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Yes mate, definitely. Just be sure to check which way your adjuster has been set. The way I show it is opposite to some others. I found out that an apprentice tech had put the adjuster in the opposite to how it was from factory. Easy job and just be a bit patient. Would like to hear how you go!
@@4wdoffroadpassion yeah recently got the car, and the hand brake doesn’t even work at this point so it was a must fix, I’m only 16 so good to work on the car while I can’t drive it just yet
Hey mate, that’s awesome. Now here comes the fun stuff. Firstly, just be aware the rear body mounts can be difficult to get to if you have a rear drawer set installed and you will need to access the inner rear side panels. It’s been such a long time since we did this job and tbh can’t remember but I suspect all you’d need to do is just try and compare the bolts. As for the body mount spacers themselves, I think they may be part of a diff drop kit? Or possibly just different sizes. I’m sorry but unfortunately I just can’t remember.
The kit came with everything we needed. They had brackets for the radiator and an extension for the steering column. We used the radiator brackets to relocate and didn’t use the steering column extension as we were able to coax the existing clamp to suit the 1” body lift. I’d also be considering the front and rear bumpers as the don’t raise up with the car. The front bullbar we used some thick pinchweld and the rear was acceptable with the change in height. Hope this helps.
@@jordancawthorn3439 cheers mate, I try keep everything simple and real. Hopefully some of my workshop stuff helps others and thanks again for subscribing 👍🏾
This isn’t my person vehicle, it’s a mates I worked on. I believe he bought them online off eBay. They’re suited to the FJ cruiser, kit is 1” and comes with all accessories for the job. Just be mindful that you will need to lift the radiator, extend the steering column, the front and rear bumpers stay in place so there may be some fiddling to get them looking right.
This isn’t my person vehicle, it’s a mates I worked on. I believe he bought them online off eBay. They’re suited to the FJ cruiser, kit is 1” and comes with all accessories for the job. Just be mindful that you will need to lift the radiator, extend the steering column, the front and rear bumpers stay in place so there may be some fiddling to get them looking right.
No I didn’t need to with mine, I have fitted extended ball joints on my upper control arms and got a good wheel alignment done so there’s no body mount scrub.
@@jordanmccloy7586 I went with the extended upper ball joints instead of replacing the upper controls arms with aftermarket ones so I could still effectively get the same result and in turn get a proper wheel alignment with the correct geometry.
Hey mate, lift looks good. Any issues with running the strut top spacer aswell? Im thinking of going down the same setup. How thick a spacer did you end up going? Thanks.
Hey Michael, I haven’t got any issues with the 20mm spacer. It actually helps with the geometry and the droop, although if I need more adjustments I can wind up the coils as well. I’m super stoked with the way it is and performs well under all conditions I’ve put it through so far.
@@Deenio well off the bat I’ll say no not really but, best way to check if yours needs one is to check what the CV is doing on full droop and decide from there. If it’s fouling on things then consideration should be made. In my personal vehicle I’ve got a 3.5” lift and don’t run a diff drop.
The ARB bar was just way too bulky and heavy, it also reduced approach angles. Also it covers up and doesn’t compliment the facelift headlights. The AFN is a full bumper replacement and looks like a finished product not an afterthought. I too like Hustler lol.
Thanks. That helps. I back my wheels into the sea to reverse my boat trailer and I reckon its rusted on the disc on my 150. Can't get either rear ones off. I might try loosening up the manual adjustor.
Hey mate, about to install one in next couple days. Anything i should know? Looks like you may have welded something.? Going from a stock bumper to bullbar. Cheers
We welded a nut on the inside of the chassis rail to capture the bolt so we could retain the ARB recovery point. I don’t know of anyone else at the time that has had an ARB recovery point fitted with an AFN bar.
To be perfectly honest, there’s nothing tricky to removing the old ARB bar. The hardest part was removing the retaining screws for the ARB bash plates as they were quite well seized on and slightly rusted. Would also recommend a second or third set of hands to handle the weight of the bar when removing. Also noting to remove any spotlight wiring, winch wiring and uhf antenna wiring.
It’s a two inch lift with long travel shocks, adjustable rear panhard, adjustable rear trailing arms, adjustable upper trailing arms and drop out cone kit. It’s a mix of brands to make all the geometry work properly.
@@Tom-lf8hx here’s the video of the build mate, we went shorter springs than the ones we originally installed. It’s still a work in progress haha - ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-zRGCAv6bYFY.html
Out of curiosity why the bar swap? We just got a 2014 Kakadu that came with a colour matched ARB bar, and always curious why people choose the things they do. (Also I cannot swap it now, the misses loves the white bar on the white car lol)
It’s at least 20kg less in weight than the ARB and looks 100 times better with the contour fitting the tear drop headlights. Also helps with entry angles when offroad. It wasn’t a difficult decision.
Looks are in the eye of the beholder, but it does look nice. I can understand the weight and entry angle tho, the ARB is chunky as, we are only going to do light 4WD stuff (enough to get me to gold-laden rivers) so doubt I can justify the cost in changing it. This is the first 4WD so its an interesting rabbit hole to go down.
@@mohammadnuruzzamanshikder3217 well the bar is ADR compliant and believe me these bars are strong. Weight doesn’t always equate to strength when it’s designed properly. I’ve tested it and had the vehicle on its side resting on the bar with minimal distortion so I’d say 3t of car is more than a kangaroo.
For those complaining about the direction of the adjuster screw, it’s depends on which way the screw was installed as they can be used either way for fitment. In my case, it is exactly how it is and depending on who’s done the rear drum brake shoes yours may be different. The idea of this video is to show you how easy it is to make the adjustments. The upwards or downward motions are easily enough to detect in your vehicle to work out which way is tightening and which way is loosening.
Thanks for your feedback but on my vehicle it’s how I’ve shown. The adjuster screws are universal and depends on how and who installed the drum brake pads last on your vehicle.
5 - 7 clicks for optimal handbrake adjustment! Too tight and you will kill your handbrake shoes leading to an even more frustrating job to replace them.
Steve the information you've provided regarding rotating the adjustment cog or wheel upwards to backoff the brake shoes is incorrect (on a 120 Prado anyway). Adjustment cog or wheel turning upwards opens the brake shoe mechanism making the handbrake tighter - turning it downwards closes the shoes or backs off the adjustment.
Thanks for your feedback but on my vehicle it’s how I’ve shown. The adjuster screws are universal and depends on how and who installed the drum brake pads last on your vehicle.
Thanks for your feedback but on my vehicle it’s how I’ve shown. The adjuster screws are universal and depends on how and who installed the drum brake pads last on your vehicle.
Cost me $2,450 when I originally bought the bar from Mega Aussie Off-road. Only fitted it recently after having at in my shed for a year and a half haha. No other coat other than a few scraped knuckles 😎
Because the cam bolts were all seized mate. No other option other than to cut the seized lower control arms to access the seized bolts and cut them off.
@@4wdoffroadpassion Wow ok that's a bit hectic! How is the Outback Armour holding up? Can't seem to find much info out there, looking to put a 2" lift on our 150 as well. Is the adjustability as much as you expected? Have you re-measured after everything settled in? I've seen a few people say that their measurements are out by 20-30mm side to side?
mugget it’s a mates car but can say he’s pretty stoked with the outback armour and personally seeing the shocks and springs can vouch they’re a quality product.
Did this climb today after rain over the last 2 days. Parts of it were a waterfall! Very tough. Nice video, it never captures just how gnarly it is in real life!