Hello all, Welcome to my little corner. First- I am not a mechanic. I am a simple person who loves to do his own work on his own vehicle/s. I am also for the "right" to repair. Come along for the ride. I am not a professional for any skill/trade/auto and don't claim to be. My content will be varied. Ranging from automotive to DIY/home.
I upload on a monthly basis- at least try to.
You can follow me on twitter or on facebook. Generally, I will respond to your commet/question.
When I did the diff today, I just pumped about half of a quart, then added the friction modifier to the half-filled quart bquarter, Edit: I do tow a trailer in Florida, and I plan on doing a fluid service about every 50k miles.
This was a fantastic video and a great learning experience. I had never done anything this extensive to my vehicle so being able to watch your entire process was awesome. I also really appreciated that you talked your thoughts out loud. I ended up taking the dust shields off right from the jump and made sure I had some stubby sockets ready. All in all, I feel really accomplished and saved about $1200 from the quote I got. Both rear uppers, sway bars AND new knuckles. A lot of work but your video gave me the confidence to go for it. Thanks!
i have one like that, there is no graphic card on it that was taken out becouse not working, also the keyboard is not working, i like to get that up and running again, laptop is working but not so powerfull as it was, anybody who know how to fix this im greatfull
Really enjoyed the video, tha ks for taking the time to post this up. Appreciated the full length and thought process too. Will be attempting this weekend
Thanks for providing an inside look of how my life will also be for 4 tires on my 2014 i3.. I've see devices that are small enough to attach right to the springs to tighten them while under the car. I'm olso going to replace the shock as well as the boot and rubber top piece.
Getting a wheel speed sensor fault from the same wheel. Not sure how to tell if it's the sending unit or the hub fins that are at fault. I replaced the front left last year and it was the hub that was the problem, not the sensor. I'm not too interested in replacing one and then the other but wasn't sure on FORscan how to tell the difference between the two.
Strange, I didn't have anything too wild happen when I replaced my 12V battery, all the craziness was before that when my battery was dying. Once I installed the new one and registered it, everything came up within minutes. One thing I did have in common with you is the first time I plugged it in afterwards, I got the blinking "red ring of death," but after the classic "unplug and replug a bunch of times method" it started working, took maybe 1-2 minutes of sitting there and contemplating itself. Also yes I installed a different aftermarket battery in mine, it was only $50 vs $200, roughly the same size and same capacity. Model was a Y50-N18L-A3
There is an easier way to compress the rear caliper piston with that tool, or any tool for that matter. Remove the bracket, the rotor, put the bracket back on and mount the caliper to it, then put a block of wood behind the caliper, then use the tool. Caliper wont move, and will go much faster with no twisting of the tool. Just finished one up, and am looking for the specs, which I found, thank you very much. Powerstops BABY! Hubs OTOH are a royal PITA with those aluminum spindles. Bimetal corrosion FTW.
Just did this swap today. 2 hour start to finish thanks to your video. We took the battery and battery box out and it gave us a ton of room to work. Looked much easier than you were having to deal with.
Ya, those harnesses by the fuse box were a pain but we undid as many as possible and moved them out of the way. Thanks again for the good overview. It was very helpful.
I just bought a 2012 flex limited, have always loved the look of the flex, definitely love the power of the turbos. Anyway, I enjoyed the overview, it was very informative. As of right now, my flex doesn't have any of the rocker panel rust issues, but mine only has 58k miles. I am just wondering if you have come across anyone suggesting any preventative maintenance to keep them from rusting from the inside out? thx
Excellent Video, great humor, and honesty. This is very important if you want longevity. There are theories that using the vacuum method of removing all the fluid can cause concern with high mileage vehicles. This is the safer method with high mileage vehicles.
I’ll personally say f it and cut the hose off those junky plastic T fittings and get come barbed metal ones and clamps. Looks like probably enough access from the top of the engine.
Warning. that ISN'T a simple brake job on the rear. the Electronic Parking Brake will need some attention. do some research on how to retract it safely.
