My name is Kim Dailey and I am the person who creates everything that we make at Dailey Woodworking. One of my goals is to create art that you can use every day. I make beautiful functional art objects that you can use in your kitchen, dining room or office. Please visit daileywoodworking.com or daileywoodworking.etsy.com to see all of our products.
I'm changing the focus of this channel to include all that we do here at Dailey Woodworking. I create beautiful pieces in my shop during the day but we are also making maple syrup again and have a lot of outside projects to get done as well. Please stick around to see what we are up too.
I have worked in a few mills in lifetime and It is hard work. I noticed one thing you need to do before you start trying to really cut anything. Your log bed is not straight. The saw head is rolling toward the center from both ends. That means the center is low compared to the ends.
Very true. It was level before I started but got progressively worse. First time setting up in that spot and it settled. Fixed for now. Thanks for watching.
If you have a landscape rake I would use that, turned at an angle, to help pull some of those bigger rocks out of the driveway. The grading looks Great my Brutha! Keep up the tractor videos!
Might I suggest you buy a small level from Harbor freight or a better aluminum one from Home Depot. The reason I say this is that you can use it to quickly level your implement with the right side lift adjustable lift arm. I use one to level mine and I measure it off of the tractor at the PTO cover/ or where the tow bar goes. I am also sorta boujee so I bought a Klein Tools electric pocket level. It gets rid of the bubble guess work! 😉
the only down pressure on the rear is the weight of the implement. if you have nothing on the back and you lower the hitch, you will see that you can easily lift the arms to hitch up. there is no down pressure.
Interesting, I'll have to try that when I take the grader off. I believed it was down pressure because it tips the grader when I lower it all the way down however it sounds like I still don't have the adjustment correct. Learn something new everyday. Thanks for watching.
@@Daileywoodworking it tips the grader due to how the toplink is attached to it. Everything in the back works off of a slight arch. (The Lower Links/ control arms and upper top link) This changes due to how you lengthen and shorten the top link
make two planks of the same thickness that fit between the saw bed, measure from the plank the thickest side to the heart of the trunk, do the same on the thin side of the trunk and bring the thin side of the heart to the same height of the thickest side. In this way you saw with the fiber growth of the trunk and you have the least tension in the planks you saw.
No you’re not wrong on the assembly. My neighbor had to adjust his too and his came assembled. Don’t know why as it is very annoying. Surely someone has advised WM.
Hope all are well in your family my neighbor just bought their larger one. Possibly 8”. We mulched some cedar for my garden. Filled the truck bed in about 20 min. Worked great. He has a series JD. Does that model have reverse too.
The T-25 also cures ED. No silly not that ED. When I got my tractor I no longer had Envy Disorder. No more watching my neighbours clearing snow with their tractors and being soooo Envious.
By oscillating a lot, do you mean the head is moving side to side? If so, it could be the bushings on the uprights need adjustment. I haven’t had that problem but I did have to adjust them during setup. Thanks for watching & subscribing.
Sorry I’m to new to sawing to offer more advice. Maybe someone else will see this and offer better advice. There is also a Facebook group for Woodland Mills and that would be a good place to ask. A lot more experienced people there.
I like your mill! I think you did a very good job on those logs. I have seen other channels doing wood cutting and it seems all have their own style. I did see one that uses a metal detector to check for nails, staples for fences, and bullets that may have been in the tree when younger and not visible when milled. I wonder if you took a hose and hosed down the log prior to cutting to get any dirt off that might dull your saw. I have subscribed and I like what you are doing! What part of the country are you in there?
Thanks, I'm pretty happy with the mill. I do have a metal detector but haven't used it on the logs yet. I do use a leaf blower to somewhat clean the junk off the logs before sawing them. Hosing them down would also work. A high pressure washer might work even better and remove some of the bark too. We are in the western foothills of Maine. Thanks for watching.
When trying for 2 post; After cutting your third side drop down (5” in your case) and make your fourth cut. Now roll that top off 90* roll bottom 90* and set for fifth cut 5” off the deck. Roll bottom 90* (after bringing saw head back to start position) make final pass and you’ll have your two 5x5. Better economy of movement. Hope that makes sense.
Ideally I would like to be able to load logs onto my sawmill along with moving brush. I’m not sure my T25 can handle one or not but i like the look of a root grapple. Titan looks like they make a nice one but I haven’t really started researching them yet.
