what were you using it for? Were you lifting a motorcycle? Did you have it firmly on a level surface lifting straight up vertical? I discovered these on a first class website for gold wings, called “traxxion dynamics”.. they produce very professional, videos on RU-vid, working on goldwings.. they never really talked about these jacks.. they just used them. And they had these things holding up gold wings without wheels on them when they would do a front end, upgrade, right under the engine… when I saw that, I had to have one.. I didn’t know who made them, so I searched the Internet and discovered them on the eBay. I used the one I have in this video to remove the forks from my six cylinder gl1800 Goldwing, to install new tires, are used to all the maintenance on my Venture, removing the swingarm to pull the driveshaft, to put tires on, I’m going to use it coming up here to pull the forks so I can do the steering head bearings and change the fork oil, I store my Venture on my jack over the winter’s, taking the weight off of the suspension for those winter months since 2021.. did the Jack actually fail? Or did it fall over? these jacks are rated at 1100 pounds, and I’m sure they probably have a 20% margin for error built in, but that would only be for lifting vertical, straight up. Once you start lifting some thing at an angle, all bets are off.. that would be the same for any floor, jack or scissors, jack or a bottle, jack, straight up only.. I would also never take anything up in the air using any jack any higher than I have to.. that was the Jack that you had collapse on you one of the ones with the adjustable perches?? I have seen them sold both ways on RU-vid with or without the adjustable saddles. Either way, lifting metal like a motorcycle frame with another piece of metall , like the smooth surface of these jacks, they could easily slide with the slightest side pressure… so did your Jack actually break and collapse, or did the Jack just fall over when you had something heavy on it. Now you got me worried I have other styles of motorcycle jacks.. I have that really big one that has two lifting points that are about 18 inches long. That Jack scares me and it’s always in the way on one side or the other whichever side you approach the lift from. I have that style jack standing up in the corner behind my welder, I have only tried to use it two times. It’s too shaky, you have to use four straps to stabilize whatever you are lifting from teetering on that style Jack that has been around for decades. I think I got mine back in the 1990s for Christmas one year. It’s a craftsman. It worked fine for lifting quotes. But I would never try to lift my Venture or my Goldwing with it.

I was lifting the front of my bike so I could put new brake pads in,I had the side stand down but of course it fell the other way, the part where you put the socket on stripped and came off in the socket .

@@colincorner1802 was that Lyft you were using brand new? Were you using an impact gun to turn the nut that turns the all thread shaft to raise the lift or are you doing it manually by hand with the socket on the end of a ratchet? I bought mine, new, and I’ve lifted my Goldwing three times. I had my Goldwing lifted right under the engine, which was pretty much all of the weight, for about a week with the front wheel and forks removed up on my lift, Jack i’ve had my venture up on the Jack about five times to replace the tires, then to remove the swing arm, which is recommended in the owners manual every 16,000 miles to lubricate the swingarm bearings, and I lubricated the driveshaft splines where they plug into the universe joint.. I have also had my Venture on the lift over the winters for almost 3 months , 2021-2022-2023.. If that Jack, you have that failed was brand new, I suspect it was defective.. i’m going to examine mine like an old fly stuck on old fly paper after hearing what happened to your jack.. was your motorcycle damaged very much? I had a 2 x 4 under my side stand on my Venture in my garage so that I could have it pretty much level when I was changing the oil once. I bumped my machine and it went right over onto the rollbars. I was very fortunate that the windshield did not strike my cabinet or my grinder, or my other motorcycle, which was outside at the time... it just missed.. A mechanic I worked with had his BMW R100RS up on his lift. His motorcycle lift table. I don’t know what he was doing, but it fell off the lift sideways. Well, it was all the way up, and the bike landed squarely on its windshield, gas tank and seat with the wheels straight up in the air. he had his machine up on the lift on the side, stand, not the center stand, and it rotated over and off the table when he was working on it.. scary stuff. It’s always something. I once asked a life long motorcycle rider, test rider for Harley Davidson back in the 30s call Mom BMW, motorcycle shop owner, mechanic that lived in his shop, wire wheel expert at building wheels for sports, cars and motorcycles, fixing wheels for the BMW, car club of America and the SAAB, club of America, mechanical genius. I asked him once, he was close to 80 years old at the time, living and working in his shop, ask him if he ever had a job that went smoothly start to finish… He said one word… NEVER ..

@@Jodyrides it was brand new and I was using a hand held socket and ratchet I never use a ratchet gun for anything

I flip a coin..

I have also heard that the corrosive nature of high silicate type of coolant can a braid the water pump, impeller shaft, and the seal causing them to leak.. I did a video sometime ago on how critical the correct radiator cap is and it’s three functions. I also mentioned the importance of never buying an aftermarket radiator cap for any vehicle. It’s important to always use an OEM radiator cap… I am still in the fog about all the different types of coolant there are available today. Aluminum compatible, Honda, toyota and a couple of the European companies have thier own coolant cocktail and its own individual color. Then I mentioned that there is a certain color that was recommended by one of the big tractor trailer manufacturers, that it was actually, a permanent coolant. Antifreeze used to be called permanent antifreeze as far back as I can remember. Then all of a sudden they recommend changing it periodically… I would think it would be important to change it just to get the corrosion out of the system.. I always thought it would’ve been a good idea to have a cartridge filter much like a car oil filter attachment to the lower hose with a bypass ability it would filter the coolant, and just change the filter periodically.. thanks for the heads up on the hose that has been known to fail on these bikes. When I was investigating NT 700 known problems on the Internet, the only widespread issues I found were spark, plug caps, and water pump issues. I remember a product from a company called redline, they made a water pump lubricant that was almost guaranteed to lubricate your water pump so that it would never fail. But I have not seen that product available for at least 25 years… I don’t believe in additives to gasoline or Oil.. i’m not too sure I would use that redline water pump lubricant, even if I could find it.. Thanks for the heads up

@@Jodyrides the problems I have had to repair were more related to the older 650cc A/B models of the Deauville, they use pressed steel dowel inserts into the base of both barrels, the dowels are connected by a short rubber tube which gives no problems. The dowels are far too thin IMO and can rot out quickly if the coolant is not changed, the heads and barrels must be removed to repair the problem but the parts are cheap though the job is time consuming making the overall job expensive. Another interesting flaw in the older design which covers the 400/500/600/650 and 750cc variants of this engine is the 2 sparkplugs per cylinder which people often ignore thinking the twin only has 2 sparkplugs yet they have 4, these engines will run fine with 2 of the lugs being faulty or disconnected as the hidden plugs are hard to find for most riders.

