I got one last year that I used to build Chris Schwarz’s Anarchist Tool Chest. I love that plane. That tool chest could make a great series of videos with the hand tools you’ve put together.
Oooooo that card scraper I need one of those.. I use a lot of grizzly I’ve never seen anyone who used that open end sander? Is it a drum ? I could google it of course I tend to like the their opinion have a good carpenter
Hi David, I think what you may be referring to is actually a Grizzly bench top planer since I don't have a sander - I'm looking at the segment at 0:18 into the video. Let me know if that is what you're referring to - thanks for the comment! Dennis
That’s the most beautiful piece you’ve made on your channel to date. I have at least 3 more years to work before I can retire and afford the time to take classes like that. I’m jealous.
Thanks for the feedback Ethan - that made my day!! I've had an opportunity to take a few classes this year by Frank Strazza and Garrett Hack, all focusing primarily on hand tools and I'm finally starting to incorporate more hand tool work in my projects which I really enjoy. BTW, the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship is an outstanding school. Others that I've been to that I'd recommend checking out are the Connecticut Vally School of Woodworking in Manchester CT and Epic Woodworking in New Hampshire run by Tom McLaughlin (youtube channel - EpicWoodworking) - Thanks again! Dennis
I have had the same saw for about three years and very happy with it. I’m certainly no expert wood worker but the saw has worked well so far. Great review and I just subscribed to!
Thanks for the comment Johnny - much appreciated! I’ve since bought some other Bauer tools for home remodeling and no complaints with those either - Dennis
Great teaching video! Our 20 yr old bays boards are rotten. I am going to use the pvc board like you and then I will not have to put up new vinyl siding. Thank you! I have been up since 3am thinking about this window. It is hard to find a handyman lately. No appliance men either! I get water leaking into the bottom of the 3yr old freezer of the fridge. RU-vid says it is clogged. No appliance repair. Probably have to buy a new fridge! 53yr old little lady is going to fix the bay window! I will get a $25 midas saw for great angles. Thanks again!
Thank you for the detailed and informative review. It would be interesting to know the distance from the miter gauge slots to the blade, which seems to differ.
Hi, I purchased the moulding at a lumber yard and it's considered a 'panel moulding' which is a very broad title for a range of products. Here is a link to a product that most closely resembles the product I purchased www.gardenstatelumber.com/mouldings/8412-panel-moulding/ Although I didn't purchase it here, it looks like this company is a distributor, it most closely resembles the look and dimensions of the moulding I used. But you can use their search engine to view other panel moulding styles and dimensions as well. Hope this helps. - Dennis
I purchased a similar inset vise from Veritas five years ago and found it didn't work correctly -- the jaw in the vise would lift up as it was tightened. So, I removed it and got the HNT Gordon tail vise which is far, far better. I've had no issues whatsoever with the HNT Gordon vise. This is a very well made vise that should last at least a couple lifetimes. I'm sure you will enjoy yours.
Thanks. I built a similar outside table using your video as inspiration, hand tools and reclaimed pallet planks. I had the same problem with pocket screws 🤷♂️ annoying. I dowelled and glued everything, because I didn't want visible screws 😉 only the lower shelf is nailed on to the carrying slats. 👍 Nice work, thanks!
Don’t know how I missed this video when it came out but found it tonight. Great job as always. I see that you picked up what looks like a Lie Nielsen No. 7. I’ve been kicking around the idea of adding that to my collection. Do you find it substantially better than the No. 5 for a project like this?
Hey Ethan! It's actually a #8 and I do like it for jointing longer boards, like the sides in this project, and flattening larger panels when needed. I also use it with my shooting board. The overall weight, with a sharp blade, just powers thru material. That said, did I absolutely need it for this project .... hmmm, probably not .... If I just had a #5, which is probably my favorite plane, I think I would have been just fine but a #7 or #8 is definitely a nice to have and I use my #8 quite a bit. As far as purchasing a #7 vs a #8 - I think the #7 is a good choice. There is not much of a difference in length and weight between the two and the #7 is LN best selling jointer plane. Also, the #7 has a blade with of 2-3/8" and that means it's compatible with the LN 4-1/2", 5-1/2", and 6". The blade width of the #8 is larger and not compatible with others. As always, thanks for the comment and happy woodworking!
I have a Bosch 12" sliding compound miter saw, which is phenomenal but its extremely large and heavy. I am going to pick up the Bauer 7.25" sliding compound miter, which is the 20V variant. I can get it on sale right now for $142. I already have some batteries, and I'll have to buy a blade. I think it will be a great addition when I just need to grab something and go to a different spot than my shop where my huge Bosch is. Thanks for the review. Yours is obviously 10" and runs on 110VAC, but I think the build quality and accuracy will be similar to the one I'm getting.
Super rare you’d need a tongue and groove on end grain but it works fine. Easier to cut end grain with a power router. Again, very few situations where you’d need that. Maybe if you were scabbing material together for an unseen cabinet back. Could see it happening if you had something complicated and got stuck having to do it. One in a thousand tongue and groove.
Thanks Dennis. Well done. I agree with you. Sometimes buying to a quality standard is important and sometimes it is not. In the case of set up blocks, it is not. If you rip a piece of wood to 4” and measure it with a dial caliper, then come back and measure it again a few hours later, it will be different. Even a Mitutoyo or Starrett dial caliper is only accurate to .001. All that said, many of us do woodworking for the pleasure of it as well as the practicality. So I understand when the value proposition is measured in joy and not dollars. If you find joy in using a tool that offers no or minimal improvement in quality, at 2 or 3 times the price but you love it in your hand and smile a little when you use it, I say it was worth every dollar.
