You don't have to use key-on power. You can use the "always on" method shown in the wiring diagrams I have listed in the video description - links to the diagrams are in the description.
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Can someone explain what the STINGER is for? I bought one, am prepared to use it but I saw a video showing JUST the TRUE AM Isolator hooked to both batteries and ONLY a fuse block & negative busbar
The stinger relay cuts power to the new fuse box and therefore cuts power to all his accessories when the key is off. I was curious why he would do that. Some people may want to have power from your 2nd battery to some accessories without the key on. The isolator will still protect the primary battery from draining in that case.
Not sure why a viewer would repeatedly overlay this man's video with negative comments & name calling but THANK YOU Mr. Sparre for well described video & installation, bumps, hitches, warts n all...great job, it's what I'm using to wire mjne
I have one installed on my pioneer 700. It works. However, it’s been in for two years and I notice a leak from the unit. I’ve tightened the hoses to make sure. I contacted their customer service, I’ve never heard from them. Also when I installed the vents, one of the vents was broken, I contacted them for a replacement, never heard from them. I’ve learned this company is absolutely awful at customer service. If I had my time back, I would install an Amazon diesel heater like many have. It’s inexpensive and very easy to install. And it’s from Amazon: much much better customer service. My two cents.
Wow that’s terrible! They made a mistake on my order but addressed right away. That’s the only experience I’ve had with them. Mine is still working fine - but I don’t use it a lot. Was originally planning to use it during winter plow season but have only had one snow in last 2 years - so haven’t really put any stress on it. Sorry you as such a bad experience with them.
Well done. Recently watched a fishers off road video and they were way off base in their reasoning of why or why not you you would need an extra battery. It is crucial for the people who run numerous accessories and a must for anyone who runs many accessories in a Honda pioneer because of the clutches.
It’s a pretty generic relay. I got mine with the voltmeter kit which I provide the link for in the description. It’s a 4 position relay - be sure to wire it as shown in the diagram as it is a little different than wiring a normal switch relay.
The aux battery will charge when running just like the main battery. I like the trickle charger addition because I don’t run my vehicle as often as a regular car and it can sit for weeks sometimes in hot or cold weather. 12 gauge from stinger to fuse box
@@SwampLifeAdventures yikes - definitely have a wiring mistake. I would disconnect the fuse box and I would double check the wiring diagram and make sure every connection is accounted for properly. If you don’t find the issue, then I would disconnect everything from the 2 batteries and start reconnecting one cable at a time and check voltages with each step.
Do you really need the positive bus bar? Couldn’t you run your accessory ground the the ground bus bar and your positive wire to the new fuse box that you are adding? That was you are eliminating the use of a positive bus bar. Thank you
No you don’t need a positive bus bar. However, when you have high current loads such as a winch or maybe light bars, you are not going to tie them to the fuse box as that is only for the switch which is low current. You need to connect the load to the positive bus bar or the battery terminal. The bus bar avoids having to stack multiple connections onto the battery and having to remove and reconnect to the battery post every time you add a new load.
Robert, what size wire did you use from the stinger to energize the new fuse panel? And what size did you use from the negative side of fuse panel to negative bus bar?
I have basically the same system and configurations as yours on my TALON. Stinger, isolator, fuse block, etc. I have found that if I connect my battery tender to the main battery terminals, it charges as would be expected. However, the AUX battery is sometimes not getting a charge through the isolator. As soon as the battery tender senses a full charge on the main battery, it goes into standby mode, and the AUX battery gets "cheated" or sometimes won't get any charge at all. Since I found this, I have had to get a second battery tender just for the AUX battery (which is isolated first by opening an 80 AMP breaker). I must add that while the engine is running, both batteries are getting same 13.5 volts and everything seems to work just fine.... it's just the battery tender won't usually charge both batteries consistently. I believe that because of this problem, the AUX batterie's life was shortened and now is suffering and difficult to get it to a full charge. I suppose that I should open it up and do a specific gravity test on the AUX battery to see where it stands.
Wow - that is a bummer! Thanks for the detailed explanation. I will check my aux battery to make sure it is getting charged after the main battery is fully charged. I haven’t noticed any issues yet - but this is a good heads up to check it out.
Perfect video to kearn how to do, only thing not covered would be the on-off-on switch. Do you perhaps have a video on that or any advice on how to install one? Thanks agin for the great video!
Sorry for delayed reply. I do have a wiring diagram for the on-off-on configuration. It is on the HondaSxS forum since RU-vid does not provide for attachments. The link to that diagram is in this video description.
