This is the best video I have found for replacing the steering rack boot. The amount of detail was perfect, and the technique to preserve the alignment is very effective. I completed this today on my 2017 Ram 1500. The alignment preservation seemed to work very well. On a test drive following the boot replacement, steering feel was good. Going on a straight stretch, the steering wheel seemed to be a little off center., very slightly to the right. It may have been that way "before", I did not do a pre-evaluation. Anyway, I'll probably get the alignment checked. I had two minor challenges through the replacement process. The scariest one was when I tried to loosen the jam nut. It was super tight and I really struggled to break it loose. I ended up adding some pipe extensions to the two wrenches, the extra leverage was enough to break loose the stuck nut. The other thing was after I installed the new boot, rethreaded the jam nut, and started to rethread the tie rod into the tie rod end, I notice the new boot was twisting. I had used a zip tie at the large end and reused the metal clamp at the outboard small end. These were apparently tight enough to keep the new boot from slipping. So I took the metal clamp off and the small end was able to rotate freely. I even remembered to put he clamp back on after the rethreading was completed. After a bit when I saw it dangling there. Very happy with this methodology, it was doable and not too extremely difficult! Thanks for making this video available!
Thanks very much for the positive feedback Dan. The "wheel alignment preservation technique" is to keep the alignment similar to before so you can drive your vehicle to an alignment specialist (without causing excessive tyre wear) to check the alignment, or to check adjust it yourself using the string alignment method. I find it very annoying when my steering wheel isn't straight when driving in a straight line, but it won't take much to sort that out. I can imagine the Ram 1500 has very large tie rods and jam nuts. I would love to own a big RAM truck but they are very expensive here in Australia.
Freaking genius. I never like to separate ball joints if I don't have to. Don't want to risk tearing the boot. This method worked seamlessly on a 95 Accord. Arigato Andy.
When the boot squishes up and the thick part of the steel tie rod slides back and forth thru the boot the grease will minimise wear from the inner tie rod and the boot interaction. Thanks for your comment Sir
Thanks very much Richard! and you're welcome mate. I always found that removing a tie rod end from the Hub/knuckle was difficult and risked damaging the tie rod end boot. When I worked out there was a better way I had to share. :) What car are you working on?
I'm working on a 2004 Ford Focus C-max 2L diesel in the UK. I was also worried about causing damage. I'm self taught and videos like yours and Haynes manuals are a great help. Saves me a fortune doing repairs myself 😊
Thanks for this was extremely helpful doing the left side on my GSi (boot had failed exactly like yours with the end bit torn). The stainless band on mine the tabs were hammered down so tightly I could not prise them up, had to cut it off using a Dremel and cut-off wheel, was just enough room to get the Dremel in at a good angle from above with the bonnet open. Inner ball joint was somehow still mint. Got everything back together and car drives fine except the wheel is now tilted a few degrees to the left when going straight, guessing I will need to get wheel alignment done to fix this?
Nice work getting the job done yourself. Well done! I made another video about DIY wheel alignment on my Integra using builders string. Its not that hard to do but it is a bit frustrating trying to get it “perfect” and getting the steering wheel straight.
@@UzumakiGarage Arigato mate I watched that video too, came here just to find out how to do the boot but planning to watch the rest of the vids on your channel now, good content! In the end I just went by trial and error, I figure if the steering is to the left going straight the wheel I messed with must have toe-in, I shortened the tie rod by a turn and now it is driving straight with the wheel straight so should be good enough until I'm finished working on the suspension
@@milesjcarter oh cool. yes there's no point paying for too many alignments especially when you are still working on it. I hope you find some of my other videos helpful or interesting. I'm always learning and do have fun making them and I think they are improving.
Thanks. Yes all new OEM parts… bellows/boots and clamps. I will add the part numbers to the description soon. No the rack wasn’t leaking so I didn’t remove rack and install a seal kit. Yes I think the rubber bellows perishing over time is normal. 22 years is a good run for a thin rubber boot stretching and squishing over and over.
Great video My question is / can I use a zip tie for the inner bellow instead of the metal strap, also if I did use the metal strap do I need a special pliers to lock it into place. Thanks again
Hey John. Watch the video again from 5:03s where demonstrate how i lever the band to make it very tight but then I use pointy pliers to squeeze the locking tabs together to lock it. (not shown). I then hammer them flat when on the steering rack. A lot of people use zip ties instead of the proper metal band and that might work fine but I like to use the factory parts. But if you use zip ties maybe check it regularly for a while to make sure its staying on properly. I think some kits might only come with zip ties... not sure tho
@@UzumakiGarage I’m sorry to bother you but I have one more simple question Was it difficult to get the inner boot over the rack and pinion . Thanks for your time
@@johnjkizer6399 no bother. I used new genuine parts so they were easy to install. The left and right boots are different part numbers though so if you are having trouble installing one make sure it’s the correct one for that side of the rack. Cheers
Great video .. I subbed~ I have a power steerking leak right now that is not around the pump , it's coming from the rack area. The size of the leaks are about the same as your palm. Do you think the leak is more than likely a hard line that runs in the back of the rack ? If my tie rod boot is also ripped and in the same condition as the one in your video , could power steering fluid leak out from the rack ( if that seal on the steering rack rod is bad ) and exit through the boot? Thanks , I hope that makes sense.
Thank you! yes I think power steering fluid can leak past a seal on the rack and into the boot. Leaks can be tricky to find sometimes though. Is the fluid in the reservoir low? Try degreasing everywhere to make it clean and dry. Clean out or cut off old torn boot. Then with car lifted and tyres off the ground, with engine running, turn steering wheel back and forth like you are bleeding the rack to see if you can locate the leak. good luck. leaks can be painful to find.
It's the same era as the car I did the replacement on, in the video, so it's very likely. I'm not familiar with the Pathfinder but if you send me some photos of your steering boot setup I might be able to tell. You can send photos to my Instagram or Facebook channels. cheers Andy
Hey Danny. Yes I did, but I think I could've just used only the Lithium NLGI2 grease instead of complicating things by adding rubber grease to the actual bellows.
It works on my Japanese Hondas and Mitsubishi cars. I wont say it works on all cars but i bet it works on most cars that use this style of steering rack.
I think they are just to equalise the air pressure between the left and right steering rack boots. Otherwise the boots couldn’t compress and expand freely without popping off rack.
@@UzumakiGarage we’re you able to get a replacement for that line that broke off the bellows boot? If so what’d you use? I’ve been struggling to find the name for it and what to replace mine with. The line that was connected to my passenger side bellow completely disintegrated in my hand when I was trying to remove the bellows to change my inner and our tie rods
@@paulpham3431 hi mate. The barb fitting that was broken off is part of the boot so the new OEM boot has a new barb on it. Just some regular vacuum hose i think would be a good replacement if your old hose is damaged. I was able to use my old hose on the new boots. I dont know if Honda still supplies new hoses for it. Does that make sense?
Hey Robert. you could try soaking the end of the bellows in very hot water first to soften up the rubber. Are you using genuine factory parts? or aftermarket? Make sure you have the correct part too as I was sent incorrect bellows once and I could not get them on no matter how hard I tried. Way too tight! These Honda bellows pushed onto the rack quite easily
@@UzumakiGarage Luckily I had the rack out of the car. I put it in the vise, sucked up the pain and got it on. All OEM as far as I know. Glad I didn't have to do it under the car. Took me 10 tries. 9 giving up and 1 it's going on no matter what.
