I have a 1963 pontiac catalina booster the break fluid went from the master cylinder into the booster I'm thinking of taking it apart thanks for the video
It was a real fighting for exlent useful target It seems an experience job of a real knowledge Thank you very much it was very helpful.. hope utube consider the value of ur efforts.. Much much appreciated dear , if we could see ur 2nd part of this valuable video.. thanks a lot
I recommend you don’t use silicone at all. Use a urethane based sealant like “right stuff” black if you don’t want it to leak. Silicone is for girls toys. 😅
i have a 1967 Ford Fairlane. Does anybody know where i can buy a rebuild kit for a reasonable price. I see them for $250 dollars. Which made me consider buying an aftermarket power booster conversion kit. Which came with, new booster, new master cylinder and hardware for 250 or less. Than you for a great down to earth video.
I swapped out a diaphragm from (2) Hitachi boosters. Everything matched, except for the 4 studs that went thru the firewall on my '73 Mazda. Now that i know how to open them up and get to the inners, I'm going over to POWER BRAKE EXCHANGE(santa fe springs, calif) to see if I'm able to purchase the diaphragm. Might want to check with them.
You don’t know what you’re talking about. Don’t ever use the drill and grinder on these. These were always meant to be rebuilt. That’s why there are kits for these.
Hello how are you. My 1976 firebird had a leak coming out where the torsion bar goes into the stub shaft. There is not much information on Google about the torsion bar. I pressed out the pin on the input shaft that holds the torsion bar and removed it and looked inside the input stub shaft and it has a groove where it looks like an o ring can fit. I found an o ring that fits snug inside and reassemble it and no more leaks. There is no seal kit for the torsion bar maybe it uses some kind of adhesive sealant because there was no o ring inside???
Disassembly is all wrong. The case splits by a slight compression and twisting the case halves to line up notches to release. Those crimps are what holds the case together. This is butchery really.
Question... I have a box that has grooves inside the input shaft bore where the 3 Teflon o-rings sit. Is the box destroyed? Is this a normal condition? Can it be fixed? I'd love to send you images of the problem
Great video! I'm thinking it would take a lot of practice before i could just take one of theses apart and not worry about where I scatter the parts on my work area!! Your good!
You can preinstall seal into housing and slide it into crankshaft, or you can install housing with gasket and silicone, but just snug the bolts without fully tightening them. Same with oil pan bolts. Grab your seal with the plastic guide and slide it onto crankshaft by hand. Grab the installation ring that comes with the seal and set it in place over the seal. Now grab the flexplate retainer ring and set it over the tool, run each flywheel bolt and tighten then carefully in a star pattern until the ring pushes the seal tool evenly to proper depth. Remove all flywheel bolts and ring and you got your seal installed and aligned. Now tighten all the housing 8mms and the oil pan 10mms. Check your flywheel for cracks before installing it back on the crank.
I'm happy to find this video...I have this job ahead of me. However, finishing the rebuild of yhr unit would have been a plus. So a little disappointed with that. So I went to see if there was a part 2. And no. What also struck me ad unusual is your subscriber count vs your amount of videos. Disproportionate in a traditional sense but it's an indicator none the less you should be commended on. Could you dig thru the archives and put together a part 2? And do you have a recommended vendor/mfgr for a mid 60s Bendix booster rebuilt kit? Thanks.
I'm looking for a rear main oil seal for a Ford super duty truck engine. It's a 401 cu in from the 401, 477, 534 engine family, which was produced from 1959 to 1981, and used in larger Ford trucks (800 & 850 series) as well as certain Chris-Craft marine applications. Original seal is the rope type and I'm wondering if anyone knows of a newer neoprene type seal that would fit. Many older engines are being fitted with newer seals.
Good video but I kept saying I know that voice. And it hit me, next video you have to say, Pig Pen back off on them hogs the smell is getting intense up here. You sound like C.W. McCall who sang Convoy!
I would like your metal alignment tool...actually both tools....How can I get in touch with you to get one....I do these enough It would make things much easier
Very detailed ... Appreciate you! My booster is "only" leaking break fluid (and apparently vacuum).. Any quick tips to seal it without opening up booster?
Mine would slowly build pressure and slowly apply the brakes by itself without pressing the pedal and I would have to get out and unplug the vacuum line to the booster for the brakes to release.
