Annoyingly enough, I cannot find a source for new replacement 26843975 start switches like you have there, and I have 900 washer/dryer units that use them...I keep the occasional fails going by filing contact points fml. If you know of a supplier that would be great! :-)
My dryer still runs after turning off if we use the 20 min cycle. We think we have narrowed it down to this cycle only. But one day it was off and suddenly I heard it come on by itself so we removed the lightbulb inside and just leave the door open all the time. It’s no big deal where the dryer is because we are the only one that sees it. My dryer & washer are both 10 yrs old now. Hated them at first but now we know how to tweak & use the cycles. I love the presetting the wash time to early and waking up to an already washed load ready for the dryer.
Thanks for the video! I was a bit baffled by the sealed PCB and you gave me hope. 2 questions: Any recommended options other than the hot knife? And since my new to me dryer is only a couple of years old and this motor start relay seems to be a common problem, can I get a better relay? Mine is 891P-1A-F-C. But why replace what seems to be a shoddy relay with a shoddy relay? Any other brands with the same specs/size that you could recommend?
if it's only one led not working ,, you can either put a "500mw"<your number"- resister to replace it, or just jump across it"short it", and the other leds will just be a slight bit brighter with that extra 3 volts they all get to share on. that's what some of the tv repair guys do. i snagged the main board on sale, and was trying to repurpose it for somthing else, didn't realize it was a 3 part ordeal, i might have fried the leds out putting 110 volts to it without any "dummy load",, they all have little black spots on them now. opps.
I have a 2015 Samsung side-by-side refrigerator. The icemaker is junk. The water supply is junk. They should they shouldn’t even be on the market mad. I’m mad mad.
So how long should this model last? We've had ours for 12 years and the problem with the ice build up under the drawer is just starting. Should I buy a new Fridge or try the fix in the video?
This is extremely stupid and not a permanent fix. The ice comes from either a shorted defrost sensor, faulty heater, stuck relay, clogged drain or hot air infiltration. Most common cause is hot air entering through the doors/french assembly not sealing properly or cracks in the liner. This heater will cause the liner to crack and additional hot air infiltration will happen exacerbating the issue. You're not smarter than the Samsung engineers. I am a certified Samsung technician.
Bro you're such a god for the diagram. Do you know if the wires that came out the ACDC board go all the way to the other boards? I'm asking cause I made a LED board since I live out the states and I was wondering if I put the 12v to the wires that goes to the freezer board so the freezer board light up.
Thank you very much for this explanation. In my case only SMD LEDs are bad. Do you know the type of the LEDs. Where to order them? Thank you for your help
Every time it heats up all I can smell is burnt plastic. I have taken the cover off and it's burnt the plastic around the fan and the foam on the back of the cover. What do yo8 recommend for this?
Thank you for your video. I have this issue with my Samsung French Door (code: RF24FSEDBSR). I am based in the UK. (1) Will this kit work in the UK (where the standard voltage is higher than the US - 230V v 120V)? (2) Has any in the UK been able to find a technician willing to fit a part which is not "Samsung approved" to their fridge? Those I have spoken to are worried about the liability and I am struggling to find anyone; (3) Has Samsung produced its own kit which would make it easier for me to persuade a technician to fix the part? If I cannot find anyone i will have a go myself. The refusal of SAMSUNG to admit that their products have this inherent design flaw and/or to correct it is bewildering. For around a decade, it has been public knowledge and, despite a class action law suit being brought in the USA, they continue to sell fridges with the same issue. I will never buy another SAMSUNG product of any kind ever again.
Hi great info , I am having a issue with my dryer it will turn on run but shut off like it's getting to.hot,, there is also a gas smell when opening the dryer door.. any ideas
If the drum just stops turning mid cycle, the motor typically overheats, then you have to wait and after 5 minutes or so, you can restart it. For a gas smell, if the gas valve is leaking, you can get a gas smell when the dryer is not working. Both are pretty expensive issues.
