RoofPro is a fully licensed, insured, and certified Maryland roofing company. When Tim Taylor founded RoofPro™ in 2003, he set out to create a roofing company that stood apart from the pack. It's not uncommon for homeowners to discover that roofing work hasn't been done properly by other roofing companies. By contrast, RoofPro™ has built its quality reputation by handling each roofing repair or replacement project with the highest level of craftsmanship, simply doing it right the first time. This trustworthiness is one reason why more and more insurance companies, realtors, property managers, companies, and homeowners send referrals to RoofPro™.
Watch highlights of our certified crew tackling jobs all year long. Our expert General Manager, Stephen Taylor walks you through the most important roofing details to notice as a consumer. These videos will make you feel confident in your roofing decision. Your project manager will send you photos after to see the improvement.
6 years later and i'm the first one to like or comment! I'm trying to learn everything i need to know to SELL Roofs. I know NOTHING about them right now.
Ohagin low profile vents, im using 1 for intake placed at lower part of roof , and 1 for exhaust on the top by the ridge. My question: should i place the intake where i get the wind blowing that way intake sucks all the air in, should i place exhaust opposite side of roof? Or should both be on same side? If same side wouldnt the air blow into the exhaust vent ?
@sergiocampos9371 Its ok to have the vents on the same slope, both intake and exhaust. It works based on hot air rising, not so much from the wind blowing. Ideally you would have intake vents on all slopes of the roof. You just need to make sure that the intake vent has more square inches of intake then you have for the exhaust. Here's a good tool to figure it out www.owenscorning.com/en-us/roofing/components/vent-calculator
Felt paper has been in use for about 125 years and has performed exceptionally well when installed properly. I'm not convinced synthetic is better, in fact in hot dry climates, there is plenty of evidence to the contrary. Also a rip test is meaningless since a brand new roll will rip. Don't rip it and install flat on roof with plastic caps and its a non issue unless your entire roof blows off. The industry is pushing synthetic because each manufacter can produce and market their own and make extra profit. The enhanced warranty is mostly useless as well. I've been a roofer for 15 year and used a manufacter warranty once. One time. Nice upsell to the client tho that will never get any benefit.
Thank you. I’ve received three estimates to replace my roof and now I’m going to review those estimates/contracts with particular care with an eye towards specificity and consistency in product manufacturer requirements.
I understand the benefits of Ice and Water shield. I don't understand the benefit of synthetic underlayment. Underlayment is held in place by thousands of nails once the shingles are on, so it doesn't need to be rip proof. Felt can rip, but not often unless you don't know what you are doing. Even then, another piece over the rip is sufficient. Synthetic does nothing for the roof once the shingles are on. It is NOT "another line of defense." There are thousands of nail holes, none of which are sealed by the synthetic underlayment, and every hole will leak if there is water under the shingles, just like with felt, so there is no benefit. Furthermore, it is impermeable. That is not good. Any humidity in the attic will slowly seep through the decking and collect on the impermeable synthetic underlayment where it will proceed to break down the decking. Felt is permeable and will allow that moisture to escape. Lastly, the felt does dry out over time because the asphalt in the felt is absorbed by the shingles, extending their life. The life of asphalt shingles over synthetic underlayment is reduced by 20% because there is no reservoir of asphalt in the underlayment to feed the shingles as they dry out. So best to use a permeable underlayment that is asphalt based..
Hey, I got a question for you. My mom’s house in (northern Indiana) was built in 1974 and she’s getting estimates for a new rooftop and gutters and filters. She has boxes up there right now and my question is ,can she just stick with the boxes or should she switch to a ridge vent? All the quotes we’ve had I want to switch to a ridge vent . the new roofs, , including mine, here in Florida have ridges. Also, what kind of gutter guards and leaf filters do you recommend?
@42Kougar Technically, box vents can work, but ridge vents are the most efficient and the best way to make sure you get your entire attic vented. If you use box vents, you run the risk of not having enough exhaust and also creating "dead air" in the attic, that is, places where the air doesn't flow, leading to moisture buildup. Manufacturers require a specific amount of air intake and exhaust. Here is a link to a calculator to determine the right amount of both. As for the gutter guards, I would recommend an aluminum style because they can be screwed to the gutter, and squarrels won't be able to damage them. They are also better at withstanding high winds. BullDog is a brand we use often. bulldoggutterguard.com/ Hope this helps, let us know if you have any more questions.
