@@Hodado nice. Hopefully other folks see your comment and realize it’s not acceptable for bearings to fail after just a few years and if the bearings are not greased they sure won’t last 24 years. How many hours on your tractor? I imagine you must be near or over 1000 by now?

I’ll be at a thousand soon.Ive noticed in a lot of the newer models that the zerks are absent I bet you’ve repaired a lot of them

@@Hodado unfortunately they seem to last less and less time. The newer the machine the less time they last, without adding grease of course. Iv seen some go out in 60 hours. Yes Iv fixed a few, haha.

@@davidrobins7753 thanks for the comment. It baffles me nobody else has made a video to cover this. Every other channel says they can’t be greased or it’s a waste of time and yet so many RU-vidrs comment that they do it this way for decades and never had a bad bearing. Why are the mower repair guys “experts” who make videos not understanding this. Geeeeze, at least run some tests like I did and learn. It’s not useless information. I’m a shade tree hobbiest at best and I figured it out, I’ll admit it took me a good many years to stumble on it and finnaly pump a unit full and figure out where the grease goes when the unit is filled. Kept having bearings burn up. Not enough grease to fill the unit and push grease into the bearings

@@robertcromwell9736 the lip of a seal is a flexable rubber flap. If the assembly is a sealed assembly with no weep hole, the only exit is through the bearings as the rubber lip is the path of least resistance. If you have a weep hole, see part two for that fix.

@@GTObearclaw1 True but hard to get much thru there. I just remove the bearing, remove the rubber covers, clean with solvent and repack with good grease and replace the covers. Good for another few years then rinse and repeat. Putting too much pressure in there can push out grease around the outer seal and attract dirt, etc.

@@robertcromwell9736 in fact it’s actually very easy. It may be hard for some folks to understand because they can’t see what’s happening inside the unit so folks come up with all kinds of theories but they are all wrong. What is right is that the grease can be pumped straight into the unit via the zerk and that’s simply all that’s needed. Rubber lips on the shield / seals pose no restriction as some folks imagine. That is exactly why I ran through the step by step process in my video to break it down into baby steps so the folks who don’t grasp this can see it in the most simple way possible. Unfortunately some folks still can’t wrap their heads around this very simple pricess. It is way easier than taking the assembly apart to grease each bearing. Also, dirt outside the seal is fine and no reason for concern. It’s outside the bearing where it won’t hurt anything and is just messy. Same as many other applications, of course dirt will stick to grease but as long as it’s outside the working surfaces it’s simply just dirt and not harmful. I wipe away the grease that exits to keep my deck cleaner. And I stop greasing as soon as I see some grease escaping through a bearing shield so it’s less messy. It will be fine and won’t hurt anything. This is just normal preventative maintenance. All the grease will pass through the bearing if you keep pumping more and more grease passes through. It’s just pointless to keep pumping because the smallest amount of grease in a bearing will go a long ways and regular greasing would be wise. If you overfill the bearing the motion of the bearing will simply push the excess out past the lip. It’s basically a self regulating system. Your way works fine, however I prefer less work for the same benefits. The point of the video is to avoid that extra work and provide evidence that the so called experts are wrong. Plenty of channels on RU-vid say not to even bother greasing at the zerk but unfortunately they are too lazy to make a video to prove they are right. I got sick of the BS and made my video to prove they are wrong. Grease in fact passes into the bearing and no harm occurs. There is no argument from me that doing it your way won’t work just fine. But the majority of folks are not going to go to to that much trouble when a grease zerk that comes standard on many machines is just fine to get the grease to where it needs to be. Not everyone has the tools or intrest in taking a deck part. And I argue it really won’t do any better for your bearings than how Iv shown. I believe taking things apart that don’t need to come apart could risk something breaking that otherwise would have been just fine. But each person can choose the path. My goal was to prove this way works just fine. Donny boys bad advice sparked this video and I offered him the opportunity to test my theory and help his viewers and after over a year waiting I made my video and Iv already had double the views in much less time so apparently someone finds the information useful and it’s been very interesting for me to see this much attention on a video as I’m not a very popular channel and sometimes go 2 years between making a video. Iv had fun replaying to folks.

