Hi, my name is Andrew and this is my journey through the world of CNC manufacturing at a job shop. Applying the knowledge I have acquired while continuing to expand that knowledge and sharing my experience along the way.
Ive been a welder/fabby for thirty years, I hate it. For the last year Ive been learning/training in a mill that looks the same as this one. exact same 4th axis and 20 tool changer. The one I use is bigger I think but hard to tell on screen. I forget the name but the software is FANUC
From one machinist to another, files are a one way tool. They dull faster when drug backwards. Carbide doesn't like 2 things, mechanical shock and thermal shock. Make your first pass conventional when dealing with flame cut. (.060" into the work is hardened from the flame) Having the cutting edge enter the soft material first then exit the harder material will increase tool life (Both HSS and Carbide.) I know that turning off coolant makes for an excellent shot, it's when the coolant is turned back on that the carbide gets micro cracks from thermal shock, thus reducing tool life. In creating the soft jaws or any fixturing where you locate on radii or an angle terminating into a radius, eliminate the radius in the fixture or the area where the X or Y axis changes direction. Without the G187 P3 E.005 on the finish pass (Haas only) the axis will start and stop aprox. .025" from the actual transition point, therefore the male and female radii will not match and cause the part to rock. My rule of thumb was to eliminate that feature in the fixture up to .050" from the transition points to avoid this. @ 14:16, make the radius on the solid jaw either larger or just a flat leaving space that way you avoid the mismatch and locate exactly each time. You're making some good looking parts tho! A testament to your teacher.
Horizontals have one major advantage in my eyes and that is chip evacuation. I'm working on 2 vertical spindle machines (Haas VF2 SSYT 2020 machine, Dahlih MCV 720 idk which year that is, but all I can say is that it is quite a bit older) (in my company we have only 2 mills and it's enough to do all the work necessary for company needs - we're making parts for ourselves if you could say that) Edit: I would love to make parts of that size, that would be really cool and fun to machine.
Would love to hear more detail right from the get go about what tools you’re using, materials, speeds and feeds, depth of cut, step over, maybe showing the cad and cam, etc. I know it takes a lot more work but it would make the watch much more worth while so i feel like I’ve gained knowledge by seeing your perspective on things and what’s going on in your head while programming or setting up. Love the video quality tho and getting to see it from start to finish! Keep it up! See you in the next video!
monsterjaws.com When time is fleeting in the day and things need to get done it’s super useful to be able to get some. And for me they’re local so I can pick up
Both things you mentioned have to do with making sure the work piece is clamped properly. The file is for removing high spots left on the edges. Tapping it down is bc the movable jaw in the vise will lift the work ever so slightly, and tapping it sets it back into place
badass video! I just now realized I load my tools in a weird way. It looked like you loaded all the tools for the job into the mill and then probed the tool length. I usually put a tool in and measure the tool length before loading the next tool (that's how the haas tech showed me how to load tools for a job).
I came from machining as a hobby so I'm sure I'm not following best practices a lot! Thanks for showing us how you set everything up! I love learning via youtube.@@dnamfg
Nice work. How did you pick up the x-axis coordinate for the work offset when you had the piece upright for the large diameter bores? You showed the probe getting Y, and the Z would be straightforward, but it seems getting the x isn’t so simple. Did you get it with the probe after determining the Y center and then probe off the curved surfaces? I do that all too often, but it never seems ideal.
Question (not a critisism) Would it have been possible to dovetail the metal and do it in one setup using the 4th axis? Then cut off the dovetail of course.
We bought a SH-50 Mori made in 94 with a Fanuc 16 controller for 7k. It had a bad powermate. It took us a couple months to fix the old girl up. It has a 12k spindle and came with a bunch of tombstones. The girl runs all day 12 hours without a problem holding .0002 through the day. Load and go pretty much. I rather have the old iron than the new stuff. Better made with I can work on it if breaks.
Nice work. But if it was me. I would dovetail the part n jaws. Hog out the part with a 3/4 em at max speed n feed at least 250 . I agreed how u did the 1st op. But would make a fixture to bolt down the threaded holes n support the thin outer wall for second op. I hope this Offended u but dovetail is the way to go when roughing