I am trying to repair my flat roof. I have applied the adhesive to the roof. When I lay felt onto the adhesive do I have to peel off the thin plastic sheet from the felt first? Absolute beginner here😮😮.
It all depends, what type of product are you using? What's the exact product name? If you search the manufactures youtube, they typically have instructions on each product.
Surprised to hear a complaint on OC. I’ve installed them for 40 yrs. They are quality products. Especially the class 4. They are head and shoulders above competition. On other end of quality scale would certainly be the certainteed. I’ve had 4 roofs that our company installed in 2023 that were defective. All 4 were certainteed class 4. At least I will not have any defective CertainTeed in 2024 since I have installed my last one. Let’s see how a jury sees this one.
In Texas we sell a lot of class 4 shingles. Insurance will give about 23% discount for this roof. The average size roof costs about $2500 to upgrade it to class 4. Often in Texas they pay for themselves in about 18 months. This is Dallas market. Others may vary. The problem lies in companies like certainteed DO NOT KNOW HOW TO MAKE THIS SHINGLE. BEHIND THE SCENES THEY HAVE WORKED ON THIS FOR AT LEAST A YEAR. THEY ARE WORSE OFF NOW WITH ALL THEIR CHANGES. They deny all claims period. They make customers come after them legally. They are heartless and lawsuits will begin after first of year. I’ve been in business 40 years. In all that time I’ve not endured such poor quality on roof products. One thing I can do for free is tell everyone I see that if you use them I’m confident you will find yourself in same situation. Owens Corning, GAF has anything a quality roofer will want. All of these guys will have a failure about 2% of the time. Certainteed is much higher than that. Other than a costly lawsuit is only thing stopping most customers from holding them accountable. Certainteed knows that.
Owens Corning today said...they do not recommend install "near "40 degrees and not below that or that will void their warranty. IF near that they require shingle cement around all rakes...Not a roofer...just repeating plus they sent me their technical bulletin. My roofer does not seem to care, I DO...my house, my money...follow the manufacturer guidelines or do NOT put it on. NO leaks here, so I can wait for a warm up to avoid unrecommend installation. No brainer. Roofer wants the money, I want quality...I win. :)
Of course you can, it's just cold. But there are roof systems like hot tar and torch down witch is recommended 40° to install. If we roofers didn't work in winter we would starve.
8 месяцев назад
Maaannnn!!! I thank you for this explaining. I have a leak on what this roofer said is a dead valley area, and he made the repairs, but the job looks like crap. This roofer put this role type material (for flat roof), where i had architectural shingles, and it looks like crap. This repairs is so crappy, i want to scream. Is there anything that i can do to fix it, as it was before? Could i just now put the shingles over the "role" type flat roof material and paste it down or glue it down, just to get it looking not looking so crappy. Any advice will be appreciated.
If you had shingles in a dead valley, that was most likely the wrong application. You only want shingles on a 4/12 pitch or higher. Adhering shingles to a flat roof can just cause more issue down the road. Does it look bad because you don't like flat roof material in that area or did the roofer mess up?
Very helpful. In my search I saw several brands and each contractor vouched for the brand they were showing. I just happened to fall in love with the Terra Cotta by OC. Good to know it would be a good if not the best choice.
May I tell you. From a roofing contractor for almost 41 years, you absolutely made the right choice in shingles. It is a simple fact that this shingle is more attractive than others. Plus if you have a problem w a shingle, I would rather deal w OC. Companies like Certainteed have much higher failure rate. GAF is not much better. I had a large job last month where certainteed send us shingles from 5 different months. Every shingle from every month were highly defective. One month later I had another big job that was pre sold to have certainteed class 4. I spoke to supplier and certainteed making sure this dreadful problem had been corrected. Absolutely they promised me. Instead they send me shingles from same variety of months. All defective. Tuesday will be their third attempt to send me shingles that can even be used. It is expensive to have a crew on a job but then they can’t work or they have to cull thru shingle to find some you can use. Will turn a 1.50 day job into a 4 day job. Profit will be less than zero
Please define "winter"....what temp minimum does OC shingles require to meet warranty? Since I didn't even see your breath on this vid I suspect the temp was over 35F or so. That might be winter in some areas of the country, but not in S.E. Wisconsin.
