This radiator is fully capable. Just had a 103 degree track day with zero coolant temp concerns! Check out my latest video titled about the improved racing oil cooler.
Great videos! I’m looking into this radiator so this is very helpful! We did a 6.2 swap that was built to a stroker 416 big heads and cam running to warm.
I don’t technically have a gauge, but the C5 does monitor transmission temperatures. The place where you fill the trans with oil is a temperature sensor, which is being monitored by the PCM. The car is designed to alert you if the temperature goes over 265°, after it alerts you of that the temperature remains visible. I have heard of some people who will lower the alert temperature to something around 200° just so that they can monitor it.
LOL, you passed my old track Mustang at the 1:50 point of the video....that was such a fun track car. Sold it to trade up to a 2003 C5Z06. When doing the East track, what are you highest coolant temps you've seen with the new radiator? I saw your west track coolant results but I honestly think maybe the east track can generate more heat due to the higher speeds/loads and being at WOT longer.
I didn't do any data logging because Harry's Lap Timer produces better quality video and audio, but I don't think it ever went above 220. Oil temps barely hitting 240 on the day.
Doing this upgrade this week on my 97 C5. It rattles terribly and is u stable at speed over bumps so I’m hoping the 27 year old shocks are the issue and this fixes it. Almost went with coil overs, but the Bilsteins were half the price so worth a shot! Thanks for the vid brother helped a lot!
I'll be honest, I don't think coilovers are all they're cracked up to be. Adjustable shocks? Probably worth it... but I'm happy keeping it simple, eliminating a variable, and just running it.
Your contribution on RU-vid would be far more interesting if you could speak fluently with a little more interest thrown in. The shaky camera work. . . well, why do you even bother ?
Man... I'm sorry this free content I made 11 years ago doesn't meet your expectations... a video meant for entertainment purposes only. So sorry about that... 😂
What has worked for me every time I've refilled the coolant (did it a couple more times for cam install and once more to try to fix an oil leak at my front timing cover after that cam install...) was cracking the front steam port bolts one at a time and lifting them up to ensure coolant flowed out. And also following all normal vette coolant fill procedures. If a vid would be helpful I could make one explaining what I do
I'd go with 187. I had a 160 before with the stock radiator and it was running too cold. With this radiator for normal highway use, your coolant is going to be pegged at the thermostat level without even using the fans. If you're forced induction I would maybe consider the 180.
Great video! I was thinking about swapping that radiator in my ‘04 coupe while doing a cam/heads, and your info sealed the deal! I’m in FL and seems like always have one eye on the engine temp because the stock radiator is barely adequate. We’re gonna fix that 👍 Are you on Corvette forum?
Yeah but not very active. More of a lurker. I think I'm 04vette or something like that. Glad the video helped - this radiator has been kicking ass on the street. Waaay more cooling capacity. I just finished a cam job and temps are still way down for me.
@@bat5917 I would source the proper GM bushing instead. I ended up trashing the ones from Dorman. They worked in the mean time, but the fits way better with the GM one.
@@nachothemacho0389 the driver is literally stuck coasting 90% of the time the fuck you mad at the guy who commented for? you one of those piss slow drivers who goes to the track to block people n enjoy the view?
You need to go wide off the cork screw,that’s a fast sweeper. I know it’ll feel like you’ll slide out but trust me you won’t. And looks like you don’t trust your brakes
Thank you for the advise, I never could dial in that turn. And ya, I believe I was on stock brakes with Hawk 5.0 pads. I was getting fade by the end of the day and I cooked my caliper piston boots. 😅 I also should have been using a better brake fluid, because I think my pedal was super spongey on the drive home. Have a C5 now and I would love to get back out to Laguna!
I can relate to the install issues. In the process of removing the rad for a cam swap. Searched you tube for some rad install vids, came across yours. At this time I am stuck at the bottom right corner of the rad, Its hung up and won't release. I think it is the AC condenser not releasing from the rad. Try again tomorrow. I need a beer !
