Jeeps, cars, and motorcycles are the main subjects of my channel. I do repair demonstrations such as how to test various sensors on my Jeep Wrangler YJ.
Also included are How to get the check engine light codes, removing a locking gas cap if you lost your key, oil changes, tune-ups, changing sensors, changing clutch, fuel pressure testing and so much more.
Modifications such as ammo can storage, Posi-lok conversion, push-button starter conversion.
Tool tricks and tips? Yep got that too.
Come on in and check out my channel. Please feel free to browse around my videos and don't forget to subscribe so you will know each time I post a new one. While you are at it check out my sites http:\\\\www.fixjeeps.com\\ .
Thanks, everyone for checking out my channel. Have a great day!! Peace :-)
I've been running the hose clamps since about 2weeks after you posted that video no issues what so ever and no need in the cup holder thanks the the amazing response video giving me all the measurements for my center counsel witch turned out amazing BTW custome storage cup holders phone and vape holder and 18650 battery charger and more
First of all your videos are very educational and very informative! Thank you.. I have a 91 YJ as well and my fuel pump works intermittently. I saw in one of your videos on how to test voltage to the pump but I can’t seem to find where you talk about the voltage. I have the tank dropped but was wondering if you could tell me what the voltage should be at the plug? Just wanted to make sure I didn’t have a voltage issue before I just ordered a new fuel pump.
If it's a intermittent issue it's gonna be a bad ground. You should have 12 volts at the plug, but move the ground wire around to see if that voltage drops. If it does .. clean/repair the ground connection and test again. Rare that it may be a faulty relay intermittently acting up but its always possible.
Cool idea for improvising a pump! Seems like you could use a 1/4” “Y” connector instead of the slit in the tube. One top-leg of the Y to the pb jar, the other top-leg for the airgun, base of the Y as the outlet. I’m gonna go try this. Thanks!
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Me sirvió la forma de cómo colocar las balatas pero no me gustó que no le cambiaste el fluido, estaba sucio y con humedad y así cerraste el depósito. Mal muy mal por eso te hace falta limpieza y orden en tu taller
2 weeks straight watching videos. At first I couldn’t make heads or tails of this one. After watching 20+ videos and coming back to yours it all makes sense. Yours is definitely the best one and very descriptive. Thank you. On a side note why is it always ready to rain or bad weather when you all make these videos 😅
LOL .. Its Tennessee for ya. It can be clear one moment and crazy weather the next. I don't remember which video it was but on day one there was like 3" of snow, the next day was t-shirt weather and the snow was melting. Glad the video helped you and you liked it so much!!
I was smiling thru the whole " what I hate" comments! You hit every one! All of these I have changed out as you have suggested, including the 8.8 and the clamp on the front axle.
It's very possible Jeep changed how they were made within a certain model or even mid-year. Every car manufacturer does it. Ford is the worst for it. The clips may be an upgrade, so they still may work. If they still don't work ... it Amazon .. they take everything back and give refunds as long as you do it within the allotted time frame.
I appreciate your seemingly encyclopedic knowledge. I'm not much of a mechanic but have ~200k miles on my YJ and would like to keep my YJ till I die (I'm 65 yrs old) '91 YJ 4 ltr 6 cyl here. Where can I find a charcoal vapor canister? My gas tank pressures up with the gas cap on and I was assured by mechanics that the pressure build up was due to the vapor canister being clogged and not the pressure regulator. I got a used vapor canister off the internet from an online used parts seller and it lasted about a month. I bought a 2nd gas cap and pulled the gasket seal off to let the pressure leak out. It runs ok but I realize that if I ever roll the jeep or am rear ended it will leak gasoline. My AAA mechanics and I have been unable to locate a replacement vapor canister and they are not being made anymore. Any suggestions? Anyone?
During my 88 rebuild, I: swapped in an 8.8 deleted the track bars (part of my SOA) converted to 1 piece TJ passenger axle replaced ALL the torx with hex heads We have a lot in common \m/
I made a blocking plate that keeps crap from magically falling out of the glove box. It just sticks up about 3/8" or so. I like how it's angled for stuff to fall out rather than in.
That is a great idea!! If I had a Jeep with a factory Glove box I'd make a video demonstrating that and give you the shout out in the video. Both of my YJs have now been altered. Thanks for dropping in a great suggestion!!
Here's a quick question, most fuse blocks are rated at 100 amps total and 30 amps maximum per fused circuit. I am going to be running a 8 fuse block and a 10 fuse block. Would it be a good idea to feed them with a 80 amp resettable breaker ( to play it safe ) and 4 gauge wire or maybe 8 gauge for the input? The 8 fuse block will have a less than 2 foot run from the the 80 amp breaker and the 10 fuse block will have a 10 foot or less run from the same 80 amp circuit breaker these will both be fed off my main 250 amp breaker. I like to build my projects once and forget about them for lifetime service. I am in my mid 60's and constantly working on them is not the fun it used to be 😢.
