Sega Genesis triple bypass-common oversights on Model 2 VA0/VA1/VA1.8

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Of course as soon as I started uploading the video I realized I missed one thing :)
You want one and only one pull-up resistor on CSYNC. If you're not cutting any traces, that means you either need to remove R48 on the genesis or R1 on the triple bypass board. I usually go with removing R1 on the 3BP.

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20 ноя 2021

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Комментарии : 43

@sparksterz 2 года назад

Thanks, some good tips. I've still held off on doing this mod to mine because I'm just too confused on the lack of consolidated instructions. Haven't wanted to spend the time trying to piece it all together yet!

@QuantumKraken 7 месяцев назад

I just installed this mod on my VA1.8, and drove myself nuts figuring all this out for myself. Great, comprehensive video! Only major difference I made was keeping composite by trimming and masking that pin on the din before install. Keep composite without feeding it into the 3BP.

@rfmerrill Месяц назад

That works, but you will have some extra load on the RGB signals so you might end up slightly darker.

@QuantumKraken Месяц назад

@@rfmerrill Yep. I haven't noticed a difference pre/post install in the brightness, but I wouldn't recommend the change if you are aiming for perfect video.

@hadesmcc Год назад

Thank you for the tips man, this makes for a really clean installation!

@emmettturner9452 2 года назад

I’ve only done Model 1 systems but this is a great video! Thanks.

@maxrichards5925 Год назад

Thanks for the info. I bought a VA1.8 pre modded & when using a Csync scart cable the color red wasn't there & the power jack was wobbling. SInce doing a resolder on the power jack I no longer have video or sound, but the power LED does come on. I made sure to remove the rf shield as well. I'm not sure what to do at this point with this model, but I might try it on a different model.

@Fahrenheit38 Год назад

I got a VA1 that I was planning to do this mod too but your video is scaring me. Your recommendations are different then all my research and now I'm lost

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

Join the consolemods.org discord and myself, zaxour or someone else can help you through it in the #genesis channel

@Fahrenheit38 9 месяцев назад

@@rfmerrill I'm going to have to do that at some point, after this video I iced the whole project

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

@@Fahrenheit38 It's really not *that* hard. The problem is mostly that since it's a community project, everyone comes up with their own method of installing it so it's hard to just pick a single guide to show people.

@Fahrenheit38 9 месяцев назад

@@rfmerrill I appreciate you taking the time to talk to me. Will poke in on the discord when I have some time

@RetroMyBits 2 года назад

Great video, thanks for the tips. I follow the video instruction from Dubesinhower. Everything seems good except i notice a humming noise, not sure what the deal is. I did replace all the caps. But since i have a M2 VA0, did not find much info. Any idea what can be causing that noise? Thanks

@rfmerrill Год назад

Lots of things can cause a humming noise. My first guess would usually be that your cable's outer shell is not making good contact with the AV port's ground, but that tends to be more of a problem on the aftermarket DIN ports rather than the one the model 2 came with.

@DanMAkiau 2 года назад

Hi Sir, I have a Genesis 2 VA4 with Triple Bypass. My Scart cable works with it but not my YPbPr Component cable of Retrogamingcables. Is it because I cut the trace between encoder and c-sync out? I don't understand what is wrong

@rfmerrill Год назад

I'm guessing your SCART cable uses the CSYNC pin, while the component cable gets sync from the composite video pin. Your composite video pin may not be driven.

@drewconley6444 8 месяцев назад

Like you mentioned, there's no solid place to go for this info. I'd love to do this mod for like 3 or 4 consoles, but its the most daunting mod I've done (aside RGHing a 360) all because there's no guide.

@LaminGaming Год назад

Do you need to add 5.6k pull ups to RGB if you've removed R62, R63, and R64? I ended up adding the 5.6k pull ups and removed R62, R63, and R64 without realising this, and wasn't sure if this would cause issues? If so I'll remove them. Or maybe cutting the RGB traces would be a workaround if I wanted to leave the 5.6k pull ups that I added, since this would bypass R50, R51, and R52... I think? Edit: I didn't need the 5.6k pull-up resistors, so I removed them. I talked to Tianfeng on Twitter about it and he said it was alright to not cut the traces and let the SMD 562 pull-up resistors (R50, R51, and R52) work as normal.

@rfmerrill Год назад

R62-R64 are series resistors that connect the RGB lines to the encoder. As you noted, R50-R52 are the pull-ups and they're connected before the series resistors, so they're still in circuit if you remove R62-R64.

@LaminGaming 11 месяцев назад

@@rfmerrill Also, this in unrelated, but out of curiosity would you happen to know what a 47uF capacitor connected to the AV on a PAL VA0 is for? I left it in circuit not knowing what it's purpose was. There doesn't appear to be any documentation on it either, that I could find at least. It might be specific only to PAL systems as well. It's connected to a ground pin and to the 5V pin on the output. I think I remember seeing some people leaving it in for the 3BP, but I honestly don't know what it's for. It's not restricted to just the VA0, as this video shows a PAL VA1 for comparison: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DQMSMsZkiZE.html Any help would be appreciated, I'm currently just leaving it alone for now.