This winter (2023/24) will be my first time with a snowblower on the front of the T-25. It’s a bercomac 56”. I’ll let you know how it performs here in NB.
Your channel just popped into my feed, I’ve had my WM 126 for eight years now, and learned a ton of things, some good and some bad, if you’ve done you research on them you likely know lots of things you should be doing to saw the logs, it’s the things that break down is when the frustrations set in. Over the years I’ve relied on many RU-vidrs that have been through the hoops, main thing is to love what you’re doing and have fun, good luck!
Thanks, as always I’m sure mistakes will be made and will be great lessons learned. I do watch a ton of sawmill videos, just got to put it all action now. Thanks for watching.
I use steel pipe over the log stops when turning a log or cant. Never gets hung up on the stop. Are you using a wireless mic? What type? It sounds good.
A lot of people have suggested that I try pvc pipe for the log stops. Have you tried that? Do you think the steel pipe is better? Yes to the wireless mic and it's from DJI that I bought off Amazon. amzn.to/3ih9Fo4 It's somewhat expensive but you get what you pay for. I have it hooked up to my Canon Mark 50 camera and they do a good job together but the mics also work with my GoPro's.
@@Daileywoodworking i have not trying the pvc, but a friend of mine uses them. If you try them make sure to get thick wall pvc. I took an steel post from an old chain link fence (I think it is about 2-1/2 inches) and cut into 2 two foot sections. They are thin wall so not as heavy as regular steel pipe. They really do make turning log easier. I just made a video about using my overhead trolley hoist to turn a log. It shows me using my pipes. I like you mic system. Your sound was very good. That's really important! I sometimes use Comica wireless mics with my go pros. I think they are cheaper than DJI. But usually just use the GP mics. StaY safe!
I'll have to watch that trolley video. I often wonder why people who have a building for their sawmill don't use something like that. Seems like a logical step, I've seen it used moving steel around. I'm going to try the pvc myself, I don't have anything else around here that I could use. One of the things that I noticed with just the GP on board mics was that if I was in front of the camera they picked up my voice just fine but not so much if I was behind the camera. So I bought the DJI. It came down to the DJI or Rode and I think, at the time, the Rode mics were more expensive.
I like what you're doing, in life as well as your videos. I can relate. Like you I'm finding my way in the youtube world. You're now 1 subscriber closer to the 500 milestone. That's 200 plus closer than me. Keep at it.
Use a laser level with magnet. Attach to the wheel door with beam at same level as blade. Then point it down the log and you can judge the height from end to end.
Great idea. A laser in on the list just want to run the mill more before putting money into a laser. Also not really sure how well the laser will show up in the sun because the mill isn’t covered yet. Thanks for watching and I like your videos. I’ve watched quite a few.
Looks like fun. If I could offer some tips. Usually when digging a trench/ drainage ditch you start at the water end first. But, not in the water. Leave yourself whatever amount of dirt you feel will hold up the water. Like a dam. Then dig away from that point. Wherever possible NEVER drive over ( straddling )a ditch you just dug. Always keep the ditch in front of you and you wheels on solid ground. When you’ve run out of backing room finish your trench buy digging at a 45*-90* angle 📐 to the ditch. It’s a bit more difficult but much safer. Then your last task will be to open the dam. Obviously there are situations where you’ll have to fully start without a dam if you can’t get back to that area. Plan your route carefully so as not to paint yourself into a corner sort to speak. Once you’re more familiar with your controls the more you’ll realize how much lower and longer you cam boom out especially for shallow ditches. Love that little tractor. God bless and play safe.
your can hook can be stored from your trailer axle to first leveler, out of the way to needed next no bending over to pick it up ........ oh pvc. pipe works well going over log stops saves time in turning log........ great white north ...........S
Im no expert but most sawmills level the pith not the top edge. Normally the grain will be straighter. And it’s easier to keep pith to one or two center boards instead of multiple boards.
Before you cut take the saw to the opposite ended of the log and lower your blade just past the log and get the blade to the point of material that is required to square it up then look at your height gauge and remember the height then raise your blade go back to the other end of the log and lower your blade back to that measurement. That will take all the material in one pass instead of making multiple small cuts. Never plan to make the log into a certain lumber square it up first then see what you can get out of it.
