Hey man! Well, this is just a model engine. It also has no active lubrication system. The oil comes via the fuel as with a 2-stroke engine. So far I havn't noticed any relevant wear on the rotary valve. The perfect choice would be a hard chrome-plated rotary valve made out of brass and a sleeve made out of cast iron. With this combination, long-term performance is also very likely to be good. An active seal as a counter piston is recommended. Check out this channel www.youtube.com/@MrPizzaman09 He build in BMW straight six engine a rotary valve head in it. He has an open rotary valve with counter piston and an active lubrication system with drip oiling on each rotary valve.

Hallo Olli 👋 Geil! Merlin V12 sind mega und in einer P-51 machen die sich perfekt 👍 - Aufmass mache ich immer 0.5 - 1.0mm. - Alle Kontaktflächen muss du nachbearbeiten. Die Oberfläche selbst ist sehr rau und du musst mit ra = 30µm rechnen. Flächen die keine Funktion haben, kannst du roh lassen. - Kernlöcher für Gewinde solltest du nicht drucken, sondern bohren. Einerseits sind Sacklöcher im SLM Druck heikel die Genauigkeit reicht für solch kleiner Löcher nicht aus. Selbst bei grösseren Löchern hatte ich Aufmass drauf und die nachbearbeitet. - Wandstärken sollten min 1.0mm sein. Unter 2mm sollte man vermeiden. Flächige, dünne Stellen solltest du vermeiden, weil sich die gedruckten Teile an diesen Stellen dann stark verziehen oder gar Wölben wegen den Eigenspannungen. - Konstruiere die Teile in Leichtbauweise mit Verstrebungen um die Formhaltung von dünnen, flächigen Stellen deutlich zu erhöhen. - Die gedruckten Teile aus AlSi10Mg selbst haben eine sehr hohe Festigkeit Rp0.2 um 250MPa und sind lunkerfrei und öldicht. Das gedruckte Teil unterscheidet sich nicht in der Dichte und Homogenität zu regulärem Material. Es ist also am Ende, als hättest du es aus einem Klotz gefräst. - Wichtig ist, dass du ein Teil nicht einfach drucken kannst und dann ist es fertig. Wenn du ein gutes Teil willst, muss es nach dem Druck wärmebehandelt werden weil es viele Eigenspannungen hat. Zusätzlich lohnt sich es das Teil mikrozustrahlen, um die Oberfläche zu verdichten und zu glätten. Ich habe viel geschrieben. Aber Frage, wenn du was wissen willst. Viele Grüsse aus der Schweiz! Daniel

I primarily build V8s, look here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8DCZT216YVY.html

@@danielhunziker3577 😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱😱🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌🙌

Hi Davide 👋 Thanks man! More power would certainly have been possible. But when it's broken, there's not much I can do. To be honest, the engine was at its limit. Optimized to death 😅At the moment, I'm not going to repair it. I have very little motivation to do so. And when I would make a custom made cylinder head for the next tuning stage. My current project is the 49ccm VR5 engine. I've been making all the parts for it for the last few months and it's 90% finished. As there was very little interest in the last video, I didn't make any videos for it so far. This is my most technically advanced engine to date. Hope that this will be running soon. As a VR motor, it's probably also unique in model making. I only do exotics 😎

😊 really looking forward to see the latest creation VR 5!! And to be honest I'm very curious to know how the performance of the single cylinder you did last time with the better flow head, have improve. Are you planning to do a Dyno of that engine? Thank you

​@@davidemantovi6678 Mmm... shall I spoiler 🤔 I have already measured the performance of the 1 cylinder with the new cylinderhead with one valve. Result is... 🙃 The VR5 became a beauty! But as I said, there was very little interest in it.

​@@danielhunziker3577well I can speak for myself I'm very interested! Thank you for your time in sharing your projects!!! Looking forward to the next video 😊

@@davidemantovi6678 Here you can take a first look at the VR5 and how my friend made the milled parts: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-i2vyJBSlwoA.html&lc=UgzVl95LkkIjiatlRgJ4AaABAg.A8rYHaLcZDzA8rZJJ1CTp1

A cross flow head would be pretty good

Hi man! I think you mean Nolan Farmer? www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=108273 At the moment I'm not planning to do a Stage 6 with new cylinder head. But when, I would build a new head, than 3D printed and CAD gas flow optimized without right-angled bends (more like a tube with roundings). But as I said, I'm currently working on other projects.

Hi John 👋 But over 1 hp!!! 😁💥😁💥😁

Hi russcole5684 👋 I think you're right. Due to the larger piston and longer connecting rod, it vibrates more at higher revs than original (counterweight on crankshaft is now too light). Probably in combination with the larger intake manifold and carburetor, it came to a fatigue breakage. I would probably have had to support it with an additional retaining plate. But now it is what it is... broken...