if you checked my videos of me, cleaning inside the fuel tank, and I was able to get my small camera inside the gas tank completely. I was able to get my entire arm inside the gas tank to clean the tank. It had deposits of the old gas evaporating away, and the stabilizer on the walls and especially on the bottom of the tank and on the internal plumbing. I used a scotch bright pad to loosen everything by hand because I could get my arm in the hole that the fuel pump came out of… I was able to use my little shop vac with a smaller hose, which fit through the gas cap hole.. I also cut the bristles of a 1 inch wide paintbrush, so they would be stiffer to get the deep seams in the gas tank clean… that rust can be pretty persistent at plugging things up. I had a.saab sonnett car back in the 70s that had a very common rusty fuel system problem. I got pretty good at doing roadside clearing of the carburetor that was getting rushed in it from the gas tank or the fuel line whichever.. I also had rushed inside the fuel tank on a few motorcycles. There is a product for sealing the inside of gas tanks that are rusty. That should be a simple matter on these gas tanks because you can get your whole hand inside up to the elbow to clean things and then you seal the inside with this coating called KREEM.. that KREEM was a little bit of a pain to use on motorcycle gas tanks that had a petcock. But since you will be removing the entire assembly that has the fuel pump and filter, it should not be that difficult, especially since it is just one side of your gas tank that is rusty… The camera that I used is a S E, and a prism tube camera. It is literally the size of a roll of nickels. I taped it to the end of a stick, and I was able to view the entire insides of my gas tank when I removed the camera and looked at the SD card video… you could also buy an endoscope on eBay for under $25 that plugs into your cell phone and has a tiny camera that you could almost do a colonoscopy with. You could stick that down inside the gas tank to inspect… I have heard from a few places over the years that a motorcycle that is 15 or 20 years old with extremely low mileage is not always a good thing. For reasons we are finding out firsthand right now. while you have the bike apart. Replace the spark, plug caps and coat the spark plug wires with silicone dielectric grease all the way up to the coils. That is a worldwide problem on these machines. I mentioned that in a video. Honda was about to do a worldwide recall to replace all of these spark, plug caps, so while you have the tank off, I suggest you replace them… if you look at my video of the fuel pump assembly, which cost over $1000 today as a complete unit. You’ll see that it is wrapped with an orange plastic netting. That netting is held in place by a tiny zip tie. It seems half ass but it works. I guess as a pre-filter to the tiny filter attached to the bottom of the fuel pump that looks like it has the surface area of one square inch. It looks like a plastic very fine mesh like a plastic coffee filter.. i’m not sure, but I think that this fuel pump is common to many many Honda motorcycles, like the Goldwing, and the shadow, that you can double check that by looking up different motorcycles, and comparing the part numbers of the fuel pump on different models.. When I had my Goldwing, I was going a little crazy, trying to locate the fuel filter to change it when I first bought that Goldwing used. It turns out, they don’t have a standard type fuel filter. It’s just that little Gauze screen… since you have rust, those tiny rust particles are as fine as instant coffee powder.. I would be concerned about plugging up the fuel injectors. I would remove the tank, remove the fuel pump cassette, and I would stick my arm in there with a scotch bright pad, and start working on loosening all that rust, and by that gas tank sealant… I made several videos of the fuel pump assembly. One of the videos I made it, so you can see exactly how the fuel pump assembly, including the fuel gauge goes back together… it looks complex, but it’s actually simple there’s one short piece of what looks like black fuel line that disintegrated into tiny pieces when I tried to remove it. I simply replaced it with some clear fuel line, which is getting tough to find… it is a standard stock item at Home Depot. I think it was a 5 foot section that I bought all rolled up and in a plastic bag in their lawnmower parts section for under five dollars. I cut a piece of that the exact size of the one that was on the fuel pump cassette assembly and replaced it with that… when you go to clean the inside of your fuel tank by hand, make sure you line the hole that the fuel pump sits in with electrical tape because I cut my hands up pretty good getting them in and out of there before I put the tape on. That is a sharp edge… my videos on the fuel pump and inside the gas tank I believe will help you a lot Good luck, and if you have any questions at all, I’d be happy to help if I can

yes, I agree, Honda made a beautiful machine when they made this one. Funny thing, I never remember seeing one of these on the road since they first became available. I never saw one at a Honda dealership on the showroom floor. I did see one for sale at a local Yamaha shop, it got my attention, I actually took it for a test ride. I had a Moto Guzzi Norge 1200 gt At the time, a gl1800 goldwing,my commuter Honda pacific coast, and a KLR 650 thatI put Street only tires on, and I adapted large military equipment cases to the KLR as saddlebags. So my garage was pretty full at that time.. that was when i spotted that only other NT700 I ever saw in my life for sale.. it was used and I thought the price was actually too low. They were asking $2600 for it at a Yamaha dealer. I think it was around 2018… I am a hopeless motorcycle junkie.. I took that machine for a test ride.. it felt compact, smallish, and not very powerful in comparison to the machine I was riding that day, my Moto Guzzi, Norge.. that test ride just kept gnawing at me. I couldn’t get that machine out of my mind. it was a complete package, it was in excellent condition with very low miles, it checked all the boxes, fairing, bags, center stand ,great seat, I talked myself into it ..So I went back about 10 days later. I had justified in my mind buying it on a practical level. I was actually relieved when I discovered that the machine had already been sold…

you might be right about the fact that there may have been a problem with my Goldwing on the getting low 30s for gas mileage. But no codes or warning lights..my plugs came out gray, not black when I changed them and they were all the same color… if there was a problem with the oxygen sensor or the mass airflow sensor, if there is one, the plugs would’ve been black, or even wet.. I put a new air cleaner in first thing, because the original owner told me he had never done that and he was not gonna pay the shop for six hours labor just to change the air cleaner.. I thought that was ridiculous when I heard that, until I did the job myself. Six hours is just about right. A pro mechanic that has done the job. A few times could probably do it in under four hours… I think I could’ve done it in around four hours having done the job once already I did see a video of a guy that put a piece of carpet down and laid his Goldwing 1800 over on its side to get the rear wheel out. That’s fine, but I don’t understand why he had to do that if he had a center stand. I removed that panel between the saddlebags where the license plate is attached, I unbolted the rear wheel, and it rolled right out from between the saddlebags. I thought that was very slick. With the way Honda designed that. On my venture, I have to remove both saddlebags to get the rear axle out and the brake caliper off to remove the wheel. Now it only takes a couple minutes to remove each saddlebag once you have them empty on the venture, four screws hold each bag on, no lights , no wiring, no electric remote control blocks on the venture bags, simple.. but I do have to remove both bags to get the rear wheel off the machine.. and I have to use a scissor, jack that I have videos of him on RU-vid to hold the machine up since the venture does not have a center stand. I don’t know why they did that because my first venture had a center stand… My Goldwing was perfect. When I was done, fresh, fork, springs, bushings and seals in the forks, fresh air cleaner, new, spark plugs, flushed the clutch fluid, and the brake fluid, change the coolant, change the final drive oil, change the motor oil and oil filter., changed the rear shock spring to match the fork springs, new OEM vented stock windshield.. I bought all new brake pads for the front and the rear in anticipation of it needing them, but I discovered after I pulled the wheels to put new Dunlop elite four tires on, that the brake pads were fine after 16 years. The machine only had 13 K miles on it when I bought it from the original owner, so I gave the guy I sold it to the two new oil filters I bought for it and the new brake pads that I never used.. I drove past the guy that bought my Goldwing house, and he still has it as of November 2023. I sold it to him in 2021… That was a perfect bike when I sold it. I just didn’t like it.