Dennis - thank you VERY MUCH for the plain-speak, sensible research you did and for sharing your results. Thank you also for differentiating the needs of a machinist from a woodworker (I fall into the latter group). Your video was a great help in making my decision.
Newbie here; making my first cabinet with the help of a cabinetmaker. Your cabinet is almost exactly like the one in my laundry room, except that mine will be placed next to two walls (back and right). Love your solution to the wood countertop and backsplash -- so much wood gets wasted when cutting a sink opening from a large wood slab. Thanks for showing the steps you took to make it work; it's the only video I've seen like this!
This was super useful. For my first project I went down the path of trying to build something with 2x4 posts and learned the hard way about unforgiving concrete floors are in terms of level. I’ve been getting so frustrated with how unlevel and out of square it is. This is great!
Hi - I found it to be a very accurate and reliable saw. Dust collection wasn't great, which is the case with most miter saws, but I found all else to be fine. About a year ago, I gave it to my nephew who needed a miter saw and it is still going strong - Dennis
I've had one for a couple of years, I used a Chicago Electric for many years then replaced it with this one for the higher fence, better for crown molding. This past weekend I went through a cut list for 2 night stands, all oak, and it performed flawlessly. I did notice that the shadow light was not working, it was on but the shadow had faded, didn't take the time to see if I could fix it. It is very heavy compared to the Chicago Electric, I decided to get the stand that Bauer makes for it with wheels. I do think it was worth the money I payed for the upgrade. Some may say it's not much of an upgrade, but you have to consider the application. I'm a DIYer, my livelihood doesn't depend on my tools. I just don't buy the construction grade tools for my weekend projects.
@@samuelrd61 thanks for the comments - I forgot about the shadow line, but that is a great feature and was spot on - some had an issue with it not working after some time and if I recall correctly there was some speculation that it was a result of leaving the machine plugged in - i never had the issue but I also only plugged it in when needed - whether that kept it working I don’t know but I loved the feature
I found out that it can be fixed, the LED light has to be replaced. I've worked on electronics before so I don't think I will have any problems doing it, but it might not be for everyone. It doesn't ruin the saw, the guy in the video I watched said the circuit stays hot, even when the saw was not running. I do remember finding the light on before when I wasn't using the saw .
Each purchase we make is a vote within a free-market system. It is the greatest power any of us will ever wield; we should use it wisely. My decision as to what to buy depends on several factors: Budget, quality, my needs, country of origin, brand reputation, etc. The perceived value of each is always viewed through the lens of one’s budget. An unlimited budget might bring product quality or country of origin into sharp focus. The more constrained the budget, the more important cost becomes. With a limited budget, the diversity of tools one owns is constrained by the premiums paid for each. Compromises must be made. Does spending more for one tool justify not owning another altogether? All things being equal, i prefer to support local economies. I prefer products made in the USA. I prefer products made in my state. I prefer to buy from a local store. I prefer to support locally owned stores. These things all have value to me, so i’m willing to pay a premium to support each. The perceived value is, however, finite. Its value, to me, is proportional to my budget. Unfortunately, things often aren’t equal. Especially cost and quality. Often, local stores (or certain brands) don’t carry/offer the quality i’m seeking, or the premium they’re asking exceeds the value it has to me. So i may purchase online, or a different brand. Brand loyalty is usually born of one or more of the following: Consistent quality, value for the cost, customer support, or technical support. Or good marketing. Unfortunately, some companies with a loyal following price-gouge. Companies which charge 2x for comparable products are likely relying too much on their name, and not offering customers a good value for their money. They would likely expand sales, brand loyalty, and make higher profits if they didn’t price-gouge. The economics of free-markets are nonlinear and can be tricky. Although i perceive the Woodpecker brand as top tier, and i value quality tools, i don’t own any of their products. My purchases have always gone to competitors which offered a better overall perceived value for my money. Buying a quality tool generally means it may last longer, be more versatile in application, perform better, be easier (or more of a pleasure) to use, etc. That has value. The more often i’m likely to use a tool, the more valuable the quality aspect is to me. This is especially true for hand tools, which are more likely to last a lifetime than power tools (which may wear out more quickly, or simply become obsolete). But for rarely used tools, paying a premium for quality becomes far less important, provided the quality is adequate for the intended task.
New subscriber here -- definitely like how you raised the top on the sides giving some storage spaces as a lot of other approaches show building a drop area to site the saw. I'm copying this method because I already have a workbench in place. Nice doubling up on the plywood sheets. I recently removed a formica-covered countertop and was surprised that it was double layers of particleboard. The thing was solid as a rock!
@SpringRubber - thanks for subscribing!! The storage comes in handy for sure. I thought about making some friction fit drawers, nothing fancy, but honestly, it works fine as an open space. 2 sheets of plywood - yes, very solid! No regrets - appreciate the comment - Dennis
Great, concise install video! I see you got several questions about the mounting hardware. In case it helps anyone, when I mounted my smaller 7-inch version under an adjustable height worktable, I used a combination of 2 carriage bolts for the rear slots and 2 lag screws for the front holes. The heads of the bolts are buried between the spacer blocking and worktable -- and I used square-hole anti-turn washers to ensure the carriage bolts won't ever spin. Not that that was a big concern for me as my local hardware store now stocks those washers (because our code now requires them for through-bolts in deck construction) I figured what the heck. A combination of bolts and screws makes it uber secure.
