I have a 2015 GMC canyon....similar, but I ended up using a cutoff wheel to remove a couple of the fasteners. It just wasn't possible to get to the head of the bolt without removing basically the whole front grille and other parts. I don't really care about the milage, it's just around town driving and rarely sees any highway. Another thing I removed was the side steps....talk about fugly.
All of these mfers in here talking shit like they're Mr super technician. I guarantee he did so much better than most of, if not all of, the shit talkers would have. A lot of interior pieces are difficult to disassemble if you've never done it or don't have a background in it. Not only that but you're going to break tabs sometimes, period. A lot of the clips hold tighter than the minimum pressure that must be applied to remove them especially when the clip cannot be cradled while removing it. Y'all talking all that shit when your dumb asses had to look up how to remove a center console lmao
Nice video. You know what be cool though? If we could shove all this under the hood in a lightly insulated box and give it a little forced induction to keep it cool
keep a eye on frame they rust quick im fixing my 08 now 4x4 single cab z71 love that little truck got 140 thou on it popped leaf spring hanger to be fair its hsd lot gravel and ton of red dog had bring off mountain a mile rough road empty payload lol
The diode is to stop any current leakage, it should be connected to the purple wire. Then all you need is 12v power to the switch. Power goes through the switch into the purple but nothing can come back with the diode in place.
Hi Mario thanks for the video but i have a few questions : can you run the power cable (positive fron the car battery ) to the DC /DC charge and dont run it for the alternator? is any option to run the ignition wire fron the fuse box to the charge instead to destroyer the cigarette light ? Thanks
Hey there, alicialafon6837. Whether or not you can run the positive cable from your battery to the DC/DC charger will depend on a few factors. Most likely, the answer is, yes. However, at the very least, connecting the DC/DC charger to your battery will increase the length of your connection or, in other words, the resistance of your connection. Your battery is not the source of current. The supply of current is your alternator. There is, at least, one cable that connects your battery to your alternator. You would have to factor in the length of the cable(s) that connect your batter to your alternator, along with those cables' thicknesses, number of terminations, and fuses (if any) for a conclusive answer. In short, the overall resistance may be negligible, but doing the math is the only way to know, short of trial and error which may result in fire. There may be a fuse block near the battery of your vehicle that has a pre-engineered high amperage terminal. Your manual or fuse block wiring diagram may be able to further assist. Regarding the cigar lighter accessory thing. No, you do not have to sacrifice an existing power supply for the DC/DC charger's "post-ignition" trigger/sensor. I chose to destroy my cigar lighter power accessory thing because of its proximity to my project and the fact I do not need it. Alternatively, I could have run a wire from a post ignition accessory terminal within the truck's "fuse box". The trick here is finding a 12v source that is only on when the key is turned and the ignition is on. I hope this is helpful in addressing your questions.
Hi Mario. I love your video but wanted to mention a couple things I've learned. The proper, and necessary, fittings for pex and for flexible vinyl hose are different and not interchangeable...that's why you don't ever see that in your home plumbing. That's not to code anywhere because it leaks. Unfortunately, many rv manufacturers do this...like my 2022 Grand Design Imagine trailer. Anyway, the vinyl hose requires the 'shark tooth/Christmas tree ' style fittings whereas the pex requires the smooth style fittings. Also, the crimp rings are never applied flush to the hose. They're meant to be installed 1/8" - 1/4" back from the end...depending on the fitting used.
Here's my free advice, go out and purchase 2 or 3 cans of bear spray. Always carry on your hikes and anytime your on foot!! I'm a 42yr law enforcement officer. Enjoy your travels.
PVC braided lines need to have the factory compression fittings with brass seats. Just look underneath your bathroom faucet or toilet in your home. If you are going to replace the PVC with PEX and you need to make a sweeping arc, I just heat the PEX with a propane torch or heat gun. It will mold to easily up to 90 degrees. Heat and bend. Mixing the 2 different pipes on a single connection with PEX clamps is not code for home use or RV standard. But it’s cheap and fast to install. I wouldn’t pressurize the system past 30 psi, but sooner or later it is going to leak when the PVC expands.
The barb design for PEX and PVC are totally different and this is where many of the issues occur. The two different types of tubing require different types of fittings AND clamps. The RV manufacturers skimp out to save every penny possible. These types of mixed connections are not allowed for use in homes and would be a code violation (for good reason). The only decent way to fix this in a RV (without completely re-plumbing the rig) would be to use adaptor fittings designed for the two types of tubing. For instance, PEX barbed to NPT on the PEX side and PVC barbed to NPT (opposite gender) on the PVC side. Not a cheap fix but a much better way to deal with it in the long run. Unfortunately, leaks due to improper fittings don't usually show up right away and often times, not until after the warranty period.