I commuted as much as possible by motorcycle. I’m guessing when you take into account, weekends, vacation, holidays, really bad weather days, snow days, I was riding, probably around 200 days a year for over 40 years. I enjoyed commuting to work in the rain. You can’t think of nothing else when you’re riding in the rain. I never minded riding home from work in the rain because I always got right in the shower when I got home after work, but I didn’t like riding to work in the rain so much, even though I didn’t really get wet under my rain suit. I had a change of shoes and socks at work, by the way, there is no such thing as waterproof, motorcycle boots, or any boots, not even Gore-Tex. but I would ride to work in moderate to light rain. I’ve been caught at work after a snow a few times, one time there were 6 inches of snow. I spun a little bit. I made it home.. but after all those years of commuting. I can honestly say that riding to work, and home from work was always the best part of the day… commuting to work by motorcycle that only saved me gas, where in tear on my truck. But I got to ride about 125 miles a week just counting the commuting miles… I was fortunate enough to be able to get to and from work using not very busy roads. there was one time when I got to work, I just felt like riding all day. So I went in and told my boss I want to take a vacation day, which I did. I ended up riding up to Lake Erie, and eating the lunch I had packed up there on the beach. Then I came home and told my wife what I did that day instead of going to work, and she was mad because I didn’t take her with me… I was riding my first of three Venture’s that day.. I can’t explain why I prefer the Venture’s to the Goldwing, GL 1800 I had, to the BMW, K 1200 LT that I had. I keep going back to adventure, even though the Goldwing was faster, smoother, not as roomy, and the Goldwing was sort of a gas hog. But the fuel injected six cylinder, just bored me… It was perfect, but I just prefer the Venture’s

there is a problem with guitars that have the angle on the DNG string going over the nut. They tend to go out of tune because of that extreme angle… supposedly, when you buy it, gibson, you get the better quality, wood, and electrics, and Frets, tuners, nut and bridge. The inlays don’t fall out and they are really made of Avalone. The fret ends have the binding going over them, so there’s no fret sprout. If your guitar has binding on the neck.. all that is true. But it’s the little details like the overall finish, or an occasional high front. The ironic part is, gibson owns epiphone.. over the past few years, they made an effort to perfect the EPI brand, and they have. I own several gibson, and Epi les pauls.. I can’t tell them apart, if you handed me all of them while I was blindfolded. I can’t tell the difference in tone, or feel… but I can’t tell the difference in Finnish. The Epi Cust Pro‘s are pretty much flawless, and at less than 25% of the price of the gibson’s… I wouldn’t sell my 1963 gibson 330 TDC, which I have owned since 1968 when I was in high school. I traded my brand new Schwinn bicycle that cost my mother $50 for it I even got the original case with it… but I would sell my 2018 Gibson, Les Paul classic Ebony P 90 model in a minute, because my EPI, Les Paul 56 replica gold top P 90 feels and sounds exactly the same

hey Jesse, nice to hear from you. I was running 36 front/ 41.R tire pressures. I tried running 36F 38 R… I was looking at how my rear tire was wearing. The factory recommends 36 always in the front tire whether you have one or two people on the machine, and 36 rear up to41 rear Maxx depending on the load. so I just dropped to the rear tire pressure to 38 I always run the forks at seven psi The manual recommends you can run zero psi up to seven psi in the forks The manual recommends you can run zero psi up to 57 psi in the shock are usually ran 20 psi in the shock, but I tried 30 psi, which is the highest I ever ran it.. it felt like it was lighter on its feet. It definitely gave a better ride… I wanted to tell you that you can go to a dollar store or a five or less store and buy a turkey baster syringe for putting the oil in the rear shock without spilling a drop. That’s how I do it. when you drained your shock to change the oil. Did you happen to measure it with some thing that told you in cc?? I got out around 124 cc so that’s what I put back in. One of the Venture owners that I have checked out here on RU-vid is in Sweden. He changed his shock oil and I think he told me he got out a little more than 124 cc.. I want to change the fork oil. I keep putting it off because it looks like a pain in the butt to take the fairing off to get at the upper and lower triple clamp bolts to loosen them to let the fork tubes slide out… The reason I think it’s important to change the fork oil and the shock oil, but there are two reasons suspension oil gets cooked and contaminated with the fork springs in there rubbing against the fork sliders, I’m sure that oil breaks down even though the owners manual says it is not necessary to ever change the fork oil.. I was very surprised to see that statement by Yamaha that the oil in the forks never needs changed. They never even mentioned changing the shock oil either in the manual on the service chart.. here is the second reason I believe you need to change the oil in those suspension parts it’s because they are air forks, and an air shock. When you put air in your shock or in your forks, unless you have an air dryer system on your compressed air that you would have if you were using your compressor to paint cars… you are putting water/condensation inside the forks, and in the shock, that water is going to make the fork, springs. Rust, water, and oil do not mix. It’s got to start making corrosion in there. That is why I think it is just as important to change the fork oil, as it is to change the brake fluid and clutch fluid. They get moisture in them also which corrodes your master cylinder, wears out the O-rings, and eventually ends up, making your caliper seize up, and your slave cylinder on your clutch, either seize up or ruin the seal and the piston… I will be making a video of changing the fork oil. While I have the fairing off, I Will clean and re-agrees the steering head bearings also. They take one hell of a pounding… i’m gonna check the steering stem and see if it is a solid cylinder without any holes in it other than the top in the bottom. If it is a cylinder with just a top and a bottom hole, I may put a grease fitting on it… I installed a new set of horns that I thought would be higher pitch in more attention getting on my Venture. They are not nearly as loud as advertised. I’m going to take them off and put on the red Hella freeway blasters I had on my Kawasaki which I sold last month. I put the stock stuff back on the bike and then I put it up for sale so I have those really annoying harsh freeway blaster horns then I will put it on the Venture. I tried to find a place to put them on my Honda auntie700, but I could not find a place to squeeze them in there, and the style corn is not bad on that Honda. don’t forget about going to the store called five or less or some type of a store that would sell a turkey baster that looks like a large syringe. That is a very handy thing to have, when putting the oil into the shock and the forks if you put the oil in when they are on the bike. It’s best to put the oil in the fork tubes with the spring removed, and the fork tube at the bottom pushed all the way in the slider. And put the oil in the fork tube without the spring in there yet, and fill it to 5 inches from the top, slowly put the oil in and work the fork tube in and out of the slider to get the air out. I’m going to put 20 weight fork oil in my forks. that’s what I have in the shock Talk to you later

I just bought a dozen brass valve caps with the tool for tightening and removing Schrader valve cores.. But what you say makes sense as long as they have some thing to seal against a Schrader valve body. Good point thanks.

