you have to up it by more than 1 gauge, you have to up the wiring by a % of the diameter of the wire. i feel like the 1 gauge comment upsize would get you into some issue with people who are say, using aluminum service entrance wiring. the rule of thumb is 56% difference larger in aluminum versus copper. it's pretty sad that they cheaped out a couple hundred bucks on a $400k home for inferior wiring.
On this timer I believe you just hold down the up or down arrow and you will see the numbers on the screen scroll to the off position. There will be two or four “off” positions in the 24 hours.
It breaks very easily. I had two outlets go out already in new construction. While replacing them, the wires snapped where the previous electrician had stripped the plastic housing. He had cut thru the thin copper. So at that weak point, the wire had snapped. Not safe. Now, I’m worried about checking every connection they did.
Interesting. Was the old connection made around the screw of the outlet or was it pushed in? One tip to install an outlet could be to use ideal three way push in connectors and carefully strip the wire. Then use a piece of 14 awg copper the push into one slot and use the other two slots for the 12 awg copper clad aluminum. They also make a blue push in connector that could work for 10 awg copper clad aluminum. Are you located in the Phoenix metro area? If the house is less than two years old the builder should still be responsible for all electrical issues.
You probably have the older style orbit timer where there are two sections of the dial. One for A and one for B. In that case I would search for a video detailing that specific type of timer. You would have to program it an entirely different way so that the timer knows which stations belong to A,B, and which belong to both. The manual may be available online if you search orbit 57…. Timer manual.
is this at your house? or a golf course? you gotta have a decent sized pump to run one of these. These are one of my favorite rotors next to the 81 Rainbird which is much larger.
@@Noahcastaneda8862 you need the correct pressure and flow to run one of these. These cannot run off a garden hose. These are meant to cover large distances between heads. I tried to run one of these off a hose and it didn't even popup, just spat water out. I dont think you could run this off a gravity fed system, a pump is required to get the correct pressure to pop it up.
@@Noahcastaneda8862 I don't have a spec sheet handy for these, but when I ran mine, i have a SE2UL e950 Pacer pump thats 195GPM and 50PSI 2" in and out and i used a pond for the water source and it got out pretty far. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Zz-Wgr8L-LY.html. this is the same sprinkler running on 2 of them in series.
Okay. When you use a wire nut on copper clad, it will cut into the copper layer on the outside, which then exposes the aluminum. Doesn't sound like a good idea to me.
Copper clad from everything I researched lately is required to be at least 10% copper. When they clad they aluminum it is welded to the aluminum in a vacuum which creates a psudo brass chemical bond between the copper and aluminum. At this point I’ve seen no evidence that a standard wire nut would damage it enough to reach the aluminum. The biggest issue I’ve seen is improperly sized and wrong box fills.
That is a Rainbird 51 Popup impact rotor. The front nozzle is a combo drive/spreader nozzle for close in coverage and the rear is a range nozzle for getting far out. Used in turf/golf course etc.
Great video, thanks for creating and sharing. Scary how cheap some home builders are, just to save a few pennies. Absolutely ridiculous I'd be really upset to find this in home I purchased. Thanks for the heads-up, This is very valuable information. I had no idea this stuff was hitting the building scene. .
I found my house (from the 70s) has copper clad aluminum, I recently started to go through and replace all my outlets and switches... I HATE IT! it's 10 gauge all over the place, making proper wire nut install harder for pigtails and such... I had 1 box pull off the stud inside the wall because it's so hard to get it to push back into the box!
Yeah that can definitely be a challenge. A lot of houses built in Sun City AZ in the 70s also have cca. One tip I can give is that if you’re trying to pigtail every outlet don’t. Doing that is not going to improve the functionality in any way and make it super hard to work with the wires. An outlet with four wires properly and tightly attached to the screws will be just as safe and work just as well as one with pigtails. Pigtails are not impervious either. Wire nuts fail too. So just try to bend nice loops in the 10 gauge wire and wrap them around the screws. Then try to put a fold in the wires before trying to push them back. And if a outlet box seems loose you can always shoot a drywall screw through it into the adjacent stud. Hope this helps you change your devices.
