Hey you’re on the right track with your guess on that clutch assembly. Before safety trips were built into the standards the hitches themselves would release and it would have a rope that ran to the plow to disengage the clutch, for obvious reasons they got nicknamed “knee knockers”. Good lookin tractor happy to see another one brought back to life, keep up the work hope to see more videos of it in the future! You’ve definitely earned a sub from me👍🏼
Would it be possible for you to show me a diagram of those adaptors with the hole measurements? I've gotten a fast hitch and would love to mount it on one of my M s
Exactly why I got this I wish they offered a turbo 4.3 like Ford’s V6 eco-boost As it stands right now, my trip counter says 20 MPG for the 238 miles on this tank with lots of in town driving
I've worked in automotive factories.I've owned my own 10 car hauler. I've sold cars built cars and raced cars. And I can definitely say with authority.....this is the worst time in human history for cars!! It's always nice to have a brand new vehicle. But when you have to pay that mortgage on wheels and you don't live in it.....I'd say it's a joke🖕 If you just bought a new car I hope you feel like a millionair😃 you should feel rich because most of us can't afford to buy a new car these days......and to make matters worse , the quality is crap on every brand!! Then to add insult to injury, they won't even help you out by letting you do your own maintenance on the car🖕 These are not opinions, these are FACTS from professionals and a avail. In print. Look at how many cars are selling these days. There's only a handful of cars Being made today that are gonna be around in ten years.
That may be your opinion but I’ve never owned a vehicle newer than 1996 before this and I am tired of working on things and not having a/c also I wasn’t about to pay 20k for a truck that has 75k on it just to have the transmission go out I’ve watched that story play out over and over I have two 1 ton trucks if I need to haul something heavy but this 2.7 has more power than both of them and gets double the mpg of anything I’ve ever owned I really don’t care if it blows up because it’s under warranty
@@DrRust The prices of new vehicles are now for the semi rich. Manufacturers want to make more money on wall st. by making exclusive systems that don't last more than a few years in the real world. Nothing has changed in the automotive industry except what you're paying to drive it and you CANT FIX IT!!! I respect your opinion.....I also respect how much money you're spending on that opinion. But most of us simply can't afford to do that. Enjoy your ride👍
I am in a position where don’t have other bills so I can afford the massive payment But I definitely could fix it if I needed to. But instead of spending $200ish a month on preventive maintenance I have a car payment now and it’s saving me $100+ a month in fuel costs so it offsets the cost a little I’ve driven the last 10 years in cars/trucks older than 96 and I have run out of time for repairs my free time is worth more to me than the payment now I don’t plan on keeping it more than a few years because I don’t trust it
I'm getting 19 miles to the gallon out of a 2011 5.7 l V8 If I keep my foot out of it. It can tow anytime I need it and Ive got over two hundred k on it. So when they say they can't build them that way. Anymore They're full of it. They just want more of our money
My 2000 dodge ram diesel can easily go over 18-21 mpg. I have 3 tool boxes fully loaded and i drove from ca y az total 620 miles in 1 full tank 30 gallons..
glad you saved it knock that mtr down put new sleeves pistons do it some love i recently bought a h built almost to the day of my birth it will never leave the farm
the last of super m had a place to bolt fast hitch on i have seen them also you can use a supermta rear end jjust change it over to 12 volt starter will take it may have to replace recoil spring on bendix it will break eventually
My boss bought a new Tundra non-hybrid. He got a small lift and slightly bigger tires. It gets 13mpg on a good day, not pulling anything. I 5.3 swapped my 1990 GMC truck, slapped a turbo on it, and it gets 25mpg crusing at 80.
@@Edgar-and-Wrench It absolutely does. When I'm on cruise control, yes I made an aftermarket cruise control work on a drive by wire Holley ECU, I have averaged 26.3 mpg on a 3 hour drive on regular 93 octane. My second run on that distance was 25.9 which was not only uphill, but also a slight headwind. The drive back still had a little bit of 100 octane still mixed in.
I don’t think anything will last like the older ones but the newer v8s have lots of problems also hopefully this one doesn’t give me much trouble for a few years
That engine will never be as fuel efficient, reliable and durable as its foreign counterpart. Because of all the emissions EPA BS installed on it. Only deleting it will resolve these issues. However, you'll become a criminal if you do.
I don’t know what you’re referring too but this is a gas motor not a diesel I could easily delete it by driving to a bad neighborhood and let them steal the cat off it and unplug the egr valve More importantly the max mileage this motor could get is illegal due to lean burn being outlawed
@@DrRust unfortunately all current deisels sold in the US are not as reliable, efficient and durable as they could be because of the EPA. That's why pre EPA emissions deisel are holding their value and people are holding on to them. Those old engines are being rebiult at a hight rate.
I have sn 7897 but it has been assembled from several different tractors I belive the motor is out of a 45 or 47 the o and q look real similar and the front bolster is the later casting
@@DrRust didnt seem to work. mine is the ser. num. 8371 I switched user accounts. my tractor literally has every difference you point out in your video including the spacer behind the light bar. I was told the manifold was different with the distillate and needed to be changed when switching to gas only. But you would know more about that than I would
Thanks for this. I have been playing whackamole on my tractor that was running fine but shut off while I was brush hogging. Replacing the ignition got it running twice. I did that because the headlights not working made me think it must be the ignition. Then I replace the igniton again which worked twice again. Traced the power and found the aftermarket Ammeter (I assume installed when the prior owner switched from a generator to an alternator). Bypassing the ammeter got it to turn over again but its not starting. From your video I took the coil cable off the distributor and I am not seeing a spark. Took the coil out and I'm getting no ohm reading or continuity so I ordered a new coil. Hopefully tomorrow I can finally get the tractor going again.
How does your brakes work on this one? I have one with the 3 bolt disk on it like yours. Mine are worn out , and the replacement disk are over $100⁰⁰ each. So that's over $400⁰⁰ to redo them.
This one only had a disc on the left side for some reason and I didn’t notice it until after I sold it lol but both worked well you couldn’t tell a difference other than the band needed adjusting on the right side
THANK-YOU! Excellent... saved me a lot of grief... I appreciate your information. BTW- My '41 M starter has only two bolts. I followed the same process...loosened both bolts enough to move the starter back 3/4-inch, shook it around, re installed the starter, and Voila'! Perfect. Now I can spread the manure.
If you want to keep your tractor original then put in a second 6V battery and a starting relay. One battery to run the ignition system and the other for starting. Remember that the starting battery will drop down to around 4v especially when cold. The ignition battery stays at 6V and gives a good spark. A spark booster could also be added for starting. This is why 7V coils and starting resistors were fitted to 12V systems in cars.
