Hay thanks bud, i get a kick out of all the butt hurt this video caused. Brings out a Bunch of cry babies. I made it to help the regular guy who just wanted to fix it fast And easy. Hay, I am one of your subscribers. Cool to see you comment on one of my videos.
Thank you for showing us what must needs be done, without guys like you, most of us would never know the extent john deere would go to, to build these junk heaps to be irreparable.
Great idea and had not occurred to me to do it that way. Not having your slick pully system I simply wedged a 2x4 under the lip of the back to hold it in place while the tank slipped out and back in. Back in place in no time and no visible bend in the body. Many thanks for the post!
Harry Moedinger Glad you got it done sir. This was my first attempt dealing with fuel tank swap on this particular model. Maybe yours had the smaller tank. I had to lift it quite a bit higher to get that larger tank out. I went back in with a smaller tank off the older L model and had plenty of extra clearance going back in with the replacement tank. It's the same tractor just the Oder series.
Hey thanks for the video. Works slick as heck and saved me a pile of time and frustration. I used a jack-all instead of a lift, anything to lift the back would work I guess.
MrErbus cool, glad you got it done sir. Nice to see someone do it this way rather than just complain about it hurting the tractor. I don’t think some folks realize the work involved in removing the dash to get that body off. And how this way is more practical. Some folks act like it’s a repair on a space shuttle.
I inherited this exact mower when I bought my house, they’re a workhorse for sure I’ve wire tied a couple of sensors just to keep it going (seat sensor, and blade) my tank recently cracked like a MF! Gonna remove my tank the exact same way 😂!! Thanks for the shortcut buddy
Thanks for the comment, helping folks like you is exactly why I posted this video. You and many others just want the machine to operate and get the job done. While others are still loosing sleep that I took a short cut. Lol. Cracks me up how sensitive some folks are about this video.
I've seen 2 videos yours and the "correct" way. I don't have enough time to do it the "correct" way. Thanks for the vid, I have the L100, which is the smaller tank so it should be no problem.
Thank you for this video! I'm working on resurrecting an LA105 that's been sitting up for two or more years. New carburetor and starter solenoid, cleaned the flywheel and magneto, and a fresh plug. Oh, and oil change and air filter. Anyway...not getting fuel to the filter. I blew the line out and got bubbles back to the tank, but still no gas. The next step is R&R the gas tank, which looked like a time consuming task, until I saw this!
Seal all works on all gas tanks Gas or oil will not effect it I have used it on many lawnmower gas tanks with cracks on the bottom of the tank Great Video
Cool, thanks for the comment. Maybe yours has the smaller tank. The smaller tank can be pulled out easer than the big tank and does not require lifting the fender as high.
Been a mechanic for over 40 years , worked with many Hack Job Techs before over the years. This tops the list , only if the buyer or owner could have see this . You even say it's a piece of junk and don't care 🤔 Surprised you didn't get out the drywall screws for this incorrect tank 😂
If this tops your list, you must have been asleep 40 years. If you ever tried a tank swap by removing dash on one of these models, you would absolutely do it this way the next time. The fact you left the comment tells me you have not attempted such a repair on this model Deere. I posted the video to help those folks looking to get the tractor going again. Not everybody gets but hurt over such repairs.
Parker Birch your a dingleberry of a special kind. Dumb as a rock I’m sure. Have you ever fixed anything? These mowers were engineered to be junk. Some of the worst mowers ever sold. That’s why I’m not taking time to fix it right you twit. Just helping folks keep these Turds running as long as possible without spending 8 hrs disassembling the whole tractor to remove the gas tank. Get lost.
bit late on this thread but have to agree with Russ here. thereʻs the expensive way to do something like this, by the book $$$$, and then the way heʻs done it which saves a hell of a lot of money/time and is just as effective. 9 out 10 customers would like Russʻ way!
