Hello, My name is Salam, welcome to my RU-vid channel. I like to share my knowledge with others. I enjoy working on restoring old machinery, metal working, wood working, electronics, farm equipment, hunting and fishing. I appreciate your subscription, positive comments, likes, and sharing my videos. I hope you continue enjoying the contents of my channel. Be safe and have a great day.
Yes you can, actually a lot of people do that when they use this type of engine for small race cars. You just need to make sure to spring load the carburetor to hold on low RPM and you accelerate when you press the accelerator. However for tractor use, I highly recommend to keep the governor.
If you want to eliminate the governor, you have to re configure the throttle lineages to make them like any car carburetor lineages. You must have a spring to force the carburetor to the idle position and the linkages will accelerate the carburetor position. Once again: if this is for a tractor, generator, water pump, pressure washer and other systems that require a study RPM for torque changes then leave the governor functional. Disabling the governor is easy, just disconnect the linkages between the governor and carburetor. May I ask why you want to disable the governor?
Hey, that's pretty awesome. You make it simple. It does take a bit of work but not a lot of money. And even if someone kind of messes up I am sure that it is better than the tattered one they're fixing. 👍
Salam - excellent video series but... for your coolant, you need to add an SCA (supplemental coolant additive) to regular coolant. If you don't use this (most HD diesels need this), the cylinder lers will develop pitting and erosion from the firing harmonics and liner flexing. This can wear through the liner itself and kill your engine. Probably the same thing with your ford dump truck if it's a diesel (I have an '88 F450 with the 7.3 IDI that needs the SCA in the coolant). Baldwin CS5007, Donaldson DCA4 or Motorcraft VC8 are the correct substitutions for the three-times-the-price JD TY16004. JD specs a 3% by volume add rate (17 qt coolant = 544 ounces * .03 = 16 ounces additive). You can test with the Fleetguard CC2602A strips. The strips need to be fresh since they go bad in a year or so - don't buy at bottle, get a 3 pack on amazon.
Most likely overheating. They make these engines cheaply with tight tolerances. When the engine gets hot, the parts will expand and this causes them to seas. Other factors could be: No maintenance. No good cooling due to dirty engine. Low quality or wrong lubricant. I hope this answers your question.
Im currently trying to replace the gasket in between the block and the cover, Ive removed the engine from the chassis and removed the crank seal, removed all the bolts that hold the cover on but i cant seem to get the cover to separate from the block, is there something im missing that holds it together?
If you removed all the hardware, then you should be able to tap it and it should separate. Did someone rebuild this engine in the past or is it factory?
1990ish td7g... my clutch pressure gauge shows a drop after about an hour of running but the machine is still pushing hard. Would this be a plugged gauge line or something else? I changed the large filter in with the battery and put all new to-4 in the transmission. I didn't know about the strainer under the floor panel and will be changing that now that I ha e seen your video. I did the clutches and disk when I bought the machine about 5 years ago and. Any ideas why the gauge would show good clutch pressure and after about an hour show low pressure?
I believe the TD7G specifies Hytran hydraulic fluid or MS1209 specs or anything that shows compatibility to case MS1209 fluid. However, before replacing the fluid, make sure of the machine requirements. Also: Make sure the engine belt is tight and doesn't slip. Make sure the radiators are clean and allow good follow of air. Make sure both strainers are clean. Check fluid level. I hope this helps. Thank you for watching.
@@SalamSayhood I haven’t thought about replacing/checking the fan belt and I will do that when this rain lets up at the same time I get into the strainers. Is there more than one strainer other than the one under the floor pan? Another thing that your video got me thinking about would be the adjustment of the clutch/brake cylinders under the seat. If my track hand brake levers seep fluid like they do at the block, and if my clutch/brake cylinders were not adjusted properly, could that cause the clutch to lose pressure over a period of working? This also makes me wonder where the clutch pressure reading is taken at. Because the gauge shows that I have lost a considerable amount of pressure from the clutch, but it seems to have lost absolutely zero power. I also did not know the proper adjustment method when we reassembled the whole thing after new pads and disks, we used the old “that looks about how it was when we took it apart” technique. I am 100% glad I found your video!
Mine has two strainers, one in the transmission and one inline with the return line from the transmission radiator on the left side of the engine. The gauge should be reading the end of the system to monitor any drop of pressure. Keep in mind: when the hydraulic fluid gets hot the complete system will get hot and any leaky ring/seal will leak more. Also the gauge may be defective. Check for leaks. Make sure the steering cylinders don't leak (the rear end fluid level keeps rising. No leaky hose. Check everything and let me know what you find. Be safe and have a good day
The cylinders honing are okay for this project: 1- the cylinders are almost in new condition and the honing stones touched 100% of the cylinders walls. 2- I used new stones which was showing on the box they came in to only use dry. They were very fine grit. 3- the camera or footage may not show the actual hone and that due to the sand dust from the blasting. If you re-watch the video and see the cylinders after I washed the engine, they do look great. The rings are seated correctly and the engine is still running strong. I have had in the past using oil to hone cylinders for larger engines with more glaze or wear than this specific project. Please keep in mind, if the honing stones are wet/dry type, then using them with oil will give coarse cut and dry will give a finer cut. Thank you for watching
I had just purchased a used 310 last month and finally got around to changing the oil. While running it with the side cover off to check of oil leaks around the filter I saw drips coming from the fuel pump. Ugh, another part to replace! This video, like the one you did for the water pump, is a great step by step lesson, which I thank you for, so I'll be better prepared when my new fuel pump arrives. One more thing. I notice that your 310 has a guard over the alternator pulley which mine does not have. I guess it went missing or was broken by a previous owner. As I seid in a prior comment - I learn more about my machine by watching your videos.