@@danielhunziker3577 I own and run a couple of the Yamada YS engines. A .91 and a 1.20. Amazing power for their size. I wonder if you're able to make a new head, or replace with a original one with your porting, and try using the crankcase induction like the YS engines do to "super charge" the system. Just a thought. I'm sure you've more knowledge to make it work than what I'm able to do

@@russcole5685 To be honest, I'm not familiar with Yamada's housing charging.I own a DZ140 Dingo NiB, but I haven't looked at it in detail yet (it was a bargain purchase). Webra did the same with its T4-91 MK1. It is certainly worth trying to measure the effect of the housing charge from Yamada once in future.

@@danielhunziker3577 I have not measured pressure as on running engine. They do pressurized the fuel tank while running. I tested tank before install for stretch and swelling with air compressor regulated too 15psi.(1Bar). I'd guess while running it's pressurizing the tank to 7psi or abouts. Guessing from amount of swell. I'd also guess that the engine would run at 1Bar boost due to it sucking in fuel/air mix once per rotation, and induction once every second rotation. Crank case swept volume is the same as piston swept volume, therefore the charge is in theory twice atmosphere. My guessing is very simplistic, have yet to test to practice

@@generico896 m.ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8DCZT216YVY.html

What would you like to tell us?

Hallo nskekbe 👋 Das ist unterschiedlich und hängt auch stark vom Zustand ab. Einen funktionsfähigen Schillings V8 bekommst du ab 2'500 Euro. Sammlerstücke in einem sehr guten Zustand können aber bis 5'000 Euro gehen.

Thanks Brian! It's not always easy to produce good quality parts in my hobby workshop. But I do my best. What's stopping you from trying something yourself? As you say have enough background 😃

Pretty much $. I've been slowly investing in things that I can do awesome stuff with 3D printers, gas welding equipment and such. Got quite a ways to go before I have a shop outfitted with what I want/need to have. If you're interested I've started with working on a 3D printing solution to print metal for low cost. The process will use high percentage metal powder/polymer binder pellets that are then extruded in the FFF process. The part will then be "de-binded" binder material vaporized and then the part gets heated to sintering temperature. The process should yield end use spec or near spec parts and one of the nice things is this process is cheaply and easily scalable. I.E. I could print a full size engine block or other parts and the range of materials is almost limitless. If you're interested in helping support my effort a little let me know maybe we could do a little collaborative work. If not that's ok too. I'm going to keep working at getting set up nicely one way or another.

Hi Cheri! My design is scalable and it's theoretically possible to build all types of engines. My V8 is a very good example of this. You can also build a V10 or V12 using the same principle. Yes, with my timing I get over 20'000 rpm. But just keep in mind that this is only a model engine. Made as simpel as possible. A youtube friend of mine has already done something similar you would like to do. Watch here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yFXmGqBKNEc.html I think with enough oil in the fuel a seperate oiling maybe isn't necessary. If you are thinking of such a project, you should first work on a 1-cylinder test engine with which you can experiment. Would love to see some videos of you working on the project sometime in the future!

Thanks George! Do my best to machine only quality parts ☺ As far as this is possible in my nooby workshop 😅

Hi man! This is just a model engine. It's designed to be as simple as possible and adapted to my possibilities and abilities. I think a ceramic rotary valve is beyond my skills 😅

Ceramic doesn't work well for reciprocating/piston engines. The surfaces exposed to combustion retain heat. Eventually, the heat retention causes pre-detonation during the compression stroke.

@danielhunziker3577 - to be fair, he has a point about ceramic for just the valve... and while it may be "beyond your skills", there are services available. Assuming you're in/near Germany, there are a couple technical ceramic manufacturers close to you. They can take your existing valve, 3D scan it, and reproduce it in ceramic zirconia. It's not cheap (€2000 +/- for your valve)... but it may be worth looking into, after you've optimized the dimensions.

@@JamesCopeland-i1j Isn't the right question: Why should I do this? Ceramic has its justification and would certainly be an improvement. But 2'000€ is crazy just for a simpel model engine! As I said many times, it's just a model engine and a experiment. This is a hobby and I am proud that I build everything that is possible myself. Otherwise I would just buy pistons, piston rings, etc. I could also just buy pistons, piston rings, cylinder liners, etc., but that wouldn't be the spirit of model making as I love it.

@danielhunziker3577 - I understand COMPLETELY. I was simply saying, if it would a consideration for you in the future, there are sources available.

Thanks man! Keep in mind this one here is only a model engine.I don't think you'll reach the moon with it 😅

Hi man! Yes, the V8 of mine with rotary valve has a fantastic sound 😁 It revs so nice! Just as it's possible to build a 1-cylinder engine, it's also possible to build a radial engine. One rotary valve per cylinder and a revolving toothed belt. On a double row radial engine, the cylinder spacing should be big enough to allow a timing belt to run between the rows. That is feasible and it would be a super exotic engine 😅

@@danielhunziker3577 One of the big limitations to radials, was the gas flow and complexity of the valve timing. For an RC model, a belt running around the outside circumfrence of the cylinders would do it, to a gear drive to the bank behind. Rotatry Valve doesn't scale up as well, but in small models, it reduces the parts count and up's the reliability.

