Welcome to my work shop. Here at my work shop I make videos to help teach and show people how to repair there own cars. My aim is to make it as easy as possible for you to do your own repairs while giving out tips which i think will help you on the repairing journey.
From one Terry to another you might get more views if you don't have your camera on a rope as your swinging around taking video of it so no one can see what you're actually doing. Lol
Tu te fais moins chier a demonter la demi ligne qui sort du moteur: 3 boulons sur le moteur, 2 boulons sur le collier, tu pousses le tube sur le côté et tu as des tonnes de places pour mettre une douille ou une clef pour démonter le filtre, et t'en met pas de partout quand ça coule !
you didnt add any salt or baking soda to the water you need an electrolyte other than the trace bits and impurities in the tap water for a more furious reaction also a limiting fuse is good otherwise the plates warm up the water and then it requires more amps to run the plates resulting in a thermal and amperage runaway.
I have a 2012 opel astra j 1.4 and it won't start, I wanted to ask you if when you turned it on you didn't press the pedal the yellow pedal warning light would still come on? Or vice versa if you pressed the pedal the yellow warning light would remain off? Is it true that once this sensor is replaced it needs to be recalibrated? Can you tell me the oen code for this sensor? thanks
Was going to do it myself. But.. the fiddlyness of it!! Im in Leicestershire if your local? I have the egr valve cuz when i bought my Doblo 2008 1.3 the guy said I needed replacement and he had bought the part but not done it. He said he replaced the egr cooler and it seemed to work. But the problem has now come back. Engine light says its a glow plug that has failed. When i drive it the EGR fan is constantly on. Loud. Dont think my local garage will use the EGR valve i have. They only use parts they supply.
Mate I'm in Herne bay south east, I've got an old t4 that I love sadly It's been sitting for years , needs new panels and welding the whole sides done set and wings, if you're got any contacts down this way that won't charge the earth pet me know, last attempt before unfortunately scrapping it
You get the spanner then? Same for me but its still the same steps. The spanner will light up and stay on after holding the trip and turning ignition on and then do the same thing like he said just press the min button once
I have a vectra 1.9 2008. I took out my driveshat (passenger side) to replace the gaiter as it was ripped. After putting it back in the inner shaft keeps popping out from the gearbox when driving for no more than 6 miles. I centered the retainer clip and even whacked the shaft in and still pops out whilst driving. This happened few times now. I’m about to give up. Any advise appreciated. Thanks.
Check that u haven’t got a damaged engine mount. The other thing to do is to un clip the small end of the boot, just incase the boot is to tight and is pulling the cv out
@@TheADHDmechanic I appreciate your reply. Thanks. Just to clarify, the driveshaft which I my one the cv boot is already ripped so no tension. The car was driving fine until the point where I decided to initially replace with a new one (as explained in my initial comment). With te engine mounts, I mean If this was the case then would have caused the shaft to come out before even trying to replace no?. I think it’s all about the clip that locks in the transmission. Because that’s the only thing that will lock in place. Do you think inside the transmission seating or what ever it’s called May have been damaged so that it has lost its function to secure the clip inside?
Every single bolt I have touched on my sons vw t5 was seized most had to be cut off , is this usual, ( replaced top strut mtg bearing ) can’t get ball joint back in . can’t get lower arm bolt undone. 😢
There are a couple of ideas to add. There are some diesels where the DPF fails prematurely. If this happens fitting a new DPF is thousands of pounds. Some examples: The new ingenium 2.0 Land Rovers, and the for transit connect 1.5 TDCIs from around 2018 have some cheap dpf installed in a bad location and on these models the internals and the case separates or the internals or cracks and let soot pass. On older euro5 models this might not be a problem but a newer euro6 models usually do have a sensor called the particulate matter sensor that knows the dpf failed and puts the van/car into limp mode until the issue is fixed. This can be easily diagnosed with the "finger in the hole" method and if you see carbon on your finger the dpf failed on these. Generally don't do a forced static regen. Period. If the car does not do a regen by itself there is a reason for that and a forced regen will most probably fail for that reason. If the soot content is too high in the dpf the temps can go uncontrolled if it starts the process for some reason and in can crack the case, the internals or both and kills an otherwise good dpf. Does not worth the risk. If a DPF is blocked it is usually can be cleaned fairly easily, if it is cracked it is done. DPFs can do a regen wherever on modern cars when the circumstances are right. There are a couple of different systems. Ford uses a "fifth injector (evaporator that sprays myst of fuel to the exhaust to bump up the temps)" in the exhaust on some models (this can clog and regens fail. Can be cleaned or replaced), PSA/stellantis uses an additive system which doses a fluid into the fuel called the Eolys fluid which then lowers the soot burning temperature from around 900 degrees celsius to 600. The best is to let them run on the motorway for a while, but they can do a regen without issues even on tickover. If the circumstances are right and there a lot of these the cars can start the regen process when the so called differencial pressure reaches a given treshold (we are talking about millibars here). These circumstances are different on each system but includes for example oil and coolant temps relative to external temperatures (for example dead external temp meters results the car not doing regens), pressures, fuel level, oil state (if the car thinks the oil is old on japanese cars they disable the regen) so reset the oil change interval on japanese diesels religiously when you change oil). On some cars if the AC failed the regen also gets disabled because these cars disable the electric fan and that is needed for the regen. On others if glowplugs are failed (and the error code is in the Powertrain module or ECU of the failed glowplugs) regen will not kick in, etc. This is far from detailed but you get the idea. The blocked DPF is usually a result of some systems failed in the car. On some PSA models there is a countdown from new, and it reaches about 0 around 100-120k miles, where the cars says the dpf is at it's end of life and needs a replacement and also stops the regen. Around the same time the factory fill of Eolys in the eolys tank runs dry too, so there are a couple of things to check, clean and fill, etc. On Renault models the inlet turbo pressure sensor pipe can clog up and bad readings can confuse the ecu which also disables regen, and so on. Fix the issue that causes the blockage and do a dpf clean you can easily do with the DPF in the car. The two thin metal pipes on your dpf in the video are the pipes for the two inputs for the DPF pressure sensor. When your DPF is blocked and you can easily verify that with a diagnostic tool with life data (dpf differencial pressure) or with a manometer that can measure differencial pressure), then you can clean it yourself as DPF cleaning foams even available in a can in stores. They need some careful use but generally when the DPF is not mounted directly to the engine they can be used without any issue whatsoever, if the dpf is mounted close to the engine, do the cleaning process with the engine running. They need to get into the preferably hot DPF from the first pipe (inlet pressure sensor pipe) need to foam up and then exit via the exhaust system, in theory. When this is done there are some things to reset, relearn or recalibrate in a diagnostic tool and then generally when the issues are fixed the car is happily ready for the next 100-120k miles. So summarizing again: NO FORCED REGENS - get the diagnostic tool, and find why the dpf is blocked, fix those, make sure all systems are problem free that can be related to the dpf (some system does NOT throw error codes, for example japanese cars does not tell you the AC system is bad but disable regen anyway, Renault may not tell you the inlet pressure pipe is clogged, but you can check it yourself) - clean the dpf - reset, relearn, recalibrate system.
This is an easy job the egr valve can be taken off an Opel astra with the 1.3 engine in a few minutes and you don't need a mirror or anything else just reach behind and remove the two bolts with a t45 and comes out without removing anything
Had a crack at doing this job this morning. Didn't have a cam belt so found an old bike inner tube I've been saving to make patches out of. Wrapped it around tightly and then wrapped the loose end around a spider brace. Kept turning the brace and stretching the rubber until it finally gave way. Same method to tighten back up. Thanks for the idea !
I have problem ... exaust gases on the water system and high pressure...so....i buy a new cooler.... i instal tge new cooler and now i have 10 times more high pressure in the water system .... 😮😮I can not understand where the problem is really .
@@TheADHDmechanic i am agree yes but sometimes the cooler makes those problems . Another car we change the AGR cooler and then the pressure on the water is goon . Thats why i buy a new cooler but like i see the problem is not this . Thanks for answer.
Hi m8, can a slipping belt give a similar effect as a slipping clutch plate ? Also if you have lost a shim plate can you use 3 washers instead? Cheers PeaceFromOZ
Hi mate sorry for the late reply If the belt slips it can make the steering jerky an intermittent and normally u will get a lot of belt noise on fall lock Regards tel 😊😔
Good to see that. Scratching my head a little as I went to torque the M14s up to 90nm + 45degree (VW settings ) and the thread stripped at a little over 50nm on one. Did note metal swarf coming out when I took the old bolt out and had previous suspension work carried out twice over the years and arms off for replacement bushes recently by others. Autodoc note 50nm for the M14 which seemed loose hence the cross check with the Workshop manual