Sometimes it makes you wonder about the “engineering” of these. I still have a 1973 Cub Cadet that runs circles around my JD 118 and it’s so simple to get to all the parts.
some people called these models junk,i have a l105 i have been using for at least 10 years mowing 2 acres every week,changed i spindle and the battery since i have owned it,still runs and mows like new
Generally speaking when it comes to failure rate and some major design issues and when compared to some tractors that cost less that are better quality I think these are junk. 10 years is nothing for a rising mower. They should all last at least that long for a home owner than uses less than 40 hrs a year. It’s easier to compare quality on machines when your working on the them every day. I like John Deere but mostly the commercial grade like GT and X series are at another level.
Great tutorial! I have one that needs that tank you put in and I was treading the idea of taking the body off the chassis,now I don't have to. That saves a whole lot of time! Thanks again!
Ronnie Wortham how did it go? Get it done? A few guys getting bent outa shape over how I did this tank swap. But seems like it’s helping a lot more than it upsets. those guys can spend hours tearing the tractor apart but seems silly to me.
Thanks a lot for your technique on getting the gas tank out . I didn't have the hoist that you had I just ran a long 2x4 out of the bed of the pickup which acted as my boom then I used a ratchet strap off the end of the 2x4 which was 10 feet long. Then your technique worked like a charm .
Gary Minick - Nice, I like the way you think. 100 ways to do it. Glad you were able to get it fixed without disassembling the tractor to remove the dash. What did you think about it affecting the body? So funny how many people crying over that. And I bet not one attempted to pull the dash off for such a basic repair.
@@thedailyvariety4407 Iv done it to a few dozen the past few years. Beats spending hours dismantling the tractor to replace a tank. Especially considering most these with this tank are over 10 years old already and not many are in very good cosmetic condition anyways. And on top of that, mechanically it will not harm anything and it is only a cosmetic issue where the body slightly bends at the outer edges of foot rests that will crack the paint and cause paint to chip and rust but Iv had many that had good paint and were garage kept and the paint actually stayed intact. I took a little more causation and just lifted the rear body enough to slip the tank out making it slightly more difficult but it helped prevent breaking the paint at the are discussed. All in all, if im swapping a smaller tank and I’m careful even a professional would not know how I did it. So more than likely folks get charged full labor and get this quick job. Mine as well do it yourself and save some money. Something this easy is crazy to not do yourself. I’m not necessarily saying you, just anybody who owns one of the fine specimens of a Deere.
@@GTObearclaw1 I watched another RU-vid video of a guy who does it by removing several screws, bolts and nuts. According to the comments, it took like 30 minutes or so to complete. If was my mower, I would probably just bend her up. But it is one I sold to a friend.
tie straps work wonders on make shift repairs like this just drill small hole in those two pieces sticking up and tie to the rear of body.pull tight and wala.
What model do you have? Is it the cheep Deere from Home Depot? 100 series. If so why even worry about it? Lol. It was junk when it rolled off the assembly line.
@@shaun4bigblocksllc views, lol. If I cared about views I’d make more video. I might have posted two this year. I just post things I think will help some folks. Nothing any of us do will ever make everyone happy and we will never have 100% of folks agree with how we do something so why worry about it? I sure don’t worry about it. what does “true JD” mean? actually they are true John Deere. Maybe not the John Deere your dad or grandpa had but John Deere makes them. These are just cheep mowers and build way lower quality than what John Deere is known for. Yea you could waste a lot of time and money doing all that stuff to a 100 series, but dang, that’s stupid in my opinion. Just spend less money and buy a AYP - Electrolux / Husqvarna rather than a cheep box store Deere to begin with and end up with a better machine for less money or similar cost depending on what brand or model. But Ariens is one of the AYP tractors you can get that AYP built and they are better quality than the cheep Deere. You have opinions like everyone else. I disagree with almost everything you said. Sorry you don’t like the way I did a gas tank swap on a mower Model that I dislike in the first place. Just showing folks with a cheep green junk pile how to save time. As for the bearings in the wheels, I disagree, no need to replace. Almost all the box store models run the bushing rather than bearings. If folks will grease the bushings they hold up just fine for regular duty use. Iv never once found an issue with one that was greased. Only the ones that were not greased had issues and even the ones with bearings require grease. How do lugged rims make any difference? Technically I did nothing wrong. I did it the way I wanted. There are no laws regulating how to change a gas tank. Some folks understand where I’m coming from with this and It helps those who want to do it this way. Yea, not for everyone. But then again I don’t pretend a 100 series Deere is a quality machine. It’s the worst riding mower on the market other than MTD built junk and the John Deere 100 series is just as big a pile of junk parts with a green paint job as any MTD Iv worked on. Is the front cast iron axle commonly breaking on these part of the rock solid chassis?
