This is my second chance to do what I have always wanted to do in life. Life is fragile and short. I have a second chance and won't settle for shoulda coulda woulda with out trying
excellent instructional video. I'm sure this will help tremendously to get mine sorted. I will, of course, have the additional fun of dealing with the airbag and all it's paraphernalia...
How easily can you adjust the preload? I’ve been told a hydraulic preload adjuster is almost mandatory on the FJR since there’s no room to get a C spanner/tool in there for adjustment. Thoughts?
@@scotw67 its not the easiest but it can be done with the provided tool. I adjusted mine twice once on initial install and once for a long trip with passenger and luggage and back. For a budget solution on the line. Its a comprise but worth it.
I put FOBO tire pressure sensors on my 2012 after the TPMS started malfunctioning way better than messing around with the ones inside the rim batteries last about 2 yrs a cinch to replace plus it’s Bluetoothed to ur phone with pretty accurate tire pressures at all times
at the 10:48 mark in the video, he shows that 2 plugs need to be removed. How ? Do you squeeze somewhere on the plugs or just simply pull? I'm afraid i'll damage the plugs. Advise PLEASE...Thanks!
@@mavic2pro. that was an Ebay purchase back in the day, an unbranded product. If you do a search in eBay for “zg1400 ball mount” several options still come up. That should get you what you need.
How are you supposed to adjust this antenna and set for proper SWR? Have you done this? I would think it's pretty important so you don't burn the finals out of a $650 CB radio.
@@ssfd739 it is recommended practice to do so. I did check the swr later on. It wasn’t that far off where it may cause heating. Funny it wasn’t covered on the installation instructions so I’m thinking the finals may be robust enough. I had to fab a pigtail that converted standard car radio antenna plug to the cb pl259 to use with my swr meter. 75 ohm to 50 ohm Thats why i didn’t cover it as i didn’t have the necessary hardware at the time.
@@michaelwenzel3196 hello as far as fork braces go, there are a lot of opinions out there where some people believe that they make a difference and there are others who believe they don’t. I’m of the opinion, that they do help so in my case, I would recommend putting a fork brace on. But on the same token, you should ensure that your bearings brakes alignment and tires are in good shape as well. A fork brace will enhance a well set up bike as opposed to hiding an existing problem. Ride safe my friend.
I know an old vid but thx. Last wheel bearings I did was on a 1977 CB 750 Super Sport ( totally different animal). Yeah I’m old. I was intimidated by doing the wheel bearings on my 2007 FJR. Not now! Thx. again.
i was not reusing old shock so i unscrewed the hard/soft unit it is only wire like some clutch brake levers and just pulled through , otherwise did most what you filmed ty made job understandable at start
After hearing what you did with a rock, I tapped the timing cover with a hammer, and my bike started. I have the pulse generator and gasket ordered, I WILL change it, but I wanted to try your trick for 2 reasons, 1) To see if it worked on my bike [in case of emergency]. 2) To confirm it is indeed the pulse generator that is the problem and not a problem in the connector underneath the air box. Now I’m thinking I will cut the wires from the old pulse generator and splice/solder in an automotive waterproof connector at the front of the bike and wait until I do an air filter replacement to eliminate the connector underneath the air box. Thank you for mentioning your “rock” trick.
I'm glad you found that "bush fix" useful it kept me from having to tow a time or two. I'm not usually a fan of splicing or soldering it it can be a consideration on this, especially if you have an ABS model. I would be interested to know how you make out with you project. Ride Safe
Thank you for sharing. 👍🏼 I just discovered today my 2012 ABS Goldwing not starting and showing the Code 19 after 111,497 miles, so I will be doing the same job when the parts arrive. Thank you again for sharing your experience, I will have more confidence digging into mine. I do have a question for the option of moving the connector for next time needing to do this job. What is your opinion on after getting to the connector, cutting the connector and splicing/soldering a length of wire, extending the connector so it will be accessible behind the front cowl covers? Thus eliminating having to remove the air box and lift the gas tank. It seems like there is no reason that would not work.