Hi Quiddyquid! The sound is indeed different to a poppet valve 4 stroke. But it could also simply be due to the high speed. That is correct. I run my rotary valve engines always rich to keep the rotary valve always lubricated as good as possible (the engine doesn't have an active oil system). It's generally recommended to run model engines rather rich to keep them well lubricated.

Hi man! What specific details are you missing?

Dude, I don't think that will ever happen 😅

@@danielhunziker3577 get you some some registered patterns before it’s too late

Hi Davide 😃 Fun Fact: I really do work in the Swiss Watch industry😅 It was important to me not to change the original design. So everything is the same as on my 1 cylinder test engine: Compression ratio, shape of the combustion chamber , timing, number of glow plugs, etc. To answer your question: I didn't thought about it with this engine as the aim was to compare the two types of roller control directly with each other. So just change the type of rotary valve and leave the rest as it is. But I know that many things in model engines aren't that important as with real engines.

@@danielhunziker3577 it's for sure the fastest Swiss watch in the history 😂 really looking forward to the next update!! Thank you Daniel, have a great day 😊

Hallo Guerrino 😃 Danke, ich bastle gerne an Modellmotoren rum. Ich wünschte selbst dass diese noch erhältlich sind. Ich hatte per Zufall mal die Möglichkeit 10 Stk. zu kaufen. Aber leider gibt es die heute nicht mehr zu kaufen. Vergaser wurden rar und auch ich suche immer wieder nach geeigneten Vergaser. Auf Ebay und lokalen Börsen findet man immer wieder was. Das beste Preis - Leistungsverhältnis hast du aber klar an Modellbaumessen in den Krabelkisten. Da habe ich schon viele her bekommen. Ich weiss, die Antwort ist unbefriedigend 😕

What are you trying to say? It's normal with a 4-stroke engine and especially with a 2-stroke engine that some of the fresh mixture enters the exhaust unburned.

Hallo Herman 😃 ich vermute deine bevorzugte Sprache ist Deutsch (wenn nicht, gib mir Bescheid und ich schreibe wieder in Englisch). Das klingt sehr interessant! ich habe nur bei MrPizzaman09 einen funktionierende Walzendreh-Mod gesehen. Hast du geplant ein Video zu machen von Bau und dem Testen! Das wäre mega ☺ Grüsse aus der Schweiz!

Hi Josh 😃 You mean like some kind of fine and main timing ports like on high performance 2 stroke? What I can already say is that I probably have to separate the inlet and outlet ducts from each other. There is interference. A 1-valve engine generally does not seem to be optimal. But that's exactly what this RU-vid channel is for. With practical attempts to find out such things 😊

Hi man! I have heard that a supercharger on the crankshaft can theoretically convert a 4-stroke into a 2-stroke with valves. But I haven't personally tried this yet nor do I have any plans to do so.

Hi Rafaell 🙂 The sealing problem is one of the main reasons why rotary valves haven't become established. It's really difficult to design a suitable system. There were once approaches for Formula 1 engines (Bishop and Guy Negre), as longevity isn't that important fort these kind of engines. In the end, it led to the FIA banning rotary valve. It's important to note that this engine here is a model engine and the seal is made via the oil in the fuel. As soon as the engine is running, you have a dynamic sealing of the rotary valve here. Just please don't equate this with a real engine. Because the system wouldn't work or, as you say, would have to be extensively redesigned to get work

@@danielhunziker3577 If it were easy it would have been done a long time ago. If I may make a suggestion... I would consider using two shafts, one for intake and one for exhaust. This does two important things. First, it would avoid having to seal between the intake and exhaust ports on the shaft as they are separate assemblies. Second, you avoid thermal transfer into the fresh charge of air from the exhaust heating up the valve itself. The only thing you would have to do then is ensure adequate sealing circumferentially on each shaft. This can be accomplished using lip seals like those found on a hydraulic pistons except they would be made of stainless steel sheet folded such that under pressure (compression) they would be pressed against a flat surface found on either the rotary valve shaft or the housing body itself. That flat sealing surface can be made of silicon nitride rings that have superb anti-galling properties against sliding steel and high temperature resistance. Throw in a finely metered oil hole to lubricate and cool and you would have something that would work on a 4 stroke cycle. You can make the seals stiff enough so they seal well under minor pressure differences like that found during the intake stroke (vacuum) to then flex and seal under pressure during combustion/power stroke. Food for thought.

