Belaying with a deadman in hard snow. In hard snow, a deadman can be placed at a shorter depth. You can pound it into the snow with your ice axe. It is important to create groove for the steel wire n such a way that pulling on the wire under any loading might not pull the anchor surface against the layer of snow. Hard snow is understood to mean the kind into which crampons can dig but not shoes. In such snow a well placed deadman holds firm. (Video from e-book Mountaineering Methodology, www.mountaineeringmethodology.com)
11 май 2014
