Uzumaki Garage is an independent automotive series I created to share techniques I use to build & maintain Japanese cars. I mostly build JDM classics like the Mitsubishi Evo and the Honda DC2R Integra but I am interested in many cars. I'm not a qualified mechanic, I enjoy taking on new tasks I haven't done before and share what I learn.
Disclaimer: The videos on this channel are for entertainment purposes only. Do Not Copy what I do in my videos. Use the information I share in my videos "AT YOUR OWN RISK". Uzumaki Garage accepts no responsibility or liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any use of the information contained in this video channel. Uzumaki Garage makes no representation and assumes no responsibility to the accuracy of information on this channel. Working on cars is dangerous and can cause serious injury to you or someone else. I share what I do but I'm not suggesting I have done it correctly.
You don't have to drain 100% of the coolant from the engine as almost all of it comes out thru the radiator drain plug with the radiator cap removed. The little bleeder valve in the thermostat should allow the coolant to drain from the the thermostat housing without removing the thermostat too (if you are not replacing the thermostat). A small amount of coolant will remain in the throttle body, the turbo housing & hoses and the heater core in the cabin. You could flush it out the system with demineralised water if you want to, but I just change the coolant more often than the service interval suggests instead.
Thats cool. I've only printed some e6 pages as my printer is not much good. I often read the Evo 4 & 5 service manuals too. But I wish they were all as comprehensive as the Evo 7 manual. Download that one too if you haven't already, but be careful as some torque values are different to the CP9A.
Thanks for the encouragement @tybgycfmb8697 its really appreciated. Yeah I don't understand why my videos don't get pushed out to more viewers. Maybe because I can't pay money for their promotion? This video has had less than 200 views and I see another similar video on YT, with the exact same title, has had 5.5 Million views. I might change my title now as a test. Its getting harder and harder to get Views or Subscribers on RU-vid. I get 10 times the views on IG. Oh well, I'll keep trying to make better content that people will want to see. Cheers
I got these binders from FB marketplace from when a dealership closed down. All the old info in them is not relevant to my Mitsubishis but I will print my PDF service manuals to go in these folders. I can't bring myself to throw out the old stuff though. What Mitsubishi do you own @thedude777OP ?
Now for a video on the rears too. They differ between 5 and 7 seaters. 5 seat have bearing in the drum. I replaced the drum with new aftermarket and new bearings so it was a bolt on affair 😉
Haha Yes I should at least check the rear brakes too and I'll film that when I do. That's interesting the rear brakes are different between the Cube and Cubic. I remember when I installed my coilover suspension i found out there's a difference between the Cube and Cubic front hubs/knuckles too so you need to use a specific coilover which has a clevis bracket that matches the knuckles bolt hole spacing. Annoying when car makers do this sort of thing.
From memory the bolt part is just original part coming up from the OEM upper control arm into chassis and that's what goes thru the OEM strut brace. And the nuts are Honda Part: 90215SB0003 I might have a better photo of it, I will look tomorrow.
@@robfants hey thanks very much Rob. I haven’t made much content this year but Im making an effort to make more over the next few months. Hope you are doing ok. Cheers
Thanks Daniel. Yes its a good way to save money if you are confident in your abilities and have a few tools so you can do it properly. Haynes Service Manuals are still a great resource if you're willing to learn and have a go. Always remembering that functioning brakes are important to stay alive :)
Nice work and video! I'm working on a EVO 8 brembo brake video myself. One thing worth checking is that the caliper floats freely on the caliper mounting bracket. If the inside pad is worn way more than the outside(or vise versa), its usually because the caliper was not able to float properly. You didn't seem to have that issue, but something worth point out to people.
Thanks! Yes, that would have been a good thing to include but I didn't even think of checking the caliper was floating properly. The lower guide bolt head was damaged too and I didn't have a spare, so I didn't aggressively remove it and check it was greased properly either. Another thing that would've been interesting to show would have been checking the disc runout with my dial indicator gauge. I bet it was crazy runout. I look forward to your Evo 8 brake video. Cheers :)
Hey Robert. you could try soaking the end of the bellows in very hot water first to soften up the rubber. Are you using genuine factory parts? or aftermarket? Make sure you have the correct part too as I was sent incorrect bellows once and I could not get them on no matter how hard I tried. Way too tight! These Honda bellows pushed onto the rack quite easily
@@UzumakiGarage Luckily I had the rack out of the car. I put it in the vise, sucked up the pain and got it on. All OEM as far as I know. Glad I didn't have to do it under the car. Took me 10 tries. 9 giving up and 1 it's going on no matter what.
