As an EV owner since 2011, this channel is dedicated to Tesla Model 3 and Fisker Ocean owners that like to modify and learn more about their amazing cars. Look forward to mods, accessories, tips and tricks that I want to share.
BTW, I hate talking head videos where you look at the host as they jabber on for 30 minutes or more. I present and edit for maximum content, how-to details, or at least visual enjoyment! No need to look at my mug for the whole video, no gratification of ego here.
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Good day. I bought an ocean one from Norway. Software 2.1. I can't connect Wi-Fi, it says that the connection is not established. Do you have any options for connecting it? Maybe I need to activate it programmatically? How do I reconnect the e-SIM to my operator? Thank you.
@@АлексейСадовников-ь5з Sometimes you have to enter the SSID and password a few times before it starts working. Also make sure the SSID and password don’t have symbols. Also try 2.4 and 5GHz bands to see which one works better. Line seemed to like 5GHz. eSIM has nothing to do with WiFi. I don’t think there is a way to change the eSIM for another 4G provider yet.
I have the same wirings of the monitor and tender to the 12V like yours. I also cut the the battery cover to allow the wires to come out freely. I am using Vector smart battery charger. It auto selects GEL type instead of AGM. It normally uses the 2.2Amp instead of the 10 or 15Amp option. I assume the Vector charger knows what it is doing. That said, I use the 16 gauge cable w/ 15Amp fuse. So is that right I shall hookup the charger when the 2.2 upgrade starts? Thanks.
Besides being extremely wasteful, I don't recommend it. I would invest in a $20-40 Bluetooth battery monitor to keep tabs on the battery. When you see it get to a low voltage state consistently, I would look into replacing it. Yes, EVs are hard on batteries, you can usually expect 2-3 years of normal use.
I noticed that you had your charging current set to 32A - from what I can tell, that appears to be the max amperage for Level 2 charging. Is that right? I was hoping that it would go up to 40A or 48A.
Yes, that is another option, in addition to putting a connector on the front bumper. My only hesitation is that it's behind a locked charge port cover.
Very useful video as always. If the wiring is configured to use a donor battery in the future when need to replace, is it possible to trickle charge the battery mean while?
Yes, that's the idea. If you use the second configuration, you can do trickle, jump and donor replace. I didn't think of the second configuration until later on. I'll probably change my current connections at some point.
Maan, I was really hoping you'd take the door handle covers off to replace your inserts so I could see what the LED light looks like / how I could possibly test or replace mine ;)
@@MTNRanger I ended up taking it apart - only took a few minutes. The LED light strip that faces inboard to the handle had a tear in it, but the wires are so close together that i'm not sure I can solder them back together. I heard you can still buy parts from Chevalier in the UK, from a local Fisker Tech / Mobile repair guy, but I'm not seeing any sort of store front / web site to do so.
@@MTNRanger well that sucks - I just took the led strip out since it was torn anyhow - and it looks like 2 or 3 of the leds were melted / stuck to the handle. Perhaps I just take them out of all of the handles so it's at least consistent. Well, only if I can't get a replacement.
Awesome Video. - QUESTION: I really enjoyed that video! I have a question for you. How can I tell if I need to replace my 12-volt battery? My battery is always connected to my battery tender, even when I disconnect it from the tender in the morning. Sometimes, when I start my car, I get a 12-volt warning message, but not every time. I’m wondering if I should replace the battery because after the first time, I don’t have any issues with the battery throughout the day. What would you recommend? I don’t want to spend money on a battery if I don’t need one.
If you get the warning when you start the car, it may not be very useful. If during the day or if you leave the car unlocked for a while, and you notice battery warnings, then it may be degraded enough to replace. If you have a battery monitor, keep an eye on it. It should not be getting lower than 12.0 (preferably, 12.4 or so).
It's not as necessary since when 2.2 is installed, the HV battery pack supposedly will now charge the 12V battery during updates. But I do think they are useful for when the car is left for one week or more by itself. It can still cut down on vampire losses. Also, if your 12 V battery is on the weak side, it may help.