@@dennisoneal8505 thanks for the comment and yes I agree, the two metals and storage out doors does not help at all. But recently I got a cheep heat gun and started heating those bolts on the older units and it’s been a game changer. I don’t think Iv had one break yet. As long as I get that puppy hot hot hot! I just lay the gun down and let it run on the spindle housing a while to really heat it up nice and I can go work on something else for a few minutes while it cooks. Wish I’d have figured that out many years ago. Probably a good topic for a video.

@@GTObearclaw1 Great tip! I'll have to remember that.

@@garysumlin8355 huhhh?

@@theobserver9131 good work. And thanks for the comment Did your new units have zerks? Or did you disassemble the unit to manually fill them?

@@GTObearclaw1 they had zerts. took almost FOREVER to fill them. I thought about disassembling them, but I just settled in for about an hour and pumped.

@@GTObearclaw1 It was a "rescue" mower. Just rusting in someones back yard. They gave it to me and I brought it back to life. Just scored a push mower at the dump yesterday! Tore it down and cleaned it up this morning, and put it to work by noon!

@@theobserver9131 my favorite projects are usually the rescues. Got one the other day and only reason it wouldn’t start was because the prior owner had put a fuel cut off in the guile line and the person selling the estate didn’t know that. I didn’t even realize until I got it home and diagnosed it as a fuel issue then found the cut off before I pulled anything apart. I got super lucky!!!

@@crawwwfishh3284 yes sir 100%. Throw away society is what I think. Make it cheeper but sell for a premium. Designs parts don’t last and then make the parts obsolete so we can’t fix it. Handy man world it is. We can make things last. I love finding trash that just needs a little work. I’m more proud of my operational trash finds than I am of the things I spent a bunch of money on. Iv been annoyed about the lack of grease fittings. Each year the equipment has less and less. I have trucks that are 20 plus years old still original steering joints because I just keep greasing them. But some of the new vehicles have zero zerks. Let’s see how that plays out.

@@GTObearclaw1 So true if the commies at u boob don’t erase this I will be watching.

@@markg1247 some good points and you could be right about a lot of things on this topic. I’ll admit you seem to know more about the subject than I care to dive into. Basically I know grease is good and dry bearings are bad and Iv seen plenty of new machines with under 100 hours with total failure of the deck bearings and PTO bearings I will add. you kinda lost traction at pushing a seal off the bearing. Thats not something that happens in these applications. It won’t happen even if you try to make it happen. I cant explain why it’s not an issue because it seems plenty logical but for this application it’s just not a problem. Probably because the assembly is put together in a way that the shields can’t simply back off The bearings while other components are blocking it. No room to move out away from bearing. Or because only one small area of the lip has to give way to let a liquid escape. Regardless of why, Iv never seen it happen once in many years of doing this. If I would have found any draw backs of this application as Iv displayed I would have stated so, but to this day it only has 100% positives and absolutely zero negatives that I have ever encountered. You can pump as many pumps into the assembly as you like wound make any difference to the seal/sheld. Doesn’t matter if it’s a metal shield or plastic or plastic coated shield they all have a lip and that’s where the grease passes. It’s very basic and anything Iv shown can be tested at home. If anyone can prove damage can be caused please feel free to make a video explaining and pointing out the exact damage caused and post the link in my comments. I’ll glad stand behind anything I can duplicate if there is any way this causes damage but after over a decade of nothing but success, I wouldn’t expect to find anything that can be proven other than the absolute Benefits of greasing the assembly till it’s filled. Inner seals do no good one way or another and more less just there for assembly purposes from what I can tell. Has never been proven one way or another. I happen to believe they are more beneficial to be in place for holding grease in the upper bearing. If it only takes 5psi to dislodge a seal, it’s interesting that Iv never seen that happen. Possibly because the assembly is not holding any pressure and the grease simply pushes past the seal under “5psi”. I don’t know the pressures it takes to push through the assembly and I can’t confirm 5psi would push a shield / seal off a bearing, but I can say it’s never happened to me. And nobody in any of the comments in well over two years has ever shown proof. One thing I can say with certainty is that’s is the naysayers with no evidence who argue about this process but many people leave comments who have been doing this for decades and never had any bearing issues. Take it for what it’s worth, do it or don’t do it. I won’t benefit either way, the owner of the mower is the one who will benefit in the end. Point is, the process works just as Iv shown and it’s the simple way to make bearings last. No need to dismantle new decks to remove a shield that presents no opposition to grease passing and no need to spend time dismantling something that has a grease zero already present. Yes, I get it that plenty of folks would rather do it that way because in their brains it just makes more sense, but my point is that the easy way works 100% of the time and is just as good as doing it the hard way and the process I show is much better than just running the deck to failure. Folks can do as they wish with the information. Maybe just giving folks something to think about is enough. Cause nobody else on RU-vid has a video showing to do it this way. But plenty of bad advice on the topic unfortunately.