Hey Rog. Thanks man. I put the silencer thing in the exhaust tip for a while but I don't drive it much so I pulled it so it's screaming loud again nowadays. One day I want a titanium exhaust for it :)
This is the best video I have found for replacing the steering rack boot. The amount of detail was perfect, and the technique to preserve the alignment is very effective. I completed this today on my 2017 Ram 1500. The alignment preservation seemed to work very well. On a test drive following the boot replacement, steering feel was good. Going on a straight stretch, the steering wheel seemed to be a little off center., very slightly to the right. It may have been that way "before", I did not do a pre-evaluation. Anyway, I'll probably get the alignment checked. I had two minor challenges through the replacement process. The scariest one was when I tried to loosen the jam nut. It was super tight and I really struggled to break it loose. I ended up adding some pipe extensions to the two wrenches, the extra leverage was enough to break loose the stuck nut. The other thing was after I installed the new boot, rethreaded the jam nut, and started to rethread the tie rod into the tie rod end, I notice the new boot was twisting. I had used a zip tie at the large end and reused the metal clamp at the outboard small end. These were apparently tight enough to keep the new boot from slipping. So I took the metal clamp off and the small end was able to rotate freely. I even remembered to put he clamp back on after the rethreading was completed. After a bit when I saw it dangling there. Very happy with this methodology, it was doable and not too extremely difficult! Thanks for making this video available!
Thanks very much for the positive feedback Dan. The "wheel alignment preservation technique" is to keep the alignment similar to before so you can drive your vehicle to an alignment specialist (without causing excessive tyre wear) to check the alignment, or to check adjust it yourself using the string alignment method. I find it very annoying when my steering wheel isn't straight when driving in a straight line, but it won't take much to sort that out. I can imagine the Ram 1500 has very large tie rods and jam nuts. I would love to own a big RAM truck but they are very expensive here in Australia.
Thanks man. I got it a few years ago from eBay Australia but it was originally from a Mitsubishi Dealership in Australia. It was still brand with Tags attached until I put it on for this video :) I appreciate all comments too as it helps my channel grow apparently. cheers from Australia
The CT9A is definitely different to the CP9A. I'm not sure about the CE9A models tho. If you send me your VIN I can look it up but as yours is on the other side to mine I think they would not be compatible. Ahh I see you have an Evo II. That is so cool!
It's the same era as the car I did the replacement on, in the video, so it's very likely. I'm not familiar with the Pathfinder but if you send me some photos of your steering boot setup I might be able to tell. You can send photos to my Instagram or Facebook channels. cheers Andy
Sorry I didn't document it well either as I was figuring out the procedure as I was doing the job, so my video footage was messy. So, especially on the 4 piston calipers its really important to remove all the pistons evenly and gradually in a controlled manner. I used some blocks of wood and plywood shims of similar size to the brake pads only thicker so when I add compressed air to the brake fluid port the pistons are restricted in the distance they can come out. About 1/4' (5mm) at a time is good, then remove a shim and apply air again, and again. You need to get all pistons to come out evenly because if 1 or more pistons pop out before all of them are almost out you will lose all air pressure and have to slide the pistons back in temporarily to try again. Several old brake pads might make good shims. Don't add high pressure air and don't put your fingers in there as you could get seriously hurt with a broken or trapped finger, wear a face shield too! I think about 30psi is recommended but seriously be careful. I had to crank the psi a bit higher. Re-installing pistons is possible if they prematurely pop out but they need to be perfectly straight and lubed up, if they don't slide back in without force wiggle it out and get the angle straight and try again. The seals come out pretty easy but try not to use a metal pick as if you scratch the piston or caliper its probably game over.
@@UzumakiGarage I appreciate the reply. Still good information for me to have as I was initially thinking they could just be pulled out. I may take on this job soon with a spare set of evo 8 Bembos and was wanting to do some homework ahead of time.
@@BoostedFilms It's really not a difficult job for someone with your skills. I probably go into too much detail when trying to explain things. The other idea I thought of this morning is to use a brake pad spreader sitting inside the caliper to restrict the movement of the pistons when compressed air is applied. Then gradually back off the spreader to allow the pistons to come out (if that makes sense) I really wish I had filmed it properly but I think that was my first video.
@@UzumakiGarage Hi, yes I have a Mazda and in one and a half weeks I get a Mitsubishi Lancer EVO VII additionally, I'm absoloutely exited and can't await it :D
@@UzumakiGarage Okay, why not, I'll make good vids of both cars than, I promise, could you maybe show some videos of the EVO VII as well, I'd appreciate it :)
sorry for the late reply. I need to get my evo VI on the dyno for a check up too as it was tuned long before I bought and restored it. I need to check if the tune is good and safe. Did you get your evo yet?