The harnesses are all clustered together share water and dust proof boots and have specific paths they run for space considerations. I didn't look to see what the potential of relocating any of the plugs would entail. there is very little play in wire lengths as well. as for altering lengths, I personally wouldn't do it there is an argument for doing so since you have had to go in there once, but I think this is just one of those things that can happen to a bike. But lightning can hit twice in the same place I suppose. 111K is a good run hopefully you get it sorted out for the next 111K. Ride safe. let me know how you make out I would be interested to know.
@@SCWMoto - I spliced in a second waterproof connector and so far after 1000+ miles it’s working fine. The next time I change the air filter my plans are to eliminate the factory connector under the air box. My OCD thinking is, splicing in another connector means I won’t lose wire length should I need to or when I need to do the repair again. And it eliminates the connector under the air box. So far so good, hoping the repair lasts.
I just finished doing this on my '15 F6B deluxe (code 19 repair). I did not have to remove any of the tire fender equipment. I just removed the top and bottom fairing pieces surrounding the timing cover. Luckily mine is a non-abs model, so it was quite easy to disconnect the CKP sensor, once I moved coil 5 it was easy to reach the connection point for the sensor. I replaced the sensor with a new one and placed the new gasket and silicon sealant across the top and bottom where the engine case halves mate up. I have a video on my channel showing where the sensor connects and how I removed it. Honestly was easier than replacing the air filter in my opinion for non-abs. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-uddZ1X7j7qc.htmlsi=Ks026KyNXyktGiS7
I did that in 1993 so beautiful place to guys are arrested for trying to scale. The tower is kind of fun watching that I have and I love the ride. Be safe.
Yes, that hose is a breather. If I remember correctly, It just basically gets routed behind the airbox and drops down next to the battery overflow hose. I believe the color for the 1987 was candy wine red.
Well, it was just as you suspected, broken tabs laying in there with your clutch plates! You were smart to replace all the pressure plates. Makes me wonder about the 2002 Im getting ready to buy with 52k on it and no mention of that work ever having been done. Putting a magnet on the drain plug is a great idea. I really appreciate your videos and your friendly can do attitude. Very helpful and encouraging! Thank you and cheers from Indiana!
I dont know if you still monitor this page but I am considering buying a 2002 ZG1000 Concours with 54k on it. The guy says it runs great and its had 3+ owners. He wants 3800 for it, started out at 4500. I have been reading and watching videos about testing compression and tearing down carburetors and adjusting valves and cam chains and such. I am sure I am less experienced than you. In 1995 I had a 1982 1000 CSR that I loved and stupidly sold. It wasnt all decked out with a fairing and had only a luggage rack and back rest on the rack. Im a little afraid of the miles and how much trouble it would be to take off the fairings to get to things like the front end and carburetors and such. Im no young guy anymore and I am about to watch your video. I was considering an 1981 Honda CB 750F as a project bike to paint and fix up and make my own but i was slow getting the bucks together, $1000 for 19k miles which I thought was pretty good, and the guy sold it. So anyway, this Concours came along and I am wondering if you think it might be a decent bike for me. New tires last year, oil change at the end of season and battery has been maintained. Thank you. Just finished it. Yes, that was very helpful. I will move on to Video #2. Thank you!
Hello, yes I do still monitor the comments here. All I can offer you would be personal opinion for my experience with the concourse. I’ve owned several over the years. I believe the engine on those bikes are fantastic. They can easily go high mileage providing they’re not abused. Because it’s a touring type motorcycle the chances of abuse are lower than with other models. But you can still have an neglected maintenanced bike. The particular bike that I’m working on in this video has around the same amount of miles and runs just fine. what’s particularly outstanding in my opinion on these engines, is the valve adjustment sequence where it’s not a shim bucket but a full adjustable set screw and if that maintenance is kept up the bike should run literally forever a couple of things that I found to keep an eye on is the water pump, which not in itself is a totally easy fix but it’s not a difficult either and it’s a cheap fix, clutch springs can be another. I have since sold my concourse and I’m not gonna lie I do have regrets as I’ve had for the others that I sold throughout the years, but I would never speak bad about the bike because I really enjoyed it while I had it. They are a little top-heavy due to the big gas tank, and pretty fragile if you drop them but once you get used to that they will give you miles of smiles. Enjoy riding my friend.
