Great idea, thanks for sharing. I started printing your 1st version, but relised I could power this V2 by a 12V bench top Power supply. But you have two impellers, one clockwise (CW) and one anticlockwise (CWW) . I think in you video you have the CW one shown. Does it matter which one I print?
@@chriscorcoran6889 it depends on the direction the motor spins, if it spins clockwise use the CW otherwise use the ccw one. Though, to be totally honest, the difference is not extreme.
@@scheffield Thanks, another couple of "Silly questions", 1) I assume any ESC can be driven by a 12V power supply? and 2) Every day is a school day. Do these brushless motors arbitarily go CW or CWW?
If you drive it with 12V it will rotate slower and therefore creating a smaller vacuum to the point that it becomes useless. Brushless motors have three wires that, at least in the case of the one I have used, have no markings. Their rotation depends on the exact order their wires are soldered to the ESC. If the motor rotates the wrong way around you should be able to change direction by swapping any two wires. Or just print the correct impeller.
Just curious, wouldn't it make more sense doing this at the end of the print? The nozzle is already warm. No need to heat up and then cool down again. Then the nozzle is ready for next print.
Do you have to move the table a little further? On my 350mm it's not quite getting to the ptfe. And what filament do you use? I'm afraid petg will soften up when printing abs. but no other filament I've tried will give enough springiness for the element
whats the stencil made out of? you could maybe use magnets instead of loud air to pull it down! this could be a completely mechanical build instead. love this design!
I saw some discussion that TAP moves the nozzle far enough forward that you can't use a nozzle cleaner but apparently you don't have this problem. I installed the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP and using TAP, a clean nozzle is a must. Did you have to make special adjustments to use your nozzle cleaner with TAP
@@scheffield I found that the Chaotic Labs CNC TAP affects the y offset very minimally. I printed the parts, updated my config and it works very well. Thanks!
And now I've found that the wiper hits the toolhead during the bed mesh sequence. I only found out when I printed a gridfinity base that used most of the bed.
Installed and love the action.. is there a way to setup a check and preheat before the operation? Just did a clean rebuild of my 2.4 and would expect it to be able to operate independently. Also, whats your print_start look like?
Increase the thickness of your "ptfe_tube_cutter" from 10.1mm to 12.1mm and you can cut the tube to the desired length accurately and evenly without a caliper
I need to stop watching videos how to upgrade/fix Vorons and finally fix my own Trident's tool head. This was entertaining, well done. Would you mind sharing the nozzle cleaner you designed? It looked quite slick.
@3:20 I have to disagree; your nozzle has to be clean, otherwise ooze is offsetting you measurement. For me a 3d-touch or clicky probe is a prefered method
Sorry for this question but, how do you cut the stencils so nice? , normally when I order one they are quite big like an A5 or something like that, when I cut them they actually bend a bit even with very sharp scissors. Cheers!
i have installed the mod and it worked perfectly untill I printed basically a full bed of prints, and it started colliding with the printhead at the rear while printing, resulting in parts failing due to the bumping, and the ptfe holder breaking. I had to mount the bed further front to even get the printhead over the PTFE in the first place, so of the 350Y Travel i have about 330 left (5mm due to mounting the bed further front, and about 15mm for printhead clearance). I think it is due to my combination of vorons tap (a CNC version of it rather) and the stealthburner. Otherwise this workes like a charm, is easy to print, and the bumpers are a nice and welcome addition!
Haaa je me demandais pourquoi je n'étais pas sur le PTFE mais vraiment le bord de la pièce >< et je me suis aussi posé la question du risque de collision...
it's a cool thing, but I'm wondering what about repeatability? when you need to apply paste on several identical boards. do I need to adjust the stencil every time? is it possible to add traforet retainers? to set up and pin it once.
It's a pretty nice design idea. But for my purpose, i'd probably do a few things differently. First, the size. I'd probably make it large enough for at least a "Euro Size" PCB. Thats 100x160mm. They might not be that common of a size anymore, but back when i started with electronics, that was the go-to size for a lot of projects, and a lot of precut PCBs came in that size. For the fan, i'd probably just go with an off the shelf 12VDC impeller fan. Put two 4mm banana sockets on the base, and hook up my lab powersupply to the fan to control the speed. With all the added electronics you need to drive that brushless motor, i think i can buy a pretty powerful impeller fan and reduce the complexity and required assembly by a lot. And since we usually put at least two alignment holes (2.05mm hole, with +0.1/-0.0mm tolerance) for our 2.0mm alignment pins we use on test and programming fixtures in the PCB, i'd use these holes and some 2.0mm dowel pins to quickly align the PCB and stencils to eachother.
