Welcome to my Basement Projects. I'am a hobby machinist und DIY guy. If you can't do something then you are lacking the right tools or the right skills. I want to be able to do anything. That's why i'm collecting all the tools and skills possible.
My main topic here will be the modification and creation of tools and machines. I will try to learn as much as possible and share my way of handling my projects in my basement.
Lots of hate here, but I like the idea of the threaded insert. I need to do this soon on my Sieg SC6, but I think I’ll either machine matching flats into the insert/receiver hole, or I’ll key or pin it. The alternative to your insert idea is to make a one piece shouldered stud from scratch which I’ve seen done but that is a massive amount of work.
I was afraid the casting might break if i try to press it in. With glue you don't put any stress into the material. It is easy to remove if needed with just a heatgun.
@@basementprojects4712 Hi, thanks for your reply, that’s what you said in your video. What I wanted to know is, why even use glue, why not simply leave it loose fit, why glue it? Thanks.
@@basementprojects4712 Thanks for your reply. Yeah, I was wondering if that was the case. You had a mill there why didn’t you just machine it oval? The bottom of the slide would’ve stopped the nut falling out and going anywhere and if it were oval it couldn’t rotate, and it would make it a hang of a sight easier to remove later on, should the need ever arise, instead of filing all those groves in it and risking a fracture of some sort, and having to deal with all that messy glue? Just wondering?
@@strahinjaboskovic305 The parts are rather small so shipping isn't that expensive. Can you send me your emailadress or another method of contacting you? Facebook, Whatsapp, what ever you prefer.
Hey ! Thanks for this very informative video, I know now everything what to expect on my next purchase on Holzmann Bandsaw, nice machine set up in your work shop is your lathe a Holzmann as well ? Cheers from Geneva Switzerland
Danke. Die PM 3700 hat einen ganz anderen Oberschlitten. Außerdem ist die Befestigung komplett anders. Da wird leider garnichts passen wenn du mein Design übernimmst.
Super video. Weshalb hast du dich nicht für "normalen" (Formen-)Baustahl entschieden? Wie Rost-resistent ist Metallguss eigentlich? Wie ist die Materialnummer/genaue Bestell-Bezeichnung von so Guss? Habe mir für meinen Riserblock ST52/S355J2 besorgt…hoffe das kommt gut?!
Hallo. Danke für das Kompliment. Ich musste das Material eh kaufen und Grauguss ist halt deutlich schwingungsärmer als Baustahl. Deshalb wird es ja auch für Maschinengehäuse verwendet. Rein von der Festigkeit her wäre die Stahllegierung egal. Grauguss ist auch deutlich rostträger als Baustahl. Ich habe in meinem Keller eine recht hohe Luftfeuchtigkeit und Baustahl fängt an zu rosten wenn ich ihn nicht schütze. Der Grauguss ist immer noch einwandfrei. Grauguss wirst du unter der Bezeichnung GG25 oder GGL25 finden. Die Bearbeitung ist auch viel einfacher als bei Baustahl aber bitte arbeite mir Atemmaske und ggf. Absaugung. Grauguss erzeugt einen feinen Staub.
I have a Bernardo Hobby 500 lathe and bought OXA size QCTP. Top slide is exactly like your lathe have. Needs some mods to fit the QCTP for both lathes..
@@strydyrhellzrydyr1345 No the primer on a fired shell is dented in from the firing pin, it doesn't cushion the firing pin. Thats the idea of this it cushions the firing pin during practice firing.
@@williamfoster4268 Shotgun Snap Caps are spring loaded and do not wear down. Only rimfire snap caps wear down BTW. If your extractors are chewing up the rims, you have something wrong with your fire arm setups then. I have snap caps that are 40+ years old that work perfectly fine and are used multiple times a year ( a half dozen times per each use)
@@Tom-yc8jv Is that boomer speak? Modern snap cap's are made out of aluminum or chinesium, the rim of the cartridge is going to be worn down and chewed up eventually. You can't avoid it, they are consumable. But hey, I guess all five of my shotguns are garbage because the extractor does what it's supposed to do.