You might be over exaggerating just a smidge. It really didn’t bend it much. And keep in mind this was the larger tank so most units with the smaller tank don’t require lifting the rear body so high. Just offering help For those who don’t care about bending the body just a little to swap a tank real quick.
Dansyoutube not at all, I actually had to lift this one higher because it had the larger tank. Most have a small tank and you don’t have to lift the rear very high to slip the smaller tanks in and out. You would never be able to tell after repair.
FYI some of the early 2000 year model Scott’s and sabres also have the same tanks and some have a small tank and some use a larger tank they will both fit and only require a braket to be installed to support the smaller tank or removed to allow the larger tank. It’s a simple Bracket that does not require bolts or any hardware. Maybe you can find a older non running tractor that you can buy for parts. Just be sure to check tank very well first. I see these tractors post often for 100$ or less in my area on marketplace. Great deal to grab one for parts if price is right. Iv been tying to figure out how to replace these older tanks with the newer tanks off the D series and up but I haven’t figured out how to make it work yet but may have time soon and will make a video when I do.
got the same problem with my John Deere 155c but I'm not going to lift the body like u did instead I'm just gonna strip it down since I'm rebuilding the engine anyway , but thats a great idea only if John Deere didn't make it so hard to replace the tank.
Shrek yea, they could have made body pan stop before going under the dash like they did on the G100 or several of the other better quality models. L,LA and D 100series are trash with a Jd pint job. I could have swapped it without bending the body pan if it would have had the smaller size tank but it had some huge freaking wanker of a tank.
What risk? Maybe chipping the paint is about it. These things are already the bottom rung of the Deere ladder. Do you have a 100 series? How much do you care about a little bendy bendy. It’s a quick swap that way. If your real Worrroed about it looses the dash up, I’m told by a bunch of folks who really get but hurt over bending the body that taking the dash of is just as fast. I don’t think so and this is how I be doing it.
@Woodchuck Russ the Deck Dr I'm not one of those people worried about doing it your way. But I have to replace the gas tank on my dad's la140. If it were to snap, then I would have to buy a new body. Only reason I asked how risky it is. His is a large tank and will be replaced with same large tank, so gonna have to bend up several inches to jockey the new tank in. Thanks
Not sure they wouldnt have scoped out the frame fastening points first. I’m considering the same task as there is junk in the tank and I could get a better look at the transaxle while doing so. Unfastening the frame bolts would mean having to tilt the console fwd to remove the frame from the chassis at least that’s what I had deduced. Seems like a rush job with long term consequences.
Paul Warner your talking about long term consequences on a piece of junk Deere model that will not last long term. Sounds like your already having concerns about the rear end. I don’t think taking a better look from the top of the axel will help anything. I can pull the transaxle out faster than I can take the dash apart. The rear end will usually cost more than the tractor is worth. So if your having issues, I think bending the body panel slightly will be the least of your concerns. If you only want to flush junk out of the tank, I’d drain the tank and let it dry then suck the debris out with a shop vac. If you want to pull all the dash hardware to avoid slightly bending the body by the feet rest, be my guest. Iv unbolted the dash many times while performing other repairs and I’ll avoid it if at all possible. There is a lot of junk to deal with up there. But if you don’t do this stuff every day and have time, I’d go for it. I can’t see spending so much labor on a junk tractor when it can be fixed in a few minutes. But everyone has there way. If it was a quality machine or a hot rod, I’d take the extra time.
Woodchuck Russ the Deck Dr Thanks for your input. You are right, I dont do this every day and so would have a different approach to encompass other items. I do have a concern with my transaxle and so would like to learn what may be the cause and it seem like the right approach in doing so. My Deere is now 15 yo and still going strong with some minor issues. Thanks for the input.
