Hi Chris. Thank you so much for all this excellent information. I'm having a very hard time finding anyone explain how to input vaulted ceilings into the various manual J software. Is it as simple as figuring out the equivalent air volume as if the ceiling was flat and inputting that calculated ceiling height? And then inputting the actual ceiling square footage which will be greater than the floor square footage? Also, is there a better way on placement of registers on such ceilings - like one at the very top and one lower closer to the wall, rather than just having one at the lower location? If you could help by sharing your thoughts, that would be so helpful and appreciated.

Awesome video. I had a new ac installed a couple summers ago, and unfortunatly, just installed the same size, which is a 3 ton. I could probably of gone with a 2.5 ton instead, since I have done a ton of energy upgrades since the house was first built (I am not the original owner). I could say a lot, but my way around this is to have a temp threshhold of 1.4 degrees more than my set point, so then it gets long run times, The wife doesnt notice and the humidty goes down since the run times are longer. Plus with an Ecobee and all my sensors, I only use the sensors in the warm parts of the house. Is it perfect, no. But with HVAC there is no perfect, since every house and area are different. Even having more family members in a house can make a difference on your cooling, or a young family compared to empty nesters. I range from 40-50% most of the time, so I must be doing something right

Hi, thank you for the informative video. You mentioned at 3:54 that when having an ancillary dehumidifier, we can use Option B (+15,000 BTU/H) for anywhere in the United States. Is this still the case in 2024? I'm referencing Manual S Second Edition 1.00 2014, and see that to use option B there are 3 requirements that need to be met: 1. The dehumidifier shall be part of an engineered System. 2. The local degree day ratio shall be 2.0 or more. 3. The AHJ does not provide different Guidance. With those conditions, would it mean that only Nothern parts of the states would be able to use condition B?

Very insightful post, thanks for sharing!

What’s decent humidity inside when temps or in the 90s outside

What in hell made you think adding background music would make it better? Was too annoying

HI, are you avaible for a consulatation? You're website won't let me book an appointment with you. Please advise.

Are you available for paid consultation?

Phenomenal, I have never seen a HVAC explained so well and organized like yourself. Hats off to you my man.. you got this down to a science. I sure wished you lived in New York. I have a 1400 ft² house they installed a Rheem 2 ton unit, when really hot doesn't cycle runs constantly.... when cooler runs normal. Think I should have had a two and a half ton what do you think. Thank you in advance and I love you videos

Good stuff! That bit about airflow being allowed to pass through the entire filter is definitely something automakers could be paying more attention to with engine air filters. I'm glad my house unit at least has that in mind, since it has a 4-inch-deep MERV 13 filter that looks like it takes a lot of effort to push air through.

If you dont have that 10 inch min when you use a 45degree taper on the 1-D, should you stick with stabbing into plenum to preserve 10 in height, or go with taper and sacrifice soem of theta height to below 10 inches ?>

Hi Chris, excellent job with these videos. I’m learning a lot, you’re a great teacher! I have a question for you. I recently had new construction built for me and the Manuel J included a Carrier brand system and specs for the report, which is what the Manuel S also included or recommended. But my builder installed a Comfort Aire handler and Rheem condensers. The builders choice of equipment was not included on the Manuel J or S, is this problematic? I am having issues with my upstairs system. It’s running consistently on warmer days and has very poor air flow compared to the downstairs system which is .5 tons larger. I’m thinking they undersized the upstairs unit but I’m a novice with a Manuel J report trying to find the problem. Any advice would be appreciated, and thank you for taking the time to make these informative videos!

Useful video...but turn down/off the music.

The biggest problem with testing and balancing, after everything is said and done it’s generally a waste of money. I used to do HVAC work and worked for a testing and balancing company. After a while, I realized all I was doing was just pi$$ing in the wind! We would go in to a building (sometimes a brand new building) and set everything up to the engineering specifications only to come back and check everything a few months later and see that the customers had completely readjusted everything we did! Some customers would complain they were too cold, others would gripe they were too hot and what would they do? Go in and tinker with the settings, dampers, shut off valves, etc. causing everything to run in efficiently in the process. Of course, the video you have here is good and very informative and I don’t mean to gloss over nor kick what you do to the curb but it’s a lot of money wasted to go through all the hullabaloo of setting something up to come back and have somebody screw it up again!

really nice! I need to watch again for the last point. thank you so much!