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I have installed a 2amps battery tender and it’s still flashing red after 36 hours; is 2amps enough to bring the battery up enough to turn green and switch to a maintaining mode?
Be careful with that charger. I have the 25A version of that same charger and the first one got hot and melted. Got tired of my F250's batteries dying since I don't drive it a lot and i'd bring out one of my solar generators to power it and charge the batteries (it's parked on the street), but it became too much of a hassle, so I fabricated some mounts to put a 410W solar panel (I had one left over from another project) in the bed of the truck, mounting a Victron charge controller / DC disconnect under it to send power to the batteries via some 8AWG cables. So far, my .41kw trickle charger has been working nicely. :)
I feel so on top of this! Did this last week! XD watching your older video, i came to the same conclusion. I think we even bought the same 10 gauge cable!
Thank you so much for the update download links. I was able to download it and update my 5.16" HUD. Once updated, the two numbers (the battery charged number and the miles left number) reflected the accurate numbers. Just in case, to initiate the update once inserted the USB into the HUD device, I had to exit the car, then reenter the car to initiate the updated software on the HUD device. Once the update initiated, it installed without any trouble. Again thanks,
Hi Matt - Great video! ? - With 2.2 - If the HV battery is degraded/degrading, would it show 100% SoC on the display if charging to 100% or show some lower % indicating delta as amount degraded? What is the best way to determine if battery is degrading aside from mileage drop? Thanks Matt.
The 2.2 update has a different calculation for miles remaining. Previous versions were based on the EPA value (eg. 350 or 360 miles). Now it is based on the last 600 miles of driving statistics. For mine, I show 342 miles on 100%. This should not really reduce your miles. I plan to do some testing on my next long distance trip and see if the change has any effect on my car. As far as degradation, it's not certain how that is reflected in the calculations. You will always see 100% on a full charge. The actually net kWh may be less than the original 106.5. It will gradually decline over time. For example, on my 2018 Tesla Model 3 with 71,000 miles, I have roughly 93% of my original battery pack.
Finally got home to check out my Fisker Ocean One with 2.2 already installed and it runs / drives pretty good. The only thing that I can tell so far that wasn't working upon delivery is the door handle light on the driver's door. All others were good. The puddle light works, just not the one that shows where the handle is. By chance are you aware of any fixes for that?
If just one of the door handle lights is not working probably indicates that one is bad and needs to be replaced. Just to verify, you are talking about the white insert in the middle of the door handle?
@@MTNRanger Yeah, in looking at the wiring diagram, it looks like there's a pick point that splits power between the front and rear driver side doors, so it's looking like I either disassemble the handle and replace the LED or find a new door handle for my brand new ride that arrived with 31 miles on the odometer. Terrible.
@@MTNRanger yes, within the first weeks. They had a tech come out. They said my column was bad. They ordered a new one. And they fired the guy midway in my order. Fast forward till today. I have a Fisker one on earth mode and no soft reset lol . I reached out to foa and Newport Fisker without success
@@MTNRangerall depends on how it goes with chase . I’m heart broken. Still love my ocean. But will have to hold off on spending more money at this time.
Yep, I almost exclusively use Earth mode, and the front tires wear out significantly faster than the rear tires. At 8k miles the rears (which spent 6k up front) are almost ready to be replaced (L - 3/32, R 4/32), and the fronts are still pretty healthy. Given the fact that I typically use Earth, I follow the FWD rotation rec even though I have an Ultra.
@@MTNRanger Yeah, not sure at all. I know ultimately the plan is to get each tire on every corner, but I sincerely doubt mine will last long enough to do that.
Thank you! I’m worried about the zip tie going brittle over time in a hot car-so I think I’ll try it with the wire like your first idea. Was there something that made the wire a problem? May combine it with drilling a hole in the trim. Haven’t been locked completely in yet, but have had the drivers side door refuse to open from the inside.
@@DonnieNeedsCoffee I had a problem with the length of the loop - when I pull the loop, it hits the corner where it’s guided through. The loop to loop connection didn’t work reliably for me. Maybe if I find a different way to attach it.
