Watch the restoration of a 1952 Ferguson TED20 Petrol/TVO with this video diary of the project. I hope to learn from others, through comments and suggestions you leave for me, and I also hope I might be able to share a few good ideas and techniques with you too. I upload between one and two videos a week.
Hi alforbes, thanks for your comment. We are avid fans of Lance at Bundy Bears Shed, that’s no secret. I am not an expert and have never professed to be. Instead I’m a hobbyist sharing my experiences and progress with this restoration.
Hi Brian, thank you. The property is 3 acres, including the house and garden. It is divided into a number of paddocks and areas, but the garden is pretty “open plan”.
G Day Gordon, The tractor looks good, I reckon when you paint you go paint blind, there always seems to be a shadow that you miss, well I do anyhow. I often walk away or get Judy to come and tell me where I miss. There is always somewhere.
Hi Lance, yes absolutely! It’s been a few days now and I’m still finding little spots that need touching up 🤣 I am however extremely happy with the overall result! 👍. I’ll get it all buttoned up this week and get to reassembling. So close now I can smell it! 😉👍
G’day Lance, I seriously considered just replacing the second one, but I’m eager to have a go at doing a repair. If I mess it up then I know I can just buy a replacement 🤣😉👍
Thank you Michell. It has come out very nice. I am now rushing to get all the wheels painted so I can get it out in the sun! I think it will look even better! 😉🙂👍
Mine also have that ridge that you can see, I don't know why it's there. Your wings are much better than mine, it's Taking forever to fix just one, I hope to upload another video soon of the final weld on the first wing. Great video thanks for posting.
😱 that’s a good trick! 😂 I’m not sure how or why that would happen. I expect the crankshaft is biased to only run in one direction. Did you get it running okay? What was your diagnosis?
Great video! I have a 2022 Stiga Estate 384 M with the same type of adjusters on the deck but i dont have any level ground to do this job so i just measured the same milimeter from the top of the bolt on the adjusters and down to the edge on the top nut on them with a caliper and got it level that way.
obviously a great series obviously informative and obvious appreciate your obvious experience on the obviously iconic ted20 - many thanks obvioiusly Nick😃
I’ve always enjoyed your low-key presentation style Gordon. All of you future projects sound fine to me. That said, I am currently developing five acres of old pasture in the middle of nowhere Saskatchewan - I’d be interested in more property focused videos along with the shop stuff. Regards
Hi Brian, thank you for your kind words and encouragement. Wow! 5 acres in the middle of nowhere Saskatchewan sounds amazing right now! 😂😂 I’ll be sure to slip in a few of the property projects then as well! 😉👍 Good luck with your project too!
Looking forward to some new projects Gordon, any tips you can give on ride on mowers would be of great assistance (I always have problems with mine) and I've got some old troublesome trailers too!
Hi George, sounds like we may be kindred spirits 🤣 Thanks for the encouragement. I’m really excited about this evolution. Thanks for your continued support. 👍😉
Great video but I thing there might be a little mistake. The weaker spring has to go on the bottom shoe, so the master shoe runs away from the anchor pin and the slave runs against it, so you get a servo effect and you have to make sure that the master comes in action first. The movement of the drum will catch the bottom shoe first and that one will engage the top one even more with the movement of the adjuster. Btw, even the manual says nothing about how far the selflocking nut on the centraliser pin has to go. They say 2 to three turns and later that the washer should be turned by had, a wide range of options😜 Great video👍 Cheers, Dirk
Hi Dirk, thanks for your insight I knew I had a 50% chance of getting it wrong 😑 🤣. I will check it again and correct it during the reassembly after painting. 👍😉 Yea the manual is helpful but not always entirely complete 😂
Hi there. Not sure about the actual part number but these are the ones I used. www.ebay.co.uk/itm/185502091458?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wWJ9ztuQRi2&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=I-jYz-cHQ4u&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Hi! Did u have a video for changing the 3 seals of the timing casing both because I have a 2 big leaks here and I have no idea how to remove the little one of the gouvernor
Hi Vince, sorry I don’t. I didn’t need to replace mine as it was still fine. Lance @ Bundybears shed did one a few years ago. I’ll see if I can find it.
Great video - found this really useful to review the brakes on my Alpina/ Stiga mower. My brakes did not actually work at all. I have thoroughly cleaned up the brakes pads and disc. They disc was glazed. The brakes now provide some level of retardation but they are very poor. I will try to adjust the lever on the staft and see if I can improve their stopping power. I have never owned a sit on mower before and I have had this from new and the brakes have never been good - wondering if all these mowers suffer with terrible brakes?