@@dennisoneal8505 absolutely and then you could access it from the top side of the deck and it would not get covered with grass and hidden. I like that idea.

@@chrisstromberg6527 thanks for the comment.

@@guyclark1479 Iv only found that zerks have been placed on parts that require frequent greasing and when I have kept them greased those parts don’t wear out. Funny that folks want to argue about such simple preventive maintenance.

@@dennisshaughnessy5612 yes, pump them full. The shaft has a hole that lets grease in between the bearings. Same as what I show. Just a better design on yours in my opinion

@@GTObearclaw1 Thank you

@@T.C.8000 actually there is nothing at all wrong with the process how I show it. I use to take bearings out and remove the shields and grease them many years ago before i found there was a better way. Folks can Run some tests for themselves and find the truth. I don’t advise anyone to take the word of a naysayer because they can never provide any evidence of issues and so far all the ones who have left comments always want to talk about other bearing application. This ain’t advice about a boat, race car, air plane, electric motor or anything other than the most bare minimum lawn mower deck maintenance. It’s not nearly as complicated or problematic as you are describing. I realize you’re a naysayer so I challenge you to test the process, please make a video if you find any evidence to prove your points. That’s how we can help folks get to the truth. It would not be the first time Iv been challenged. I have even had one guy from another channel post a video to bash me for being phony and I asked him to make a video showing his proof. He latter removed his video after running some tests at home. If it doesn’t work, it’s odd that it’s worked great 100% of the time for me, and for two decades. More and more folks leaving comments on how they have done this process for decades and never had a bearing fail. The way I show is hands down better than not greasing and letting bearings fail. Yes you can pull the deck apart to grease them individually but most folks will not be doing that process at home. This is the easy way to gain the same benefit. As for causing issues, it won’t. Never has, and I challenge anybody to prove it and post the video here to share. And as for the pressure it takes to pass the seal, it’s almost nothing. Yes a grease gun can build thousands of psi, but it takes only the smallest pressure to push grease past a rubber lip. It’s not gonna hurt anything. It’s a rubber flap. Grease goes past with ease. No need over complicate a simple process. Just think about what is happening during the process and run some tests. Iv shown how, now folks can run tests at home and find the truth. Iv show the way and opened the door. Nobody is forced to use the process but wise to consider this option if the person wants to prolong bearing life without taking bearings out. After doing this for years I now believe it’s actually just a waste of time to do it any other way. Thats my opinion and you have yours but evidence is of importance more than an opinion and Iv shown the evidence. In addition you can put all the grease on the shaft that you want but a healthy bearing will always spin at the point of least resistance and in 20 years Iv never seen a inner race on a bearing in this application spin on a shaft or the outer bearing spin on the hosing side unless the assembly was ran to total failure due to lack of grease. Even when bearings are burn up and melted the inner race has never showed any signs of spinning on the shaft. and if that one point your trying to make won’t hold water why should anyone take any other point you try to make as truth. Your argument is simply not facts and only assumptions and yes theoretically sound possible but in my experience have never been true. Thats why I say show the proof, Iv never seen it once and I couldn’t reproduce your claims if I wanted to because Iv never seen any of that not one time. If you have been into hundreds of decks you would know that some things just don’t happen even though it sounds plausible. As you may or may not have seen in my other videos, some decks were ran to total failure. Anyone who thinks it’s smarter to dismantle a perfectly good working deck that is equipped with grease zerks should carefully consider the proof shown in this video if they want to save money, headaches and time. As for those folks without a zerk on the mandrels of there decks, add one while your in there greasing bearings manually so next time it can be easily done. And consider only buying a tractor that has greasable deck in the future if a new tractor is needed. The industry is slowly getting away from adding zerks and unfortunately it cost the folks who buy the equipment. As for naysayers, I’m not holding my breath that anybody will ever come through with some solid evidence that any part of my process can harm a shield seal or do anything other than benefit the bearings. So far nada in that department and that’s just the facts. Part 2 is my love letter to naysayers.