motorcyclist magazine did an article in the late 1980s about the changes made to car oils. That is when we started to see 5W 20 and then 0W 20 oil‘s. The reason is, the federal government asked petroleum makers, auto makers, how we could get more miles per gallon.. The answer was, make the oil thinner. The thicker the oil, the higher the friction. at that same time, there was a warning to motorcyclist that use oil that much lubricate the transmission, as well as the engine and clutch, and the power take off out of the transmission to turn the driveshaft at a 90° angle.. car oils had the amount of zinc and phosphorus reduced in the late 1980s. The warning that motorcyclist magazine gave to all motorcyclist was, not to use car oils from now on or your wrist. Catastrophic failures of your transmissions. The force on the teeth of transmission gears right around that time with the introduction of the Hayabusa exceeded 100,000 pounds per square inch. The oil is subjected to shearing in transmissions. And increased levels of zinc and phosphorus in motorcycle specific oil protects transmission gears. I have heard of friction modifier’s causing clutches to be ruined, but I do not know of anyone personally, that has ever experienced that unless they put aftermarket additives in the oil which I have never done, and never will do.. adding additives to oil on your own is a little more than risky… it’s sort of like baking a cake in the recipe calls for one egg, but someone comes along and adds a dozen eggs to that recipe. You have a very different outcome… it’s only since the 1970s with suzuki introducing their shaft, drive four cylinder 650 G model that one oil was able to handle all the lubrication duties inside the engine transmission and add that gear connected to the output shaft that spins the Drive shaft. I thought that was quite a step up in metal tempering and in lubrication for oil to be able to stand up to that. Because at the other end of the drive shaft, in the final drive, that’s still calls for 90 weight gear lube… if anyone wants to use regular automotive car oil in their motorcycle, I have no problem with that. Just don’t ask me to do it. If you inspect the gear faces in your transmission, you may find a lot of pitting, and if you have a magnet under your drain oil. When you drain the oil, you may find a hell of a lot more gear, flake, suspended in the oil. A little bit is always going to be present from Transmissions crashing every time they shift gears, and from clutches and clutch baskets with the tabs from the fiber plates sticking up through those gaps in the clutch basket hammering the clutch basket. I have seen how clutch baskets gets so hammered from those tabs on Fiber plates of a clutch that the tabs actually put grooves/dance in the clutch basket requiring it to be replaced because pulling the clutch and doesn’t allow those tabs to slide in that slot that they are indexed into and you can’t always get the clutch to disengage when those tabs get caught into the grooves, they have hammered in the clutch basket.. I can tell when my oil needs changed in my motorcycles. Shifting becomes more difficult, and it becomes more difficult to find neutral. I fell for the sales slogans of Pennsylvania grade crude oil, wolfs head oil about 25 years ago. I thought I would try it in my Honda pacific coast, which was my daily commuter for 25 years… when I got home from work, one day, I pulled the plug in with the oil drain overnight on a Friday night. I refilled the transmission with wolfs head 10W-30 motor oil for cars… The following Monday morning, I started my machine, and headed for work as usual, the bike literally would not shift without attacking the shift lever. I made it to the stop sign at the end of my street, I turned around and went back home. I took one of my other bikes to work that morning. at the end of the day I went home and drained all of that oil after warming it up. I put in regular four stroke motorcycle oil. Shifting was back to normal.. I could not believe what a difference the wrong oil does make.. I have only used motorcycle oil except that one time that I tried wolfs head. But ever since that day, about 25 years ago, I have used nothing but motorcycle specific oil… before they were making motorcycle specific oil, I had a transmission lock up on me on my RZ 350. One of the gears seized to the main shaft. It locked the back wheel, solid, pulling the clutch and does not save you when that transmission locks. When I split the cases, I had seven gears that needed replaced and the main shaft… having a transmission lockup is different from having a piston seizeure.. when a piston locks up, pulling the clutch, and will save you if you’re fast enough. But when a transmission locks, hang on, because you are along for the ride, and wherever your bike goes, it’s taking you with it… I still have that 1989 motorcyclist magazine report on the changes to car oil to get us more miles per gallon in our cars with total disregard for motorcycles. That’s when they recommended never using car oil in transmissions of motorcycles again because you could suffer, catastrophic transmission failures… I have had motorcycles that use 90 weight in the transmissions. My 4 moto guzzi’s.. I actually used Castrol 20 W 50 in my moto guzzi SP 1000.. when I pulled the heads and cylinders on that machine to do an inspection. All four of the cam followers, hard surface coating was pitted severely. The only other time I have seen that was in my 1958 mga on the lifters where they bounce off the cam. That is just about the only place in a pushrod engine. That has the environment of some thing similar to what takes place in a motorcycle transmission. And that is, long time metal to metal sliding surfaces as the cam spins on the lift her face. Pretty close to the same thing as gears slide together applying power, except it is much more severe on the faces of gears when you have 150 hp going through the system applying force to the transmission gears. The camshaft at the lifters only has to fight the spring tension of the valve springs which is constant, the force on transmission gears is not constant, it is widely variable, according to throttle position… I learned years ago when I road raced Motorcycles for eight years, winning six championships, two time national champion. At the factory knows more than I do. I learned that after my first season of modifying my first road, racing machine to death literally. After that, I stuck with exactly the specifications and recommendations of the factory engineers. I finally realized that they know a Little more about it than I do.

I just checked my factory spray on bedliner on my 2017 ram .. It has been seven years since I sprayed under the truck with fluid film. Dad found its way into the bed of my truck through the floor seam that I did not even know it was there… so far so good. I don’t see the factory spray on bedliner, giving up its grip at all due to the penetrations properties of fluid film… I only sprayed under my truck one time back in 2017.. I will be back under the truck to do another annual inspection and if you needed touchups here and there. I’ll make a video.

yes, I bought my harbor freight motorcycle balance stand years ago, I think it was $50, before I used a 20% off coupon I bought 10 lbs of lead stick on weights on eBay. when I could still buy lead weights. I don’t know if you can still buy lead weights it’s been years.. The reason for eliminating lead weights is ,they claim that 5000 tons of lead Weights end up laying in the gutter roadside after falling off of wheels, and eventually that lead ends up in the water supply.. sounds like it could be true.. The good thing about lead weights is, they are much smaller than the composite material weights that replaced lead.. about the difference in size between a dime and a quarter for the same weight.. you have to trim the larger composite material weights to get them to fit on the rim sometimes. And they are tougher material than lead so you can’t just snip them with a pair of diagonals to trim them to fit..

yes, I have had four deer collisions, two in cars, two on motorcycles, one at 70 on my BMW, K 1200 LT, one and 35 on my Honda pacific coast. I was lucky I didn’t go down even time… I do not ride at night anymore if I can help it

this video was my first ride after making the bike fit me and doing some minor maintenance like lubing the clutch and brake lever, pivots and pressure lubing the clutch cable, putting lube in the locks., just giving it a quick service because I could tell the bike had been sitting. at least eight years as it turns out… 29:20 I made additional videos on this bike because the next time after this that I rode the bike, it’s stuck me and I had to abandon the bike 40 miles from home. It turned out that this machine had 2 issues. I thought it only had one problem when it cut out and it turned out to be stabilizer debris in the fuel plugging the gauze, like fuel filter inside the gas tank. you can see in my other videos what I was dealing with inside the tank. I was lucky that I was able to get my whole arm inside the fuel tank through the fuel pump port at the bottom. You gotta watch that sharp edge around that opening. I put electrical tape around it because it was slicing me up pretty good. but I was able to use the scotch bright pad to loosen all of that hardened white debris inside the gas tank. It looked like someone had put a pot on a stove and let the water all cook out of it inside the gas tank. then, after I solved what I thought was the problem with the clogged fuel filter months later after winter because I made this video in November before winter hit here in Pittsburgh, PA USA. It still had that hesitation.so- after doing online research of Honda NT 700 problems. I found articles that said that Honda almost did a worldwide recall on those spark plug caps.. So I replaced the spark plug caps. And now. The machine runs better than I ever expected for a 2010 700. My two Honda pacific coast motorcycles had a claimed 48 hp. This machine has a claimed 71 hp. It feels like it has around 55-60 hp to me.. as Rolls-Royce would say about HP, it has adequate power.. but I have noticed the few times that I have had this machine on the open highway, that the engine feels a little busy at 80 miles an hour, which is as high as I have taken it. I think that’s around 120 K. I don’t like going that fast on the interstate highways. But I took a recent trip with my entire family, kids and grandkids and i rented a big house on the beach seven hours away… I was driving my ram pick up truck, which is like a Cadillac in the comfort department and it has the hemi V-8 engine, 400 hp. but I was in the flow of traffic that at times was going 90 miles an hour for maybe 30 minutes at a time, then I had to dive on the brakes to crawl through construction slow downs ever once in a while. It was a white knuckle drive because I was following my son and his wife and kids in his turbo Acura SUV. I’ll never do that again. When I drove home I said I’ll see you there..I am not gonna try to stay on your back Bumper for seven hours through that traffic at those speeds again. but that trip on my Honda nt700 , the engine I believe it’s tongue would be hanging out doing 120 K for long stretches.. how do you rate the engine at long distance high speed riding? What speeds do you feel The engine is comfortable at covering long distance for hours?? I don’t know because I’ve only just sorted this machine out within the past few hundred miles.. any feedback from someone like yourself that has put the time in the saddle would be very appreciated.. I am grateful to the UK riders videos on RU-vid that turned me on to this machine..

