DISCLAIMER: These videos show my way of doing things. Don't necessarily follow my advice, I could be wrong. You are responsible for your actions. Not me. My goal here is to provide useful technical information through my experiences as well as provide troubleshooting tips and a look at how I approach problems while providing entertainment at the same time. I'm just a weekend tinkerer that likes to fix stuff.
An old fashion "growler". An electro magnet which is built with a physical notch where the commutator sets and an old hacksaw blade would show you if that commutator has become to hot and developed short on it's field winding which could very well be caused by a sticky brush. Also, shouldn't a PWMs primary frequency be stable and it's % of power be variable? I am in the process of designing one. It should have a frequency of about 24Khz and the variable voltage should be between 20% and 80% of each time division. What are your thoughts on this?
I have the same turntable and thank you for showing how to replace the belt. One thing you did not show but repaired was the tone arm lift. Mine doesn't lift so I'm wondering if you can share what you did to get the lift to work again. Thanks
Great video. Can you clarify if we need to pigtail the resistor wire with a new wire directly to the + coil side ? Also the small brown wire on the solenoid has to be disconnected for it to crank over but will only fire after you let off the key to run position !! Can you give advice on the correct connection for the resistor & brown wire .thanks
There is 3 options for EEE-FPC101XA on digikey website. EEE-FPC101XAL , EEE-FPC101XAP, and EEE-FPC101XAV. Which one is the right choice? Great video , thank you.
Interesting. I am going to check mine tomorrow. My controller is flashing and having issues staying on. Frustrating that this new style controller is not better than the old one.
Well small leak in the middle Line to the rear and kept shuttling to no flow tot he rear and I gotta fix leak first I guess then tool went in place but still no flow weird
I had an old flex a lite shrouded one piece fan go bad. I tried ordering a new one but the design changed and it wouldn't fit. I ended up installing a no name 18 inch fan that I had, on a 3 row aluminium champion radiator. It draws 18A at startup, maintains 8A draw at full speed. It holds my heavy leather work gloves on the face of the radiator.
Thanks for the vid, I have the same type of board pretty much in a Rheem dual pack/ roof unit and my fan control just got stuck on (prob fan relay/ contactor welded) but we're about to have a 105/107* heat wave here in SoCal in Oct (figures) in the next few days but luckily the AC/ compressor section still kicks in so I'm going to wait until to tear into it. Was just looking around and found this! Thanks for the vid and good job!
@@brandonchiles1587 I have an ammeter and I converted it to a voltmeter. The dummy light is a little harder but there are schematics online that will help you make it work.
Good job explaining the YOM process. The left side well years are: 1964, 1967, 1969 The right side well years are: 1965, 1966, 1968 For 1963 there are no stickers, only the '63 stamped into the plate in right side well. There were no month stickers in the 1960's or earlier, first year of the month sticker was 1976.
In 2021 I had the same problem with my wife's 2014 Bug. I couldn't find any helpful info at that time and took it to the local dealer. They "diagnosed" the problem and said we needed a new light unit, and $450 later the problem was fixed. This summer the whole thing started again, so I did more searches and found your video. Your diagnosis and fix was spot on! Now I'm seriously doubting that we needed a new light unit in 2021. If this happens again I know I can fix it in 15 minutes (probably permanently with a drop of thread locker). Thanks for posting this video!
I’ve a question, i did the same setup except that my pump is along the base of the tank, the issue is that the pump stops pumping pressure after running for around 10-12 minutes, then after a while continues the pressure again Could the reason be that the pump has gone bad?
Good explanation and I thought for sure that was my problem. I replaced my CVR in my 62 thunderbird and the Temp and Fuel Gauges are still not working, pointing far left (empty) with a half tanks of gas. Any ideas that could help would be greatly appreciated.
"ive installed the scott drake valve cover that im sure is gonna leak" you are 100 percent correct it will leak. i have tried both the cork gasket and a rubber gasket i found on rock auto even replaced the valve cover bolts with ARP studs and mine still leaks like crazy. if you find a fix let me know
There is one listed for sale in my area that appears to be the same model listed for $400. I just got mine refurbished and it needs to go back to the shop. Left channel very weak and changer issues.
Thanks for this! I noticed my ice maker wasn't working and was dreading the whole diagnosis process. I never would have thought to check the plastic fill tube at the top, and wouldn't you know, it was plugged with 3" of ice. I noticed the factory was kind enough to leave out any kind of gasket for that connection so that it can happen again. I decided to just cover that whole area with foil tape. Thanks Again!
Holley techs will help you resolve problems. FiTech techs fail miserably when it comes to customer service or tech support. Most email responses are 2 weeks later, if at all.
Instead of all this work, I bought a second battery holder from Flume and after their battery failed, I just replaced the 8 batteries, the ones I get at Sam's same battery. It may cost a little more to start but easy, Nice job thou.
I bought mine back in the 80's and haven't used it in decades. Found the "table" wouldn't turn. The belt was in good shape except a small piece that went around the capsun. I have over 250 vinyl lps and I used to play them ONE time to put them on cassette. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for all of your videos on the 6cylinder ! I have a Mustang and doing most of the same things you did - just finished the sniper and have the distributor to do next.
wao I have been searching for the same problem you have, I have drinking water but no water in the ice maker, bacause of your information I am going to check clog. cause I did order solenoid from amazon it did not repair also I have order ice maker which is on its way. but I guess problem is may be clog the water line to the ice maker thanks for the work you did. I am going to try today thanks
I just installed a CPP power brake conversion on my 70 C10 and the prop valve is leaking where the 9/16 18 inverted flare adapter threads into the rear. Very aggravating. Waiting for their tech support to call me back.
The question is... I want to keep the plates as original as possible and keep the YOM year sticker on and avoiding sticking on the current year registration sticker on. Is anybody else doing this?
Is there any reason that a little water would still be trickling into the toilet bowl after installation? Maybe that black ring/seal is off center or needs to be replaced?