@@keithberry366 I’m not gonna be the best source for that information I don’t specifically think any grease is bad or better just keeping bearings greased has worked 100% for me and Iv never wasted much time or had concern over Qulity. For my needs ordinary grease and oils work fine if kept serviced properly. My grease gun is just off the shelf auto parts store gun has worked fine for me. I don’t even know the brand. I do love the locking grease coupler and have tried a few, lock and lube is by far my favorite and I also use a grease needle often and works best with a lock n number coupler to make install and removing needle very easy. Not having a releasable fitting can make getting a needle out of a grease gun impossible.

@@jefferybernard4800 hard to say for sure, as for the grease I suspect that like many things they have cut back to a minimum for a combination of reasons, less grease less life so more parts sold more machines bought, more repairs sent to dealers also resulting in more parts sold because most the shops will recommend to a customer to buy a new deck or a new mandrel assembly when in most cases a simple bearing or a little welding can repair the issue. The companies may think that’s the way to make better profits but no way we can know for sure. I believe they engendered the failure into the machines. It’s easy to speculate. Regardless I will find some of the ways to keep them running longer and at less cost to the owner and share what I think is relevant to help folks overcome the shortcomings.

@@jimschaffroth5652 no I sold it

@@MusicGodsNFT thanks for the comment. Some stamped decks are great like the Kubota and gt5000 and other 54” Husqvarna built tractors had one heck of a stamped deck. Have to watch out these days, they know the fabricated decks sell so they make some cheep ones that look good but still junk.

@@hankosaurus have you ever seen grease come out anywhere?

@@PeroPopara-hk8fq it’s simply preventive maintenance. Real basic stuff. Dont know what you’re shocked about nor do I comprehend exactly what you typed.

@@GTObearclaw1 Instruction for doomies, slow runing ball bearing (under 5000 rpm) greasing max. 30% FREE place. Sealed or not. Bearing with metal protecting do not protecting from dust and wather. Bearing marke 2ZZ or double sealed is long time greasing in factory end never need regreaseing. Why we demontage bearing? First, bearing overheating, seconde bearing vibrating, and the therd bearing make noise. IN all 3 case bearing is demaged and must be replaced. And last, somthing interes ti g for you. Hors wagon wheel greasing whith black low viscosity grese, slow runing bearing with midle viscosity grese, but bearing on overtable router, mean 30 000 rpm and over greasing with high pressure oiled air. Best manufacturer slow speed bearing (under 8 000 rpm) is TIMKEN, SKF and FAG. For high speed only Japanes, KOYO and, NSK. Open any hand electric tool and look bearing., You see bearing without grese, bi clearens and only 5 ball, but these bearing working on 30 000 rpm without noise, vibrations and heating. Good luck and long lice you and your fammily from beautiful Republic of Croatia.