I've had to do this twice now on my Bosch fridge. I have a very small soldering iron and have experienced the problems of removing the small caps without the specialist tools .i did lift a couple of pads but not fatally . I found that using desoldering braid in small steps made it easier but without doubt the easiest way to remove the caps is to carefully twist them off . I read @steveliddycoat3111 's post and it gave me the courage to try it so thanks to him. Being careful not to pull up at all a couple twists less than 30 degrees each way and the pins break off either at the pad or the cap with no damage whatsoever to the pads. My inverter is 10+ years old so I cant guarantee the same results on newer components but this saves a huge amount of aggro. I suspect this is a commonplace technique for those in the industry so if there's anyone out there who does this on a regular basis please chime in.
Installed this several weeks ago and the ice build up returned. I forced the defrost mode and it doesn't warm up at all. Any ideas on what's causing that?
Insulation on the added heater is too thick to fit in the connector, that's why you have to strip the wire. You don't have to on the defrost heater wire cause the insulation is thinner.
Hi, There is another video on you tube that claims this problem was fixed long term by using spray closed cell foam to cover the refridgerant tubing leading to the evaporator. Doing this blocks moist air from coming in contact with the cold tubing and the foams insulting properties keep the exterior of the foam above the freezing point of water. Any comments / thoughts on this approach? Pete
More than one way to skin a cat. I have only used the method I posted, about 4 years now and have had good results. I would say it's over 95% successful, with only those that have a serious sealed system failure, like a restriction or inefficient compressor, that this heater can't overcome. I know of other techs that use the heater method and have reported their techs doing thousands with very good results as well. I have not tried the method described, but I am familiar with the method. I see no reason to change my approach.
Thanks for share this information. I have a Whirlpool double electric wall oven, the model of the display is WPW10438750 that the display is not turning on, just is doing a sound like a beep with I push the start button. it could be the capacitors that are damaged? thanks for your attention and support.
You can try the capacitors, it may be the cause. Look for bad soldering contacts at the connectors (plugs) all around the board. If that doesn't work, send it in for repair, it's usually about $150 for refurbishing. I use FixYourBoard in the case that a board is too difficult to repair in the field.
if you are talking about the 'signal' input that goes to the optocoupler, I set up a circuit to gun it off the main 120vac 60hz input line using resistors and a diode. I have a video on my channel about the circuit design.
Such a great explanation. Thank you for helping me. I have come to understand that the “Non Serviceable Switch” attached to the motor is indeed “Serviceable”. I was able to clean the contacts without scratching the plating off. Put it back together and she fired right up! I am sure that sometimes the contacts can fuse together, but they are just dirty, try cleaning them up. (After having taken picks of how it is wired) I would also label the Start and Run wires if they are not color coded. Mine were just bare copper and not labeled.
Hi, maybe you would know why SV225 hoked with 87V, when measuring live circuit, trigger my RCPD (residual current protection) whenever I touch ground or neutral. Now issue when measure de-energized circuit.
@@electronicsprojects4708 Im sorry English is not my native language. I just would say that when I use fluke87V with SV225 on live circuit (230V in Europe) and measure L + N or L + PE (ground). It trigger my RPD. Just wonder if it can be even used if there is RPD protector in house.
@@akiraone28 It should not trip the protection if you use it between L1 and L2, if you have a Ground Fault Circuit, it will trip if you use Ground in the USA, not sure about Europe, though.
Thanks so much for this solution. I was getting tired of manually defrosting the fridge every 2 months to get rid of ice buildup and noisy evaporator fan that was hitting the ice. I almost ordered a new fridge then saw your video. I ordered from Amazon Canada the Supco series sh201 15 watts braided aluminum heater because it was longer & covered all the unheated coils at the top. I also ordered from Amazon the high temp zip ties. I has been over 5 months now of trouble free operation. Thanks again.
