Am getting mad at the used car I bought.. after driving it for a month,it slips to neutral when driving it.its a Toyota auris semi automatic 07. I changed the fluid and it was normal. After some days , it happened again. I will need to off and on the car before it will engage again in the middle of the road. Am Even scared to drive it now. I took it to the mechanic and he checked and said he can't find anything 😢 that I should keep on driving it and if it occurs again I should bring it. Can Lucas do d job?
I did the 2 cam shaft position sensors or what ever they are called, the intake and exhaust and I also pulled the intake and clean the PCV valve and I have to add oil every other week. I check it every Sunday and sometimes it's low like 1/4 or 1/2 QT, but it is EVERY time. We need to find a good fox for this. So thanks for sharing this video. So you drilled a hole above the PCV valve so you can clean it when ever you want without having to take the entire intake manifold off right? Do you have a video on that process? Of drilling out the hole and setting the screw?? So you can remove the coil pack and plug and drop the B-12 Chem-tool directly down there??
If my fuel pump is priming, with the key in the on position, could the relay still be the issue? I just changed my fuel pump and it ran fine for a few days but now I have a crank but no start. Fuel pump is priming like normal but no fuel comes out of the line when disconnected from the fuel rail.
Hi nice video can i know you cut the wires or split from harness? Also you remove fuse of fuel pump in tipm permanently ? Its same wires on 2015 ram 1500 ecodiesel?
You sound like you would wait until the frame had rotted into 3 or 4 pieces and then spritz it with Rust Check on the way to the junk yard just so you could say "I told you so!"
How often do you expect to clean this hole? This orifice cleaning probably only needs to be done infrequently under most conditions, maybe just alternate oil changes, as long as it really gets done. I’d skip the JB weld. It’ll work ok on cleaned roughened surfaces, but is unnecessary here IMHO. Drill & self tap a tight #10 stainless screw right in there with locktite, and if it ever strips the plastic from R&R-ing, tap in the next size. OR if you eventually must re-tap too big, then result to JB weld as necessary. Just get really clean, roughened surfaces.
May 11 6:00 am I can clearly hear you say 86 is sliced to brown wire but in the video it looks like it’s just connected to brown wire that goes to black connector in fuse box. I don’t see 2 brown wires in the splice Please help
May 11 6:00 am Looking @ video Is the brown wire spliced to 86 or just connected to brown wire that goes to black connector in fuse box I don’t see two brown wires in the splice Please help
9:15 am May 10 Would this apply to 2015 ram 1500 as far as the colour of wiring goes My fuse box looks exactly the same as yours & the fuel pump fuse is in the same location
I wish you had shown how you put the bolts back. That is a lot of money to spend for one bolt. I was not taking it to a shop though. My battery is charging. My Harbor Freight was out of the single battery, battery chargers. No other Harbor freights close enough to spend the time and gas to go travel where there was a store that had one in stock. I hope they aren't selling these out for another line of tools and ending this line of tools. Something I have seen them do before.
Putting a 3 or 4 ft tall, upside down T made of 4x4's or even just an old tire on a wheel under that chain/rope will allow the pulling force to lift the tree/brush upward instead of horizontally across the root system. Anything with a well developed tap root can put up a good fight either way.
The whole car is a cheap design flaw. No low oil indicator, no PCV valve, timing chain issues, soft metal rings that wear out in 40K. 2011 equinox worst car I have ever owned.
This is a creative and useful video. I live in FL have a 2017 I bought new but now has 100K plus. I noticed some oil consumption issues and this issue sparked my interest in maintaining the car myself because I need it to last. My intake was full of oil, plugs had oil on them etc. While I cleaned the intake, your video showed me that I need to take the time to “vac out” the bottom of the manifold and more importantly you came up with a plan to be able to prevent the problem repeating, which I am very appreciative of.
chevy announced a bs quick substitute fix… they suggest you buy an oil cap with a pressure relief valve in it to save the rear seal from blowing out. I bought it.. but my oil always smells of heavy gas and its always black. gonna have to do this trick for longevity purposes. and my oil filter is always caved in on itself.
We tow a 29ft travel trailer that comes in loaded about 6700, plus our stuff in the truck [with topper] so besides our 7540lb 2014 ram 2500...6.4 gas [full] ,camper, and stuff, about 15,000 total?..In regular mode, I seem to get about 8.5...now thats NOT in mountains and not alot of headwind and at 62-65 mph...in tow haul mode it seems to take me down to 7 to 7.5...but I sure feel better about that trans! Never see the trans run too hot though. As you know, it's cool that sometimes if nice and flat and no wind it might go into 4cyl mode once in awhile in reg mode! thanks for the Video!
Thank you for this awesome video! I have a 2016 Equinox LTZ 2WD with a 2.4L. I live in Florida never have to worry about frozen PVC valve condensation. I have no oil consumption issues and it has 155,000. In my research it seems to be the soot build up from the low octane ethanol fuel that is causing oil to become dirty and contaminated. The piston rings will prematurely fail from bad oil and the timing chain tensioner is hydraulic and requires good clean oil pressure to function properly. I am still researching but if you live where it gets below freezing you're going to have PVC valve issues which will prematurely dirty your oil and back pressure could blow a rear seal. The fix is run higher octane fuel less ethanol, change oil every 3,000-,5,000 miles and if you live in freezing weather consider performing this PVC orifice access mod. Real quick if your 2.4L ever starts and immediately stalls after 2-5 seconds with no check engine light or fault code then disconnect your MAF sensor forward of the throttle body and see if the car starts and runs then. This happened to my Equinox and kicked my ass because there was no codes. I replaced the fuel pump and both valve advance solenoids and it still stalled. Then I found the MAF sensor bad. Keep the commandments coming, that's how the community learns.
What benefit does having the short chain bolted in 2 spots provide? Couldn’t you just use the single bolt near the pipe opening that goes against the tree?
This set up works well. After making one and using it with a tractor that USED to have a cab with glass on it, DON'T DO IT! Unless of course you rig up a way to protect you, the tractor and the cab on it by erecting heavy chicken wire or screening to stop the chain from flying into you when it snaps or the tree breaks off. Notice I didn't say if? It happened to me after 3 hours and I was just about done for the day. While it didn't hit me, it did smash out the large rear glass panel on my new Kubota. It would have been cheaper to hire a few guys and pay them to dig the trees and brush out with shovels, Lol This works well but always think ahead and protect yourself from the worst possible outcomes. My wife grounded me and took my allowance for 2 months when she saw the bill to fix it! She called me an idiot! (Can you believe it?) She was really mean and doesn't play right! (I had to call my mom even!) That wasn't very nice and I told her so!
It helps to attach a heavy towel, blanket or car mat to and over the chain or rope so in case (when) it breaks, it will reduce the flight path and height.