Hi Peter, sadly I think this might be the case. The brakes on mine are only now working properly after going through them properly. If your disc is glazed you can try to remove the glazing with some emery cloth and water or oil. Just don’t go too heavy on them. Afterwards be sure to clean it thoroughly with some brake cleaner. I find eBay is a good place to find replacement parts if you decide you need to replace it. 👍😉
Thanks for this video. I have exactly the same set up as you, the same press and the same part stuck, stuck so solid that i was going to give up. Then i saw this it inspired to to carry on. A lot more heat a big hammer and a few hours later it came apart. Job done thankyou
I’m glad to hear it isn’t just me! 🤣 Well done for persevering, heat is definitely the “secret sauce”, of course it’s no real secret, really. Just amazing how much it needs! Now you can proceed with the rest of the job! 😉👍
Nothing is Better that a good mower 😊 I allso Think that you have a big garden as well.. good you do a good service to your machine ...if its possible you can do the blades /knife allso ... spring is allso here to norway now ...first day outside in garage now ...finally .. Michell norway ..chears 🚜👍😊
Hi Michell, yes the weather seems to finally be improving! 😊 The grass is growing wildly, so it is good to have the mower ready to go! Next week’s video deals with the blades and the cutting deck. 👍😉
Hi Farmer Phil, it was awhile ago now, but I do recall it being a bit of a struggle to find these. I believe in the end I found these at a local tractor and garden equipment repair shop. Sadly they are no longer operating. I will try to remember to measure the pipe on Saturday and message you again. The fittings will need to be “sized” to the pipe, once we’ve identified that.
Ideally you should never reuse spring washers, of any type. But I admit that if the washer looks good then I will reuse it too. I feel for you with that. Normally, as you tried, you drive the key out by hitting the end with a hammer and chisel. As it is a half moon it should roll out. If not then heat it red hot then bash it out. Hopefully it’s not welded.
So far I’ve been impressed. I feel you’ve been a bit anal as this is not rocket science BUT. You haven’t got long enough studs. What you have done goes against engineering safety and security. It would be best to have at least flat washers but the main deficiency is that the studs should protrude from the nuts at a minimum of one and a half threads to ensure the nut, tightened properly, will not loosen.
Well done Oscar/Gordon, I’ve followed you near enough from day one, just by chance I caught one of your early videos. That’s a great achievement to see the TED start & run after all that work. You worked through all the issues that cropped up, now it just needs to go to paint. My TED is still in the garage after starting 2 years ago, I still need to find that extra day in the week. Cheers, Paul. Cheam, Surrey.
Thanks Paul, it has been an amazing journey. Paint prep is underway, as soon as we get that fortnight aka “Summer” we’ll start laying down some paint! 😉🤣
Bearings are made to a set size. So the users design their machines to accept the bearing dimensions not the other way round. If the dimensions you measure are different then it is not a Timkin 3984 but another number. That washer is a Thackeray washer. Quite common. Water often gets into the transmission. Through the gear lever and dip stick. I would imagine your oil was milky coloured. But you were doing good.
That is a tab washer and is used normally inside motors. You bend one over the nut and the other tab over a fixed part. Obviously they had to use whatever parts they had at the time.
To test the dynamo it self you take the belt off, and supply batteri to both terminals on it. If it runs slowly like an engine it ok. Thats also the way to magnetise it.
Always polarise generator before doing ANY tests. Also instead of a piece of wire between D and F. I always use an AMMETER. You should be seeing 2 AMPS as your field resistance is 6.1-6.4 ohms. Also a lucas generator will take a maximum of 8500 revs, but 1500-2000 is adequate. 😊
Good stuff, great to see that chapter finished. Yep, the oil gauge should be lhs. I've done all the painting before assembly and can confirm that it's a laborious job, especially if you're doing each bit individually rather than just blowing paint over everything assembled. I used the wife's old plastic greenhouse as a makeshift spray booth set up in the garage - worked well and had lots of space for hanging bits and pieces from. Ref your process for prep, and given you have already undercoated /primed, you might be better off wiping down with a solvent eg IPA rather than degreaser /wash as you might end up inadvertently leaving more residues that will get in the way of the paint.
Super Nice to See Oliver and you driving with the fergie ..😊🚜 and it went so well . About last video I Think that you dont have to be Worry About getting temp/heat so engine block so termostat will open so you can See/check all .. my TEF20 take 1 hour off driving to get warm and 1,5hours off driving before block ..bellhousing ..coolent and everything to get about 87 degree .. so it takes time but you Will get there when juse and drive it ..😊😊🚜👍 there is a lot off mass to heat up .. Thanks for the updates and video .. 😊Michell norway ..
Well done Oscar, great driving! It's great that you've got her going so soon after her first start. Looking forward to the paintwork and thank you Gordon for keeping going with these great and informative videos.
Great to see the everything coming together! Regarding the oil gauge - my ‘53 TEA has an original dealer installed unit in the left gauge hole. As far as I can tell Canadian TEAs were shipped from Coventry with only a temperature gauge installed on the right side of the dash.
Hi Brian, thank you that’s very useful to know. I’ve been looking at some pictures and so far it seems that the oil pressure is almost always on the left side. 👍😉