If the trans is loosing power after it warms up then is most likely going out. Check for any viable leaks? You can attempt to replace the oil but that’s no easy task. And Iv done so with not positive effects after all the trouble. Most that I have seen are sealed units so trans has to come out and be separated to change oil. Long process. You can find a complete rider that is not running on Facebook market place for dirt cheep and use the rear end. That is the cheep way,
@@GTObearclaw1 Fucking funny, but right on! I just got a JD LA155 and it has a huge-ass crack on the gas tank and it has 14.5 hours on it. Tell me, how is this frigging possible?? Ui vey! I swear, the craftsman I just picked up a few days before this one landed on my lap runs and works a lot better!
@@RottBit77 probably because your hour meter is broken or it was replaced would be why a 10 to 15 year old model tractor would be showing low hours. And as far as the gas tank cracked, welcome to the party. John Deere used some Terrable quality tanks in the L 100s and the LA 100’s. About half of the 100 Series I get with this type of tank have issues with the tank. If they were ever left in the sun that really does it.
Take a look at dees nuts. Good lord that video he made is hard to sit through. It’s way too long. It took him longer to explain how to get the handles off the levers than it did for me to swap a tank. That’s the point of why I did it this way. I don’t care if it looks original, I care if it works.
after watching several videos on this problem, it seems that yanking up on the body with such little consequence aids in stress relief for the pissed off repair person, LOL. Why would John Deere create a crappy fuel system and make it impossible to get to!
xFrShizzLEx Well, it's really pointless to spend an hour removing the dash to lift the body off just to avoid slightly bending it. As a customer, I would not want to pay that extra labor. It's actually one of the easiest repairs and can easily be done without sending mower to a shop. One could use a ratchet strap or come along to lift body.
xFrShizzLEx, because JD don’t want the owner working on it. They’re designed for the frustrated owner to call the shop for service and probably a pickup and delivery fee as well.
Ol' Ben they are in luck, world is full of folks that gladly pay what ever they say it’s gonna cost. Reminds me of an old saying, A fool and his money shall soon be parted. I’m just over here fixing stuff and having fun. Keeps me out of trouble.
Minister Victor Simmons - well, if it’s a quality model like x series deere, I’d take time to do it right. But if it’s a cheep Home Depot or lows model (anything Deere such as the ( L, LA, D or E series) you have a pile of junk to start with. Getting upset over a slight bending of the foot rests is not going to make it any worse. They are already the absolute worst mower ever made. And that’s pretty bad because MTD really tries hard to make the worst. So for Deere to show up MTD and put out an even bigger trash fire, I’m impressed. I’d be more upset that I didn’t read reviews and wasted money on a junk throw away tractor. But nahhhh, lets just complain about a cheep fix. Who knows, maybe your being sarcastic but these other clowns really think there home Depo Deere is a good machine that just cost less than half of what a true quality Deere cost.
Minister Victor Simmons D series is the newer model but the same as what I have in the video. D series is in fact the “big box store tractor” lowest level of Deere. Like I said before. I would have taken more time to fix an X series or a GT or anything other than the L, LA, D or E series Deere. My advice for anyone who has the L, LA, D or E series, sell it while it’s working and looking good. And get an X series. Heck, get a craftsman, cub cadet, Ariens, or Poulan. Anything and I mean anything is better than the entry model Deere. At the very least, keep it parked indoors and don’t ever use water to wash it. Just blow it off with a leaf blower after every mowing. But don’t get it wet. Definitely don’t let it sit in the rain. The decks are not properly painted on the L, La, D and E series tractors. For that matter neither is the body. Any water gets under the paint where there is a crack in the paint and it starts to rust under the paint and peal off. It’s absolutely ridiculous the corners that were cut on these mowers. And on top of that, even after these issues are reported on multiple reviews they still keep building the same way. I 100% believe Deere has had 4 model name changes to confuse customers and throw potential buyers off the trail of bad reviews. They keep making them worse, now they come with a plastic Transaxel. Not saying the other brands way better. But with everything Iv seen over the years, nothing is worse. They did sell these things like crazy, I mean, the price looks great for a Deere mower. Just not Deere quality.
