Hi Friends! I am a car and tech hobbyist with some garage space and a bunch of tools. This channel will focus on vehicle and small engine repair with an emphasis on Honda. In my teens, rebuilding the small block in my '69 Mustang showed me that you just have to have the guts to tear it apart, see what engineering went into it and rebuild it. In those days all we had was Chilton and Haynes manuals. Now that the Internet is a thing, I'm going to share my continuing journey and gained knowledge. Thanks for visiting!
Its 2024 , how is the honda accord performing now? Im get into rebuilding my own engine too but idk how to remove it from the car. Ive searched and couldnt find step by step videos 😅
My system dashboard says I have a fuel gauge system problem and I have no lights on my fuel monitor. Wondering which part on the pump do I replace the wire and the bobber or just the entire thing?
Great video. I've had 3 clutch master cylinders go bad and the reason was the same each time. One of the 3 bolts holding the housing together had snapped and the Dot fluid leaked out, pedal to the floor with no warning signs at all. I'm wondering if this is a common problem?
Resistor method works better imo and can't really be detected by a visual inspection. Non-foulers do work btw because the sensor is simply exposed to less O2. Good to hollow out the cats for more power. F the guv and their BS
Unless your vehicle is 0:04 sending a plume of smoke from the exhaust, these emission laws are ridiculous! The amount of dangerous emissions expelled by a vehicle during its final useful lifetime is far less than the emissions and pollution caused by tearing apart, separating and smelting all the steel and components of the already existing and useful paid for vehicle. I miss the days of buying a $300 car with minor issues, spending a few hours and $ for parts. Nice, I'd have a good running beater to drive for a couple of years! Good luck today..
I know this is old but i’m going to be replacing my whole front end , ball joints and control arms n all, couldn’t i just avoid removing the axel nut and disengage the lower control arm and pull the axle out still? like with the whole knuckle assembly
After bleeding my clutch, my slave cylinder spring broke. This caused my clutch to fall.to the floor and stop working. After this repair, my cruise control would not work. Searching every video and website, along with all the electrical diagrams etc to not find the issue, I stumbled across this video which had nothing to do with the cruise control. Incidentally, this video pointed out the plastic rubber that fell off causing the cruise control to stop working. Two minutes to inspect and now my cruise control is fixed 🤩. The little rubber behind the peddle must have snapped when my brother got the shits trying to push the peddle down helping to bleed a clutch with a faulty slave cylinder. Thanks for this video 😊 Was about to pay an auto electrician to diagnose a problem that cost nothing to fix 😆.
So I'm rebuilding my F22 and I never clamped down my rocker arm assembly now the rockers are loose, nothing fully came apart but there are gaps in between rockers. I'm having trouble pushing back together so I tried to take it apart and also won't work. It wouldn't thread the screws in because on the gaps too.
There are all kinds of springs, cylinders and spacers in-between the rockers that are tedious to place. If any of the parts are misaligned it won't go back together. It is about impossible to explain in a reply how it is assembled. Search Google for "f22 vtec rocker assembly exploded view" or f23. There are diagrams out there that show the placement.
I have pics from 2020 of me changing the inner seal, however I have an inkling that it's leaking again. Any idea how long these seals last? Looks like I'm going to have to go back to autozone to claim warranty on the kit.
TL:DR - You might not have a bad CAT - it might be cheapo (aka bad) O2 sensors. Buy NTK or OEM sensors (it's worth the extra $). Was down a rabbit hole not being able to get rid of a P0420 on my 2011 JK Wrangler. Ended up replacing the bank 1 O2 sensors with a Chinese brand off Amazon thinking that would fix it - NOPE! ... tested replacement o2 sensors and they were giving off too high 6 ohms across heater element. CEL's for "high-voltage" persisted (NTK & Mopars give off 3.5 ohms). Almost bought new Catalytic convertors (also tried cleaning the cats & even using the spark plug non-fouler trick but CEL's persisted due to cheapo O2 sensors - non-foulers will not work if your cheap sensors are sending incorrect voltages to the PCM). After much research, discovered the JK is super sensitive to o2 sensors. Ended up buying the NTK brand and they worked perfectly. DO NOT USE ANY OTHER o2 SENSOR on a JK than NTK or MOPAR (Bosch is too sensitive and will trigger CEL's). NTK website has a part lookup function (note: upstream and downstream are different part numbers). NTK are more expensive but TOTALLY worth it. Cheap sensors are not worth the hassle. Another key tip: O2 sockets are not meant to "break loose" difficult sensors - the wrench (link below), with a hammer, worked perfectly for breaking loose the sensor (after broken loose, then you can use the slotted sensor socket). Also, use PB blaster the night before. Note: Always use a thread chaser & high-temp anti-seize before inserting new sensor www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I6TBHE0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
Fucking hate when ppl skip the hardest step. “Yeah this was a pain in the ass so I went ahead and skipped it and did it off camera just drive it out with a drill bit” wdym? Drill it out or hammer it out?
