Welcome to DesmoHead Garage. If you are interested in car and motorbike related service and maintenance processes and information then watch my videos.
Hi what is the benefit of changing this . I had issues with ducati 796 when temperature 4 bar , and hot , sometime my clutch lever become free .. do i need change the clutch slave cylinder or new clutch lever only ?
Hi. The benefit is that this slave cylinder has got more linear characteristics so the clutch operation is smoother. As your issue: what does "temperature 4 bar" mean? Bar is for pressure. The root cause of your clutch behaviour needs service. Could be old clutch fluid with lot of moisture and air trapped, clutch master or slave cylinder worn out etc. Cannot tell without check of the system. Clutch lever doesn't need to be replaced for sure: it's just a piece of metal.
@@SundeeStudios I used two types of resins. CX-80 was for filling the bottom part of the holes and it is fuel resistant. The top cover was a low viscosity resin to create a nice flat cover surface. It is not fuel resistant, at least the datasheet dies not tell anything about it.
I haven't serviced 1260 Enduro yet but I suppose it's needed to remove the fuel tank to get access. Radiator seems to be in the same or very similar position as for 1260S. Fuel tank might cover it around since it's got bigger capacity.
@@DesmoHead I managed it by getting someone to pour it while I held a the flexi hose in the top of the radiator, it was very awkward but I wasn't draining a 30 litre tank lol. Your video helped none the less 👍
@@DesmoHeadthanks for the help and quick reply, as im on here if you've ever adjusted your chain, do you know the torque setting for the two small bolts you loosen on the wheel hub? 😊
@@geofflove7692 Depends on your process. Should you remove the bolts you need to use B-grease to lubricate the threads. Tightening torque is 35Nm for the hub bolts. As for the splash guard it needs Threadlock-2 and 10Nm. Tolerances are +-10%.
Thanks for the content. Really good videos. It would be useful if you could do an Annual Servis check video. Obviously without lengthy topics like oil change. Just focus on overall inspection, bolts tightening etc. Good luck with channel !!!
Hello. No problem, however, my services are usually more frequent than annual. But the "rest of them" can be in another video. Good idea. I will prepare it.
I know. Not my dog. Here around me there are only idiots keep dogs with no clue how to treat them so all the dogs have also become idiots. Not their faults but yes very annoying.
I did the Ducabike clutch slave cylinder replacement on my 2015 1200S and was amazed at the outcome! Had to reduce the clutch pull by at least 30%, couldn't be happier! only wish I did it sooner!
I encountered the same wear on the bushings and a bunch of scratches inside the outer fork tube on my 1200s DVT. I’ve heard the opinion that this is an unrecognized defect of Sachs forks on all 950-1200-1260 Multi's and appears closer to 30-40,000 km, and when approaching this mileage figure, the outer fork tubes require replacement with new ones (34921981A) at a not very affordable price. Have you inspected the condition of the coating inside the outer forks?
Yes I inspected it after disassembly and cleaning. I haven't seen or found anything else but the wearing on the bushing. Do you have links for that info about the outer fork tube replacement need? I would check it with some investigation. Thanks in advance.
Hello there & thank you for your video! It happens for me to have the exact same brand of charging base, whilst I have also a similar bracket. The Garmin wiring info is very useful. I was wondering though if it's possible to use the USB cable with the Ducati adapter for giving power to the charging stand.. And also how did you mount the base to the bracket without using the mounting tools? I agree that the distance will be long but this isn't it also limiting the movement if you want to adjust it? Thank you for time and video 😊
Hello. First check the operation voltage of your charging base. The USB output gives you 5V while the power adapter socket (below the lower right corner of the instrument cluster) gives you 12V. For fixing the base I used the aluminium cylinder I showed in the video. There is a threaded hole in the middle of it and I used the base screw that holds the clamp to fix it to the cylinder. To screw it in I needed to remove the four screws that hold the damping element of the charger on its back just to get access to the screw head that fixes the charger to the aluminium cylinder. I also used strong threadfix to avoid any unnecessary movement due to any load or vibration. For adjustment I use the horizontal position so no need to rotate the charger base (but it is possible since the screw to the aluminium cylinder allows it) and for tilting the cylinder screws on its side make it possible.