@rfmerrill 11 месяцев назад

@@LaminGamingidk why it's bodged in there when there's already a capacitor across 5V and Ground. I think you can probably ditch it.

@adriennebetts6589 2 месяца назад

@@LaminGaming I was wandering to I have worked on many pal master system 2's now and they all have had that capacitor there to and not on the ones I got from japan. I just decided to removed it on the last bypass mod I did on a va1 and the console was randomly going black and white so I put it back on and it stopped doing it but I also re-soldered the 3 rgb veers just in case why I had it open even though I had good joins. so don't no but was the first time I removed it. Did you remove it and did you have any problems?

@Zronium 2 года назад

when removing r48, do you need to bridge it or connect it on to anything?

@rfmerrill 2 года назад

Nope, just remove it.

@GeorgeArthurJr 2 года назад

First I've seen of CE12 being removed. What's the point of this and is it actually needed to be done?

@rfmerrill 2 года назад

The stock signal path for composite video out goes IC9 -> R49 -> CE12 -> EM2 -> CN1 You want to break this path somehow. Easiest is to remove one of the three components in the middle. But once you've removed one, the others are not doing anything and can also be removed (but you can leave them in too, it doesn't matter).

@blackhavocjim 2 года назад

Every post of this mod I see has CE11 on the top left removed also, but no one explains why. Am I missing some common knowledge here?

@rfmerrill Год назад

It's one of the capacitors highlighted in the Mega Amp install instructions, because the Mega Amp (at least some versions) allows for mono audio out in addition to stereo. With the 3BP you usually don't bother with mono because most of the cables for the model 2 that use mono audio also use composite (I think the only cables that use mono audio with the model 2 DIN are the RF modulator and the mono AV cable which may have only come with the 32X). I don't think it matters if you remove it or leave it for a 3BP install. You've already disconnected the inputs to the mixing circuit so there won't be any mono audio out anyway.

@showmanproducoes 2 года назад

Are u be able to do a step by step tutorial for download? I could pay you for this!

@cyrusjalali1571 6 месяцев назад

Thanks for your guide. I am doing the Neptune mod using Zaxour board and VA1.8 board. Also using HD retro-vision cable. I am only getting sound and no video out. I followed Zaxour's guide specific to the model VA 1.8 board. On Zaxour's board S75 , 2, C, E, and sync are soldered in. On the VA 1.8 Pins 20-23 lifted. RGB lines are sourced from the bottom of the VA board as you shown in your video. What is not similar to common 3BP installs for the neptune mod is that the board is not directly soldered to the main VA board. I know the neptune mod (combing 32x with model 2) is not widely known to many so finding any info on this very hard. The only guide I am using is this ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-oz_8-sqxLjs.html But he skims through many of the intricate steps I am so far getting very clear sound. I guess am having a sync issue? What do you think? I am willing to send it in to someone who can try and diagnose it.

@rfmerrill Месяц назад

Why are you asking me instead of just going into the consolemods discord or asking zaxour himself? I got no clue about the "Neptune" mod tbh

@samuraispiritsx Год назад

I've had this mod done for me on 3 systems, all of them have failed. This mod is really iffy.

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

There are a lot of opportunities for bad solder joints or other failures here. It's certainly an involved install.

@give_me_my_nick_back 10 месяцев назад

Making it CSYNC is pretty dumb idea, do not disconect composite video because CSYNC is not a part of SCART standard (well it is for SECAM, but not for PAL TVs), it does not make the picture any better if you use a good cable but it will cause compatibility issues on plenty of TVs, especially on CRTs!!

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

I didn't design this mod. The 3BP by design disables composite video since the RGB lines get disconnected from the encoder. If you want to keep composite video you can use Zaxour's updated 3BP board, which this video doesn't cover.

@give_me_my_nick_back 9 месяцев назад

@@rfmerrill I went with some written tutorial kinda blind as long as composite video line is not cut it will work as a sync - I mean if you try using AV you will only see a very dark faded picture but it is enough for a TV to detect it as AV signal and it works no problem :D

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

@give_me_my_nick_back Um.. but if you don't have RGB going into the encoder, what it's outputting is basically csync. It's not any more of a compliant composite video signal anyway. A properly attenuated csync signal is basically equivalent to a monochrome composite signal with a solid black image. If there are compatibility issues with the signal that the 3BP puts out on the composite pin, I'd be interested to know about them.

@rfmerrill 9 месяцев назад

@@give_me_my_nick_backThe more important thing is that you don't want the 3BP and the encoder to be "fighting" over the composite output. You have to disconnect one or the other.

@give_me_my_nick_back 9 месяцев назад

@@rfmerrill My educated guess is it's an issue caused by s-video auto detection, s-video was never meant to be used with scart, it has always been a hack and some "smart" IC might be using the video/sync pin to determinate if you feed s-video or RGB. Since I'd rather avoid people complaining about the console no longer working with their CRT TVs, I avoid CSync. As for the mod, the tutorial calls for the composite vido line going out of the original encoder to be cut off but if you keep it as it it will still produce some week signal that gets detected as a propper composite video by a tv solving the uncompatibility, if you cut that pin then you will get a CSync. CSync was required by the original SECAM SCART spec but PAL SCART has replaced it with composite vido so it's officially out of spec.