Welcome to the Beasts of Burden podcast. I am your host Jesse Knox. Beasts of Burden is a place where we discuss how to be the best you can be as a hunter, land owner, and over all conservationist to enhance your life. The aim is personal responsibility and ownership as a conservationist. The aim leads you to a path of enlightenment from our guests. Be prepared for on this hunt to find purpose and meaning in conservation that the dark places need be explored. Weather the dark recess of the soul or the darkness of the woods. Join us on this hunt. Together the forgotten past will be our future.
As a contractor that does this for a living, I've had too many people that ended up calling me after the same experience you had. I know it sounds expensive to hire a professional, but I know exactly what the real cost to operate the machine is and we have the experience to get you the best results possible in the shortest time frame. In most situations, I can do in one day what a home owner can do in a week, even if they're comfortable operating a skid steer doing dirt work. It can be very dangerous, and there are a lot of tricks that you only learn after thousands of hours doing it. Glad nothing worse happened and you're safe!
Exactly, I have good cost share to do it I should have just waited for him to come. I would like to learn how to run one for the hell of it, but I think a smaller stand or smaller brush to mulch would be a better way to learn instead of big cedar trees!
It can during the growing season. In the fall, going by soil temperature, forbs will be dormant so then the plataue and round up will kill the cool season grasses.
John deere isn't a good machine for mulching . It's a good chance your insurance company wouldn't cover the machine if it doesn't have a forestry package . You wouldn't find out until something bad happened like catching on fire .
I should have known better and asked more questions. It is weird they would have a skid without the plexiglass used for mulching? I tried running it on the ground and even then an occasional stick would kick out. Even just being in the brush and a stick hitting the windshield is just too many chances that you can shatter a windshield.
I live in Florida and am a contractor and I have never heard of a rental company renting drum style multchers. You’re very fortunate that you can rent one in your area. Must of been expensive. I imagine like at least $4500 a week or better?
@hhazelhoff1363 actually it was around $3200 for a week. I found another company that is all Cat and they use only cat mulchers and they're $2500 a week. Their skids are all forestry grade. For the cost share I was getting I figured the price wasn't bad but it didn't even work out due to the improper set up. Lesson learned!!
@@BeastsofBurdenPodcast that’s awesome. I pay $200 a hour for machine and operator. So that’s a hell of a deal for a week. And it’s so much fun operating those machines. I’ll call around again, but I’m pretty sure they don’t rent them here. Are you renting from like a national rental, or just a local dealership
My Dad's place has some osage orange that we've been felling and applying herbicide to the stumps. They area a bear to fell sometimes as they often are tangled with other trees so I'm interested in the hack and squirt method with those. Whats your ratio for imazapyr when hacking and squirting osage orange?
Thanks for watching! So, I've just started hack n squirting osage orange. Always read the label of the Imazapyr product you're using. Across the board, 20% of imaz is what you should need to kill most trees and osage. I'm using Alligaire Imazapyr and the label states you can use 100% concentrate or up to 75% water. Which if I'm reading that correctly, it means you can use a quart of imazapyr with 3 quarts of water. Which if you do the math 20% of Imaz in a gallon is 25.6 oz so you're less than 8 oz away from the full amount. 20% is what the foresters I work with use and I've started using that rate so we'll see on mortality rate. You can go with the label rate, but be mindful where you're at. If it's bottomland I would stick with the 20% rate. Again read your label! Thank you for reaching out and take care!
TSI is an acronym for Timber Stand Improvement. Thanks for pointing out that some folks may not know what that acronym stands for. I'm so used to saying it I forget. Timber Stand Improvement is an umbrella term for management to enhance a timber. In this video, I'm describing what crop tree too look for to release in this case I am preforming Crop Tree Release. A technique under Timber Stand Improvement. I think I explained it in the video, but the goal of the Crop Tree Release or CTR is to release the canopy of your crop tree to encourage growth and hard mass production. Biggest benefit is encouraging sunlight to hit the ground to encourage more early succesional plant communities and oak regeneration. There are other forms of Timber Stand Improvement such as under story removal, prescribed fire, timber harvest can also be a form of timber stand improvement. Hope that helps and I'll keep that in mind in the future to explain these acronyms. Thank you for asking!