I learn something new about my JD 310D with every video you make about yours. I was wondering what that rectangular channel above the left loader hydraulic cylinder is for, now I know it is a safety device to keep the fully raised loader bucket from coming down. My backhow had been repainted so none of the decals are readable. If there was a decal indicating how to use that safety device I couldn't read it. Thank you for this video.
Thank you for making this video. I too have to replace my water pump because the bearing is noisey and loose. Now I know how to get the belts on, which I will be replacing too. Given how expensive the pumps have gotten I may just buy a rebuilding kit since I have a hydraulic press. I'll know once I inspect the old pump to see if it comes apart easy enough without breaking the housing, pulley or impeller. The kit comes with a new seal and tool to press it in so it shouldn't be too difficul;t.
Good morning sir, I bought the water pump on eBay which was cheaper than the rebuild kit that John Deere sells. I found a rebuild kit for it on eBay, however the price difference between the new pump and the kit didn't make sense to me to rebuild mine. I believe the new pump was about $200 and the kit was about $130 (these were the prices when I did the video). It should be easy and straightforward to rebuild yours if you have all the parts and a hydraulic press. Thank you for the feedback
Did tou use just oxygen for shielding? Im trying weld a 1/4 thick metal super duty bed frame and im not sure what to use for a lasting and strong good weld . Have the same machine you reviewing .
If you are more familiar with ARC welding, then use 7018 welding rods. 1/8" diameter 7018 rod will give you very strong weld and only require the welding machine and rod. If you want to use the MIG welder, then use mig wire with C25 gas (a mix of argon 75% and CO2 25%) do not use oxygen. For thin steel weld, you can use the flux core process which doesn't require gas and I detailed that in the video. I hope this helps. Be safe and have a great day
@@SalamSayhood actually i purchaed it last week but for some reason it wont spark enough to keept melting just like happened to you with the rod . You had to rise up the amperage. Maybe i need to do the same.
Yes, you have to adjust the current to get easy start and good penetration. If you weld on 120 volt then use 1/16" diameter rod. If you weld on 220 volt then use 1/8" diameter rod.
Excellent job man. It helped me tremendously! I'm RU-vid University smart, so awesome ppl like you help me more than you can even know, lol. Thanks again, and have a blessed day!
I have a very detailed video reviewing this welder. I used both methods (flux core and MIG) or gasless and with shielding gas. The link for the video: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ZpxjuEAsV-I.html
Si tiene preguntas sobre el proyecto, hágamelo saber y haré todo lo posible para ayudarlo. No hablo español. Estoy usando Google para traducir. gracias
Most excellent video. Have an 800 hour engine, slight knock, low power. Now, I know I can do this. I would suspect that rod and driveshaft bearings on these hold up well and the first rebuild should be similar to yours. Great teaching style with detail, to the point. New sub. Thanks!
The 750 is very similar to the one I built in this video. I actually rebuilt one last year. I am not sure if someone built one and recorded it for RU-vid.
Boa noite os pneu onde eu trabalho pneus fora de estrada estão dando bolha e nis não podemos chegar perto pra esvaziar o pneu risco do pneu estourar você tem uma maneira dd esvaziar ou estourar esta bolha sem chegar perto se cado vocês yrm me fala ai ok
boa noite, tentei traduzir seu comentário. não tenho certeza se entendi seu comentário corretamente. você tem problemas para remover o pneu da roda? se sim, o que você está usando para remover o pneu? obrigado
Nice job making a new pin, but you did not adjust the stop bolts properly! There should be some preload, no clearance, otherwise the piston will damage valve internally. See official tech manual for proper procedure.
It has been running fine for 4 years. No issue with the brake. On the John Deere website it shows "The John Deere 310D backhoe's hydraulic wet disk service brakes are self-adjusting and self-equalizing, so they don't require brake preload adjustment. The brakes are mounted inboard and are lubricated and pressure cooled. The pedals can be used individually or together, and the parking brake is a separate system that's spring-applied and hydraulically released." Would you please elaborate on what are you talking about and what manual are you referring to? Thank you
Thank you for the comment and the tip it was a 50/50 funny/serious, I really didn't have any other way to start the fire 😂. However, I did this many times as I always have diesel and welder with me.
It is very easy. You just make sure to align the gears for the oil pump and the governor with the camshaft and crank shaft prior to pressing in the cover. Don't use force, it should go in easily. The only resistance you have is the oil seal.
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Very nice, looks heavy duty as well. Mine is same design, just lighter material, it works. I have a gas lift strut from a hatchback car holding my handle up.