@@danielhunziker3577 Looks like my original response has been removed for some reason. I will try again with this post. If it were easy everybody would be doing it right? Consider using two rotary valves, one for intake and the other exhaust. This way heating of the intake charge is avoided but more importantly you get rid of the need to seal between both ports. This leaves only circumferential sealing. For this consider a metallic (stainless steel) lip seal on both sides of each shaft that under pressure would press against a flat surface made of silicon nitride which has excellent galling resistance with steel not to mention thermal resistance. Throw in a finely metered oil hole fed between the metal seal and the silicon nitride for cooling and lubrication draining back to tank (a few drops would be required) and you may have something. Food for thought.

Hi Rafaell 😃 I have not actively removed any comments. By default, a filter is activated for comments on RU-vid. You may have used a word in the original comment that RU-vid considered as "nope" 😅 I agree with you. An active, lubricated seal would of course be great! I would like to take this opportunity to point out once again that this is just a model engine. Compared to real engines, it can be described as technically primitive. But that's also the point of it. As a model builder, you have limited and simple machines/tools, just as I do. The design is always chosen so that it's easy to manufacture with the available resources. Have you ever looked at the dimensions of such model engines? It's all so super small and I'm happy if I can even get the small things in the required tolerances to make it work 😅 As a hobby builder, it's often a pain 🙈Yeah, you're right! But as I said, model builduing is to keep things simpel and producable 🤷‍♂

@@danielhunziker3577 Fantastic. I look forward to more of your content Daniel. Cheers.

Get over it.

Hi man 😃 Too bad. What was the reason why you haven't made a test engine to see how it works?

Hi Patrick 😃 You're right! This is a problem with rotary valve, the exhaust gas and the fresh air are routed through the same rotating part. Two completely separate systems would certainly make more sense. I thought about a dual rotary valve for this reason. There is always room for improvement! I like to experiment 😊

@@danielhunziker3577 instead of having the gases flow through the barrel valve could you route it as a cord? aka have a flat or concave surface on one side that functions for both intake and exhaust? this would allow the intake and exhaust to be back down on the side and lower the engine center of gravity and profile. could also use the larger pulley as a fan to help keep it cool. lol

@@Patricks_Projects cold air is what is desired.

Thanks man!

Ho obbyjep 🙂 In past I was a little bit naive and did 0°/0°/0°/0°/0° timing. I thought that didn't matter with small engines. They run well at idle! But as soon as you give them some revs, they struggle a lot. It's not possible to achieve a reasonable performance this way. I tried different timings with my first test engine. Even 30°/30°/30°/30° is nowhere near enough. In my case with 6.5ccm and rotary valve you only get 0.30 hp out of the engine. Only with the timing mentioned in the video will you get a good performance with 0.60 hp (ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-TMYDdoHDgFs.html). So the answer is yes, the timing in model engines has a significant impact on the performance.

@@danielhunziker3577 very interesting, I haven't heard much talk about valve or cam timing on small engines, if heard a few run and it seems some rev and sound more willing to rev a lot better than others, wonder if that explains some

Hi obyjep 😃 Do you know Toyan, Cison, etc. with their Chinese model engines? Visually, they look impressive! But they have a 0°/0°/0°/0° timing. That's why they run great at idle speed, but as soon as you want to rev them, it's over. That's why the power specs they give are a joke and far, far above what they really deliver. I once planned to measure one on my dyno. But I didn't do that because it doesn't help anyone if I make them look bad due bad performance. I have perform many tests on timings and always measured the effect on the dyno. Model engines need a aggressive timing to achieve good performance at speeds up to 20'000 rpm.

@@danielhunziker3577 that is my thoughts to on those ones. Be neat for someone like yourself to modify or remake a cam in one of these, dyno it and all. From working on larger engines it makes a lot of sense that with the speeds and small volumes of air it would need more not less time to get air moving and could really take advantage of the fast moving little weights of air

I'm ashamed to say this here, but I once bought a 2 cylinder Toyan (I know: Shame oin me!). The problem is that the timing is just the peak of the iceberg. I couldn't assemble the engine and had to rework several parts first. One colleague hat the staright 4 and one piston was so different in height tha hit the cylinderhead. Unfortunately, they have so many quality and design problems. I have no plans to improve such engines piece by piece as a project. I also don't want to put anyone down. To be honest: They really look good in a showcase! But I'm currently working on an engine with poppet valves with reasonable timing. It's a VR5 with 49ccm (I designed this one at the beginning of this year: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-M395RN96gsY.html). This one will run perfect, I hope... 😅

Imagine me squawking around like a rooster, that wouldn't be nice for you guys to hear 😅 No, seriously: An Ai voice is better than reading text (like in my older video) and a good compromise to avoid having to record something yourself, which I don't won't. Thanks man! I'm happy you like it. I do my best to share my work as good I can.