@@DesmoHead Appreciate the swift response.. Very useful information, thank you for sharing in detail 🙏 Keep the good vids coming, wish you rememberable riding times 👌
Yes, a BMW L6 FPK and a RR Redesign. Two of my "children" from production I was responsible of. :-) And I'm proud of them. The Multistrada V4 and BMW GS1250 instrument clusters are also my "babies" on development side on display level. There is a V4 cluster in the garade also. ;-) And many others.
I just did my second fork oil change on my 2016 MTS 1200E and your tips on not removing the tank and how to disassemble the electronic left fork cap worked perfectly - THANKS AGAIN! Please forgive the long comment, but I have one question and one tip that I learned. QUESTION: after your reinstallation, how easy was it for you to slide your axle in? I found that if I align the top fork cap height I struggle with the axle, but if I adjust the right passive fork to make the axle slide in easily it’s ~2.5mm lower than the left leg. I decided to go with the fork height per the manual which is +/- 0.1mm and as you stated is almost impossible to measure from the lower yoke. TIP: this time I also removed the damping cartridges on both legs to give everything a much needed internal clean. You can remove them using a long 8mm allen/hex socket at the bottom of each leg. When reassembling it’s important to note the oblong cutout inside the bottom of each stantion. You have to rotate the damping cartridge to seat it properly in the cutout which prevents it from turning when you reinstall the retaining bolt. If you don’t seat it properly, you won’t have full range on your preload (ask me how I know). When reassembling the torque setting for the bottom cartridge bolt is 30 Nm. Overall it wasn’t too difficult and worth while you’re there.
Thank you for the tip. I take it. :-) As for your question: I haven't experienced such a situation. The length should be the same and the front axle should slide in easily. Did you experienced it only for your second fork oil change or also for the first? There are some items inside the fork that can easily be installed upside down and could create such problem. One example: if you check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iCgauBiEnGQ.html please see the position of the black spacer at 8:30 during disassembly. And at 24:35 it can be seen that during the assembly it was put back in upside down position. According to the comments they discovered and fixed it. Are you sure that you put back all components in a proper position?
@@DesmoHead Thank you for the quick reply and I did not consider that. I experienced the axle misalignment each time. Also interestingly when I had no preload on the right fork (full CCW) the axle was roughly 2.5 mm off, but with full preload (full clockwise) it was only 1 mm off. On both stalls the black collar is oriented correctly, but on the second reinstall I cannot tell in my photo which way the white plastic collar is oriented. I do remember it coming off, but thought it only fit one way. Easy enough to pull the right fork so I will disassemble everything and double check. That also might explain why I only get ~9.7 full turns on the preload nut vs a full 10 turns. Thank you very much!!!
Thanks for posting. When I did my fork service on my MTS1200E 2 years ago I couldn’t get the ring nut loose for the life of me on the electronic fork. Now I know the secret - THANKS AGAIN!
Hi i have a 2019 multi s and can see corrosion under the waterpump cover Will i need to fit spacers after removing foam to refit original cover? What tourque value for the water cover bolts My bike is out of warranty and if i fit a smaller cover than original it will show the corrosion
Hello. You don't need any spacer: there are two pins for the plastic cover in which you turn the two screws. Just throw that foam simply away. You might remove the corroded parts of the water pump cover and paint it with some proper paint that is not visible under the cover to protect the metal surface. Or replace it but it has got some more serious cost effect. This is an unfortunate design failure that cannot be seen until the corrosion extends over the cover. The tightening torque of the two plastic cover screws is 5Nm.
@DesmoHead thanks a lot for your reply I will take the cover off tomorrow for a proper look and remove the foam them maybe apply ACF50 and replace cover Keep up the good work 👏 some useful content 👌
Just a small sugestion: at the point when you dive the front suspension, put the motorbike On, to actívate the Skyhook system. Without power, there is no hydraulics at all. Nice set of videos, by the way
Hello. Thanks for your feedback. You're right in the way that the weight load can be smoother when the suspension is active. However, the service manual does not say that the ignition needs to be switched on. That movement is to make the shaft to settle in the right loaded position by the weight of the bike. But I admit that sometimes even the factory manual I have contains funny things. ;-)
@@xabierperezfiano4411 I haven't removed it yet so I don't have any video. What I can put down here is the following: 1.: Remove the seat. 2.: Remove the rear LH side body panel. 3.: Remove the seat latch. 4.: Remove the retaining bracket of the preload control. 5.: Disconnect the rear shock absorber preload cable connector and rear shock absorber adjuster cable. 6.: Unscrew the upper and lower screws of the shock absorber. 7.: Then slide the rear shock absorber out with its electronic preload tube. I hope it helps.
