull-up resistors, so I removed them. I talked to Tianfeng on Twitter about it and he said it was alright to not cut the traces and let the SMD 562 pull-up resistors (R50, R51, and R52) work as normal.
R62-R64 are series resistors that connect the RGB lines to the encoder. As you noted, R50-R52 are the pull-ups and they're connected before the series resistors, so they're still in circuit if you remove R62-R64.
@@rfmerrill Also, this in unrelated, but out of curiosity would you happen to know what a 47uF capacitor connected to the AV on a PAL VA0 is for? I left it in circuit not knowing what it's purpose was. There doesn't appear to be any documentation on it either, that I could find at least. It might be specific only to PAL systems as well. It's connected to a ground pin and to the 5V pin on the output. I think I remember seeing some people leaving it in for the 3BP, but I honestly don't know what it's for. It's not restricted to just the VA0, as this video shows a PAL VA1 for comparison: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DQMSMsZkiZE.html Any help would be appreciated, I'm currently just leaving it alone for now.
@@LaminGaming I was wandering to I have worked on many pal master system 2's now and they all have had that capacitor there to and not on the ones I got from japan. I just decided to removed it on the last bypass mod I did on a va1 and the console was randomly going black and white so I put it back on and it stopped doing it but I also re-soldered the 3 rgb veers just in case why I had it open even though I had good joins. so don't no but was the first time I removed it. Did you remove it and did you have any problems?
Whenever your stuck in the elevator, do not try to escape yourself as the elevator might unexpectedly move due to safety controll failure, also american elevators you can surf elevators with the door open as confirmed on roblox
It's one of the capacitors highlighted in the Mega Amp install instructions, because the Mega Amp (at least some versions) allows for mono audio out in addition to stereo. With the 3BP you usually don't bother with mono because most of the cables for the model 2 that use mono audio also use composite (I think the only cables that use mono audio with the model 2 DIN are the RF modulator and the mono AV cable which may have only come with the 32X). I don't think it matters if you remove it or leave it for a 3BP install. You've already disconnected the inputs to the mixing circuit so there won't be any mono audio out anyway.
Hi Sir, I have a Genesis 2 VA4 with Triple Bypass. My Scart cable works with it but not my YPbPr Component cable of Retrogamingcables. Is it because I cut the trace between encoder and c-sync out? I don't understand what is wrong
I'm guessing your SCART cable uses the CSYNC pin, while the component cable gets sync from the composite video pin. Your composite video pin may not be driven.
Great video, thanks for the tips. I follow the video instruction from Dubesinhower. Everything seems good except i notice a humming noise, not sure what the deal is. I did replace all the caps. But since i have a M2 VA0, did not find much info. Any idea what can be causing that noise? Thanks
Lots of things can cause a humming noise. My first guess would usually be that your cable's outer shell is not making good contact with the AV port's ground, but that tends to be more of a problem on the aftermarket DIN ports rather than the one the model 2 came with.
I’ve got a Japanese one where the mainboard looks brand new. No power. Bought a cal kit but the power/audio sub board was the only one that needed it. Also replaced the regulator. Fuse was/is fine. Still no power. I assume it isn’t getting the signal to power on from the attached console even though everything looks good.
Beware you *have* to use a low-dropout regulator for sega CD/mega CD, or else the 5V supply can dip due to the huge demand of the motors in the CD drive.
@@rfmerrill Sorry, it wasn’t the regulator I replaced. IT was TR4, which Console5 sells as “SEGA CD - TR4 REPLACEMENT TRANSISTOR (FOR NO POWER CONDITION).” Did nothing for me though they say it’s an “upgraded replacement” since the original part is no longer available. Maybe that was my issue and it’s a tolerance thing with the replacement. Regardless, I think I need to try a known-food sub board before I do anything else to it.
The stock signal path for composite video out goes IC9 -> R49 -> CE12 -> EM2 -> CN1 You want to break this path somehow. Easiest is to remove one of the three components in the middle. But once you've removed one, the others are not doing anything and can also be removed (but you can leave them in too, it doesn't matter).
