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Hey everyone! I wanted to let you know that I've added affiliate links to the descriptions of my videos. This means that if you click on these links and make a purchase, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you. It's a great way to support the channel and helps me to continue creating content you enjoy. Thank you so much for your support! If you have any questions, feel free to ask. Happy watching! 🎥✨
Where you at location wise where it’s 103 degrees F, you get “a lot of snow” and code only requires 36” deep footers. Here in Michigan we are 42” deep footers
I’m in the Northern Utah area. We typically get a lot of snow due to the mountains, but that week I recorded this we had a weird heat wave. We usually only get a handful of days in triple digits. My city provided me the depth requirement for the footer.
you did good on this except your stinger material you should not have less than 5.5 inches of material remaining on teh heal edge if you have less than that it is always recommended to put a 2x6 runner on them to add extra support ..But I suggest using and most building codes require 2x12 for your stingers .. on your stingers you should add on the inside a 2x6 runner to add more support .. other than that you did pretty good and you can go with the material you used every 16 inches and any thing that contacts Concrete should always be Treated lumber
well MR DIY first code violation using common deck screws on the hanger number 2 code violation you did not have any connector plates connecting the post to the beam even though you notched it you are required to use steel connector plates and where you have a joint on the beam you are supposed to lap the beam the beam sol act as a whole or a solid beam and not be in 2 pieces. its not called a header joist its called a rim joist and a proper way to do it is single ply 2x material with a Facia Board that would stager the joints and does not require hangers and should be face screwed or nailed ..
Yeah, I took some bad advice from the crew at the lumber yard on the screws. I was also told that I didn’t require the connector plate because I lag bolted the beam to post. If I’m wrong on this, I apologize. But thank you for the feedback. I am always looking to learn.
Why place decking over concrete and not just extend deck beyond concrete? More seamless, but that concrete isn’t going anywhere versus deck which has a finite lifetime.
instead of moving the joist and making shorter blocking, could you have just added another joist where you needed it? Also, why did you chose not to use some flashing tape on your beams for more water protection. Great videos
I have a small home and need a compact stair case that allows us to go up stairs. Our current stairs are super narrow and has broken treads all the way up. I want to change it to a wider set of stairs with a smaller footprint. Thoughts?
Awesome bro!!! As bizzy as you are w your baby’s room you still took the time to video how you made her wooden name aaand… I’m greatful that you did Sir!!! I will do as you did w the way you jigsawed and and painted the name I’m excited to go buy a jigsaw 2mrw Bro!!! Two questions: 1. What type of wood should I buy so I can put stain on it and 2. What type of shiny wood stuff would you suggest use Sir??? Thanks a mil for this tutorial!!.
If Im understanding your question correctly, I took the upper cabinets off the wall, put a hole in the drywall where the bottom and top of the cabinet would be, and then fished the wire behind the drywall.
Nice video, it's tough to find projects that are hard-wired to the house and not just plugged in. I do have two questions: 1) Why use a transformer rather than an adapter? I don't really understand this piece of installing LEDs, aside from "don't let LEDs use direct wall power" 2) What tool did you use to drill a hole into the aluminum channels?
If Im thinking of the adapter you are thinking of then the adapter and transformer do the same job. The difference is the transformer would be hard wired in, and is made to be mounted or hiden. With the adapter you would essentially have to plug it in. The reason you dont want to plug LED right into a wall is becuase your home is wired for AC (Alternating Current) whereas LEDs use DC (Direct Current). The tool that used to drill the hole is just a basic drill bit. Since they are aluminum, they are pretty easy to drill through.
I didnt do a great job explaining why extending it wouldnt work, but the key wasnt long enough. If I used a flange to extend it, the key wouldnt be long enough to reach the valve.
Good video but the music was awful. Especially when its the same song for all of your videos. mmmm mmmmm mmmmm mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmm Louder quieter louder quieter mmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmm mmmmmmmmmmm
Originally we spent about $200, but then my wife changed her mind on the tile and drove it closer to $300. The tile was deffinitly the most expensive part of this project.
Yes. Most transforms have dimming capabilities, and should have it listed as dimmable. The manufacturer of the transformer will usually have a list of specific dimmer brands.
so when that sono tube breaks down youll have a gap around your tube. usually builders only use the tube at ground level and below ground level is just the hole for the concrete.
My local building inspectors will not accept that practice. We have aggressive freeze and thaw cycles in the spring and fall. The rough walls of the concrete without a tube would allow more ratcheting of the footer. At least that’s the rationale of my local inspectors.