@@danielhunziker3577 haha fair enough

No, I can't avoid that. As is usual with a model engine, the oil is burned. A lot of smoke for nothing, so to speak 😅

Hey Argentum 😃 Ich baue gerne Exoten und Versuchsmotoren. Auch der hier ist ein reiner Versuchsmotor. Interessanterweise ist der Ventilquerschnitt genau gleich wie beim anderen Motor. Hier ist er einfach rechteckig und beim anderen quadratisch. Ich vermute, dass dieser hier weniger Leistung haben wird aufgrund der 1 Ventiltechnik. Es wird den Gasfluss und die Zylinderfüllung negativ beeinflussen, dies weil hier im Vergleich zu getrennten Ventilen ein Strömungswechsel stattfinden muss. Die Steuerzeiten sind für einen Modellmotor nicht besonderes. Meine Steuerzeiten stammen aus einem Fachbuch "Rennwagentechnik von Michael Trzesniowski". Aus diesem Buch habe ich viel gelernt über Motoren. Klar, meine Modellmotoren sind nur eine Spielerei und haben nicht viel mit einem echten Motor zu tun.

@danielhunziker3577 Das Buch habe ich übrigens auch. Ein Modellmotor 4T mit mehr als 320 Grad kenne ich nicht allerdings drehen die auch icht so hoch wie deiner. Bei Autos spricht man manchmal auch von 336 Grad Wellen. Man sagt die nehmen dann unter 5000 1/min. kaum Gas an. Du kannst ja mal ausprobieren wie weit du mit den Steuerzeiten gehen kannst.

Hi Argentum 😃 Cool mit dir zu diskutieren! Bei anderen Kommentaren gewisser Leute ist das eher nicht so... Ich mag dieses Buch sehr, da es dich nicht mit Theorie voll ballert. Besonders die vielen Beispiele und Bilder aus der Praxis sind echt mega! Ich habe mir ein Excel gemacht mit allen Eckpunkten von vielen Modellmotoren. Betreffend Timing ist da Enya mit den 4C Motoren der Spitzenreiten. Die sind in der Region von Timing wie ich. Die drehen aber eben auch bis fast 20'000 U/min. Kennst du noch den Vorgänger 1 Zylinder Versuchsmotor von mir, den roten? in der 1.Ausbaustufe hatte der ein Timing von 30°/30°/30°/30°. Der kam so gerade mal auf 0.32 PS. Mit dem jetzigen Timing holst du 0.63 PS raus. Aber wie du richtig sagst, unter 3'000 U/min laufen meine auch nicht mehr richtig. Sie laufen noch gerade so für ein sauberes Standgas. Für ein Modellmotor ja schnuppe. Es ist tatsächlich auf meiner ToDo Liste, bei 1 Zylinder mal das Timing weiter zu erhöhen gemäss Liste Trzesniowski. Das wäre insbesondere spannend, weil bei einem Walzendreher so der Ventilquerschnitt auch grösser wird (du machst ja mit der Breite und Position das Timing).

@danielhunziker3577 Excel ist für so was natürlich gut geeignet. Interessant ist noch der YT-Channel von Garage 4AGE. Dieser holt mit bescheidenen Mitteln relativ viel Leistung aus relativ alten und kleinen Toyota Saugmotoren raus. Er macht viele Experimente mit Steuerzeiten, Einlasstrichtern und Auspuffanlagen. Auch wenn es keine Drehschiebermotoren sind sind die Ergebnisse lehrreich. Die 40er Webramotoren haben soviel ich weiss nur 260 Grad, im Vergleich zu den konventionellen Motoren eigentlich recht wenig. Bein Drehschieber darfder Kanal natürlich nicht zu breit werden, denn wird der Kanal zu breit aber zu wenig hoch, ist dies nicht so gut für die Strömung. Hast du mal gemessen wieviel die Doppelzünung bringt bei hohen Drehzahlen bringt? Bei so einer kleinen Bohrung vermute ich, dass es nicht sehr viel bringt?