Hey there, I was wondering if you could help me with a problem. I used this video as a guide to try to troubleshoot an old fridge (GE profile, 2007 I believe) that gave out around 5-6 years ago. It seems like the compressor won’t turn on, but after some snooping it seemed the inverter board may have been the issue. Like you did, I removed the SMDs and replaced them with new capacitors, and I did have a few of them test wonky, so I thought I was on the right track. Unfortunately, when I tried putting the inverter back into the fridge, it didn’t work. I get a short, loud buzzing noise (which seems to be coming from the inverter board itself, yikes) when I plug it in, which lasts for a few seconds. Other than that, the only noticeable change is that there is a soft gurgling sound that sometimes persists for a few minutes but eventually goes quiet. This gurgling noise would happen a bit before the capacitor replacement, but it seems louder now that there are fresh caps on the inverter board. Now it seems as through the itself compressor is malfunctioning, plus my added worry I may have broken else something when I repaired the inverter. When I tested it in the fridge, the inverter was getting the right inputs (120 vac and 5 v pdc at 50-60 Hz). Still, no vibration or noise from the compressor at all. The compressor tested fine electrically, but I’m having trouble finding tips on how to determine if the compressor is seized up or if the inverter may still be malfunctioning. I also wanted to try building your tester circuit, but it seems useless when I know that the inverter is getting power fine in the fridge. Are there any ways I could try to safety jumpstart this compressor and maybe ‘knock it loose’, so to speak?
I have never found a bad compressor cause an inverter to fail. With a short on the board, that can cause other parts on the board to fail, also, I have seen many different types of failures on these boards down to ant sized smd capacitors, so helping by proxy would not do you much good. My recommendation for your situation is to replace the inverter, maybe find a good used one on EBay if you don't want to spend a lot of money.
@@electronicsprojects4708 thank you very much for your insight. I think I see your point, and that’s probably the best advice I could’ve asked for. It makes a lot of sense that the board itself might have more faults than just those capacitors. With how sensitive they are, I imagine that sequential failures between connected components can be common. I wish I had enough skill to have tested it more thoroughly, but I hoped that perhaps replacing the capacitors would get the job done. Since that wasn’t enough, I had already started to figure that the work it would take to make sure the board was working properly wasn’t worth it when I could just buy another. I’ve seen some online for between $100-$200, which is still a lot less than a new fridge. I knew going into this that if was a bad compressor, repair wouldn’t be worth it, which is why I started with the inverter. The motherboard was sending it the proper power and control signal , but the compressor still wouldn’t come on, so I’ve been holding out hope that it is the inverter and not the compressor. However, knowing a bit about how important those caps are for the functionality of this board, and that the majority of the ones I pulled off tested bad, it, I should’ve given up after replacing them didn’t work, but I thought it was worth seeing if you might have any other tricks up your sleeve. It’s alright, I knew it was a Hail Mary. I’m a total novice, but I had a bad feeling the circuit had other issues. One of the caps I replaced (one of the little 33 microFarad ones) tested at over 330 microFarads. After replacing it with a brand new 33 mF cap and testing the board, I found that the new cap I had installed was now reading at ten times it’s ratings as well. I’m certainly not well versed enough to guess at what that might mean, but I’m pretty sure erratic behavior like that in this circuit is, uh, bad. Do you have any notions on what happened there? I really appreciate your input on this, and I think I will follow your recommendation and see if a different board solves the issue. Thank you for saving me the headache of trying to wish a dead hunk of silicon back to life. I did have one more question regarding what you said, about it being unlikely that the compressor failed first, causing the inverter to fail. What about the reverse situation? If the inverter was indeed what caused the problem, can you give me any odds on if it could have subsequently damaged the compressor? Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and expertise to help me with this project! You’ve been a great resource and inspiration draw on to try to tackle this on my own. I truly would not have gotten this far without that, and this makes you awesome in my book!
How hard was it to do this ? Man I can’t take it anymore with Samsung I spent over 2500 on the fold 4 with accessory’s only for the screen to break because of this heat when I opened it in a cold room
This video is for appliance repair technicians, I don't recommend for diy'ers to attempt it. For some it may be fairly simple, for others, it may be difficult, it depends on how much experience you have as a tech.
How hard was it to do this ? Man I can’t take it anymore with Samsung I spent over 2500 on the fold 4 with accessory’s only for the screen to break because of this heat when I opened it in a cold room