Thanks mate. I might paint the floor with epoxy when the weather warms up. So cold ATM and its only going to get worse in the coming months. Hard to make videos now too
@@UzumakiGarage you know I did most of my work during our winter. I put a little space heater in the garage. I find it much easier than when it's sweltering hot with high humidity.
Haha true. When I restored my TME it was mostly through winter and I was outside all day every day even if the maximum temp was 5 degrees celsius. Working on Mechanicals mostly and restoration while waiting for warmer days to start spray painting in my "booth". Thanks for giving this Short video a boost, its getting more popular now thanks to you :)
Hey Danny. Yes I did, but I think I could've just used only the Lithium NLGI2 grease instead of complicating things by adding rubber grease to the actual bellows.
Thanks very much Richard! and you're welcome mate. I always found that removing a tie rod end from the Hub/knuckle was difficult and risked damaging the tie rod end boot. When I worked out there was a better way I had to share. :) What car are you working on?
I'm working on a 2004 Ford Focus C-max 2L diesel in the UK. I was also worried about causing damage. I'm self taught and videos like yours and Haynes manuals are a great help. Saves me a fortune doing repairs myself 😊
Thanks for sharing Andy , I’ve had my car for about 18 years and I’m finally pulling the wing off this afternoon, I’m terrified of what I might find given the metal supports rust and no longer available, although the cars been in Australia since new and has virtually no rust in it. The spoiler has been a bit wobbly and rattles for years and slowly getting worse. We’ll see.
Good luck mate. It might be that all the double sided tape and foam has crumbled away and that might be causing the extra wobble. Someone recently started making the metal internal brackets in stainless if i remember correctly. So if yours aren't healthy you have a great option now
Thanks, After being in place for 24 something years getting it off was a brutal exercise, even with using fishing line and a collection of plastic spatulas. Luckily the metal structure doesn’t appear to be rusted thankfully. I could only remove 3 of the 4 inner screws that appear to hold the lower blade on, and couldn’t remove any of the 4 large flat screws (it felt like any more pressure would destroy the screw head, despite applying a penetrating oil twice a day for 2 weeks). I’m surprised by the lack of info online, or that no one has done a detailed video showing the full breakdown of every component. I’m normally ok with this type of stuff but this time I was beat, cracked the shits and gave it to a panel shop (as the spoiler was minor accident damaged anyway) I’ll see how they go…. BTW you were right about the foam strips breaking down causing extra wobble, the paint on the boot lid was worn through to the metal where the vertical pieces touches on the inner, and under the common cracking points on the back outer. This will just be touched up as I don’t want to respray over the good original factory paint. Cheers.
@@chazkdarwin3875 Yes I had to soak the big flat screws for a long long time using Corrosion X. Then I had to cut a new slot in some of them with Dremel tool or angle grinder (can't remember) I think an Impact Screw driver was used to release them. Lucky i had spare screws to replace them too. Yes its a big job with lots of steps, probably why not many people make DIY videos.
I have a stock evo 7. Do I still need to install oil catch cans or not? I personally think only if I'm modding it to past stock HP then I might need it.
If its a stock 2.0L engine you don't need a catch can. The valve cover breathes enough back thru the turbo inlet and also via the PCV to the inlet manifold.
It works on my Japanese Hondas and Mitsubishi cars. I wont say it works on all cars but i bet it works on most cars that use this style of steering rack.
How far by hand should the fuel line be seeded into the filter? And the threads do I cover the nozzle that the fuel comes out and then tighten it down or send the nozzle into the filter first then tighten?
I don't fully understand your questions and its been a few years since the last time I was doing this job but you should be able to screw the fuel pipe fitting quite a few turns into the filter by hand. Thats important so you don't damage the pipe fitting threads. Then I keep this pipe fitting quite loose while screwing the bracket bolt onto the chassis (again by hand) to get it aligned correctly, then i gradually take turns tightening the pipe fitting and mounting bolt a bit at a time.
It depends on how thoroughly you want do the job as to how many parts you want to replace. Also the part numbers sometimes change and sometimes you can upgrade the parts for example you can use the more modern evo 9 timing belt tensioner and the evo 9 kevlar timing belt. Mitsubishi part numbers often change too. Probably best to use your VIN and search thru the parts diagrams on partsouq.com and decide how much you want to replace. I like to replace the water pump and crank angle sensor etc while its all dismantled too
Great idea although I do have one question, why did you select 150mm for the length? I took a look at my floor jack (that came with the car) and its length is more like 40mm.
