those string bridges look really cool. but how much weight do they add? I've always tried to minimize the amount of weight on the tips because i heard that is what affects arrow speed the most. But I wonder if that would be offset by the extra tension created by those.
You are correct. Tip weight has a lot to do with arrow speed, and I normally minimize it as much as possible. This bow is a copy of a bow which was crafted and sold beginning around 1938 by Nels Grumley who worked for Fred Bear. You probably read this in my comments. I didn’t record the arrow speed, but it’s surprisingly fast, with no noticeable hand shock. This bow was my third Deerslayer. The first two sold. I still have number 3. Thanks for your comment
My budget is 200$. It's going to take some more saving. Maybe by September I will have enough for 38 to 45lb. Bow. Wanting longbow with low hand shock. Thank you
I am curious, have you ever tried a slightly watered down warm titebond 3 bath that the sinew could be soaked in and then just squeeze the excess out before applying to the bow? It might save some effort in the embedding process. You may have already tried it and moved on I was just curious. The backing process is almost witchcraft to me. lol
Oh hey, I wanted to tell you also and a couple of these bows. I did where I overshot my weight a little bit because I go too fast all the time I just slowly layer on thin layers of sinew and check it each day for tiller and weight until I have it where I want it and you know each layer you add just adds performance anyway have a good day. I’m working on my deer slayer today, but all I have is Ironwood got my brush Knox on yesterday.
That gator paper is great stuff. It's so durable that I probably take a wire brush to each piece several dozen times to unclog it before it's starting to wear out completely. It does slow down as the grit wears a tiny bit,, but because it is tough and wet dry you can use a little water and a brush to clean it out and it will pretty much go forever. The real hard ceramic stuff anyway.
I live in Comanche Texas, in Comanche county. I'm a history nut and recently retired. I have metal detected for 40 yrs and my favorite places are camps along the remnants of the military trail. Access is about gone since the ultra wealthy Californians have moved in and bought everything up.Glad I found u, I subbed.
Hey brother it’s 2024. We can build primitive bows with modern tools youras old is my dad or a bit older. I would expect you to do no different. Make the bow with any means necessary the easier the better just imagine if you could just think about it and it happened heck with those guys they probably never made one bow I break a lot made 50 since Christmas about 12 real good ones and I still have some hatchet work and draw knife left in me but I like my belt sander and I’m getting a bandsaw right directly
You know, I wondered what the heck I was gonna do with all these knotty black locust staves I got a bunch and only if you were good straight, not twisted no branches, the rest was everything else but after seeing a few of your bows with the holes do the limbs I had to make a few and now that’s all people are interested in not whole bows. Awesome man I love this stuff.
I never can wait 24 hours thank God tight bond drives fast well hey I’ve been putting a little strip of parchment paper over my Senu before I tape it and it’s another thing but it works decent. Lotta times I don’t even wrap it. I just sit there and keep Pat in it down till the glue is pretty much dry. I just get tired of fighting those wrapping’s and my results are pretty much the same anyway, thanks for sharing brother. Have a good day.
@@goldenwoodbows1187 no question brother, and like you said that helps keep its reflex and everything after I broke about 20 bowls I put seeing you on every single one now just about if I didn’t send you with some fiberglass cloth or I mean anything I just did Ironwood recurve and had a pristine back on it and I’ve been dickin around with it for a while because I go to fast and make mistakes and I got to set stuff side and go back to it the next day or whatever and this one is 95% tailored and it left a big giant splinter and my first instinct was I just filled it with CA glue and pushed it back down I didn’t want to bend it and unstring it and thend again to open it didn’t know what to do I just, but it worked out and then I backed it with the cloth but you never know so if you got to seeing you pound for pound, that’s the best backing in the world still after thousands of years, but sorry for the long message man thanks for the knowledge
Also, I’m kind of poor so I usually shred my send you up down to find strands and then lay it out and layers so I can stretch it farther. I can do a whole bowl with half as much send you that way it’s just a little bit more tediousand then by the time we do three or four, then it’s a stick like yours is but I don’t go through it as fast that way seems like I don’t know
Stuff can be tedious to work with but always worth it in the end i’ve been using tape on to because the place I usually get my glue didn’t have a gallon of three and one thing I like about it. It drives a little bit faster so you’re waiting time is cut down on your glue there I don’t know try it out. See if you like it, the end result is about the same anyway, have a good night man
Hey Mr. Shaddick first just want to say thanks for sharing the knowledge and now I put tight bond three and sinew on everything I just did a black locust bowl with tight bond3 and sinew on the back and then I put rawhide over it with EA 40 the past meets the future lol anywhere take care young man just wanted to say thanks
I do the same thing, I’ve been making bow For about 10 years and every time I make one seems like I do things different. Ha ha, I really enjoy your videos. Keep them coming.