We had a slow leak on the input to our water pump. Winnebago had used the flex PVC with a barbed fitting that I think was for PEX on the water pump end, and they used a PEX clamp over the PVC tubing. It started oozing under the clamp and around the end of the PVC tubing. This was after maybe 3 or 4 years from the build date. I got a new proper PVC barbed fitting when we were at LaxyDays in Tampa (they just gave it to me for free, so really nice of them). I used 2 screw type clamps over the PVC and this proper fitting for the pump end. No more leaks, and I check it every trip. So you really should make sure to use the proper fittings and not follow what the manufacturers typically do..
I can't for the life of me figure out why anyone would want to convert to a type of pipe that has such a high failure rate. Don't do what this guy is doing.
Just had to do this today and came here looking for an easier way... seems we both had the same idea. Putting the clamp rings on even with heat expansion its not easy. Not sure how these manufacturers are getting them on like they are haha. Something tells me it should probably be illegal for them to do this, it probably would be if it were residential piping...
It’s best to remove your wheels from the vehicle and if necessary use a scraper to clean off any cemented mud. Thoroughly wash the inside of the wheel. It may be a good time to have your wheels balanced.
Mario, My brother and I saw what appeared to be a mountain lion at Falcon State Park by cabin 17 a few years back. We stayed up late by the camp fire and the cat just slowly walked by us on the edge of the fire light and darkness. We just stayed still and let it pass by. Scary, sure, Cool, ABSOLUTELY
I installed this 3.5" SST Lift Kit on my 2021 GMC Canyon AT4, and while everything was installed correctly, the problem is the TOP hat that Readylift included on this kit, That has to be the worst design ever, but not only did the top hat overly compressed the OEM coil spring (per their own note, 3/4" extra) making the ride, stiff, over-extending the OEM Strut and ignoring several other bad reviews about broken struts. I called a few times and asked about the issue... no help. seems not even their tech support knows how to fix that, and they make it clear in their own words "Do not use aftermarket struts" This kit was designed to be used with OEM components. I very much doubt that. the issue again is that the strut is over-extended forcing the coil to over-compress an extra 0.75" inches, it creates a dangerous situation that can make the strut shaft fatigue and break. It leaves your suspension stiff, not rebound, and with any small bump you can feel the strut Top-out due to over-extending. I do not understand why not make the top hat 0.75" shorter to alleviate this issue or recommend a shorter coil or longer strut. either way, the kit is unusable. (parts of) I have asked several 4x4 shops in my area, and "ALL" told me their customers usually scrap this kit and upgrade to a different brand. I am not going to waste money, as I am going to try to salvage what I can, I will keep the Upper control arms, swaybar relocation bracket, and front differential spacers, but I have ordered RC 2" Loaded Struts and a 0.5" level kit spacers. so I can get a total lift of about 2.5-2.75" front lift, using a new fully assembled coil/strut made for lifting 2" (as it has a longer strut) this is also because my truck ended higher in the front that on the rear, before measurements from the floor to the edge of the fender lip were Front L 25.2"/Front R 25.5" and Rear L 27.1"/Rear R 27.3", now after the lift Front L 29"/Front R 29.1 and Rear L 28"/Rear R 28.2", I do not know if ReadyLift screwup or GM changed specs on the 2021-2022 models of the Canyon/Colorado, but the 1" spacer leaves a sagging rear. I am hoping after my RC 2" Loaded Struts and the 0.5" Level kit I will achieve about 2.5-2.75" Front lift that will leave the Front about 28"+/- and level with the rear while regaining my near OEM ride quality. I will save the ReadyLift Top hat, to experiment with in the future if I decide to lift the front more; my other idea is to order Eibach Pro truck struts and shocks, those are made to ride level or up to 3" extra, allowing me to dial how much the top hat compress the OEM coil. I am doing more research with Eibach regarding the total length of the strut, but it seems it might work. technically the strut needs to be 0.75"+ longer to correct the over-compression of the coil. Now I have to do the work of re-designing my own lift kit without ReadyLift's help. I hope some of this information is taken by ReadyLift to fix their kit and not just ignored as another bad review. Unfortunately, ReadyLift tech support is lacking, they do not know their own product or care to help, if they care they would investigate the safety issue its own hardware is creating and either redesign it or stop selling it. help their existing customers and save their name, but when I bought it I was under the impression ReadyLift was a reputable company... man was I wrong.
