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Break-in oil is not just for flat tappet cams, but also for piston rings seating properly. Using a break-in oil without friction modifiers helps seat the piston rings, but it needs to be removed after 100-200 miles at the most, and replaced with a synthetic oil for modern passenger vehicles.
Vr1 does not actually have as much zinc as you would think, their website states 1100 ppm and that’s not enough for a fresh cam. However it does work ok for an older established engine.
All you need is a foot and a half rod with a bent at the end about 1-in lower your window down and stick it through the window slot in the corner by the lock lock rod but right in the corner and then push down on top of the lock mechanism actuator. remember down not up like others say
I would have rebuilt the trans if I had to take it out, and 350 valve gets full of crud and needs cleaned out as well. Install a shift reprogramming kit also as 3rd gear is weak and the kit opens up more oil, and new hi pressure springs for pressure and 2-3 really help a 350.
@@meridian208 I'm trying to identify mine. It's 496 stroker has hurst shifter automatic and the trans looks exactly like that one. Is mine th350 as well?
It's probably the rings on the shaft. I think I had the same problem. They have to compress kinda like piston rings. I believe I just messed with it enough and it eventually seated in
This is NOT UNCOMMON! Happened to us back in the late 70's on a Ford 351. Someone stuck rags up into the intake manifold ports while intake was lying on a workbench. We broke/bent nothing as it locked up immediately... never started.
I did everything finally I took it to the man , the latch just froze up they got it out by wedging the panel from the door had a tool to reach down and pry it open , new latch was 200 bucks time & labor bout 300 bucks they got done without messing anything up worth every penny! Some time it's just best to let a professional do the job
I have same issue, with a th350, but it seems like it's coming from the cable? I pressed the bullet in, and replaced gear. Do They leak from the cable?
Don’t be scared of it back it off let her click, ease it in until it stops. Do them all this way then you can go back and do a 1/4,1/2,3/4 of a turn. Can’t be scared of it, you’ll know if u back them off too far they get loud lol. Another trick is to take a junk set of valve covers if h have any laying around and drill holes in them or cut the center out to access the lifter nuts for mess free adjustment. Also another tip is to remove the rocker arm nuts with engine off and dimple or slight cremp the top of the rocker arm nut so the nut won’t back off, a lot of people don’t realize this but the rocker arm nuts are theoretically “one time use”. Not meant to back off and run in more than a few times. Just my 2 cents take it like a grain of salt. Another option is to Drain a quart of oil out then top it back off with a quart of desiel fuel, fire it up let it idle for 20-30 min around 800 or 1000 rpm. Do not put engine under load during this procedure. Then drain and add new filter and oil. This should help flush out sludge from pushrods etc.
My 200r4 , was rebuilt two years now and I finally found the root cause of the problem. I’ll be pulling that vent tube out tomorrow, thanks for the advice and great video. I’ll keep you guys updated on my results.
NOTE.. The frame wont simply fall away from body on drivers side. The steering box is attached to frame and steering linkage holds subframe fairly tight to underbody. Steering box needs to have bolts pulled out to get freeplay between subframe and body.. ( Didnt need to loosen steering box ) Passenger side is as you stated.. At least in my 1970 I just swapped bushings out, except driverside front subframe bushing.. Update, I loosened up all bushings around the subframe this morning.. Was able to persuade the front subframe bushing to come out. Was still needing a pinchbar to pry a bit but done. I didnt want to loosen up the bushings on passenger side too much. I had very thick spacer washers atop bushing. Remembered to put back.👍
You should just need these factory style crossmember motor mount stands. They bolt to the subframe/crossmember. You can get them from classic industries I believe
I remember watch a video where the mechanic claimed they put two of those rubber seals in the bullet to stop those types of leaks.My thm 350 oldsmobile transmission had the same problem.
Short, sweet and informative. No need to buy Chinese junk after watching this. What did you ever end up doing about the sock? I know an old hack is to just remove it but if you've found a way to replace it, I'm all ears.
I was abel to fixing my diseling by turning the idol down on the carberator (considerably 1 & 1/2 turns). Initially i turned the idol up and it started back firing really loud When i turn the key off. I was embarrassed to work on it at home because the back firing was so loud (gun shot loud high caliber). Friends said it was timing or i needed a new carburetor. Nope just idol control screw. Hope this helps!
I pulled my 351 because of freeze plugs repeatedly popping or slow leaking. Finally, I removed all of them, threaded the holes, and screwed in brass plugs with pipe dope on the threads. That was 10 years and 40,000 miles ago. No leaks. Freeze plugs aren't there to protect a frozen engine anyways. Two NPT taps, grind about half off the length of one of them to finish the thread. Then the proper size NPT plug. I can't remember the size.