thats actually not how they work. in a nut shell, the ONLY reason you need to balance a tire is that the "heavy spot" on the tire is where the cords overlap start and finish, how else would they know were to put the dot! Balancing beads work because the "heavy spot" is actually the area of the tire that moves the LEAST. SO the beads go everywhere but the "heavy spot" thus balancing out the wight.

@@timothywhieldon1971 you're correct. I tried to post a link to a video explaining the way they work but the link doesn't show. I'd recommend anyone reading this comment to do a search yourself and see how they work, its quite neat.

​@@gregb8824, Will you post the title of the video that you tried to post?

@@RayfordRaySiegel "Can beads really balance tyres? A full test and explanation how they work"

@@gregb8824, I have some that I want to put in my tubeless spoked wheel, on my Sportster. I appreciate it. Thanks

do you think they work better than weights..?? Do you have tire pressure monitors inside your wheels?

@@Jodyrides I don't think they work better than weights but I'm not set up to balance tires so these beads give a little peace of mind. I have a royal star tour deluxe with no TPS. It's an old guy bike as you know so I don't take it to the limit and have never felt the balance beads have left me wanting for wheel weights. I just changed my tires out today and they are worn very evenly throughout the entire tread of the tire. If you're up to it I'd love to see more videos of the maintenance done to it. Things like valve clearance and spline maintenance. Whatever your up to on it, if you've got the inclination to video I'll certainly watch!

@@gregb8824 Greg, I bought this machine and fall of 2021. I didn’t start making videos until after I had already done the valve check which I’m glad to say they were all within spec. I don’t know if I did a video on lubing the driveshaft splines where they plug into the u joint.. I will tell you this. On the left side of your machine, on top of the swing arm right near the swing arm adjustment, nuts.. there is a rubber plug on top of the swingarm tube on the left side. You can almost get your finger inside that when you remove the rubber plug. You’re going to need to remove that plug so you can hold the universal joint still and straight to allow the driveshaft to slide back in to the universal joint yolk… it took me about two hours to figure out how to get that yuck to hold still instead of just flopping straight down when I had the driveshaft removed to lube the splines.. on the final drive and of the drive shaft. There is a spring about 2 inches long, about 3/8 of an inch in diameter. It’s a pretty heavy duty spring. That thing is going to want to go straight to China when you pull the Final drive housing off of the drive shaft. There’s only four bolts holding the Final drive housing to the swing arm. You might wanna have somebody there or maybe put some rags on the floor and slowly separate that final drive from the swingarm after removing those four nuts. That spring just sits there between the driveshaft end and the short splined shaft, sticking out of the final drive that indexes with the driveshaft.. I was lucky, I caught that spring, rolling across the floor under my workbench out of the corner of my eye. Otherwise, I would never have known there was supposed to be a spring in there. I suppose that is to push the driveshaft forward and keep a little bit of tension on it, pushing it towards the engine did you see the video I have for checking the side play of the swingarm? they give you torque specs for those large nuts on the ends of the swingarm on the outside of the frame. Mine were blocked from getting a socket on it by the exhaust system.. I thought that was a shaft that goes straight through the frame, then the swing arm than the frame again and with a large nut on the end. That is not the set up. I could be wrong, but this is how I did it. I took that stub out, which is a thick shaft that the swingarm bearings roll on. There are two of them, one on each side. The instructions on the Internet are confusing. But I thought about it and here is how I did it. on the left side, the side with the kickstand. When I removed that , Let’s call it a bolt with no threads. It is a smooth shaft that the bearings roll on. On the left side, you put that in the frame after you have cleaned and greased the swingarm bearings which are in the swing arm… you put the left side in first, and tighten the nut down all the way to. I think it’s 70 pounds of torque. You’re done on the left side then. Then you go to the right side. This is where the adjustment is made. There is a hex drive in the center of the shaft/bolt that screws into the frame. They give you a torque setting of something like 5 pounds to put on that small bolt that you turn with a hex wrench. Once you have put a small amount of torque on it, then you tighten the large nut on the right to 70 pounds or whatever it is and you’re done. now, in my video, I show that there is side play of about A 16th of an inch side to side when I checked mine while I had the bike up on my red lift stand, and the rear wheel was removed.. you can see that in the video I don’t think it is that critical to twerk that hex adjustment not to a specific torque. I think you just need to snug it down so there is no lateral movement and then tighten the large nut and you’re done. You just want to ensure that the swing arm will move up and down freely after you clean and grease the bearings.. and the reason, I am guessing, that you tighten the left side down solid first is because, that keeps the swingarm in line so the drive shaft spins true at the universal joint, the adjustment is on the right side, that is so that you can loosen that to get the swing arm off and out of the frame. You can’t have a tight fitting swing arm, and still get The swingarm out of the frame. You have to give it some FreePlay to be able to maneuver the swingarm, and that FreePlay comes from the adjustment on the right. Tightening that center screw with a hex wrench I think it’s 8 mm to such a low torque setting just make sure that there’s no slop side to side in the movement of the swing arm. so to go over that again, you clean and grease your swingarm bearings that are in the swing arm, you have both of the pivot bolts removed. You had to take them out to get the swing arm out.. to put the mess back together when it’s all clean and greased, you put the swingarm in the frame, and start the left bolt first, and then the right one, then you tighten the left bolt down to 72 pounds of torque and you’re done on the left side. You take up the side to side play in the swing arm on the right side by tightening that hex nut to a very light torque setting I think it’s 10 pounds which is nothing. That just ensures there is no side to side play in the swing arm. then you tighten that large nut down to 72 pounds or 70 pounds of torque and you’re done.. when you’ve done that, then comes the fun part, trying to get your cleaned and greased drive shaft into the j universal joint female splines after you’ve used molybdenum grease on the splines.. it’s a bitch until you stick a screwdriver into that hole on the driveshaft tube to study the universal joint. It took me about 10 minutes to get the driveshaft back in once I discovered that hole in the swing arm with the rubber plug in it to steady the you joint so you can slide the driveshaft in. It really would help if you had three hands.. and don’t forget about that very stiff spring that goes between the shaft coming out of the final drive that the universal joint connects to, and the driveshaft itself.. it really would help if you had one of these motorcycle scissor lift jacks that I bought on eBay. I bought mine in 2018 or 2019 so I could do this kind of work on my Goldwing. I don’t see how you can do this swingarm maintenance without having a jack to hold the bike up level..