Yea I would take a look at the AC hard line on the bottom binding up with the radiator. Focus on moving that out of the way of the radiator and it'll come out pretty easy. Def smart to take a step back and don't force it. It's just a matter of finding what's binding and trying to move that part. The condenser is only held in place by its lines on the passenger side. You got it!
In the rear yes, they have an et of around 70 something. The front didn't need spacers but they could have used them to make them stick out a bit more and not look so "sucked in" to the wheel well.
@@477racingused Camaro SS Brembo calipers go for between $125 to 150.00 $ plus rotors but no adapter bracket required!!! ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--zVVUnpxoKg.htmlsi=wib2qbsURT_3fEvm
great video thank you! I like the way you don't hook a camera to your head and then jerk it around continually, you took time to position it to do stills. But RU-vid really SUCKS! WAy too many adds, blurry video, stop and starting the video over and over, what a bunch of commie jerks!
I had a corvette mechanic tell me that is normal as the high speed fan does not come on until that temp. . Anyway, I took my vette to a tuner and had the computer reset for the fans to come on at 180 degrees. I live in Florida. Engine temp never breaks 200. @@theoutbreak1651
In my opinion, I found them to feel softer on the street compared to 2004 stock Z06 shocks. As for the track, I feel that the car handles excellently. I was hitting 1.25 G's in some of my turns. Unfortunately, in stock seats I was holding on for dear life. I could probably get more out of the car with some actual supportive seats.
A Corbeau bucket and a harness and you’ll be loving life! Of course you’ll need a seat bracket and a harness bar and belts. A word on belts, get the ones that transition from 2-3In wide on the shoulder strap so they will fit in the channel of your HANS restraint. HANS is required if you run a harness, if you don’t wanna kill yourself. Back to the belts, also get the style that tighten by pulling up rather than down, there isn’t the room along the sides of the seat to tighten by pulling down.
TJ Brutal customs mostly for everything. Seat, rear fender, carb jets/velocity stacks, and exhaust. The tail lights I did myself. The handle bars came on the bike, unknown any info about them.
@@ricardomilos7324 As far as i know they are factory rims, not sure on the tire brand. I don't think I bought them. I don't have the bike anymore or I would totally let you know! :/
What's your opinion of your T4 overall? This is basically the exact same thing I'm building for my '74 Super. I found your YT page while looking for opinions of the C35
I have sold my car but I liked having the type four. I experienced less oil leak issues due to better design and I enjoyed having a factory oil filter. Admittedly, the parts are more of a premium. If you're on a budget, it's probably better to stick to type one. Obviously if built properly, theoretically type 1's shouldn't leak oil. It was not my experience though lol. I think I also enjoyed the Challenge of the swap as well.
@super71beetle In your opinion, did you find the engine easier(or just easy) to rev up? I'm building my car for street/autocross, so I want a decent ability to rev. I suspect a T1 would rev up faster due to lighter internal parts, but the T4 is going to last longer. I think I live somewhat near you(in Modesto) after you mentioned Marsh Creek rd. It's a shame(from my perspective) you sold the car
@@johnlist9054 look at lightweight flywheels if you want a fast reving engine. I don't think one revs faster than the other pound for pound since the bores and stroke are very similar. I had a 71mm stroke by 96mm bore. As for selling the car, I have a c5 z06 now for racing. Once I got into my c4 vette, I realized I was fighting an uphill battle to make the bug do what the vette does. I have auto crossed the bug and it was fun! Needed more gear though for the track I was on in Monterey
@super71beetle totally understandable. I did see the video about the C5. I'm a big Super Beetle enthusiasts, so my point is to autocross a Super. I will do it for fun more than to be competitive. It makes the build a bit more difficult due to the need to maintain streetability. It'll be more a car for the street that can occasionally do an autocross.