great video except for that part. now i’m not sure how to safely get the pin out myself. can i hammer it out or how exactly do you drill it out? i would love some advice
This is a REALLY well done video, kudos. It's so tough to get a good shot under the dash. Great job explaining how to fix this problem with minimal investment. JB Weld plus a measly nickel! I've just finished removing the clutch pedal assembly on my 2007 Honda Fit Sport to get enough clearance to allow replacing the EPS electric steering module. I've been working on cars for over 60 years (turning 80 tomorrow) and this EPS job was by far the most difficult job I've ever tackled. You can't see it, you can't reach it behind the fuse panel. Had to remove half the nearly impossible to remove electrical umbilicals from fuse panel so it could be muscled out of the way. That alone took two hours and several beers LOL. Required more skill and patience than rebuilding an engine or manual transmission. Who enjoys laying with your back across the threshold while trying to see up under the dash? What a terrible nightmare. Back to the point of your video, totally agree that removing a Honda clutch pedal assembly is a difficult time consuming job. My assembly is attached with four nuts. The two on the right were not too bad to reach plus you can see them. The bottom left was tougher but it took me 5 times as long as the first three in total to remove the one on the upper left. You cannot see it from the footwell with a superbridht flashlight. An inspection mirror didn't help. The flange the clutch interlock safety switch attaches to makes it impossible to see and nearly impossible to get a 12mm socket on that nut. Plenty of swear words, cobbling together multiple adapters and short extensions and different wrenches to break it loose initially and then switch to a fine tooth ratchet handle. Factory spec for the nuts is 16 lb/ft. I estimate it took at least 50-60 to loosen them. The gorilla in the factory must have cranked his pneumatic wrench up to 175psi. The Honda engineer who designed this to be nearly unremovable should be drawn and quartered.
I have a 2008 ridgeline with 127K. I have po420 and po430 codes. Is it likely to be the catalytic converters since i have both codes or could it be both o2 sensors?
As Long As it Don't Cause Drivability Issues Like Mine Getting Misfires On Cylinders 2 & 4 & Giving You Rich & Lean Code Warnings I Guess If You Can Deal with The Noise its Fine...Mine Is Leaking Between the EGR tube Connection & The Bell Connection On My Drivers Side Exhaust Manifold 😟
If it doesn't affect anything, why worry about it? My accord has almost 500000 miles is just a light. My check engine light's on too. It's straight piped.
Thanks. Will try tomorrow. Just to be sure you say 5 and 9. Brown to brown. In my paranoia I see some are saying 4 to 9. Brown and black. Def don’t want to fry it. Thanks again.
If you can't catch the scratch with your fingernail, you are probably fine. If I remember correctly, the D 15 had one I could feel, but I sent it. Ran perfect, no oil use for 35k before I sold it.
@@ktecgarage Thats awesome, I have a K20 that cylinder #4 is the only one low on compression, I was thinking about honing and some new piston rings to remedy. Would you see any problems with this and re-using the pistons?
@kseries20-24only depends on where you are losing the compression. I'd suspect the valves as well. Get them clean or buy new ones and grind them like I show in the head rebuild part of this series. Good luck
So I used both diy vid and got the belts on and all cranked it and it would hit but not “start” or stay on went back to check that vid to see if I missed anything and yours came up, what you covered with the engine balancer was not covered on the other vid so I took it apart and followed your directions. Got her all back together and she cranked on within the first revolution. I can’t express my gratitude enough for you taking the time to put this instruction out there. Appreciate you.
On my 2004 Honda Element this procedure blows the 10 amp fuse in the under the hood fuse box, fuse #9 labeled "backup" in the owners manual, but your car stereo and power locks will not work without it. I would have been okay with blowing the fuse if it actually worked to give me the SRS codes, but it did not. Hope this helps someone else with a Honda Element.
Hi I enjoy watching your informative videos. On that note....I have an issue with newly purchased 2001 Honda Accord EX. It seems the passenger seat side airbag had deployed during the first (and only) owner. They claim it was not in an accident, and there is no sign of one. This could occur from other issues like bumpy roads, etc. My question is - If I use a resistor on the airbag harness, and the light turns off, is it because the resistor "tricks" the module to think the side airbag is still in- and will the other srs airbags will function normally in an accident?. Or, does the light just turn off and I'm screwed ? Thanks
Great video! I noticed the broken rubber piece on the floor, but it turned out to be the cruise control pad. I tried the paper clip trick, but it didn’t crank. My battery is only a few days old and cranked great yesterday. Today, nothing. Lights on the dash turn on, but no luck cranking over. Should I buy a new switch or could it be something else like the starter? 🤔
You can use a volt meter to see if the starter is getting the crank signal when you turn the key before you buy one and switch it out. Also try hitting the starter with a hammer. That can unstick to solenoid if that's the issue. Thanks for commenting!
This worked on my 2001 Honda Accord. I've been living with this for about 10 years. I knew how to reset the light but it would always come back after a while. Great video - thanks very much. I subscribed.
