Welcome to my channel. I started off making videos about my DIY CNC machines I built and over the years have also been making videos on tool reviews, home, shop, woodworking, technology, and machinery projects.
Great video and helpful as I am doing my first filter change. I wanted to get some clarification on the final step/purge. If I understood correctly, after changing all filters and turning the water back on: 1. I turn on the drinking faucet and run it to a trickle to let the tank empty. 2. Once empty, I close the faucet to let the tank fill back up which will be 2-3 hours. 3. Once full, I run it empty one more time and then let it fill again and then it is good to drink. Lastly, I have a line to the fridge. Should I turn that line off during the purge process? Or any advice on process. Thank you again
We have had this for years and today it stopped pumping and leaking out of the top where the rubber circle plug is at the top with the teo power lines go inside. We treat it every 6 months also but I’m worried it might have some kind of buildup still if maybe someone drained something down the sink they shouldn’t have. I disconnected the pipes to see if there was a clog and didn’t see any but the screws are rusted if I was to try to take it apart. I was wondering if there’s any way to (not sure the right words) “descale, unclog, maybe breakdown” anything inside the machine by pouring it down the sink into it, besides the treatment we usually do so we don’t waste it if it does nothing. I just don’t know what to do and trying to not spend money we don’t have. ANY advice?
Also, we have never pour any other chemicals down the drain before besides flo descaler every 4-6 months (we were told by the person who installed it that anything else could ruin the pump.
If you, or anyone else could help with advice, I thank you in advance. I’ve searched all over the internet and can’t find any other videos about this exact machine that could help.
@@ZM-oo6ks If you're comfortable doing it I would take it apart, take the screws out and do a visual inspection of the pump inside the basin. These pumps and their float switches are very simple components and you might just either have the pump clogged or the float switch got stuck and it's not activating the pump even though it's overflowing, which what you described sounds like it is if water is coming out of the cable grommet.
Thank you so much for replying back so quickly, I think at this point I’m going to try to attempt that I just hope I can get them off because they’re pretty rusted after all these years lol. I was just hoping that There would be some kind of Safe chemical that I could try to pour into the system that might breakdown anything That might be causing the problem without having to force these bolts open lol Again, thank you so much. I will give you a follow and send a like. I think you’re the first person to actually reply back to me about some thing that I needed help with on RU-vid.
@@ZM-oo6ks For troubleshooting I always start with the following mentality: - The solution to a problem is most likely the simplest (Occam's Razor) - Make sure the power cord is plugged in! I don't think the chemical method will help, those products for drains are not good ways to clear issues, much better to take it apart do a visual inspection and see what's going on. Does it make any sound at all, like a stalled motor, or is it silent even when you observed it was overflowing? Did you check to make sure a GFCI isn't tripped and the outlet is working? Always start simple, isolate electrical from mechanical problems, and eliminate the easy culprits first before you tear into equipment, lessons learned!
Great video! This is similar to the system I am getting and am planning a basement installation directly below the kitchen sink. I see you installed your feed (red) directly to your copper supply, which is what I imagine doing, though I know nothing about the shark bite connections. Would I be able to run the drain (black) line to the vertical drain that runs straight into the floor?
@skinfiddler yes you can do it on the vertical, it shouldn't make any difference. If you can do it like I did high up on the horizontal though it will definitely never leak, no matter how old that gasket gets.
Hey I found a small yellow pin with a black tiny tube that came out of one of the connectors but I have no clue where. My system works but I wonder if I was supposed to put it back somewhere.
I tried to do this myself and could not get the housing to budge. Had a friend come by and he got the first off. Although we had already cut the water off (main faucet and other areas), water was spewing everywhere. We could not figure out why. Got it off, changed filter, and replaced quickly. 2nd and third housings will not budge!!! He's strong too. Tried WD40.. didn't help. Don't know what else to do.
How did you get the 4th stage housing cap off? It keeps turning in my hand no matter how hard I hold it. Poor design. There should be something to grip.
If it won't turn by hand try channel locks (one without teeth just flat smooth jaws) so it does not damage the teeth on the housing cap. I think one of the spanners that comes with the kit also fits over this cap to give more leverage on removing it. Once you get it off make sure you re-tighten by hand only, it won't be that tight to come off again.
Thanks for this quick, easy video. We followed all the steps and replaced everything. Checked for leaks. However, we’re no longer getting the proper pressure/flow. We’ve waited 12 hours now. Did you experience this? Have any suggestions for troubleshooting?
Did you shut off your storage tank before removing anything? All I can think of is somehow you lost the precharge on the tank, as one person commented you can repressurize the tank but I've never had to do it yet in almost 7 years same pressure. You can call apec too they have decent technical support.
@@briancnc Yep, we did all the steps you did. But did drain all the water from system. So that caused the loss of precharge. Will look to see how to repressurize. Thanks!
@@shivpalvansadia9152 You may have let the pressure out by accident. In any event better to get the pressure set correctly either way. Run the tank empty if it's not already and there is a schrader valve (bicycle tire style) on the front of the tank with a blue cap. Remove the cap and pump the tank up to around 5psi. Refill the system and you should be good to go.
I have soft water. TDS is around 85 and using this system goes down to about 5 PPM. I found I can change at around a year for the 6 month filters and 2 years for the 1 year filters. Thank you for the video as it’s a nice refresher when I change them out.
Why did you cut out the step where you unscrew the cap off the membrane housing? My guess is you had to use a metal tool to hold the membrane housing while removing the cap, which defies your initial advice not to use metal tools.
@@briancnc Lol, bro you're funny. To everyone seeking advice on how to remove the Membrane housing cap: If the collet provided isn't enough, grab a plumbers wrench and tighten it around the membrane casing to apply counterforce as you beat the collet with a hammer.
I'm not sure on the water quality, you could reach out to Apec and ask them about that, but on the pressure side you would need a water pump to do that, the inlet pressure must be comparable to city water pressure to have a decent output.
I used a logic level relay board (sainsmart) but ended up adding a motor contactor for the size of the load (16A) full load amps. If I did it again I'd just use the new arduino based finder plc they sell and do it all in one package and just add circuit protection.
you should drill a whole in the PVC pipe inside the housing so the pump doesn't get vapor locked. Why the hell would you have a check valve after the trap that makes no sense on a sealed system
The check valve is to prevent backflow. Albeit given the size of the holding tank and my vertical stack is pretty short I reckon if you had enough lift to get over the back flow could cause the pump to short cycle in the right conditions.
You didn't sterilize the system with bleach nor repressurize the storage tank. You should sterilize it every time you change the RO membrance. You should repressurize it to 5-7psi on an empty tank every year.
Per the OEM manual you're not supposed to sterilize the system, but rather the 2 plastic ports in the Tee fitting and the port of the filter (only the 5th stage carbon filter. I do these off camera. Anyone doing this should also read their manual appropriately to ensure they aren't contaminating their potable water nor damaging the system by running a sanitizing solution through it. Good tip on the tank, I have yet to see a discernable difference in output water pressure, but will check it out this weekend.
Thanks, did it once but only by written directions, video was better. Put everything back together, tightened all connections and turned water on.......Hey, what's that O ring doing on the counter? ........SPRAYYYYYYYY!! Oops....!