Wonderful! I have my Voron 2.4 in service but I haven’t installed the nozzle cleaner yet. I’ll give this a shot instead of the brass brush. In the meantime I’ve just been cleaning the nozzle by hand and starting the print with a long purge line.
Hi Max, I don't know if it's just me, but when I put the lid on the lifter, the small curves don't fit directly into the holes. I had to adjust this, otherwise the whole thing jams when you press the 2 parts into each other
I see you wrote this a few months ago. I had the same problem this week, but after giving the small curves a light sand, it fit very well. The holes for the M3 screws seem to keep it aligned, so even if you sand too much off or unevenly, it should remain mostly square to itself. Hope this helps!
Needing to cool the nozzel before cleaning adds time to the startup sequence unnecessarily. Better off using some silicon fuel tubing instead of the ptfe tube. Might not be as durable though. I would personally put the effort into finding some silicon sheet and make one of those designs. They work better, are more durable and can be built low profile for 2.4's.
Oof, have been using this but just recently my beacon probe collided with the print and broke the printed part. Seems like I will need to avoid printing anything close to the edge of the rear of the bed.
@@scheffield Are you using a beacon as well? I was going to edit the design so that the scrubber sits a few mm lower. The beacon PCB extends out pretty far back on my setup and is only about 3mm above the nozzle.
great work and well documented, thanks for that! Could it be that you have forgotten the variable_bucket_start: and variable_bucket_pos: in the clean_nozzle.cfg? And in Line 103 it should be MACRO=clean_nozzle instead of MACRO=clean_nozzle_2?
I'm also getting errors on the value "bucket_pos", I can't find it in the .cfg file or where to change this. Probably I misread something because in the cfg file there it says for the Y position thats its assumed 0 but with my printer it is 350.
i got a question for you.. i got a bambulab a1 mini . after maby 3 prints the print bed was to low on the left side. i did auto bed leveling over and over but did not help. i contacted bambulab and they gave me a guide how to manual level the bed. if i have to level it manual, then what is the auto bed leveling doing? is it just moving to make it look like it is auto leveling?
i got Error evaluating 'gcode_macro clean_nozzle:gcode': jinja2.exceptions.UndefinedError: 'bucket_start' is undefined i thing something is missing in de marco
How are u able to get that far back with the Toolhead. I have the Brush too but i barely reach the front of the Brush so it does not clean that well. What have i todo?
Bambu owners after two years "man that thing is annoying. It flings the poop everywhere when printing PETG". Voron owners be like "allright ... let's copy that sucker" 😂.
I didn't understand how this cleaner helps. Ok you've pushed some filament, cooled the nozzle, removed the filament. But as soon as you you heat it up again some of the filament will go down the nozzle just because of the gravity. And you actually need to clean the nozzle the second before it starts printing, otherwise is dirty again.
no its not stupid ... this is meant to clean the nozzle for probing with nozzle probes like tap, before the print right after probing and meshing it dosent matter anymore cause you print a purge anyways that gets rid of filament
I have the Decontaminator setup on my LDO V2.4 300, and I rarely use it because it seems to cause as many problems with bits of plastic stuck to the nozzle as it fixes. It was worth adding for the sheet stops alone though. I have not found the screws to be prone to bending, however I printed the parts out of PC carbon fiber, and I turned the screws in as far as they would go and still have the heads catch the sheet, so I don't have screw heads protruding above the level of the sheet. Looks like you used an LDO kit... LDO uses a slightly thicker aluminum bed than the standard Voron spec calls for, so they have a modified version of the Decontaminator parts with the sheet stop mounts raised in height to match. If you are using the original version of the printed parts, then this could be why you have had issues with the screws bending, since they would be protruding out from the parts more, and thus be more prone to bend. IIRC there is a link to the modified parts on LDO's printed parts guide. However there is another issue with the LDO modified parts. They raised the height of the sheet stops, but they don't appear to have raised the height of the brass brush to match. This leads to the brush being essentially level with the bed, so you have to be pretty careful when setting the height and Y position of the nozzle when it wipes (depending on what hot end you are using), to ensure that you don't contact one of the sheet stop screws or even the bed. With the wide nozzles used by the Revo hot end, I had a pretty narrow envelope in which it could wipe; this might not be the case with other hot ends.
PTFE. Can withstand 250 degrees Celsius before breaking down. Besides, it only touches the nozzle for around 3 seconds max per nozzle cleaning. Definitely not enough for the ptfe to heat up to that high of a temperature
The hotend is cooled to either 150c or room temp first. And in the Bambu lab printers it doesn’t even cool down first during filament changes and swipes across the ptfe tube. The momentary contact with the tube is no where near enough time for it to heat up anything close to temps for it to start breaking down.