Hi, Thank you for the video. You said run the bike up to allow the fans to kick in - is that on the side stand? also if any more coolant is needed in the expansion tank is that checked on the side stand when cold? Thank you
Hi. The cooling system is a closed circuit so it doesn't matter if the bike is on the side stand or on a centre stand. As for the expansion tank it's practically the same situation: there is a range between min. and max. so you doesn't fail if you refill it either with the bike on the sidestand or the centre stand. But of course the most accurate level check is on the centre stand.
Thank you for your feedback. As for cleaning the inner side of the fork yes I always do it. I use petrol and let it evaporate after flushing the fork parts.
Part of preventative maintenance here is to add a solution to your fuel for any long periods of time where the bike will be sat. I use Motorex ethanol treatment due to modern fuel having high ethanol content which can degrade parts in the fuel tank. I've had 3 multistradas and used this solution in all 3 and never had an issue after my first fuel sender failure.
Screw all that. Chop the wires, put a resistor between the 2 wires and abandon the piece of shit sensor in the tank. Your bike will always read the same, but at least you wont have to change the sensor every 2k miles. Its a bike, NOT a car. Wanna know how much fuels in it? Open the tank cap thats literally under your nose and look, or wobble the bike back and forth and listen. I road dirtbikes for decades, guess what no dirtbike has EVER had? A fuel guage display. Never ran out of gas one single time.
In a case I would not need a fuel level indication I might do this. But this video is for another solution and let the others choose what they want to screw. ;-)
Same gauge supplier I suppose. It is a strange design to me and I'm pretty much sure that during the development there was no real validation to meet these issues during an aging test or similar load. But in exchange it is cheap...or cheaper than a fully validated one. 😝
Hi. Unfortunately not. I ordered it from a 3D printing company: measured them on the bike. I have Paint drawings only and they did not keep the stl files.
SKF is the supplier for my bike. Might be the same. I expect a bit more from SKF but this is the XXIst century consumer market: need to supply cheap stuff therefore they are crap. :-)
@@jackoff7770 Same situation on my side: there are failures and faults but the whole picture is so passionate and seducing that I forgive it to her. ;-)
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanations and congratulations for your excellent and and carefulness mechanical skills. I do really appreciate the contribution.
Hello. I have a 19 plate 1260 too. Would love to do my own servicing but how are you going about removing the service light on the dash when it comes up?
Hello. I have an OBDSTAR iScan instrument bought. I clear the service lights and warnings with it. You can also go to a dealer but my experience is that most of them refused to clear it in a case the service was done by myself. They need to send all service info to Ducati cloud and this way the responsibility is theirs in a case of any issue. So I understand them. As for independent services I have no experience. That's why I bought the iScan. There is Melcodiag also available but I have no experience with it. It's a "free" SW and need cable harness only.
@@DesmoHead Thanks, had a look and would be about 20 quid more than a service from ducati so well worth that. Hope you do a video soon on how to use one and clear the service light. Glad you have started chanel, not much on the short years of the 1260
@@giff2005 Thanks for your feedback. Of course I will make video on how to use this iScan stuff. I need to wait springtime here when my garage will be warm enough. :-) As for service lights clear it will take a bit longer since I still have about 15k km left until the next service. Unless someone would come with a Ducati and ask me to clear some codes. ;-)
Thank you very much for your feedback. It is always a motivation to continue what I have started. I hope I can give a lot of useful content to my scrubscribers. (Sister model as a Hyperstrada or Hypemotard I suppose...;-))
Great video. I like your careful methodical approach. I do hope you do some more similar videos, eg: I cannot remove the panel beside / under the seat.
Thanks for your feedback. Of course I will make more videos. The side body panel will bw removed/reinstalled at the desmo service next time. It is a strange design and you need to check the fixing ponts. There are three and you cannot apply it easily due to the contradictive design of the two fins at the inner side of the panel. You need to push it and bend it at the same time and you need a strong faith that you would not break the plastic. Well, you would not if you are careful an see how to position it during the installation.
Thanks for watching it. The bike stood on its centre stand and to prevent it falling forward I hung it up with that green strap that can be seen at the middle of the handlebar. So it was stable enough.