The stock cables were plenty long enough. I didn’t have to buy any cables or either of the wire harness control switches. Those shielded wire harnesses were also long enough… One little thing when you install risers or handlebar clamps. Set the cap on something level to see which end, the part that the bolt goes through is thicker.. There is always a thicker one that goes to the front. You start both bolts when you were clamping down the handlebars.. once you have them, both started, you torque the front one down all the way first, then the back one. There will always be a gap in the back. But there is never a gap at the front between the perch, saddle where the handlebars fit in, and the clamp that holds the bars down in the saddle.. The risers I have on my bike in this video are made by ROX.. be sure to buy bar risers for 7/8 inch handlebars. The handlebars on the Kawasaki Z 400 are 7/8” OD.. some people make the mistake of buying handlebar risers for 1 inch handlebars. I just wanted to remind you not to make that mistake. it’s easy to do Good luck

@@Jodyrides Thank you for that information and fast response.

thanks Jesse. You remove the air hose to the shock, turn the shock upside down and let it drain overnight if possible, let it drain into a measuring cup if you can go to a dollar store and get one for a dollar. Then note how much oil you get out, and put that amount back in. Mine took whatever I said, in the video, I think it was 124 cc, a guy from Sweden said that he got a little more out of his. that oil in the shock really gets caulked. That’s why it turns black. I was going to lube the chain on a race bike during a 24 hour race. I was in years ago, my duty, for the first pitstop was to lube the chain. I put my hand on the shock. Well, I was stooping down to spray the chain, and it burned my hand, that is how hot those shocks get so they do Cook that oil .. I changed my oil in the shock about A year later, and the oil that came out was also very dark and it only had about 2000 miles on it. Don’t forget to Loubier washings with white lithium grease, especially where those two dog bone linkage plates slide together. They were a source of a squeak I was chasing a couple years ago. They were dry.

@@Jodyrides hey there. Turns out that I had 160 cc of fluid in my rear shock. Because of my size and weight, I got 10 weight fork oil to accommodate my 6’4”, 230 size. Anyway, just wanted to update you on the amount of fork oil I got.

thanks for the update on the amount of oil you got out of your Royal star venture shock.. as for the forks. I contacted Dave Moss , The motorcycle suspension guru in Australia.. I explained to him my weight and The way I ride and the roads that I ride on and the speed at which I ride.. I asked him for advice on fork, oil, weight and amounts.. Dave pointed out that the amount of oil can be adjusted to personal preference depending on the ride you want.. he suggested 20 weight fork, 5 inches down from the top of the fork tube with the fork tube completely pushed all the way into the bottom of the fork leg - slider.. in the Yamaha owners manual that everyone gets with their bike when they buy it new. On the maintenance chart with all the recommendations for what needs serviced and when. In the forks oil section, Yamaha says that the fork oil never needs changing… As far as going by the owners manual and the shop manual service recommendations, I tend to overdo it. I will change the oil sooner than recommended in the engine, I will change brake fluid and clutch fluid sooner than recommended, they never mention changing the shock oil. so your manual says you never need to change the fork oil, and I disagree with that just says I disagreed for this reason- These machines have air suspension. We put air into the suspension forks and shock. Depending on where you live, and depending on whether or not, you have a dryer system attached to your compressor to take the moisture out of the air, you are putting air that has condensation in it in your shock and forks every time you put air in. that air with condensation in it.. Water and oil don’t mix. I don’t know what the effect of having water in the forks and shock is, but that moisture will definately make fork springs rust.. that rust flake off and get moved around in the forks which are like a piston sliding up / down inside a critical precision machined matched set of parts with lots of stress ..fork oil gets cooked and contaminated.. adding water and corrosion from rusting fork springs cant do any good that i can imagine.. dave moss recommended changing fork oil in any motorcycle at 5,000 miles ( i think that was his recommendation) every time I changed fork oil in any machines I ever owned, that stuff came out, looking like graphite/black with streaks of silver gray liquid in it.. when I drained my Venture shock for the first time, that oil was black. Obviously cooked. When I changed The shock oil in my Venture for the second time a year later, it was black again. The oil I put in was 20 weight, synthetic, fork, oil, transparent blue in color. I don’t know if that was residue left in the shock from the 13 years since the shock was new being mixed in with the second batch of clean oil. But I did feel a difference in the ride after the first oil change in the shock. you mentioned that you got 160 cc of oil out of your shock on your royal star venture. I wonder if a lot of that difference between my 124 cc and your 160 cc could have been added moisture just from condensation in the air..?? I keep putting off changing my fork oil for one reason or the other. But I am going to do it and I’m going to make a video. It’s not that tough. It looks like I have to remove the front part of the fairing to get at the clamp bolts for the forks, if you do that yourself make sure you loosen the caps on top of the fork tubes. While the forks are clamped into the clamps on your steering stem. Because trying to get that cap loose after you have your forks on the bench is almost impossible, unless you clamp them in a vice between two pieces of wood. Just make sure you loosen, not remove, but just loosen the nuts on top of the fork tubes before you completely slide them out of the steering stem.. i’m just going to turn the forks over and allow them to drain them. I’m not going to remove the fork tubes from the fork sliders if I can help it. I never did venture forks before, so I don’t know how they go back together yet,. But, if you have to remove the fork tubes, you have to sort of slide hammer the seals wipers, and the fork bushings out like a slide hammer. And there’s where the problem arises if you don’t have the tools for re-inserting the fork bushings… I have some fork, bushing replacement tools for tapping the bushings back into the top of the slider below the fork seals. but I just want to change the oil.. I’m not going to replace the fork seals for the fork Dust wipers. So I’m not gonna disturb them. I’m just gonna remove the forks and turn it upside down and pour the oil out, then I’m going to remove the spring, compress the fork tube down into the slider and refill the forks until the oil comes up to within 5 inches of the top without the spring in there… you have to make sure that you pump the fork tube in and out of the slider to remove all the old oil.. then again to remove the air that will be trapped down in the slider before you declare them filled to within 5 inches of the top with the fresh oil at which time after the air is all out, which may take a little time to allow the air bubbles to escape, after pumping the forks in and out. Then extend the fork tube ,reinsert your cleaned, fork, springs, use dielectric grease on the O-ring on the cap of the fork to before you install it, put a little bit of fork oil on the outside of the fork tubes so that it will lubricate the dust seal and the fork seal a bit.. Then just slide the forks back into the steering stem at the same height that they were in originally, and torque the bolts with a torque wrench. While you’re at it, clean and relubricate your dust seals protecting your front wheel bearings, and feel the rotation of your wheelbearings with your fingers to make sure that they are rolling. Nice and smooth… it’s really not a difficult job. I believe you just have to remove the front of the fairing around the headlight from behind the fairing near your speaker grills. I’ve never done it. But that’s how it appears to me to get to the clamps that hold the forks in the steering stem. 5 inches from the top of a compressed fork tube all the way down into the slider without the spring in there. Dave recommended 20 wt fork oil as a starting point. He said you can try Les oil next time, you can try different weight oil. But he stressed the fact that that oil is shot after about 5000 miles. I’ll make a video when I do mine..