The music is louder than the speech. Not suitable for a tecgnical presentation. Would have been OK for an elevator lobby. Could not listen to the end.

Flat rate or fail

TRUE

Do you want me to hear the music or do you want me to hear you talk lol😅 I appreciate the information

If I have a return air in my wall and with no ducts leading like literally just a return vent and then you see the inside of my walls. Why? My house was built in 1988.

Lost a chromosome

Amazing, yet in the wild I yet to see all of this being followed. The combination of making money, time vs speed and the unique challenge of each house... ducting

What are you suppose to do when the AH is in the worst spot of a U shaped house so you have to go two directions from the plenum

Duct velocity and grille/registers velocity are 2 different things.

Should I go by AF or diluted?

how do you get that latent heat. thank you sir..

This is really excellent, thanks so much for doing this. Learned a ton (no pun intended)

Background music irritating

Thank for sharing this skill.

dude, you need to fix your audio sync and reupload. i'm sure your information is accurate and very helpful, but i can't watch that out of sync mess. and that background music...just unnecessary. if you're going to be a content creator, you need to know what you're doing. or hire somebody who does.

How do I know the maximum airflow, CFM, that can be handled by some 6” flex duct I have in my attic, if I put in a booster fan to be able to increase aire flow at certain times? The duct says 4000 FPM maximum, it’s 6” duct and I’ve got about 15’ of duct run before the booster fan and then 15’ after the fan to the vent? At top speed the fan says it is 400 CFM. I don’t want to damage the duct work. Thanks in advance for any help on this.

My central AC is 15 years old. My oil fired water baseboard is close to 25 years old. I am being proactive looking into a heatpump system for the near to intermediate future. I have had several people come in, but all I get is either 'use your current AC ducting' with a new heat pump or 'here's our recommendation for a split system.' The one reasonable exception was a recommendation for my current flex to be replaced by a tin/hard ducted system. But NO ONE does an analysis as you suggested. Can you recommend anyone in my area, even if I pay for an analysis & system recommendation from an expert 'heat pump consultant? Please attach any disclaimer on your end. Thanks! Rob --- Westchester County NY 10598

Thanks 👍

Great video! I don't know why 9 out of 10 guys say my existing AC duct work would be fine for heat pump. QUESTION Should the placement of ceiling grills/registers be changed when switching from AC only to a heat pump? Thanks!

New to me

I'm a homeowner looking at air sealing my house. 2005 construction, terrible sealing to start, poor/mediocre insulation. Min spec basically. I am sealing it up and my goal is to bring it up to at or under 5 ACH50 if I can. What's the best method for me to incorporate ventilation if I get to the point of needing it? I have upstairs and downstairs independent units. I could see connecting to the supply and return air trunks with an HRV/ERV, but beyond that it would get challenging to distribute it independently of the main trunk and feeds. Thanks! Cool stuff!

I have two supply ducks in my home theater and realize I need to add a event to relieve the static pressure buildup - so it technically won’t be a return - but I will add a baffle box with a vent that recycles the air close to the return outside of the room. My question is this, is it OK to put The exit vent on my knee wall instead of the ceiling? I live in the south, so I definitely want heat to leave the room.

Thanks! Great video and appreciate some of the calcs shared

How far away should a wye connect be from the plentum

Sure, just pay another $5000 or so whether you need it or not. Contractor is too lazy to do a proper air flow measurement.

This channel has provided me with the most concise and useful information yet in HVAC design. I worked installs for a couple years and am currently in the pre-planning phase of designing the central air system for my new house. I will be using many of the tools mentioned for verification and the relevant ACCA 8th edition manuals which I am buying.

MWSS 271, Cherry Point!

USMC Veteran!!

Chris please show photos of these fittingd

What is a easy way to find the newest equipment for comfort?

Me, who knows nothing about HVAC: Yup sounds right

Funny the takeoffs have no option for a horizontal unit in an attic with a square to round on the end.

👍

What the hell is a D.O.E.? A D.E.E.R.? A female D.E.E.R.?

talk too much no presentation illustration