Thanks for posting. When I did my fork service on my MTS1200E 2 years ago I couldn’t get the ring nut loose for the life of me on the electronic fork. Now I know the secret - THANKS AGAIN!
Thanks a lot for the detailed explanations and congratulations for your excellent and and carefulness mechanical skills. I do really appreciate the contribution.
I just did my second fork oil change on my 2016 MTS 1200E and your tips on not removing the tank and how to disassemble the electronic left fork cap worked perfectly - THANKS AGAIN! Please forgive the long comment, but I have one question and one tip that I learned. QUESTION: after your reinstallation, how easy was it for you to slide your axle in? I found that if I align the top fork cap height I struggle with the axle, but if I adjust the right passive fork to make the axle slide in easily it’s ~2.5mm lower than the left leg. I decided to go with the fork height per the manual which is +/- 0.1mm and as you stated is almost impossible to measure from the lower yoke. TIP: this time I also removed the damping cartridges on both legs to give everything a much needed internal clean. You can remove them using a long 8mm allen/hex socket at the bottom of each leg. When reassembling it’s important to note the oblong cutout inside the bottom of each stantion. You have to rotate the damping cartridge to seat it properly in the cutout which prevents it from turning when you reinstall the retaining bolt. If you don’t seat it properly, you won’t have full range on your preload (ask me how I know). When reassembling the torque setting for the bottom cartridge bolt is 30 Nm. Overall it wasn’t too difficult and worth while you’re there.
Thank you for the tip. I take it. :-) As for your question: I haven't experienced such a situation. The length should be the same and the front axle should slide in easily. Did you experienced it only for your second fork oil change or also for the first? There are some items inside the fork that can easily be installed upside down and could create such problem. One example: if you check this video ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-iCgauBiEnGQ.html please see the position of the black spacer at 8:30 during disassembly. And at 24:35 it can be seen that during the assembly it was put back in upside down position. According to the comments they discovered and fixed it. Are you sure that you put back all components in a proper position?
@@DesmoHead Thank you for the quick reply and I did not consider that. I experienced the axle misalignment each time. Also interestingly when I had no preload on the right fork (full CCW) the axle was roughly 2.5 mm off, but with full preload (full clockwise) it was only 1 mm off. On both stalls the black collar is oriented correctly, but on the second reinstall I cannot tell in my photo which way the white plastic collar is oriented. I do remember it coming off, but thought it only fit one way. Easy enough to pull the right fork so I will disassemble everything and double check. That also might explain why I only get ~9.7 full turns on the preload nut vs a full 10 turns. Thank you very much!!!
Thank you for your feedback. As for cleaning the inner side of the fork yes I always do it. I use petrol and let it evaporate after flushing the fork parts.
I encountered the same wear on the bushings and a bunch of scratches inside the outer fork tube on my 1200s DVT. I’ve heard the opinion that this is an unrecognized defect of Sachs forks on all 950-1200-1260 Multi's and appears closer to 30-40,000 km, and when approaching this mileage figure, the outer fork tubes require replacement with new ones (34921981A) at a not very affordable price. Have you inspected the condition of the coating inside the outer forks?
Yes I inspected it after disassembly and cleaning. I haven't seen or found anything else but the wearing on the bushing. Do you have links for that info about the outer fork tube replacement need? I would check it with some investigation. Thanks in advance.
Hi, Excellent video. Can you please tell me how the Fork cable is disconnected? Does the plug have a clip on it which needs released before separation? Thank you Paul
The cable connector itself is in a rubber block in which there are a few other connectors. Simply needs to pull it and then you can see the connector itself and you can disconnect it. There are also a few rubber fasteners to disconnect. It's a kind of fun due to the lack of space. That's why I didn't make a video of it: nothing could be seen. The cable is under a thicker one on the last third of its length but it made no sense of pulling it through during assembly. It was most probably due to manufacturing assembly order but you can easily find a proper position when you reconnect it. I made photos of the cabling route and the position of rubber fasteners before I disconnected it. Under normal circumstances the fork service is done at every 30k km so together with the desmo service. For desmo service the fuel tank fairing and the fuel tank itself is removed so it gives much easier access to the cable.
Thanks for watching it. The bike stood on its centre stand and to prevent it falling forward I hung it up with that green strap that can be seen at the middle of the handlebar. So it was stable enough.
Hi. Unfortunately not. I ordered it from a 3D printing company: measured them on the bike. I have Paint drawings only and they did not keep the stl files.
Yes, a BMW L6 FPK and a RR Redesign. Two of my "children" from production I was responsible of. :-) And I'm proud of them. The Multistrada V4 and BMW GS1250 instrument clusters are also my "babies" on development side on display level. There is a V4 cluster in the garade also. ;-) And many others.
SKF is the supplier for my bike. Might be the same. I expect a bit more from SKF but this is the XXIst century consumer market: need to supply cheap stuff therefore they are crap. :-)
@@jackoff7770 Same situation on my side: there are failures and faults but the whole picture is so passionate and seducing that I forgive it to her. ;-)