Thanks Tony! I have not experienced any of the issues you describe but the climate is not so cold where I am (Philly area) that I need to run it full blast for long periods. It takes the edge off for sure and it can be toasty enough - but I’m probably not really stressing it to the max. Maybe those that are experiencing problems can provide context for their situation.
Great video. I’m reading a lot of comments around the internet that say people are experience performance issues related to the heater being under the seat. They’re saying it’s harming sensors and causing the sxs to shut down when it heats up. Have you experienced any kind of problems like this now that you’ve had your heater installed for a while?
Great video watched it multiple times... with that being said I have a few questions, 1. Is there a way to have the trickle charger charge both batteries with just one trickle charger? 2. We're you able to hook the bigger wires for the winch to the fuse block or do they just go to aux. Battery?
Thanks Matthew! The one trickle charger will charge both batteries as shown in the video. The isolator takes care of allowing the charger to reach the aux battery once the main battery is fully charged. As for the heavier winch wires - you just want them going to the aux battery because that is the “load” carrying heavier current. The small wires are for the low current switch and they go to the fusebox.
It came with the voltmeter as a kit. I did not purchase separately. I got the kit from the HondaSxS.com club store and there is a link to the kit in the video description. Maybe they can help identify it for you. I don’t recall any special markings on it.
Great video!!. I installed something pretty close to your install with the "key on" to power up my bus (no fuse box at this time). I still run into issues draining my primary battery while running my accessories. it take about an 45 minutes or so to drain it running just the radio. I'm assuming its do to keeping the relay open. I plan on moving the "key on" switch to a manual switch directly from the aux battery. Thanks again for the Video!!
Hello Robert, I must echo the sentiments of all the others and thank you for your detailed videos. As one person noted, the more detail, the better. My battery installation was a little different than yours as my winch was installed when I picked up the sxs. It took some figuring, but thanks to your explanation and diagrams (which I watched many times!) I believe my result is what it should be - according to your testing demo. My dual volt meter also seems to be working well as the battery voltages change slightly when the machine has been sitting, and then increase as the machine runs for a few minutes until they read the same. Thanks again to both of you for your hard work. Cheers, Tie
I can’t get power from the stinger relay to the accessory fuse box. My multimeter says I have power every where else but there. I can hear it click when I turn the key on. Any idea what I did wrong?
Not sure exactly what "type" they are. Size is Metric 6x20 with a pitch of 1. Probably either stainless steel or brass. Looks like brass in the video - lol. It was awhile ago.
Thank you for taking the time to walk this through step by step! White board schematic knocked it out of the park for me. I even screen shot it for reference. Great job!!
Great review. I plan on adding the back up light soon (but need to get the switch), as well as the plug n play turn signals. I'll also need to add brake lights up high since I'm getting a rack for my tire/gas can which will partially block the back lights. I'll need to figure that out since I'm not electrically inclined. Thanks for sharing your upgrades.
Thank you for such detailed video. I’m using this for my utv. I’m using a Vent Racing fuse box which comes with positive, negative, and acc wires coming off the fuse box already. The question is where do I to attach the ACC wire …the fuse Box in your setup only has pos and neg wires. The instructions say to attach it to the factory ACC but that’s not a dual battery setup situation. So does this Vent fuse box SCC wire go to the positive bus from your diagram? I hope this makes sense.
Hi Rick - great question. I am not an electrical engineer - but my interpretation would be that the Vent Racing box is using the acc feed for key on power - ie when the key is turned in, the Vent box will be energized. My diagrams show a stinger relay in that role, where the key on power from the accessory circuit goes to the stinger, and the fuse box then being energized from the stinger. So in your case I suspect the fusebox is wired to not get power from the positive connection until the acc wire has power. So I would look into whether you can eliminate or bypass the acc wire, or maybe even connect both the positive and acc wire to the stinger because the acc wire is not really needed - but it may still need power to allow the fusebox to energize. I would check with the manufacturer - maybe a support line or forum that asks how to bypass the acc line or if it is ok to connect together with the positive line since your positive input won’t have power unless the stinger is energized, which already depends on acc power. This of course assumes you are using a stinger. If you are not using a stinger, then just connect the acc wire to the acc circuit in the main fuse box. Good luck with your project! Let me know how it turns out.
@@rsparre Thank you for the quick response (amazing!). Yes, I'm using a Stinger and I think your solution makes sense. If I connect the fuse box ACC and Positive wires then I'll be back to a "always-on" situation and then when I feed both of those wires to the Stinger then it be a "key-on" power again. I did download load your wiring diagram from the link you provided in one of the "replies" and have printed it and posted to my garage wall for reference. I couldn't have started this project with your video's and knowledge. I'll let you know how this goes.