I agree with you on YJ Renegade. My 1st Jeep, a 1979 CJ7 RENEGADE. I went through everything thing. It was awesome when I got done. After a few years of driving it( which it was my daily driver) I screwed up and sold it. I have a 1990 yj ( 4.0 carb) that I've been working on. And my daily driver is a 2018 Rubicon ( Rhino edition). The Renegade YJ , is a little to much, as far as looks and function. It's more of a pavement prowler ,than a real Jeep
Yes it works fine. I live near Nashville Tennessee, that Jeep has road tripped to Arkansas, Memphis, Kentucky, Alabama, North Carolina, and was my daily driver for many years until I bought my Tahoe. It functions just like the TJ and late model XJ 1 pc axle.
Agreed. The track bar went very quick. The sway bar did too after the lift kit. Got the 8.8 and sye. The thing I really hate is it leaks like a siv. Here is my Jeep before lift. The lift was sitting at home. 🤣🤣🤣 Rumble jeep60
I agree with the say bar as well. I forgot to mention that in this video. I'm working on another video for "cheap or free" mods to a YJ. I mention it in that one. I've had no problems with my 8.8 so far. That big fat center pumpkin like to drag rocks a lot though :-)
@@Poweraddicts I miss spoke. The 8.8 is great. The Jeep leaks like a siv. Always have water in it. The windshield frame is the largest leaker. BTW, this is with a hard top.
You are very welcome! I really enjoy knowing that the videos help so many with their projects. Thanks for taking the time to leave such an awesome comment!!!
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If you are referring to the wire coming from the fuse box that turns the relay on, I didn't put one in it. It takes mere milliamps to turn on a relay so one really isn't needed. If you want to add one, a 1 amp fuse will be more than enough amzn.to/47DhTMH . If you are referring to the main large wire from the battery to the relay, that size fuse will be determined by the total load you will be adding to the distribution blocks. So I can't tell you what size to use for that one.
Man, was contemplating doing my own throwout bearing/clutch replacement, but this looks like more than i can chew. Thanks for creating this video - beautifully done!
It isnt exactly a walk in the park. There is good bit of stuff that needs to be done to complete the swap so I totally understand. Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for taking the time to leave an awesome comment!!
Wouldn't a manually resettable circuit breaker be better than a heavy duty fuse? Yes they are more expensive but easily resettable. Your using the marine post off your battery is ok but it should be fused as well where it goes into the fuse block.
It's really a matter of preference honestly. I do like the resettable breakers and use them often. The XJ camper trailer I'm building now (videos coming soon) will have some in it.
Maybe I missed it but I don't see a link in your parts list for the 60 amp fuse holder.. Thanks for any info for that..Lastly, do you prefer the replaceable fuse as opposed to a resettable one?
Assuming you mean this one? amzn.to/3XQSqfm . Honestly it is a matter of preference between a replaceable fuse and a resettable breaker. I have used the breakers many times. The Jeep Cherokee XJ Camper trailer I am building now (videos coming soon) will have the resettable breakers in it.
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Changed my fuel pump and now it keeps blowing out the rubber hose right at the clamp. Could the pressure regulator be bad? The hose is still flexible. Maybe bad?
Replace the hose and use fuel injection hose clamps. The FI clamps do not have the worm gear and grooved clamp band. It looks like a solid band with no grooves that uses a small bolt and nut to apply clamping pressure
The drive line is in the factory configuration/location. Is similar in length to the 2.5L 4 cylinder factory gas engine but both are considerably shorter than the 4.0L 6 cylinder it originally had.
So that hose that is 90* is a PITA. Plus, wait a minute or do this when the engine is cold so that gas pressure isn't that high. I found that a Gates 18030 is just the right bend and is available at most autoshops.
I haven't, I'm going to eventually make a video rebuilding all the parts of those doors. I don't like running hard doors so I keep forgetting I have them in my shop stuffed in the corner :-)
I was waiting for you to chime in :-) . I'm getting more proficient with this new video editing software I was forced to switch over to. I'll be back on editing the other footage we shot soon. Later brother!!
I just received the PSL900 and it has issues just looking at it. The big nuts do not slide off the cable (like you did) to install the mounting bracket. The pressed fittings are bigger than the nut,,it cannot be taken off. Not a huge issue I can modify the mounting bracket to slide over the cable. The mounting bracket will look like a fork instead of a hole. Hopefully the nuts will secure it enough from falling out. Second the aluminum housing is not machined correctly,,the cable wont go thru the hole,,I had to take a file and clean out the hole with threads very close to what I am removing. It worked and now the cable end goes thru the housing . And 3rd,,I have the 1st page of instructions,, a missing staple and any other pages that were once here. I guess not needed? Who reads instructions?