Unlike most gas cans with ‘safety valves’, this one is EASY to operate ru-vid.comUgkx6IImIpPboNrtVJSROnpF9EnyBzRrJKP_ with one hand. Nudge the tab and press the thumb button (all with your thumb) and you’re filling your tank. I bought this to use with a pressure washer that needs frequent refilling and it’s been a blessing compared to most of the ‘safety cans’ being sold. ergonomic and easy to handle.
Sunny knock us out a quick video of that please. Have you tried that with the larger tank? I’m game for any good ideas that save time. This way works slick.
Woodchuck Russ the Deck Dr sorry I committed to quick and didn’t notice it was a bigger tank. The little one you just installed will slide in and out from the side.
Not necessarily a hack all The time. Just when it comes to These box store Deere. 100 Series are trash. And I treat them as such. As Most folks know who own one, you will Work on it more than you mow with it. No need to insult me because you think i short cut this repair. I admit that I definitely short cut it. Why waste a bunch of time on it. Tanks are junk, they crack. Decks are junk, thin and break, paint is junk, body not primered paint peals off, transmission are week and break frequently. Probably won’t last long before something else fails. These tractors are known to be lemons more times than not. Such a great reputation that Deere changed the model number every 4 years now because reviews are so bad. They try to make it look Like a Different tractor. But sadly they are still The same junk after 20 Years. Not going to spend a bunch of time worrying about bending the edges of the body. I didn’t flex the frame. Thanks for being rude. You can get mad and be rude because you own one. I happen to know more about the 100 Series box store models than most people and my advice is to get aways from them and get a tractor that is enjoyable to operate. After using a X series it’s difficult for me to even spend time testing these junky things. Most folks will Never undertstand the difference between a great mower and a true pile of junk Deere 100 Series. Mainly because they won’t spend a little more money to get a great machine. And settle for these because they are cheep. But yet those same folks will pay for fast food and cable TV and waste money somewhere else.
ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MukgVsyAzTQ.html for those folks who can’t deal with lifting the rear body, here is a guy who does the same thing and he gives a much better explanation. Enjoy the vid.
These aren't no tractors a real tractor can push snow without the back wheels spinning their not even tractor tires their only made for mowing grass and pulling a wagon around not much more than that That's why i always call um a driving mower or riding mower But its always funny hearing people say it's a tractor well shit they can't even ride a few feet in 4 inches of snow.
Dave R - are you the expert on rigged up messes? Folks getting butt hurt like I’m fixing classic corvettes over here and I’m just getting a old mower running.
it's not hard to do this the right way, took me less then 2 hours to replace tank, and didn't bend the body to do it. this is a sorry way to do this . look on youtube, not hard to find better directions
karmsnigguh yea, that’s Your opinion. Super interesting stuff. It sure opens my eyes to reality. So for that I thank you. I’m a changed man. Actually, Opinions are like b holes everybody’s got one and they all stink. So you like to spend two hours on a 5 minute repair. That’s swell. I’m thrilled for you. Maybe not everyone wants to waste two hours for a job that can be done in 5 minutes. I personally don’t think you did it in two hours but even if you did I’m not wasting two hours on this repair. You are welcome to make a video or just run your mouth. Whatever you prefer. Did you even read the comments? Seems like a lot of folks are just happy to find a fast easy way to swap tanks. You were probably too busy patting yourself on the back to look at the comments. Hate to break the news to ya but these big box store Deere tractors are junk and if you want to spend 2 hrs every time it needs repair you will be a busy guy. Sad they didn’t even prep the body on these L, LA, D and E series before painting these beauts. So far these are the lowest quality machines iv ran into. Glad your treating yours like a high end unit that it’s not. If I had a quality Deere tractor like the x series I’d take a little more time to keep it pretty. As for the big box store models I give no respect.
Lucky? How so? I’m not a big fan of any of The Deere 100 series and even the commercial models have crappy plastic hoods. Deere is probably making bank on replacement hoods so they won’t make a good durable hood. Smart way to make profit but sad they do customers that way.
