All I can say is wow!!! What a difference that made. 2005 3500 ram with 550k. No idea how old the box is but had to tighten at least two full turns then backed it off 3/4 turn and it’s perfect. Took me longer to get the tools out than to adjust it.
Thanks for this video, it's the first time I've seen this bolt mentioned, but it now seems like the obvious way to re-tension the spring. Do you think there's a way to lever the bolt out a bit first so that it doesn't round off at all?
Pretty much the way I do it . I would only add a simple thing , make sure the wheels are pointed forward when you snug it down due to the over center spot.
1993 S10 BLAZER TAHOE LT 4X4. 72,OOO miles. I'm being told by Midas that they no longer adjust the box and will only replace them. I don't see any harm in adjusting them until you have used it all up.
Just adjust it. They say that to make more money plus the guys in the shop probably do not even know how to adjust them as most are to young to know or where former hamburger flippers. At that mileage you have, that box is in better shape then the rebuilt box you would replace it with (no new boxes available). Almost every box I have replaced or worked on after someone else has replaced needs to be adjusted. The guys rebuilding them never seem to get it right. I will warn you one thing. I have a 96 s10 jimmy . You will find many parts for your vehicle are no longer available either factory or aftermarket. I have a customer with 2 of basically the same vehicle and have told him several times it is time to go. Your vehicle is low mileage but when things start to go that are not directly drive train/brakes/steering related it may be hard or impossible to find and the parts you find may be only low quality.
as you say gears wear and if it werent meant to be adjusted the adjustment screw & locknut wouldnt be there! when i did mine i have the front end off the ground so i could use the wheels to turn the steering back n forth to feel any binding. mine took about 1/8th of a turn to correct the wandering feel (fzj80 landcruiser)
Thanks for showing the internals and explaining the taper. Now it makes perfect sense. I'm also going to put Permatex Ultra Black gasket sealer on the input shaft splines where the steering shaft attaches to take up any possible play from wear. I've done this on the transfer case output shaft splines and it keeps the drive line smooth. FYI, A guy should let it dry 24 hours before driving. Thanks again for the video.
I find this after I bought a $200 part and took the old one off. Labor on this is a bitch. Its heavy AF and putting the Pittman arm on with the box on the truck sux. Gotta index the new box and arm .it just sux.
The problem is that I am exhausted all means to loosen the nut to adjust the play, even used commercial air tools, crow bars for leverage and still will not loosen the nut any ideas?
@AlexT-md9df Try going the other way with the adjuster, some boxes, the adjustment is the opposite direction of all the rest. The box in my Jeep is from Mercedes, they only used it for a few years, and it's the opposite of the boxes that were in Jeeps for decades
I have a 97 F150 How do I know if its bad? I have had 6 alignments and the truck still pulls to the left and when you let go of the steering wheel it turns right does that mean its bad? There is also play in my steering wheel. Not sure if i can adjust mine. Other than that are no leaks or anything that wobbles or is loose.
As you said our waste of time our screwing, well my thought on that is.....That what separates TECHNICIANs from PART replacers. Unfortunately, the industry is filled with @85% of guessers and professional part replacers. Good job, it also puts so much value of the customers dollar as well
I made a mistake of using antiseize on my caliper bolts years ago. Some time later i was chasing a front end rattle over bumps. Couldn't find the source in the suspension. I discovered the source of the rattle going down the mountain pass. One of the bolts fell out. Luckily the caliper just rotated a bit and was grinding on the rotor. I degreased and torqued the rest of the bolts, wrapped some random bolt i found in the trunk with duct tape and drove the rest of the way home, 150 miles.
Is it possible to have in and out play? I have a Jeep wrangler Jk and I can grab my steering wheel and has minimal in and out play not sure if it’s this or maybe the column
Yes wrong. I had a car pop out of gear, roll down the street and jump the opposite curb onto a sidewalk. Never parked a manual without e-brake after that
When in doubt wheel chock it with anything nearby, a rock, a large stick, a baby, tightly rolled up rug/mat, car jack, or actual wheel chock since they are cheap. Yes, was JK about the baby, the point is just about anything will do in a pinch.
Kuddos for this. I bought the OEM cord for my '22 2500 Cummings and ran across this video for the install. Currently have the front grill removed for another task, so figured this would be the perfect time to get the cord routed the right way. Thanks again...will try to tackle this later today.