@@Profc317 cool! Hey there are 3 different wiring diagrams to handle several different scenarios such as always on versus key on so you might want to check those alternatives for ideas. (All diagrams are on the same thread on HondaSxS.com.) Looking forward to your results!
sorry for delayed reply - just noticing it. I believe I paired two 12 ga together. I don't know that it was necessary, but i decided to add some additional current capacity by adding the 2nd wire (just ran in parallel and joined ends together). I don't think I explain this detail in the video.
Hello. Great video. I called the manufacturer of the True dual battery kit with the isolator, and they told me we did not need the Stinger. Why did you add the stinger and what do you think it adds to the system that is not accomplished by the dual battery kit?
hi Edward. Thank you for the feedback. you are correct that the stinger is not required. I think most people use it though. It isolates current draw to the aux battery and protects the main battery. It is an added layer of protection that I feel is worth it.
Thanks we suspected that we weren’t sure. I also noticed on our True isolator that one of the terminals is marked for the “main” battery and the other for the “auxiliary” battery. We tried to follow that in our installation. The next step is to deal with the Stinger. Thanks!
Robert thank you for the awesome video. I really enjoyed it, it was very educational. When you hook up the battery tender to the main battery will that charge the auxiliary battery as well? Thank you!
Thanks John! Yes the aux battery will automatically be charged by the battery tender as soon as the main battery is at full charge - usually around 13 volts. So good to go!
@@codylane4606 I am not familiar with controllers and built in relays. The stinger is not likely required in your setup but I am not an expert in that deployment so I would post that to the Hondaxsx.com forum.
To access the "cigarette lighter" I found in the driver side wheel well I could access a compartment door protected by a couple push pins and several guide hooks that keep the door fastened. From there it's a little trick but shining a light from above helped direct me in the area of the harness for key on power.
I followed your diagram on the whiteboard, thanks for the efforts on this! How do I hook up my battery tender to charge and maintain both batteries while in my Pioneer?
Greetings Todd. The video should be pretty clear on how to hook up the battery tender to keep both batteries charged. The main battery gets priority, then the isolator will allow the aux battery to charge once the voltage is up to about 13.x volts. Watch again and focus on the tender hookup for an explanation of this. Let me know if still any questions.
Great video laying out the plan on the white board. I am dealing with a 700 and will be doing a similar modification. I was just curious if you considered replacing the small factory battery with a single larger battery allowing the same accessories to be used rather than having two batteries? Was just curious because I have seen both options being used. Thanks again for taking the time making the video. Cheers
Hey JT - definitely not an option for me to use a single larger battery. The main reason is to isolate the main battery (that is responsible for starting and clutch operations) from all accessories connected to the aux battery. This protects against unexpected load or drain from a rogue accessory on the main battery. I don't want any malfunction or accidental current drain from an accessory affecting the starting battery. It's not a right or wrong thing - so there are options based on the goals you have. My primary goal is to protect the main battery. Thank you for your kind words - I was happy to make the video and glad it could be helpful.
So help me understand how do u connect an accessory? Do u connect to the positive bus bar then to the fuse box? Or fuse box to bus bar? But doesn't the fuse box already have power, so why the need for the bus bar? I dunno im confused. And do u need a fuse box if ur accessory comes with inline fuses?
Hey D - did you look at the wiring diagrams I posted on the HondaSxS.com forum? I have links to them in the video description as RU-vid does not provide for attachments. Looking at a diagram might help sort out some confusion. The buss bar is a convenience - not a requirement. Many people like myself decided that it is worth having the positive buss bar so that it is easy to connect new accessories, especially the heavy load items (anything over 15 amps). I don't like putting high current accessories through the fusebox. (The SWITCH for the high current accessory is fine to put through the fusebox, but not the LOAD.) Inline fuses are fine - you don't have to run through a fuse box. So essentially, it's not a right and wrong thing - it's a matter of preference, convenience, and consistency. The main thing to be certain of is the electrical "potential", meaning the voltage potential at any connection point. The fuse box, positive buss bar, anything that is connected directly together is the same electrical potential. So you could use any connection point that is the same electrical potential to accomplish the task. You want to make sure the wiring that you use is able to handle the current/amp load.
I've worked on three Pioneers, and they beg the question on why Honda cannot put in a decent electrical system with a proper alternator. Reminds me of old British cars and their dodgy wiring.