@@PeroPopara-hk8fq don’t muddy the water sir, my videos are not about electric tools and bearings that spin 30,000 or 8,000 rpm. I’m strictly showing how to service a lawn mower. Most riding mowers blades will turn at speeds between 2,800 to 3,200 rpm. A lot of things come into play here. but mostly the length of the blade. On average the tip speed on the blades on this type of mower will be in the 200 - 250 mph range. As usual seems we have another naysayer presenting information not relevant to the specific topic of mower deck mandrels. I’m specifically covering how to service a mower deck bearing. If you have evidence and can provide such on a video please come back and drop us a link. Otherwise consider this option if you want your mower deck bearings to live a long life. I can assure you that double sided shielded bearings won’t last forever in this application. They need grease or replacement is coming in due time. I’ll let other folks deal with videos about bearings that spin 30,000rpm. That’s has nothing to do with my video.

@@PeroPopara-hk8fq did you delete your reply?

@@dennisoneal8505 thanks for subscribing and appreciate the confirmation that this practice has worked for you. It may be just what the guy reading the comments needs to see to help someone else realize how simple this is and that it is worth a try. Much more to gain than to loose.

@@dennisoneal8505 that’s about the only conclusion I can come up with. It’s just so stupid. But hay, wouldn’t be the first time an engineer did something dumb.

@@dennisoneal8505 Thai is exactly the kind of comment I tell the naysayers to read. Folks like you had the common sense or someone smarter than me to help long before I figured this out. I can’t believe nobody else has ever posted this information on a video. At least not that I can find. Please check out my newest video I made a few days ago. I had to throw a few punches at the lazy naysayers who won’t back their BS claims about this not working as Iv shown.

@@kenholt8297 thanks for leaving a comment. I just posted another video on this topic that kinda aims at the ones with weep holes and sorry about the rant at the end, I had to slip in some of my opinion on the naysayers. Hope you will check out the new video it was just posted a few days ago.

@@billsmith1770 I have yet to see one with tapered bearings and a weep hole. I mostly deal with the cheep box store models. Those decks seem to be the ones breaking.

@@viewer54322 absolutely, if anyone ever finally does show proof you can bet I’ll be debunking it with a detailed break down. I don’t think it’s gonna happen if nobody has been able to for three years, and some have tried. But I’d love to see it. I’m sick of the naysayers all tucking tail and running. Put in some effort and prove it to us woth evidence. Thanks for the comment.

@@robertmailhos8159 regardless where the zerk is, the grease exits the shaft between the bearings and works just like the one in my video. Thankfully yours should not have a weep hole so you can just pump it full. You should feel a slight pressure increase in the pumping just before it exits the unit somewhere at top or bottom. Sometimes I can feel it sometimes I can’t. But you can expect 50 to 75 pumps before you fill the unit completely if they are new they are sure to be empty.

@@GTObearclaw1 thanks for letting me know about how many times I have to pump up the spindles to get the Grease in them @GTObearclaw1

@@robertmailhos8159 yes happy to help and thanks for leaving a comment.

@@GTObearclaw1 you are welcome @GTObearclaw1

@@timothyhults2549 I’m not in disagreement, I think they try to put just enough grease in to get the machine past warranty and then bearings start failing. They also fail To show how to properly grease these assemblies and hope that folks will buy parts rather than perform Preventive maintenance. Big corp is not our friend.

@@mpatrick7860 thanks for the comment. Since nobody else would show the process and prove grease goes through the bearings I felt like it could be helpful for some folks.

@@GTObearclaw1 I JUST saw another video that stated the sealed bearings can't take grease! But you proved it! I just bought new spindles because I think the previous owner never greased these. So they are ruined. I got the new ones out of the box and I think they have zero grease in them. So gonna pre grease mine before installation. I'm gonna put the nuts/pulleys and blades on it though so it can't hydraulically separate the assembly because I think it could happen. Apparently.....grease is the word.....LOL

@@RobBot34 thank you for leaving a comment in support. The naysayers never stop. But some folks appreciate the truth.

