Wow. I wish you were my neighbor. The rod on my booster locked into the rod of my master cylinder and wouldn’t retract, so that my brakes locked. We unbolted the MC slightly, and re-bolted it using washers to make a bit of a gap. I understand about measuring the MC ‘rod’ to the booster rod, but I don’t understand why my booster rod would not retract when I took my foot of the brake pedal. Just like the booster in this video, mine is no longer manufactured. I wonder, though, if there would be anything in the booster that would stop the rod from moving back, after I released the brake pedal.....I’d like to know that before I actually go through the adventure of trying to rebuild the booster....lol
It was a real fighting for exlent useful target It seems an experience job of a real knowledge Thank you very much it was very helpful.. hope utube consider the value of ur efforts.. Much much appreciated dear , if we could see ur 2nd part of this valuable video.. thanks a lot
They should rebuild the factories that made the old car favorites like the 57 Chevy and make them exactly like the originals but with better materials. They would sell out.
Great video! I'm thinking it would take a lot of practice before i could just take one of theses apart and not worry about where I scatter the parts on my work area!! Your good!
I have a 1963 pontiac catalina booster the break fluid went from the master cylinder into the booster I'm thinking of taking it apart thanks for the video
Good Video Man.. just a quick question, should I change my breakbooster or just the master cylinder on my car, because when I pop the breaks from the inside, the car just moving and wont stop unless I use the emergency brakes.. so I removed the pads to see if they worn out, but they still fresh new..
Interesting video, Just curious: Can I put the ball head of the push-rod into a drill to use the drill for rotation while gently graduating from a 220 to 1500 fine sandpaper to remove rust?
No, the rod ends up with a smaller diameter there. You need to restore the original diameter, but material has been lost to rust and cleanup. That's why he suggests turning the rod down on a lathe and adding a sleeve. That's a real project only justifiable as a last resort, if you can't obtain the parts.
Thanks for making this video! I have a NOS brake booster that is identical to my bad one except for the peddle rod. Can I pull the peddle rod and replace it with my old one without taking the new apart?
Very detailed ... Appreciate you! My booster is "only" leaking break fluid (and apparently vacuum).. Any quick tips to seal it without opening up booster?
I am doing a motor swap on my car and the intake manifold of the new engine is touching the brake booster and won't allow the engine to clear perfectly. Is it safe to just punch the brake booster in a little bit on one side?
I'm happy to find this video...I have this job ahead of me. However, finishing the rebuild of yhr unit would have been a plus. So a little disappointed with that. So I went to see if there was a part 2. And no. What also struck me ad unusual is your subscriber count vs your amount of videos. Disproportionate in a traditional sense but it's an indicator none the less you should be commended on. Could you dig thru the archives and put together a part 2? And do you have a recommended vendor/mfgr for a mid 60s Bendix booster rebuilt kit? Thanks.
Mine would slowly build pressure and slowly apply the brakes by itself without pressing the pedal and I would have to get out and unplug the vacuum line to the booster for the brakes to release.
...as my buddies from GE Computer Services used to say, this is where the "F.M." happens... Everytime I heard the old military guys say that, I was baffled, until one of them explained it to me. It stands for "F%#King Magic" ... lol . You need to get someone to 3D print the Bakelite parts, that way, you have an Identical replacement for the next unit, that you rebuild. . For the "Tabs"? can't you just cut a slit, on the sections where's there is good material on the housing, and bend the new metal inward to make a new tab? using new metal, that hasn't been stretched is probably a better alternative. My $.02 ....lol . thanks, this was a very informative video, I had no idea how these units worked. I thought it was just a rubber diaphragm inside the housing.
I have a problem with my brake system for my Mitsubishi io ,it's leaking air between the brake master cylinder where it bolts to the booster ,can someone tell what is the problem
what is the symptom if at times a sudden step, the car speeds up a second and the feeling of the pedal is as if it was to loose brake only after that second the brake catches on?
Could be a sticky master brake cylinder or piston in the brakes, or even duff brake booster. Best bet brake hard on a straight line (quiet road) see if car pulls one way, means sticky piston on side that does not pull towards, or if not likely master cylinder or brake booster needs renewed/rebuilt.
If the booster action is affecting the engine rpm, that's due the booster being leaky and affecting the intake manifold pressure as a side effect of the brakes operating. You need to fix the leaky booster first, and then determine if you have other problems elsewhere in the brake system. If the brakes engage illogically, it can be due to the booster push rod not being adjusted to meet the master cylinder properly, so be sure to adjust that.
i have a 1967 Ford Fairlane. Does anybody know where i can buy a rebuild kit for a reasonable price. I see them for $250 dollars. Which made me consider buying an aftermarket power booster conversion kit. Which came with, new booster, new master cylinder and hardware for 250 or less. Than you for a great down to earth video.
I swapped out a diaphragm from (2) Hitachi boosters. Everything matched, except for the 4 studs that went thru the firewall on my '73 Mazda. Now that i know how to open them up and get to the inners, I'm going over to POWER BRAKE EXCHANGE(santa fe springs, calif) to see if I'm able to purchase the diaphragm. Might want to check with them.
Good video but I kept saying I know that voice. And it hit me, next video you have to say, Pig Pen back off on them hogs the smell is getting intense up here. You sound like C.W. McCall who sang Convoy!
You don’t know what you’re talking about. Don’t ever use the drill and grinder on these. These were always meant to be rebuilt. That’s why there are kits for these.
Disassembly is all wrong. The case splits by a slight compression and twisting the case halves to line up notches to release. Those crimps are what holds the case together. This is butchery really.
