Upgrading the Voron 

Totally agree, love how it all came together and turned out.

Yes, should be a quick one. I'll update the video description once I created a repo.

@@scheffield any update? Planning on doing some upgrade/maintenience on my 2.4 this week and would like to change from the brass brush to this

Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U1onfGroUJI.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner

There has been rumours about an X1 Max. That might be the right one for you when it becomes reality.

I do love the idea of it all being open and customisable, is your voron reliable, does it print really well 95 % of the time, or are you constantly fiddling with the thing to get it running correctly. ? @@scheffield

Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U1onfGroUJI.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner

Could be but I ultimately think the new Galileo 2 extruder did the trick.

Your slicer should juat call the print start macro from your printer.cfg, that way you control everything from a single source. Heres mine, if it helps: # Use PRINT_START for the slicer starting script [gcode_macro PRINT_START] gcode: {% set EXTRUDER_TEMP = first_layer_temperature|default(220)|float %} {% set BED_TEMP = first_layer_bed_temperature|default(65)|float %} EXCLUDE_OBJECT_DEFINE M140 S{BED_TEMP} ; start bed heating SET_PIN PIN=caselight VALUE=0.50 ; turns on overhead lights to 50% G32 ; home all axes G90 ; absolute positioning M83 ; extruder relative mode M190 S{BED_TEMP} ; wait for bed to reach temperature BED_MESH_CALIBRATE ; Runs a mesh bed calibration--referance Adaptive_Mesh.cfg G1 Z20 F3000 ; move nozzle away from bed Smart_Park ; part of the KAMP system. Parks head near edge of mesh for final heading. M104 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; start extruder heating M109 S{EXTRUDER_TEMP} ; wait for extruder to reach temperature SET_LED LED="headlight" RED=0 GREEN=0 BLUE=0 WHITE=0.5137 SYNC=0 TRANSMIT=1 ; turn on headlight to 131

Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U1onfGroUJI.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner

Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U1onfGroUJI.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner

You could have a softening script. The old tazbots used the nozzle to touch off on the metal corners of the bed, they would heat up just enough to make the plastic malleable before homing and not interfere with probing

Just made a video explaining the cleaner a bit more in detail and how the macro works: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-U1onfGroUJI.html In case you want to jump straight into it: github.com/scheffield/nozzle-cleaner

I'm really keen to build an ERCF but I'm a bit intimidated by it. Also, I would want to encase the filament for moisture management, not sure that's possible.

@@scheffield It is, with exception of the retraction slack spool. Should be fine for even the most hydroscopic filaments like CF Nylons

Yeah Bambu scares me bro 🤣

How do you know its better if you don't even own a bambu 😂. I have both and the bambu x1c just works. Stop being a white knight and enjoy the hobby.

@@jamesm3268 because I have used Bamboo printers, it was aggravating. I tried to setup a time lapse system using a dslr so we could make 8k time lapses, something extremely simple with klipper, slightly harder with marlin, apparently completely impossible on Bamboo. That coupled with the recall of the A1 resulting in people not having a printer for up to a year, tells me that the "never doesn't work" printer is not worth it at all.