Greetings Earthlings! Here you'll find fettling and tinkering with motorbikes, a stock car meeting or two, a spot of fishing, an occasional car show and other miscellaneous jiggery pokery!
BSA C15s never have that problem.... I came back from Lulworth Cove to Basildon on an A10 in a howling gale and heavy rain, it went onto one pot, I pulled onto the hard shoulder, with the throttle all the way open, and whatever was wet dried out and suddenly away we went, for about 400 yards, one pot, 200 yards, cut back in. It got me home.
Lulworth cove, beautiful place, I was down there summer 2022, sadly commercialised compared to my boyhood memories, but the natural beauty was unchanged.
I can start my bike with touching both contacts on the solenoid after pulling their plastic covers back, so my solenoid, starter motor and battery are fine but starter button doesn't do anything, usually if I were to forget pulling the clutch before starting It would crank for a second then it would stop but now the button doesn't do anything at all, I tried checking the cable connections between the starter button and the solenoid then checking all the sensor that wouldn't let the engine start but I cannot do all that at home, the thing is this problem wasn't there before a rain that took an hour, I thought starter button and the sensors wouldn't be affected by the rain since I am supposed to able to ride my bike in the rain, like a lot of British people do?
I don't really know quads, but if it were mine I'd kinda work backwards from the sparkplug until I found the fault, like start by trying a new/different plug if not the plug, then the cap, if not the cap then the HT lead, like that. Coil packs can be a common failure though.
Cheers for the video , on the insurance thing they put up premiums even if it’s not your fault due to the fact having gone through t once apparently makes you more likely to claim in the future ? Seems like a scam to me
I'm not sure, I think it was a home build of some sort. The engine was a very old Norton, but fuel tank reminds of those ridiculous small capacity Fantic choppers from the era of Easy Rider.
Battery is new starter relay is new starter motor new, all i get is a click from the starter relay when pressing the starter button and everything goes off then comes back on. Contacts are fine and theres power at the switch, stupid question would a broken brake switch prevent it from cranking?
I wouldn't expect a broken brake switch to cause that. Sounds more like a sticking solenoid, a sticking starter motor or a poor earth, maybe at the starter motor. Sometimes tapping the starter with a rubber mallet or dead-blow hammer will free it temporarily, which would reveal if that was the fault.
Thanks for the sub and for the helpful suggestion. I think you are the first person to make this fair point. On my bike here a few lights ( neutral, oil pressure) come on with the key and the headlight main beam comes on too.
I have good new battery; no kill switch; ( that I see) and no click or noise when starter button is pressed. I took apart the starter button assembly and sprayed heavily with elec cleaner. Heeelp! 🥴
Have you followed through the advice in my video step by step? This is the best advice I've got! Check solenoid and earth strap in starter motor. Good luck.
Will a motorcycle start with the kick start if electric starter is not cranking for nothing? I was thinking of touching solenoid with insulated screwdriver but I'm afraid of messing up starter or something on the bike. Thanks for the video any feedback appreciated
It really depends on the actual fault, but I don't see that you can do any harm trying to kick start a bike, so long as the engine turns over and there is nothing mechanical snapped or broken. If when you turn the ignition on you've got power it's worth trying this. Good luck.
Geez I've been putting the spring on wrong for the last 20k miles, looks like it goes under the filter not on top, Thanks for the vid. I use Mobile1 15/50 oil full synthetic with no problems as advised from a huge motorcycle shop here in the states. The 10/40 on cap was the best weight they had at the time in 1980, Cheers.
Glad the video was of help. Re the spring, I have the workshop manual, and just followed that. With regard to oil choice, there sure is plenty of opinions out there. I ran Torco 10/40 mineral at first, because my buddy had used it in his Honda 750 to very high mileage and it still ran like a sewing machine. I switched to the semi synthetic for the reason you hint at, that the modern oil technology is better, but I avoid the fully synthetic partly because it is more expensive for little gain. The oil weight I think is quite climate specific, and the 10/40 seems OK here in the UK. The bike, by the way, came from Iowa. Happy riding!
@@Mr_CMH sorry bro - I am terrible smart ass! Austinado was correct in suggesting an INFRARED TEMP GUN. They are cheap! You use it on the exhaust pipe exiting the head. Higher temp means running Lean. LEAN= MORE AIR/LESS FUEL. A lean machine will idle high, pop on Rev. GOOD luck!
Thank you too bad you didnt show how to assembly it it tool mé half hour to put lever wire back to handle, i had broke both spring holder i drilled hole through plastic and use metric screw with and now its work.
Thanks, it's always satisfying to me to give an item a second life. On the topic of sea bream, I ate one last week...but that was in Rhodes. Pretty tasty though!
Thanks for the reply the only way I look at them is to the way they changed the handles and the washers in the older 1970 reels the washer after the star had a funny shape washer that could be locked I think by 80 they done away with that but that all I have and 70s 9000and 10..000 had thd round knob on habdle
Yeah, you're not the first person to mention that to me. The reel came from a derelict tackle shop (see the video on my channel if you are interested) so it may have been a 'bitsa' put together there. If you have information or ideas about dating these reels please feel free to share it here.