Idk what to do. My battery lite comes on while driving right away then car won’t accelerate. I did these two things not fixed. I’m in Vegas area not sure what to do I have a useless car
@@MTNRanger just the little battery lite comes on. Then I can’t accelerate. I tried hard reset n soft. Car works for a min then does the same thing (first time ever I charged it to 100% not sure if that messed anything up)
@@MTNRanger is the sensor touching something? I saw u made another video about that? The battery doesn’t seem dead because I can drive it for a min then it shuts off
@@mymountrushmore6235 It could either be the seat sensor or possibly the water pump. However the water pump will also give other errors and show limo mode.
@@mymountrushmore6235 charging to 100% is not a problem - just don’t leave it at the for a long time. Usually you would charge to 100% before a long trip and immediately drive it.
Matt thank you for remembering, I still have not received my title and registration. I am working with DMV. unfortunately, I paid for the car in full and have not been able to contact these scammers for a long time.
Is there any way to see the pump via a borescope (without taking everything apart as mentioned in the .pdf) just to verify that we have the latest pump version? I just got mine from the dealership, so per federal law, it should have been replaced before they could sell it to me, but still.
Yes, you would have to have the car on a lift or at least ramps to access the area underneath. It is located on the right side before you get to the battery above the underpanel.
I understand that as long as main battery is charged, it will provide power to 12v battery. In case main battery is completely dead, I can connect the car to home charger and it will charge both main and 12v battery. My question is; when would I need to use this OBD II connected charger to charge 12v battery. Please advise. Thank you
Sometimes the HV battery pack is not charging the 12V battery as well as it should. Hopefully this is improving with the latest updates. If you don't have any 12V battery issues or if the battery is healthy, you probably don't need the tender.
I really want to buy a fisker ocean ( I’m in the UK) and I have found a 6 month old one the 113kw battery with 10,000 miles for £17000 or $20,000 but I think it’s still a big risk and the insurance is £1,400 a year. I might just offer him £12,500 and take a chance. What do you think ?
If you have a service location accessible, that would make me more comfortable suggesting you purchase one. Also if you are DIY/auto tinkerer, even better.
@@MTNRanger hi I think it’s more the software updates that are the issue. I have spoken to other owners over here and they don’t seem to have had many problems with the car. Thanks for the reply
The coolant motor issues will be a huge problem long term in the UK due to the amount of rain here. Unless someone manages to source some from the OEM supplier, your cars basically bricked if the battery coolant motor suffers water ingress and fails.
@@Jonathan_Doe_ Rain and seals are not the issue. It’s condensation when the motors ok the PCB. Only a small number of the motors have the issue. Replacement motors are being shipped right now to service centers. You can also repair the motors by spraying conformal coating on the PCB (obviously before it breaks). The pumps are made by Johnson Electric in the UK. There are also pumps for other cars that will work.
So it works but I think something a bit more elegant would be to use a spring loaded handle from existing OEM such as Lincoln specifically made for the trunk release. You could drill a small hole and mount t h e pull handle with a spring incorporatedi so when it is pulled the handle would release the latch and reset itself using the the pull handle guide with internal spring much like a pen uses to retract back .
Of course, I consider this a proof in concept and a quick solution for people to use immediately. There are plenty of nicer versions that could be done. Using a manual trunk pull handle is being looked at (specifically search for "Hyundai emergency trunk" on eBay).
Another great video thanks! Any way you can do a video accessing the spaceship noise speaker under the car? I think me and a few others have had theirs unplugged I can’t seem to figure out where it is with picture online. Just a thought if youre looking for some content thanks again!
The pedestrian warning speaker AKA Vehicle Sound For Pedestrian or VSP is located near the front right wheel. Now that the alert/lock/unlock/opening/closing liftgate sounds for version 2.2 go through the VSP, it's probably good to keep it connected. I've now disconnected the siren.
@@jeffreymills4307 Ok, the "buried alive" threw me off! One person had to have the hood opened and the 12V battery jumped to get the doors to open. I'm not sure what the other did.
