These things work ONLY IF the end of the wire you are looking for is DISCONNECTED from the circuit. It will act like an antenna in this case, otherwise its will send the signal down and fade away. So to find the end of the wire, i have no clue what to disconnect and from where.
Thank you,I own a 2000 750 IL ,now 3 yrs,I bought it as a non runner,after towing to Euro autos works they were be able to restart it after sitting 6-7 years,,now it needs a restart again,I purchased two new batteries,but I’m not getting it to spark 🔥 off,I’m not much of a mechanic.I did use Liquid Molly,and was running nicely ,car sits out side but us very clean,
Two shut offs you are correct. Emergency is the flapper above blower. Regular shut off is the one to use regularly to shut fuel off. The front limiting valve was used back in the day to limit air pressure to the front wheel brakes during wet/icy conditions. You can eliminate that when rebuilding the brake system if you like.
Extended cut the back in off of extended. Put a nice flag red on there. Change zombs those wheels and get some nice crammers. Get a nice car to paint on there. Take them double stacks off and put 2 singles tax in LA D lights on there and the cool push bar pushed bar. A nice steak side you can do with a lyft gate. That drug will be cool but nice of the stacks.
I think you have to clutch the lower hi/lo shifts ? 3rd can be done with the throttle . 5th low to 4th hi can be done without the clutch right before the 5th to 4th upshift
I was talking to that guy in PA who restores old trucks. He said to use the clutch on every transmission shift. He said that it's very obvious what transmissions were shifted with a clutch and without when you open them.
So I’m currently stuck in Reverse, electronically that is! So I was wondering how can I test my solenoids because I don’t really have the money to buy solenoids unless necessary, or if anyone’s figured out inpa I’d greatly appreciate some help with that
Who's we? Who you talkin to about a $200 blast cabinet? Unless I'm mistaken this is my video that I created for others that find interest in it. So yeah I was the one talking not you and whoever "we" is.
If it needs explained for the less educated.. ?? " We " referes to more than one dummy.. !! If you had finished 3rd grade, you would know that.. ?? In the future, just keep your face shut.. ??
It's been just about 11 years. There is some fading on the black but nothing serious. After a bath it still looks good. The white looks totally fine. So does the red.
The wife isn't saying much of anything. This is mine and I paid for it with my money lol. Honestly I don't have issue with my wife complaining about stuff like this. I'd be looking for a new wife if that was my reality lol.
I don't think I checked it with it running, but I did get it up to 96°F and checked it. I used nearly 2 gallons (if those are even 1 gallon containers). When it's cold, it shifts hard and feels like something will break. I'll check it with it running and if fluid comes out, I'll let it run out. If nothing comes out, I'll add more. Another problem I had was determining when the car was level. I thought of several locations to check for level and all of them provided different results. Solution: disregard the body of the car and check the edge of the transmission pan instead. As for the comments suggesting that a minimum amount of fluid is actually changed when you do it this way... You clearly didn't listen to the whole video. Additionally, if this is the first fluid and filter change, I recommend draining the fluid again after about 1k miles. Shouldn't need to drop the pan to do that, but it can't hurt. That's one way to get the remaining fluid flushed out without a pump. From there, change the fluid and filter every 50k miles. Just to be clear, I never had issues out of my transmission. I decided to change the fluid and filter because I know despite BMW's belief in the magic fluid, there is always going to be metal and whatnot in the system due to wear on the moving parts. At 150k miles, I didn't think it was unreasonable to assume it was time to change the fluid and filter. Especially after driving it across the country twice. I've also taken the liberty of changing the timing chain guides and tensioner, which were in good condition, just old.
I watched your video because I'm replacing the convertible top on my 1989 5.0 Mustang. Instead of wood I'll be stapling into a tack strip, which is pretty much a hard plastic material used to attach the canvas top to. Based upon your feedback, I'm going to buy an air compressor and a pneumatic staple gun. Thanks!
How much does it usually run to get this replaced in the shop I Hit the dunes hard yesterday and it’s been bent for awhile after I flipped it but It finally broke off And the arms just hanging
The lower section of the walls is old metal roofing that I had. Above that are sheets of painted OSB. The back trim is 1x6 boards I took off an old raised pool deck that I took down.