You're very welcome. The carrots were an addition to the usual routine in our garden, and some of them, amazingly, grew to edible proportions. Last year the tomatoes were OK, the courgettes were often eaten by snails before they could get going, but (as usual) we did have a big crop of raspberries.
Cheers Harry, I'm sure you would have been very interested, and moved too. Besides the outdoor area there's a museum and educational centre indoors. It's so important that youngsters are kept aware of these events.
ABU changed from 4 screw to 3 screw sometime between 1967 and 1968, so 4 screw dates it to pre '68. I kind of wish I'd never made this video, because pre 70s the reels were sometimes given sequential serials, and the serial systems are not always straightforward. As I say in the video "the most common form is"...not the only form.
Dear MITCHELL OTOMATIC owners araound the world ; do yourself a big vavor : Keep your otomatics stored with bail in OPEN position ; open bail means relaxed bailspring !
Very helpful video i might check my 2008 v strom 650 with your method as i have some starting problems recently (not always). I have also cleaned the start button-headlight switch. So for the test you connect one cable to positive battery and one to the negative battery and with these two cables check inside the fuse i didnt quite understand. Because i thought the solenoid receives only positive?
I'm pleased it was helpful. I think of the solenoid like a switch. The starter button completes a circuit which then throws that switch (inside the solenoid) by activating the solenoid. The positive feed through the solenoid goes to the starter motor, and the starter motor is earthed to the frame, as is the negative terminal of the battery. Hey presto, complete circuit, and the starter motor turns. The starter button is not the actual flow to the starter motor, rather it is just a circuit that activates the solenoid, which completes the actual circuit to the starter motor.....if you follow.... Ultimately they all earth to the negative terminal of the battery, frequently by connecting to the frame, or a wire that connects to the frame.
The bike leaping forward means it's still in gear. If you have the clutch pulled in it shouldn't happen unless there is something wrong with the clutch, like a broken clutch cable. In that case it's not an electrical fault, which is what I'm covering in this video.
Great little amp, I have one of these. There's a few reviews on line for this, I think it's becoming a bit of a collectible gem, one of the best small practice amps ever some say
I learned to fish on the Witham, and I know that peg quite well, though I haven't done any angling for over 30 years! I mainly used a waggler: typically a 4lb main line with a 1.8lb bottom, small hooks and red maggots to catch roach, rudd and hybrids. I never really mastered bream fishing, though I remember bagging up on roach one winter using a stick float trotted down the side. I fished for 7 hours and caught a fish every single chuck. I have no idea how she fishes these days!
Thanks for sharing your memories. If you have a look on my channel I have a couple of other videos fishing the Witham nearer to Tattershall. We bagged up on bream on one of those sessions, on the feeder. There is also a video of some roach and rudd fishing on the Sibsey Trader and piking on the Trader too, if you are interested and can scroll back a bit.
I've had same one for a few years also, I like it but had same issues as you I guess, love the look of it! ...they seem to be sold out everywhere now so not sure why they still advertise them!? 🤷♂️
Thanks for the comment. The helmet is still going strong. Recently I've bought a HJC CS15 full face in satin finish black and orange too. Happy biking!
Bro you're sticking your finger in the electrical with the hot wire plugged into the battery. Disconnevt the negative on the battery when you're working on electrical
I have 2 6500s I bought in 1996. They have 040004 stamped in the bottom. Not sure what that means. Maybe they were made 8 years after I bought them in a year that had no months in it.
Yeah, that's somewhat unlikely, maybe possible with a time machine. To be fair, I was dealing with ABUs from the 70s, and even then the factory seemed to have a bewildering array of serial number schemes. In my further defence I do say that this is just "the most common form" for numbering. If your research turns up the full information I'd be pleased to know more.
Shocking, innit! You're not far wrong with the menu here tonight. Limited! Wish I'd brought a rod and line, even a net would have worked. Mostly they were what I call "St Peter's bream", they have a black 'thumb print' on the base of the tail, where they were held by St Peter, so the story goes.
'Wisdom' is that ride on lawnmower batteries last 2 years, that has proved to be the case. Years ago, I knew a chap whose first job was in a 'battery factory'. They would remove the top of the battery, which were sealed in with some sort of pitch, remove the plates and wash out all the 'salts' that clog the bottom of the plates. Generally, all that was then needed was some of the plates scrubbing clean and the battery being put back together, filled and charged and they were good for another couple of years. However, that is all a thing of the past, and 'servicing' has been reduced to topping up liquid and charge from time to time. Progress.
This battery has exceeded it's service life, but I am somewhat thrifty, if I can squeeze a little longer out of it, all to the good. Funnily enough the Chinese 'Leoch' branded battery on my Honda is doing well. It's Absorbent Glass Mat technology. Leoch, it transpires, are one of the world's largest motive battery manufacturers. Golf carts, milk floats and the like. One third the cost of a similar Yuasa for the Honda. Made in China, available everywhere, like most things these days.