@@everythinghomerepair1747 yeah ok, that makes sense. I had to put 2 drywall screws into the one box to hold it so I could get things back in it. It came completely loose, and in that box the wire nut they used to connect the half hot wires, was kind of loose also, so I tightened it more as well before putting things back in. You can’t get a good twist in the wires, where they kind of hold themselves… just to thick and stiff. I’m thinking about maybe using some wago 221-612 or 613s in place of wire nuts in places that seem iffy… but I don’t think they want to recommend them with copper clad or maybe any aluminum wire or any kind… (the one response I got so far was, we don’t make anything for that)
@@Revvek I would not expect them to be made specifically for copper clad aluminum. Most regular wire nuts or outlets are not listed for it either. That does not mean you can’t use them though. The manufacturer of the actual wire itself has asserted that any connections listed for use with copper with also work on CCA. I would have no issue with the WAGOs and if they have a WAGO for 10 gauge I would go ahead and use it. Hope this helps.
Copper clad wires break if you nick the wire when striping the wire with wire striping tool...I found it's better to strip with razor knife so not to nick the wire...that was big problem with aluminum wire back in the days aluminum wire was used..
Well now you know what to check for. You will limit yourself a lot because most homes- at least where I live -have aluminum 240 volt lines for the A/C and electric stove.
Awesome. Like it or not, Aluminum and Copper clad Aluminum is making a comeback so we best get used to it. Personally I would not be afraid to purchase an early 1970s home with aluminum branch circuit wiring. I would however, definitely make sure it's been repaired with Alumniconn connectors. You see, aluminum wiring got a bad reputation for many years, and there's some truth to that. The older aluminum alloy, 1350, sometimes called old technology aluminum wiring, was used until about 1972, afterwards the industry changed to 8000 AL, (Copper-Clad began to appear during this time) which is used today for the main service wires, and often for the range, electric furnace and central air conditioner as well as subpanel feeders, sometimes referred to as new technology aluminum wiring, this has superior properties compared to 1350 AL. A general rule of thumb is, if a home was built in or had a renovation that involved adding more circuits during the Vietnam War, there's a strong possibility at least some of the circuits are aluminum, probably the 1350AL. Aluminum wiring was never recalled, existing stock was permitted to be used up, so in some cases you might see aluminum wiring used into the late 1970s or early 1980s, but this would be rare.
You’re correct. I’ve even been seeing aluminum used as 30 amp dryer circuits in new houses. Water heaters also. There’s a video here on RU-vid that shows a home inspector finding aluminum branch wiring in a 1980 house. So don’t rule it out because a house was built in the late 70s or early 80s.
My house uses AL wiring, and I've been using Alumiconns, problem for me is that they are very expensive, and its good to preinspect them to make sure they have antiox in them. I've had some lugs with no antiox or a small amount in them. I started using WAGOS using OXGARD (wago recommends their antiox) inside of them, and they have been working great. Wagos are a lot cheaper and they give you more room to work with in box. I also put electrical tape around the wago to keep the levers closed, and away from air.
@@panemon187 i wanted to use Wagos in my house with copper clad AL. but they are rated to 12 guage, and most of the wire I have found so far is 10! are you using a different wago for 10?
@@Revvek Yes, WAGO now has a splicing connector for 10AWG with the 221-61X series. They also have in-line splicers, but not yet for 10AWG yet. It also may not be a bad idea for you to fill your wago with some antiox paste if you're going to use copper clad AL. I don't know much about CU clad AL, but I do know that AL conductor can expand under load and that CU and AL together without antiox can cause oxidation, which can cause heat buildup due to lack of conductivity. (AL oxide becomes non-conductive) (Wago has their own proprietary antiox they recommend, but I've been able to use generic brand antiox that works just fine.) I also like to wrap about 3 windings of colored electrical tape to color code my pigtails (black for hot, white for neutral, green for ground) and to prevent the levers from opening up accidently (which has happened to me a couple times)
They wired the kitchen, bathroom- and all the 20 amp circuits with #10. Also most outlets and switches I’ve seen can accept up to #10 under the screws. Keep in mind that cca is very soft so it’s nothing like #10 copper.