I'm a weekend warrior, and I know what I'm doing this weekend. 👍

@@weseehowcommiegoogleis3770 man that’s fantastic and your ahead of me figuring this out by about 5 to 10 years. I wish I’d have known sooner. It just amazes me how many folks argue about this topic. Naysayers are only wasting their time and money. It’s good to see comments like yours.

@@KevinMiller-lh9ur yours is a commercial grade model and built in a time before they even made this junk 100 series. Yours is a superior model. Even the paint job is of higher quality. Keeping one inside is smart.

This comment is not to help you but for the third party that might see this and consider your comment to have any relevance. You sound like the typical expert and I doubt you will ever take time to run some tests or consider anything other than what you think you already know to be true. Without running tests you only know what you’re told. And what you choose to believe is your choice. I’m sure you trust your other sources more than me but I’m only talking mower decks here. This could also be useful information but folks who are stuck on other applications won’t typically accept this advice and don’t think outside the application they are “experts at” experts like to think they know everything about bearings because what they know for one type must fit all applications. Seems logical I guess. so hopefully the effort I put into this comment can help someone else who really wants to find the truth and is willing to do some hands on tests. lots to unpack here, first I can say not all bearings come with the same quality or amount, Iv noticed some have almost none and others have a lot. And this is from the same box of bulk bearings of the same part number. So that’s BS statement for the bearings in this application. Quality of bearing and many other factors could be involved in how much and what quality grease will be in the bearing. Most likely the important aspect would be the bearing application and how high quality is needed. I do not advise to remove the shield but at the same time the inner shield being gone for this application won’t matter one bit. Some bearings don’t come with an inner facing shield, some do. I just wanted to prove the grease will pass the shield if it is there. And it clearly did not cause a problem in my video and also never has caused an issue and not one single time in my life has it ever been an issue, if you noticed in the video both shields stayed in place none had dislodged after grease was applied. And that’s exactly why I did a detailed step by step process to show how all the naysayers are wrong. No contamination is inside the assembly unless someone waits years to grease and some moisture gets in the assembly some rust can develop but I would say regardless it is better to have more grease in the bearings than it would be to let them run dry and guarantee failure. I invite all naysayers to please please post some videos and show us the link right here. We are eager to see some proof of what you speak. I’m not working on boats, aircraft, rockets, race cars, we are just talking mower deck bearings. So what you’re saying is one bearing should be addressed just like every bearing. One process for one bearing applies to the whole group? Are you saying Not any bearings in the world can be greased as I’m shown for any applications? So you say you may damage the seal? The way you say it sounds like you’re not very confident. Using the word MAY, And no you can’t put too much in these for this application more is better. The shields don’t hold pressure. Grease passes right out the outer shield. No, don’t forget about the zerk, use it. Dang that was a great example of the experts who try to give us advice. Sorry but your information is absolutely garbage. Rather than get mad about it, consider you’re not as knowledgeable as you think you are. Nobody knows everything. You have an opportunity to grow from this. Run some tests see what happens. I’ll even give you the most simple test you could ever do, grease one side as Iv shown and run the other side as is and see what side lasts longer. These bearings in box store and even some tractors considered commercial grade won’t last over 300 hours without grease added. Keep in mind that the average home owner has no interest in dismantling a deck and replacing parts that require tear down time and parts when it could simply be greased through a zerk that is put there by the manufacturer. This stuff ain’t rocket science and as I showed clearly in my video it works fantastically and plenty of folks doing it this way are sharing comments that it’s been working just fine for decades. Some folks are too smart and overthink this application and will never try it but it’s also helping many folks and that’s why I made it. Not all folks will be able to absorb this simple installation. Rather than run an experiment many folks will always assume they are smarter and know better even though they can’t reference anything backing their claims. In two years no naysayers have provided a video to show of any downsides. I’ll keep waiting. Why would anyone trust the company selling the equipment when they say something can’t be serviced? They ultimately make more money by selling parts and equipment. If I can keep my equipment running without buying replacement machines and or replacing parts I win and use my $ elsewhere. I’ll trust the facts that Iv done the trial and error to learn. No thanks on lifetime bearings and lifetime transmission fluid, this stuff has been debunked.