tare 60 Kommentar hinzufügen… @barriegregory6606 vor 2 Tagen Rotary valves have been tried many times in the last 100 yrs & it doesn't work, they overheat & open & close too slowly, poppet valves will work for 500, 000 miles untouched, what is he trying to prove? 4 5 @argentumflower592 vor 2 Tagen Apparently you never listened/read what he said. He knows the problems of such engines. It is not a car engine but a model engine that is lubricated with a lot of oil. Do you do 500,000 km with a model engine? 3 @johnpearson492 vor 1 Tag @barriegregory6606 As with all of us building rotary valves, it is for the fun of it. I've built many including one for an inline 6 BMW. Yes it has problems but it was and still is a fun project. 2 @danielhunziker3577 vor 1 Tag Hi Gregory 😃 I love your comment! Giving critical feedback on a project and giving reasons for it's a good technical feedback. I can only agree. With real engines, there are probably many disadvantages with rotary valve that outweigh the advantages. But don't forget, this isn't a real engine, it's just a simple model engine. I can live out with these projects my inventive spirit and can simply have fun. I'm happy when people follow my projects and also find them technically interesting. Isn't that a good thing? From my point of view, this is worthwhile 😊😊😊 Mehr anzeigen 1 @VSS63 vor 21 Stunden ​ @danielhunziker3577 great answer, and the most important thing with projects like these is to have fun 1 Daniel Hunziker @danielhunziker3577 vor 4 Stunden @VSS63 As a model maker, everything is always a challenge anyway 😅 Everything is super small and in the hobby workshop the design always has to be adapted to the own skills and machines. You always have to make compromises 🤷‍♂ @driverjamescopeland vor 2 Tagen Anxious to see dyno curve from this one. 5 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @rafaellastracom6411 vor 1 Tag I still see the problem with rotary valves being the valve sealing. A valve in sleeve assembly is bound to have compression losses and, more importantly, contamination issues. The difference in dimensions due to thermal loading necessitates a novel design in that area. 1 5 Mehr Antworten ansehen @guyvanbrussel9772 vor 1 Tag Those are VERY strange port timings ! 1 6 Mehr Antworten ansehen @challacustica9049 vor 2 Tagen beautiful engine! Would love to hear it rev longer if it is capable. What kind of lubrication does the rotary valve need? 3 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @Patricks_Projects vor 1 Tag Nice, but a good way to preheat the new fresh charge before enter the cylinder. 2 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @joshlewis5065 vor 16 Stunden It might be beneficial to adjust your valve timing with different ports on the head as well as wheere the slot is in comparison to the crank 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @Jaribm vor 1 Tag Ai voice overs 😂 cool project tho! 1 2 Mehr Antworten ansehen @damnthiccassboye7138 vor 1 Tag Hey have you tried to convert a 4stroke poppet valve to a 2stroke with external scavenging ? Mazda did a concept of it 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @spiroskatsikas vor 1 Tag I had that design 20 years ago and there are record of my design, which is very simple, maybe too similar 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @andrekustner2015 vor 2 Tagen Klasse 🎉 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @stocky9218 vor 2 Tagen That’s awesome, you are incredibly talented 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @hermankaiser8662 vor 1 Stunde Thats nice work, i have a similar rotary valve on my ktm 620, will be soon on the dyno @jokari69 vor 1 Stunde A whole new take on cross flow: With this design you make quite sure that quie a portion of the air-fuel mixture will end up directly in the exhaust without ever seeing the compustion chamber..... @humbertoarias8112 vor 1 Tag ❤❤❤❤ 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @johnpearson492 vor 2 Tagen It sounds like it's running very well! Did you specify the steel to have a similar thermal expansion coefficient to the cast iron sleeve? The fact that you are running some sort of oiled nitro fuel really is nice as it solves the lubrication challenges we have in our BMW rotary valve. 2 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @locodefra vor 1 Tag Buenas alternativa, pero no pueden evitar el consumo de aceite 1 1 Mehr Antworten ansehen @argentumflower592 vor 2 Tagen Ich bin wieder einmal mehr sehr beeindruckt. Bin gespannt welche Steuerung mehr Leistung bringt. Meine Bedenken sind, dass der relativ kleine Durchmesser des Ventils einen relativ kleine Zeitquerschnitt hat. Ich selber hätte nur eine Glühkerze verwendet, dafür einen grösseren Durchmesser gewählt Ach ja die Steuerzeitwn sind schon richtig deftig. Hast du da irgend ein Vorbild genommen? Klingt gut und scheint richtig gut zu laufen. 1 3 @danielhunziker3577 vor 1 Tag Hey Argentum 😃 Ich baue gerne Exoten und Versuchsmotoren. Auch der hier ist ein reiner Versuchsmotor. Interessanterweise ist der Ventilquerschnitt genau gleich wie beim anderen Motor. Hier ist er einfach rechteckig und beim anderen quadratisch. Ich vermute, dass dieser hier weniger Leistung haben wird aufgrund der 1 Ventiltechnik. Es wird den Gasfluss und die Zylinderfüllung negativ beeinflussen, dies weil hier im Vergleich zu getrennten Ventilen ein Strömungswechsel stattfinden muss. Die Steuerzeiten sind für einen Modellmotor nicht besonderes. Meine Steuerzeiten stammen aus einem Fachbuch "Rennwagentechnik von Michael Trzesniowski". Aus diesem Buch habe ich viel gelernt über Motoren. Klar, meine Modellmotoren sind nur eine Spielerei und haben nicht viel mit einem echten Motor zu tun. Mehr anzeigen @argentumflower592 vor 19 Stunden @danielhunziker3577 Das Buch habe ich übrigens auch. Ein Modellmotor 4T mit mehr als 320 Grad kenne ich nicht allerdings drehen die auch icht so hoch wie deiner. Bei Autos spricht man manchmal auch von 336 Grad Wellen. Man sagt die nehmen dann unter 5000 1/min. kaum Gas an. Du kannst ja mal ausprobieren wie weit du mit den Steuerzeiten gehen kannst. 1 @danielhunziker3577 vor 5 Stunden Hi Argentum 😃 Cool mit dir zu diskutieren! Bei anderen Kommentaren gewisser Leute ist das eher nicht so... Ich mag dieses Buch sehr, da es dich nicht mit Theorie voll ballert. Besonders die vielen Beispiele und Bilder aus der Praxis sind echt mega! Ich habe mir ein Excel gemacht mit allen Eckpunkten von vielen Modellmotoren. Betreffend Timing ist da Enya mit den 4C Motoren der Spitzenreiten. Die sind in der Region von Timing wie ich. Die drehen aber eben auch bis fast 20'000 U/min. Kennst du noch den Vorgänger 1 Zylinder Versuchsmotor von mir, den roten? in der 1.Ausbaustufe hatte der ein Timing von 30°/30°/30°/30°. Der kam so gerade mal auf 0.32 PS. Mit dem jetzigen Timing holst du 0.63 PS raus. Aber wie du richtig sagst, unter 3'000 U/min laufen meine auch nicht mehr richtig. Sie laufen noch gerade so für ein sauberes Standgas. Für ein Modellmotor ja schnuppe. Es ist tatsächlich auf meiner ToDo Liste, bei 1 Zylinder mal das Timing weiter zu erhöhen gemäss Liste Trzesniowski. Das wäre insbesondere spannend, weil bei einem Walzendreher so der Ventilquerschnitt auch grösser wird (du machst ja mit der Breite und Position das Timing). @argentumflower592 vor 0 Sekunden @danielhunziker3577 Excel ist für so was natürlich gut geeignet. Interessant ist noch der YT-Channel von Garage 4AGE. Dieser holt mit bescheidenen Mitteln relativ viel Leistung aus relativ alten und kleinen Toyota Saugmotoren raus. Er macht viele Experimente mit Steuerzeiten, Einlasstrichtern und Auspuffanlagen. Auch wenn es keine Drehschiebermotoren sind sind die Ergebnisse lehrreich. Die 40er Webramotoren haben soviel ich weiss, nur 260 Grad, im Vergleich zu den konventionellen Motoren eigentlich recht wenig. Bein Drehschieber darf der Kanal natürlich nicht zu breit werden. Wird der Kanal zu breit, aber zu wenig hoch, ist dies nicht so gut für die Strömung. Hast du mal gemessen wieviel die Doppelzünung bei hohen Drehzahlen bringt? Bei so einer kleinen Bohrung vermute ich, dass es nicht sehr viel bringt?