@@Jodyrides you’re welcome on the 160cc. Your explanation on servicing the forks was a very interesting read. However, my understanding of motorcycle mechanics is limited to basic maintenance, like what I learned from you and others. Servicing the forks comes out to roughly $600. USD, labor alone. Unfortunately, I don’t have the time nor the tools along with patience to take on such a project, but thanks for explaining it though, I like knowing what’s being done. BTW, I’m in Southern California, 45 miles east of Los Angeles so not much humidity when I add air to the forks as compared to other locations like Florida, as an example. I am planning on updating the spring to progressive ones while they’re servicing the forks. What’s your opinion on the different brands? Are there rates on spring? I’m 6’4”, 230 lbs. so I want to make sure I get the right equipment for my personal dimensions. I’ll also make sure that the fork oil is around 20 weight, like you mentioned. Thanks again for your in-depth explanations, it makes for very enlightening reading. Jesse

I have had five motorcycles with sound systems, three ventures, a BMW, K 1200 LT, and a Goldwing. I never turn the radio on. In fact, when I sold my Goldwing in 2021 to buy my current Venture, I did not know how to turn it on, or to demonstrate that it worked to the new buyer. We had to go on RU-vid to learn, it was in mute, so thank goodness for RU-vid. I wondered why this machine came with speakers. But I can tell you, they will never utter a sound. The engine makes all the Music I want to hear.

Ha, ha🤣 I understand, had a sound system on my ‘92 bmw k 1200 lt. It would fall out every now and then, but man, cruising into Hannover, in Germany, rocking Queen, with people staring at you, priceless🤣🤣

Jesse, which machine extenders. I don’t believe that there are handlebar risers or setbacks on my Venture in the video that this message is attached to… The only things that are on the handlebars on the Venture are the original factory handlebar “ bar end weights”.. if that’s what you’re referring to. They came on the bike from Yamaha, so they are an OEM (original equipment manufacturer) item…. when I bought my Venture used in 2021, it did not have the bar and weights. It had those fancy aftermarket grips that look like their chromed with rubber pads attached to the grips. I wanted to put heated grips on the Venture, so I ended up buying a set of used bar and weights on eBay/used. I think I paid 25 bucks for a pair. There are always available used on eBay.. but here’s the possible glitch. What is someone changed the handlebars on your machine? Then they won’t have the threaded end on the handlebars for you to screw in the handle bar end weights.. if that’s what you mean by extenders.. if you’re talking about handlebar razors, or setbacks on my Kawasaki, Z 400 or on my Honda NT 700 , I have combination handlebar risers/setbacks on my Honda that I bought on eBay. I think they were $20 or $30 free shipping …They move the handlebars up 1.5 inches and they move them back 1.5 inches. So they are a combination risers and setbacks… they are generic for 7/8” diameter handlebars on the Honda. I actually had those items on my Kawasaki for a while. on my Kawasaki, hi later installed a set of ROX brand handlebar risers that move the handlebars up, I think around 3 inches. And they have a feature that allows you.to rotate the risers forward in the handlebar perch, attached to the original, handlebar perchs at which ever angle you prefer them to be at by rotating the knob that goes into the part of the perch, where the handlebars were originally mounted/clamped.. with those ROX handlebar risers/setbacks, the setback angle is whatever you choose within a range of I’m guessing 45° back, and 30° forward.. that’s just where they mount to the upper triple clamp perch, then you can rotate your bars in the now extended perch/clamp at the top of the bar risers.. when I sold my Kawasaki, I put the machine back to stock pretty much with those accessories like the bar risers, horn, Seat, and I still have those bar risers made byROX that I want to put on my Honda nt700 .. but I ran into a little glitch. The original Honda upper clamps that squeeze the handlebars and hold them into the perch, is a one piece item they came on the Honda from the factory, holding the handlebars firmly in the perch.. at least, I think it is the factory item because it has the word Honda embossed/cast into that part that clamps the handlebars down and has the four holes in it for the bolts to go through that squeeze the handlebars.. i’m not positive that’s a Honda item in spite of it having the word Honda on it because, when I bought the NT700, it had a HELI- BAR brand combination riser/setback peace on the machine when I bought it. I did not notice that it was an aftermarket item. It just appeared to be stock when I first looked at the machine to buy it, so I paid no notice. It was only later that I noticed that that was not a factory item. It is literally hey solid block of aluminum that they must add a CNC machine produce this thing. It raises the bars about three or 4 inches, and then it moves them back. Also, I don’t know how much may be a couple inches… I removed that solid block of aluminum that weighed something like 4 or 6 pounds.. I did weigh it but I forget how much it weighed. I replaced that with the one and ahalf inch up, and one and ahalf inch back generic handlebar risers that I bought on eBay for around 20 or $30 on the Honda… I thought that was a bit silly to have that solid heavy block of aluminum just to raise the handlebars a little bit. So I took it off and replaced it with those riser/setbacks that only way a few ounces each… I believe my Honda and my Kawasaki both had the original standard OEM handlebars, and both of those machines come with those bar and weights which have threads inside the ends of the handlebars to attach those weights.. That’s something you may, or may not, probably not get when you buy aftermarket handlebars. Whenever buying something like that, whether it’s bar, risers or setbacks or grips, or even handlebars themselves, always make sure that you get the diameter of handlebar that all of your switches and grips and your handlebar perch on your upper triple clamp fit. The bars on the Venture are 1 inch OD.. The bars on the Honda and Kawasaki or 7/8 inches OD.. I have those ROX brand handlebar risers in several of my Kawasaki videos. I believe I paid around $70 for those things about 10 years ago or possibly longer. They come in just aluminum color or I have seen them black. They are made out of some super Duper fancy aluminum type, and they are a very high-quality maid item.. they look like some thing that national would have made for the space station, no rough edges anywhere.. if this doesn’t answer your question, let me know which machine you are referring to when you ask where I got the extenders. And could you be a little more specific about the terminologie.. when you say extender, am I talking about the same part but I’m calling it a bar end weight?? just so we’re on the same page, the part that moves the handlebars up in the perch, or back in the perch, I call that part a bar riser/ or. Bar riser / set back.. i’ve never heard of any part associated with handlebars as being referred to as extenders, so I’m not 100% sure which item you are asking about. Different countries use different terms at times.. let me know if I answered your question or not.. jody..