Oh by the way , your supposed to clean the ridge vents once a year. All that dust and fiberglass in your attic is going into the vents also further restricting the air flow. And what about when there’s not enough ridges to handle the needed amount of ridge vents? How come nobody talks about the calculation of the size of attic vs the required number of ridge vents
Ridge vents do not work. Plain and simple. After 31 years of doing HVAC work, I promise you, they don’t work. They sound like they should be able to do a great job but in reality, they don’t. They even look good on computer models. It just doesn’t happen in reality. How many houses have you gone back to and checked the temperature in the attic??? You know check it all through out the attic, stay up there for about 10-15 minutes. Then tell me how good they work. Bottom line is they don’t work. But roofers won’t install power ventilators because they aren’t allowed to hook up the electrical connections due to the insurance companies. And please don’t say that the motors burn up. That happens when nobody sets the thermostat to 105* and never oils the motor!!!
It works when you wind, attic cooled after quicker than my house here in October Florida, now summer months that's a different story unless we get afternoon storms
I think you are right. Ridge vents are not a good answer by themselves.. They cause more problems than they fix. Perhaps a ridge vent with also a "Ridge Guard" or "Peak Protector" covering, or gable 😅end vents with excellent screening and flat roof or screened turbine roof vents in middle or with screened gable end vents with attic fans?
We have only 2 powered gable end fans and of course, the whole lower part of roof is outfitted with soffits.. problem is the fans going out and bearings seizing up, requiring the attic crawl, usually in the peak heat of summer.... I hate having to do it and was considering a passive means of venting to get around it.. not a fan of ridges as I question their reliability, they will start to clog up reducing flow and the potentials of installation errors... what about turbines or Ohagen vents? or using them with the power gable fans as additional venting? I'd like to see a Reduction in attic temps ideally.
OC duration seems the best for conventional oxidized asphalt shingles. But you can get Malarkey Vista AR polymer modified shingles for about the same price and they are superior in asphalt quality, granule adhesion, and they are class 4 impact rated.
I have a 13 year old OC Duration shingle roof in SW, Florida. Two hurricanes, the last being a direct hit from Ian, and not a single shingle was damaged. A spectacular result given that all the roofs around me, including metal roofs, were severely damaged. As for algae protection, very little. I already had to clean my roof once and will have to do it again next year. Another thing is granule loss. It seems excessive to me. The shingle says that it will last 30 years. However, certainly not in the SW, Florida heat and weather. So, the real question is, would I pick Owen Corning shingles again? Yes, I would use no other shingle than OC.
Gaf company has admitted a synthetic felt paper will take 20% of the life away on your roof. Roofers love the synthetic because it’s so light and easier to install
Yep, with 39 years doing roofing I can definitely tell you that aluminum vent a ridge is the way to go with any shingle roof what you do is put a bead of caulking on either side and then use metal siding screws with the rubber washers every 16 inches. Mostly the cap shingles are very bad because guys do it incorrectly they use nail guns to apply resulting in blow threw the caps in hot or cold days,resulting in caps are smashed down to roof leaving only an 1/4 inch of air flow and holes in the caps! I will put up 1000.00 bucks to prove me wrong in a high wind situation. I've replaced tons of cobra vent blow offs.their junk! Prove me wrong and you will lose every time!
Those singles are something you call seconds and were manufactured wrong at the factory, and they don't just throw them away they sell them for cheap/less (BEWARE). Any good contractor/roofer would see this and have the roofing supplier exchange them before they are applied to a home. AND A GUY WITH NO TAN AND TALKING ABOUT ROOFONG SPEAK FOR IT'S SELF. if you even put one roof on you would have a tan. not a pro.
Gotta question a dude who calls himself a "RoofPro", then makes a video titled how to replace shingles at the peak and then proceeds to not even discuss the peak shingles in an under a minute video.