Hi Alfons 😃 I think you are right. Unlike 2 valves, with 1 valve the gas flow must change direction cyclically. This isn't optimal for cylinder filling. But the aim of my videos is to find out exactly these things with practical experiments. Just try something and see what happens, how big the influences are and whether there is further potential for improvement 😊

Dire " hai ragione" premia 1 punto per chi lo ascolta, ma 10 per chi lo dice. Ritornando al tuo video, è bello sperimentare, ma immagino che questo porti via molto tempo ed energie. Sono giunto alla conclusione che una soluzione con la candela al centro tra due valvole tipo "bishop" sia ottimale per la forma della camera di combustione, la posizione della candela, la alta capacità di flusso (2 valvole "bishop" piccole potrebbero fornire una portata paragonabile ad 1 valvola "bishop" grande).

www.v-eight.com/multimedia/pdf/AutoTechBRV.pdf

Hi Alfons 😃 My definition of a hobby is "the greatest possible effort with the least possible benefit" 😅 I enjoy it and that's the main thing. For a hobby, the effort involved isn't important. I know the systems of Bishop, Guy Negre and Coates. In model making, you have simple production tools and you are always limited. The parts are also really small. The systems you see in my videos are always adapted to the manufacturability and my skills. It's a hobby, nothing more. The cross system from Bishop would probably be the most feasible in model making. Info on the side: The size of the rotary valve is determined by the glow plug. It's standard in model making and relatively huge!

Danke 😊

Apparently you never listened/read what he said. He knows the problems of such engines. It is not a car engine but a model engine that is lubricated with a lot of oil. Do you do 500,000 km with a model engine?

@@barriegregory6606 As with all of us building rotary valves, it is for the fun of it. I've built many including one for an inline 6 BMW. Yes it has problems but it was and still is a fun project.