Why not use a large bolt and washer then the old bearing on each side to pull the new ones in rather than bang on them. Old bearing will take the stress off the new ones.
You can do that, press fit them. A little more complicated but its a good method too. As long as you’re tapping the outer bearing through the socket there is really no stress to the actual bearings.
Here's a pro tip for you: it makes zero sense using a digital torque wrench if you aren't going to lubricate the threads of the bolts first. You are losing over 40% of that torque effort to friction, therefore you don't have the correct pretension on the bolt, so you may as well use that clicker wrench. Lubricate all fasteners liberally with anti-seize first before torquing, except for spark plugs, don't lubricate those threads. BTW, I'm a mechanical engineer.
Superb video. You know your stuff. Thank you for doing the work to make this video for everyone who owns a ZG. I, too, took my ZG for it's maiden ride and coming home the clutch started slipping. Your video will make the repair so much easier. I owe you one, buddy! For now, thank you kindly.
Put the top of the line Owens on my FJR all I can say is wow it improved the corner ability so dramatically... Combine that with my Moto GP front... And even though my bike is from 2010 I bet it rolls through corners better than the new ones... And that's even with a dark side rear
Well done, sir. very good job, Thanks for sharing your thoughts with others, I appreciate your time and efforts. Have a safe ride. Thank you again, Mohammed
I thought you meant the CPS, was wondering WTF is a CKP??? Click, it is torqued. I always wonder WHY folks tighten bolts with impact guns.....good way to wreck your aluminum mount point but looks like you're ok.
Thanks Rich. I felt like i was swimming against a rip tide with this one. But for all the miles and hours of miles she’s taken me, this TLC was well earned by her. 😉
@@HaveMotoWillTravel Right? Probably a small fortune. And whats crazy is there are much worse jobs in her that would require a bigger shovel to get to. Thankfully Honda,s are very reliable and well designed. They make use of every available inch.
Would LOVE to know what that wrench you used to install the slotted nut on top of the bearing is called. Ugh, Googled it and it's a C Wrench Spanner, comes in multiple sizes, ordered a set for the TB. Too bad ya never listed the P/N of the bearings. I prefer tapered bearings and a lot of aftermarket stuff is roller bearings. Folks say to not use a compressor on the fork air. Personally I use a hand pump with a gauge on it. We all do what we can for sure.
Half Fast fork brace ???? That would be what it is WITHOUT the fork brace.......it does work very well to keep the forks from shifting under heavy turn down forces. Something ALL of them found out with smaller diameter fork tubes. Engineers, what will they think of next. Personally I find it easier to remove the wheel first, which is a must anyway, to rebuild the forks or change the tire.......we each have our ways don't we.
Bob, I take a 5tb drive on my trips and it's always empty when I start. The 360 cameras take alot of storage. I won't ride at night. My night vision isn't what it used to be. I love to see the sun rise when I riding. it's so peaceful. We travel alike. Long days in the saddle, no problem. Greries. I enjoyed them all. Thanks.
Yup agreed, sunrise rides are the best. Heading west, i call it chasing the sun.🌞 We should maybe plan a ride this summer god willing. This one is pretty nice did it a couple of times www.newenglandriders.org/route/best-of-the-white-mountains-gorham-ride/
@shoulda-Coulda-woulda I'm always up for a ride Bob. Say the the word. I had to laugh when I saw that route. That's from the NER website and I'm pretty sure it's one of several I put together for an NER weekend. I used to be very involved with that group. I was actually a board member. Great group.
