This is a first generation Tibloc, and the manual apparently says NOT to put the rope through the carabiner. The newer (second) generation model's manual apparently says either method will work. If someone has a link to the manuals saying otherwise please post it for everyone's benefit.
Why don't you use a carabiner with a twistgate if you're trying to prevent it from unwanted opening.....at least that way you wouldn't lose either the carabiner or the sling that's fastened to it (remember that you're relying on these things to save you from a potentially fatal fall IF you fall & the quickdraw comes loose from the rock face)
The only benefit with a snarg compare to an ice screw must be the price. I dont know how it is in other countries but here in Sweden you can still buy them. And you can get them for about 25-30% of the price of a modern screw.
How are you going to lift the rope up in the very beginning without it running away theough the figure 8? Your first step would let off the brake and that rope would start sliding fast
Used this as safety climbing half dome cables~~>lovy.biz/kk66?お Never fell, so never really needed it, but good quality sling and I will use it in many other adventures.
*Seems like a well made pulley➣>**allmy.tips/FusionPulley?ss✱ ** Going to use it to guide an extension cord from my shed to my house to start my snow blower.*
Petzl instructions show either configuration as acceptable for the second generation tibloc. I don't have instructions for the first gen device however. If a carabiner is being used as a pulley however, using with a tibloc for progress capture, the rope must pass through the carabiner.
Thank you! This would be same method used to lock off munter hitch, with Swiss rappel seat. I went off that 60 foot tower, Marine Recruit Depot myself 40 years ago. Some Marines make the case for abortion apparently?
exsactly my thoughts, pure logic states that crab has to be cliped around the rope, but quite a lot of ilustrations show same setup as in this video......i have used it only cupple times and only cliped trough the hole but in a way to capture the rope as well(same way person would clip crab trough top hole of asender)
I didn't like that placement. It looked like it was the wrong size, too small. The pivot point, lower right, didn't have much to bite into. That's the part that is going to move in a hard downward fall. It could just be my viewpoint doesn't allow me to see it clearly. But that was my impression. Love tri-cams though. Very underrated, but very useful.
That piece appears to be a bit big for that crack. While it appears solid, I feel we could do better. The tricam in the video is sitting flat, and there is no camming action going on. One size smaller, and the fulcrum point would be able to dig in much better (better camming) and be less likely to slide straight out during a fall
Absolutely right, Jack. I immediately saw the same thing. This is NOT how to place a tri cam. Go with the next smaller size so that it does in fact create a camming action. If you took a hard leader fall on the one placed in this video, I'd give it more than 50% odd that it would pull out because it is not camping at all - it is only acting as a wedge, and a not very good one at that.
Good video! I'm trying to pick up more micro-skills like this. Things like tying knots easily one-handed, holding cams in your teeth, etc. Things that don't much to do with climbing directly, but that help while doing it. Does your book have more stuff like this, or is it mostly on your youtube channel?
Could you use it as an adjustable tether as part of a PAS for sports climing? One end of tether tied to harness, other end with stopper knot. When reach top of climb, clip carabiner/tibloc to anchor eye bolt and pull out slack.