Very nice work! Is that a dummy cartridge to "dry fire" with? If so, "snap caps" are widely available in the US market. They are not adjustable, to my knowledge.
You'd be correct on them not being adjustable. But that's because they really don't need to be, all it's there for is to give the firing pin something to hit as opposed to the firing pin slamming into the bolt and fracturing. The part I would like as a shooter is the replaceability of parts, I burn out a snap cap every 40 some odd uses in my rifles and it's bit annoying to keep buying more. Ps. sorry for the essay but it kind of fit here.
Buffer cartridge was the translation google told me. Maybe they are known under different names in the US. Dummy cartridge or snap caps sounds about right too. They are only adjustable because of the design. This wasn't planed it just happened.
A little tip… Wherever possible, try and use your top slide/ compound slide so it is sat on top of the cross slide not over hanging. It should drastically improve rigidity
@@basementprojects4712 You're very welcome. Let me know if you want a free premium forum membership, and you can post your videos on the forum whenever you want. We have lots of YTers on board.
Just watched you video where you made belt sander rollers. Now, I am a subscriber. I would like to see more videos about your shop made tooling and learn more about your techniques. In my business, my aim is to make affordable blacksmith tools that are more than just adequate. I make them with both the hobbyist and the professional in mind. I believe you have something similar in my, and you have excellent presentation skills. Thanks again, Jerry
@@basementprojects4712 Hello, I am a tired 76 year old guy who wants to stay busy, to a point. To start with, I was born at a very young age. I sell blacksmith tools and some custom machine work on Ebay and Etsy. I would like to back off of that and let my 2 sons take it over. In the meantime, I want to make some projects that I have been "meaning to do" for quite some time. Your methods and techniques inspired me to give up the business to my sons. Thank you for your videos! Jerry
Build videos, especially of shop projects or just useful things are always interesting. Videos of arts and crafts or steam engines are really boring. Viewers are more inspired by seeing things built which has utility. 3D printing can be interesting, but only when incorporated as part of casting, machining, etc . On its own, it is not very interesting to watch even if the end product is useful.
Thanks for the comment. Shop projects and tools are the main topic and i'm not planing to change that. I will show work for my customers but only when it fits the main topic of the channel. Like machining parts on the lathe. I'm planing a video about 3D printing for the work in a metall workshop. Like printing tools, templates and other usefull things to help with my metall work.
I've been doing this for over 50 years, with 50/50 acid core solder and an American Beauty 175 watt angle iron with a round point. It works especially well when working on thin sheetmetal that will warp from welding !! A company called Steck that makes "pull rods", for autobody work for pulling dents out by hand. Example -- clean to bare metal. 1. Drill 1/8" holes along the crease. 2. Use "pull rod hooks" to pull the dent level with the surface. 3. Use larger drill bit to chanfer or. Bevel the holes. Don't make the holes larger or the solder WON'T bridge the gap ! 4. Use 50/50 acid core solder. 5. And at least 175 watt. Soldering iron or larger. DONE !! Clean area with baking soda and water then lacquer thinner, then sand, Bondo or primer.
Thanks for the comment. I prefer to use acid free solder. If any acid remains the area will rust again. Baking soda is a good way to get rid of any remaining acid if you use it. I think in Germany acid free solder is the standart now. Not only because of the rust issue but because of health and enviroment issues. That's why no lead or other toxic metals are allowed in any solder. I have never seen someone pull out dents that way. I used a spot welder. This machine will weld a small metal strip or hook to the sheet metal. A slide hammer is used to form the sheet metal back. The strip is removed and you grind away the small spot where the weld was. This is faster and you don't need to create and close holes in the sheet metal.
Thanks. The rollers are working great. No sign of wear yet. I ordered mild steel but this is could be 4140 pre-hard. Or anything else. It was harder to machine than normal stainless.
That's why i said it in the video. A normal soldering iron is way too weak. Mine has about 500W. I have a similar one with 250W and it's still too weak to get a proper result. A butan torch would do the job but it's harder to control and maybe overheat the area if you are not careful.
To improve on this I'd make a L shaped calibration bar that sits on the cross slide so that the bottom surface of the inverted L is set to height. The tool can be moved up until the insert tip touches the calibration bar.
