Thank you for this tutorial. I have zero soldering experience prior and still made it trough just fine following the steps in the video. Now the mouse is working like normal, or even better considering the scroll wheel is now tactile and the new skates makes the mouse fly like air over the mat.
After trying this here's a very important advice: TEST YOUR LEDS BEFORE SOLDERING. 100% of the time there are two or three bad leds and you don't know it until you actually test them. so make sure to insert your leds, bend them and then turn on the keyboard and see if they light up. sometimes they don't make contact since they're not soldered so you have to wiggle them a bit. So this and you won't have to go through the nightmare of desoldering a broken led that won't turn on.
do you know whether or not the basic design of this has remained consistent over the years? i'd like to do this on a Razer Copperhead, but am unsure if the pin layout is the same
Middle click responsibility is on button pushed by wheel right leg (clearly seen in this video and its standart practice nowdays for all 5$ to 150$ mouses with middle click). Encoder change wont help in this case since encoder responsible for wheel rotation reading only. Unplug USB cable if using it/ disassemble mouse/ take a look if button pressed by wheel right leg/disconnect battery/ spray button with pure alcohol a bit (spray button - NOT SMD components all around or use syringe with needle if not sure about your hands :)/ press it several times/ give it a time to dry. Might help if button itself is not damaged and take 10-15 minutes. P.S. use disassembling for internal mouse cleaning as well, kill 2 rabbits in 1 shot.
If your PCB does not have built in LEDs you will need to solder in the LEDs. The “compatibility” of the switch usually refers to the slot in the switch for the LED to physically pass through for installation to the PCB underneath the switch.
The japanese guy is right, use contact cleaner first before attempting this. contact cleaner fixed my issue in seconds without having to open the mouse.
Thanks so much for your video. I just saved my Deathadder from the trash because of it. I'm a total newbie to electronic repairs but you expained it "idiot-proof" so even I could fix it. :)
hey, great video! im just got into keyboard stuff now. i just got Digital Alliance Meca 8S, the keyboard doesnt have any rgb lighting, but when im modding the keyboard, i saw that the pcb has led slot labelled as "led" on the pcb. can i actually put a led light to it? im not really good at electricity and im afraid that i gonna fry the pcb when i put led to it
My razer deathadder v3 pro turns on and 2 seconds later it turns off, connected by cable, if it works, it did not damage any circuit, what could be the cause?
This is beyond my current skills, but let me just add to the comments about the terrible scroll wheel. I'm on my third in the span of a month or so due to various issues and the wheel is already starting to make grinding noises, as well as shifting left and right. I'm going to wait out Amazon's return window and RMA it with Razer at some point... Too bad as it's such a comfortable mouse with a nice finish and great clicks & buttons.
The mouse being so good is the only reason it’s worth fixing. The fact that’s it’s held back by a part that would cost them pennies more to use is a shame. Do you know someone who can solder a little bit? The soldering is relatively basic and the rest of the procedure is easy. Maybe you can find someone to help you?
@@basekit Yeah it's pretty much as good as it gets for a wireless ergo without holes! I will force myself to learn soldering at some point! Maybe tackle small projects on stuff I don't mind ruining, haha
Thank you SO much for the detailed video about this, I just fixed my own mouse thanks to your video. This knowledge just gave my DAV3 a much longer service life now that I know how to get in there and fix anything else now.
thanks for the video. i had so much trouble every step of the way. first the screws are some tiny torx t6. The encoder was a bitch to to take out, i followed your method of clipping, ended up clipping all the legs and sides too.
Thanks for the video basekit! I JUST got my mouse back together and working after following your instructions. A few comments on the process - 1. I struggled with cutting the large pins due to the structural material of the old encoder. I ended up just popping the 'case' part off, and desoldering the two big pins separately from the 3 small ones. 2. I think I paid like 3 bucks for 2 TTC Gold encoders from Ali Express. Pretty infuriating that Razer didn't spend just a little more to make such a big difference in this flagship mouse. 3. The adhesive on my skate wouldn't restick. I'll be purchasing a set of esports skates and recommend anyone doing this upgrade to do the same while you have it apart. Thanks again!
Yeah having new skates on hand is a good idea, I ended up changing mine for the Hotline skates which have been great so far. Agree that it’s crazy a part that’s worth a few pennies makes all the difference in a $150 mouse. Thanks for watching!
this mouse is so dogshit I so regret my buying ... same prob with the scrollwheel, also 30h battery and not 90 like annouced, also unplugging the battery reload wire totally broke my keyboard... thx for the tuto I dont have the skill but I know I'll never buy razer again.
would this essentially be the same for the viper v2 pro? 4 months in & my copy has a mushy wheel near the front when you click, and reverse scrolls constantly. made the switch from the superlight because i've had sensor spinout issues on 3 of them. the QC on these $150+ mice is ridiculous lol
Yes, although the although the size/height of the encoder may be different. I would try to research and confirm how many mm the Viper encoder is. Otherwise, I would imagine the process would be the same. I agree, crazy that they don’t spend a few extra cents per unit for a better encoder on $150 mice!
@user-bq5ok8og2o I love the mouse, but yes the scroll wheel is a very common problem. If you buy it make sure you have some kind of additional warranty or are willing to repair the scroll wheel at some point otherwise it’s a no-go.
I am a little late to the party I assume, but this is quite a promising video! Ive been looking for a video that teaches me how I could implement RGBs to a hand-wired keyboard. This seems to be quite useful here, since here the switches and LEDs are seperate from the PCB. Do you have a tip or idea how I could manage wiring the RGB properly to the keyboard? I am considering that either two Arduino boards or one large one may be possible to use here. (I am really new to this, so I am still figuring this out! Appreciate any tips)
I'm considering buying a random prebuilt with hot swappable switches and rgb lighting. I'm a bit worried about the LEDs failing and needing to be replaced in the future. Do you think it will probably be as easy as you have shown here? In case it matters, the keyboard I am looking at is HS108T.