Hi Gregory 😃 I love your comment! Giving critical feedback on a project and giving reasons for it's a good technical feedback. I can only agree. With real engines, there are probably many disadvantages with rotary valve that outweigh the advantages. But don't forget, this isn't a real engine, it's just a simple model engine. I can live out with these projects my inventive spirit and can simply have fun. I'm happy when people follow my projects and also find them technically interesting. Isn't that a good thing? From my point of view, this is worthwhile 😊😊😊

​@@danielhunziker3577great answer, and the most important thing with projects like these is to have fun

@@VSS63 As a model maker, everything is always a challenge anyway 😅 Everything is super small and in the hobby workshop the design always has to be adapted to the own skills and machines. You always have to make compromises 🤷‍♂

Hi John 😃 Yes, it runs well. But I think that the single valve has a negative effect on the gas exchange and on the cylinder filling. But the engine is exactly there to find out such things in a practical test. So far I have chosen a special bronze as the material for the Rotary Valve (ENCC493K). I noticed that the exhaust side tends to jam due to the hot exhaust gases. However, I have fixed this problem as far as possible with the V8 (he still has several secrets 😉). As the rotary valve is always significantly hotter than the cast iron sleeve, it must have a significantly lower coefficient of linear expansion. I went a little overboard here and chose Invar steel (Invar 36 alloy). This works surprisingly well! It was hell to work with... super tough, high cutting pressure and endless burrs. A methanol, nitro and oil mixture is common in modelling. The engines have a very simple design and are only lubricated by the fuel. On the other hand, you have an active oil system in the BMW, which brings additional advantages!

Thanks man! I'm glad to hear that you like this experimental engine 😊

Hi James 😊 Me too! I have no idea what it will look like. Hopefully it will not blow up 😅

@danielhunziker3577 - 🤣 fingers crossed 🤞 While it doesn't sound like it revs as high as your previous single cylinder, throttle response is considerably better. The fact it sounds like a 2-stroke means you have some serious velocity on the exhaust. You could see noticeable gains by widening the exhaust manifold at the interface.

​@@JamesCopeland-i1j Hi James! It always want to make a one valve rotary valve head. I have to say that Hirtenberger has a very similar design in principle. People say they start poorly and the performance is modest. Coincidence? Spoiler: It isnt! My previous design is much better in terms of performance. The valve cross-section is constant over the entire inlet and outlet. This is always 50mm^2, even in the rotary valve itself. The rectangular cross-section must be like this, as the width of the rectangle determines the timing. The length is chosen so that the area is again 50mm^2 like the circular area of the 8mm exhaust and inlet diameter.

@danielhunziker3577 - I see now, you have full port exposure 👍

Hi man! It's engine which is new. So I don't wont to damage it already in the beginning. Because I will dyno it in the next part. There we will go than full throttle! Model 4 stroke engine are lubricated like 2 stroke engines. You have oil in the fuel which lubricates all parts. As well the rotary valve.

Hi man! I try to explain it in short statement: There isn't an active sealing. Tight tolerances, honed and ground surfaces and the high oil content in the rc fuel manage the sealing (dynamic oil sealing). Works very well for a as simpel as possible made model engine! Have you already seen my V8?

Hi William 😃 Thank you so much for watching my videos so intensively. I'm delighted that you like my work. I do my best to share my work with you guys as good as possible (sometimes the 3rd and 4th hand is missing 😅). How my rotary valve is held in position depends on the development stage. As you say correct, you have to support it axially on the exhaust side of the cylinder head. The exhaust gas creates a strong thrust force which otherwise pushes the rotary valve out of position. You can see that very well in my video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-MDYgEIvnpQk.html at 03:24. The toothed belt pulley or the gear wheel is attached to the rotary valve as a counterpart so that the axial play is 0.10 mm. Has this answered your question?

Hey man! I was able to acquire this engine unplanned. I'm currently working a lot on my new VR5 home made engine. But it will definitely be started at some point!

Hallo André 😃 Genau das war das Ziel. Insbesondere solche seltenen Motoren sieht man nie und deshalb möchte ich die auch zeigen und später auch hören. Insbesondere kennen viele Gary Conley und seine mega krasser Stinger 609. Aber viele wissen nicht wie Gary angefangen hat und wie seine ersten Motoren aussahen.

@@danielhunziker3577 klasse bin schon auf das Video gespannt wenn er läuft 👉😣👈

Vielen Dank! Du wirst diese ja eh mal in live sehen 😁😁😁

@@danielhunziker3577 🤤

Hi John 😃 Yeah, I like the exhaust headers as well! This engine is one my treasures in my collection. Made in USA and super rare. I'm happy 😊 These Mk1 engines from the 80s were the start of Gary Conley's career, which ended with his extreme Stinger 609 (here you can see Gary showing his last project ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-yA8jPjjPwkk.html).

Yes, the engine is a beauty and very rare. It's important to me to show it to you guys. It shows the beginning of Gary Conley's career and what his first milestone looked like on the way to his famous Stinger 609.

@@danielhunziker3577 Yep, his work came a long way

Well, there must be potential for improvement step by step 😉 But let's get serious. I cannot say enough that this is still a simply constructed model engine from the manufacturer OS. It's just a model engine without high tech and a lot of potential for improvement. With a newly manufactured cylinder head, for example, we could easily get over 1 hp. But that's not the goal. It should still be an OS FS-40s. Otherwise I might as well build a new one...