Never known of a model number. I think it was before that time. I don’t think they had specific model numbers but I could be wrong. Woodsman double door is what I call it.

Ok, thanks for the quick reply. The stove I got has some cracks by the hinges that need to be repaired but can't wait to have it all fixed and polished up.

Probably just friction from the blade spinning loose and getting hot from metal To metal Friction. It may have got the bearings hot. I’m sure the rubber shield lips didn’t like it. But I’d keep it greased and run it. Sorry to hear about that and yes we all have mistakes.

Thanks. Appreciate the comment. Just curious how you know if it does or does not have seals / shields on the bearings of its been going strong this whole time and you never needed to go into the deck for repairs of the bearings? All the box store machines Iv been working on ranging back 25 years have all had the inner shields.

@@GTObearclaw1 I have taken it apart a year after I bought it because I didn't grease it and burned the bearings out of it! And had to replace them and the wheelhouse because that was melted and twisted! Plus this is a Kubota Zero turn 18 HP Diesel and I don't think they use them but I could be wrong! The first year when I bought it I greased it about once a month and I only put like one or two pumps of grease in it I just didn't know any better but after that, I grease it every time I mow and I grease it well!

@@The1313jeff that really cleared up all of my questions and thank you. I’d sure expect better from kubota but I’m glad to know of your experience with it. Thank you. They all need grease. That’s for sure!!!

@@GTObearclaw1 Thanks it wasn't Kubota's fault it was all mine But it has been a good mower like I said I have had it for about 24 years now and it has done very well. There are good tractors just got to take care of them!

@@The1313jeff I’d say absolutely good, Kubota is my favorite brand - I’m sure not trying to discount the brand!!!

They don’t care. Some folks will argue that I’m wrong till they are blue in the face. I actually sent a reply to Donny boy a year before I made this video hoping he would reconsider and run some tests but he is lazy or just doesn’t care about providing accurate information so I no longer trust his advice. I now realize he is an expert on everything and that doesn’t make much sense to me. Some folks know a lot but nobody knows everything. He is only after views and not the truth. Anyways, thank you and you are absolutely welcome to share all you like but after two years I still have not seen anybody else take time to run tests in a video to prove what really happens. Why won’t they just try it? Strange. I don’t see why folks wouldn’t just try it and show proof of why it won’t work rather than just denying it without any proof. That should tell us something. Plenty of naysayers ready to give their expert advice but usually quick to follow up they have only worked on a few decks or have background in aircraft or some other type of bearings. To many experts on this topic willing to tell us how this works and not enough experts willing to show us any real proof. Seems strange to me. Why is it so hard to show in the video why not to do it this way? I didn’t want to make another video but I’m glad I did. It has been interesting to see how many comments I get. I haven’t made a video since. Probably will eventually if I can find a topic that might be helpful.

@@GTObearclaw1 I'm glad you did (make a video, that is). 👍

The only thing I’m stating about the bearings is that grease will push past the lip on shield and it’s silly to argue that fact. Just connect a grease gun like I did and the grease gets into the bearing. Mystery solved. So technically yes I’m exactly right because it works like I said it does. Opinions are of zero importance here. I have proven it. I have displayed in a video with step by step I instructions anyone can easily follow. It’s most certainly not magic my good sir. Do you have some facts you care to share? Any sources to back your opinion? anything other than your opinion. Only facts matter. This is a source to help people. If you have something based on fact that can be beneficial to the DIY community please don’t hesitate to share.