@@Jodyrides hello Jody and thanks for your prompt response. I’m sorry for not being specific in my first post to you. Your RSV handlebar clamps that connect your handlebars to the steering column, is what I’m referring to. The 2 clamps appear to be aftermarket. It looked like to me that they raise your bars up a bit more than mine. You answered my question though when you thoroughly explained that you didn’t make any modifications to your handlebars. Thank you. Jesse

tell me about maintenance issues you had with your machine Kevin. I’m just learning about this machine. What can I expect? I get the feeling this machine does not like to go at speeds much above 75 mph/120 kph.. have you had the same experience. It’s not that the machine starts to run poorly, it’s just that I noticed that there is a harmonic extra vibe that begins around that time… I remember the hawk GT 650. It was on sale here in the United States. No fairing, no bags, single-sided swingarm. I had one for a while that I found by accident while working one day, someone heard that I had it, and it’s sold before I ever got a chance to get acquainted with it. When someone offers me a lot more money for a machine than I have in it, I have to let it go. I did get to ride it around the block though, and it felt a little small for me. but I remember there were magazine articles about a guy that was trying to road race, one of those machines, and he kept having crankshaft failures. That was the first time I ever heard the word harmonics when motorcycles were being discussed. That machine somehow had vibrations that were eventually self-destructive to that engine that someone had declared that it was harmonics. In other words, it was just not designed to spin the crankshaft at those speeds.. I don’t intend to take this machine Road racing, but I may want to go 600 miles in one day on the high-speed interstates here.. The highest speed limit here that I know of I 75 mph on the interstate I guess that’s around 120 K. But last summer I went about seven hours away on the interstate to the ocean, and I was just keeping up with the surrounding traffic, and the times we were nearly doing 90 mph/ 145 kph.. my pick up with the V-8 hemi engine was just loafing at that speed, but I was all white knuckles, because the traffic was just too close for those speeds and my comfort level.. know if I was on my MT700 at those just keeping up with the flow speeds of the surrounding traffic, it’s tongue would be hanging out.. do you have the same experience on your machine at those speeds??

@@Jodyrides Hi Jody,to answer your questions not being mechanically minded i have my bike serviced at the Honda Dealers. Max speed here in the UK on Motorways etc is 70mph and at that speed and probably a little above there is absolutely no issues at all. Iam told that the engine is bomb proof and used extensively by couriers in cities like London and they rack up in excess easily of over 100,000 miles. Wishing you happy and trouble free riding Kevin.

most people think they have a bent frame. But if the road is installed correctly with a civil engineer, making sure it’s done correctly, the road is crowned, meaning, the highest part of the road is in the middle to force water to drain off of the Road to the sides

I wouldn’t go as far as to call them garbage. They do keep out rocks and birds.

There are no markings on this bead breaker… I used to see them advertised for sale quite often in motorcycle magazines. I will search for that information on the Internet and I will add it to my posting…

hey Ray. The camera is an AKASO BRAVE 6 PLUS.. it got better write ups than the newer models of that camera on RU-vid by people that review cameras. I think I paid $139 for it but they only have them on Amazon. They have not made this model camera for some time… it comes with a whole pile of attachments for connecting it to things. Two batteries, and a charger that charges two batteries at once. It takes up to 64G microSD cards. I am not a good geek and I was making mistakes like forgetting to put in the settings that I was using an external microphone which you have to buy separately for around $10, and it works very well. And I was forgetting to turn on the picture stability which is very noticeable for making the picture steady while on the motorcycle. The only thing I don’t like about it is, it records until it has 5G of information recorded, then it automatically starts making another video. So instead of a 30 minute video, I end up getting three 10 minute videos.. that’s not a problem for people that know how to merge two videos together. I’m not one of those people yet. But I have been trying. Ray I’m still waiting to see you go gold panning out there where it’s just laying around and dried up creek beds, and in the ripples of culverts that go under the roads. Especially after all the snow, the West Coast got over last winter and all the rain the West Coast had this past winter into spring. That’s stirred up gold.. some people are saying that there’s so much gold laying around that has been moved by the water, it’s just like the 49ers first discovered gold back in the 1800s.. I would also like to see some videos of Mexican food you can buy from vendors you pass on your motorcycle. I just put a video on of the great tacos here just outside Pittsburgh that I’ve been eating for years and years, the best I’ve ever found.. I enjoy your videos. Ray, you have something for making videos, you come across in video very well… I think someone would discover you if you would make some videos and present them to the right people, or, just keep putting them on RU-vid until they discover you

I am planning to do an accurate gas mileage report on RU-vid for the Honda NT.. I was out for about four hours today on my Venture, but Sunday/tomorrow I hope to take the Honda out, depending on the possible rain .. I can report it, so far, I am really digging this Honda nt700.. I really don’t have any complaints yet, there are no heat issues yet, there’s no seat issues, there’s no shifting issues, there’s no break issues call me there’s no handling issues.. it feels and runs like a brand new motorcycle.. I like it so much, and it has been so Pleasant and comfortable to ride, that I sold my Kawasaki, Z 400.. I thought that was going to happen if the Honda ended up being as nice as I hoped..

I think the 1500 gold wings or the most beautiful of all the gold wings including the new 2024s.. when I was shopping for a used Goldwing in 2018, I was actually shopping for the 1500 Goldwing. I wanted a wine berry color/cherry red one. They always look like 1 million bucks to me. But the 2002 that I ended up buying showed up on craigslist., with only 13 K miles on it for sale by the original owner. He just lost interest and wanted to buy a 4 x 4 quad for hunting. He had never had anything but the oil changes done to it. So I had my work cut out everything from fork, seals, fork, springs, fork, oil, final drive oil, rear, shocks, spring, tires, clutch and brake fluid, air filter., Spark plugs, cables, lubed, all pivots, greased, and I had to Mouse proof the airbox. When I opened up the air cleaner box, I could see that mice were living in there, that is very common… I actually put a video on RU-vid of how I mouse proofed my air box. It’s on RU-vid under my other screen name that I started making videos with. But I don’t use that name anymore. The title of the video is three words.” Goldwing made mouseproof”… That’s my yellow gold wing taken apart in that short video showing how to put metal quarter inch screening over the intake trumpets on the airbox.. when I was done, I thought that machine was perfect, except for the four-way flasher module, which was a problem for many many people, when you would push the button in front of your left knee, the you couldn’t turn the four ways off.. I ended up, driving home, almost 100 miles with my four ways on at night. I stopped by the side of the road, call of nature, and I put my four ways on, when I headed back home I couldn’t turn them off, so I had to ride all the way home with my four-way is flashing… when I started doing research online, it turns out that is a common problem with that particular item on the 1800s around that year. That thing ain’t cheap either that unit costs hundreds of dollars used on eBay… I think that module new is over $600, at least it was back in 2018.. other than that, I thought the machine handled very well, had exceptional brakes, it was eerily smooth, it shifted like butter even though the shifter was a bit sloppy, because when I bought the machine, it had aftermarket floorboards on it, which can be a big problem, because, it says, in the owners manual to never put floorboards on a Goldwing. If you have transmission problems on a Goldwing in a year that the manual says not to put floorboards on, they will not cover it under warranty because they told you in the manual not to put the floorboards On… After I put the new fork and shock spring on the bike, so very light on its feet. It rotated like a machine to Weighed half that much… I did find it a bit cramped, it felt like the dashboard was right there in my face, practically, and I couldn’t move back as much as I wanted to, but it really wasn’t a problem. I’m only 5‘11“ tall. But for someone that’s over 6 foot, that would be cramped… The bike was perfect. I really didn’t have any complaints, but the thought of working on it for something serious, like I had to pull the engine and split the cases, or if I had electrical issues with that mass of cables under the engine, cover, and under the seat and going through the right saddlebag to all the lighting in the back, mounted in the trunk, and in all the bodywork and in the saddlebags. There was nothing simple about it. That’s what I Was avoiding, major problems, that I didn’t want to have to sort out on such a complex machine. That’s the only reason I sold it, there was nothing wrong with that bike, it was perfect, as long as I didn’t use the four-way flashers.